Nice job, Bob. I am in the process of dismantling my workshop at the moment for a move to our new home. Some new shelves using your plans will come in handy when setting up the new shop. I must agree with you as my table saw doesn't get much use either since I bought a track saw. Quite like the homemade router table you have too. Cheers
Ideas. 1. Bolt 1" plywood base on top of support base - prevents scraping to trans. 2. Adjustable width for the angle rails to handle different size trans. 3. Tilt crews to align support on uneven ground. Makes refitting a lot easier.
Hey man sorry for another question I’m leaking oil from my oil cooler on this bike it’s located to the right of the oil filter. How do I know if the oil cooler is working correctly ? My bike got up to 220 it’s summer so that might be why but I wanna make shr my oil cooler works and it’s not just gaskets that are causing the leak .
The oil cooler will have two hoses running to the motor. On the motor there should be "in" or "inlet" embossed over or under where one of the lines goes into the motor. Loosen the hose at the motor so that the connection leaks, but is still in place - might pay to put a tray under the bike to catch the oil - start the bike and the oil should pump out of the joint - that will tell you if the oil is flowing through the cooler, then provided the fins of the cooler are not blocked it should be doing its job. Hope that helps.
I am away from the workshop at the moment, but I thing it is 42mm or 1 and 5/8 inches. But I can not be sure of that, but if you hold ruller against the bottom chrome leg and eye-ball both sides, that will give you the size. Hope that helps.
Hi thanks for the vid, very helpful, waiting for aftermarket brushes to arrive and this is helping me prep the motor in the mean time. I don't have any non conductive lube for that slot on the brush side, it's quite pricey and will have no use for it once this job is done. The workshop manual for my bike doesn't mention the use of lube there and the manual is pretty thorough when it comes to those specifics, what do you suggest I do? Thanks again.
Good question, I do not think you need to put any lube there, but if you want to, you could use ordinary high temperature wheel bearing grease. The conductive greases are ones like copper or zinc grease, the basic lube greases are generally non-conductive. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the video , i get the changing of the gears but can you tell me what the Z is on the bottom of the gear chart on the lathe , as I am cutting a 14 tpi thread , thanks Darryl
Z is the number of teeth on the gear you fit to the bottom of the train, that is the input to the quick change gear box. For 14 tpi the plate on mine shows Z to be a 24 tooth gear. I hope that makes sense.
I removed my starter motor cleaned it put it back on and now when i try starting the bike i hear the motor running but bike not tumbling should i just change the whole motor? Because before it was tumbling but the motor sounded loud and damaged and couldn't start the bike.
It sounds to me that you have not got the starter's gear properly engaging the starting gear train. That can be because the gear it engages has slipped out of alignment or the gear on the starter is not properly lined up. My preference would be to pull the alternator cover off and see what the gears have done, but you could try pulling the starter motor out and reinserting it first, Hope that helps.
Ive got this starter in my Suzuki gs550 so this vid helped .my problem was the starter wouldnt crank upon taking it apart 1magnet had broke apart and deglued.i glued it back 3/4 of it cleaned it & bobs ure uncle it works good on yer mate🥳🥳🥳🇬🇧
Ordered a rebuild kit from Wemoto and will be following this vid to refurbish the starter on my GS550. Just one point, use glass paper not emery on the commutator to clean it. The bits of emery can embed in the copper and make the brushes wear faster. You can finish it with a bit of Brasso for a super fine finish if you are a bit OCD like me 🙂
Brilliant video, for my GS550 various other sources said carbs off, camchain tensioner off, pleased to see my weekend task will be easier than that. Bit of flux on the tab may make the solder flow under the joint a bit better.
Great video style. I really like the talking throughout with detailed instructions. This is very much like my 04 Toyota Kluger, but it is under a carpet with the backseat unbolted, so this is surprisingly easy.
Hi Bob, do you think it necessary to warm up the machine before changing the oils and if so how long would you run the machine to do so? I tend to do that when changing the oil in a car. I do that for 2 reasons - the oil runs out quicker when warm & I imagine it stirs up any contaminants meaning more crap is likely to flush out when draining the oil. Or am I just over thinking things? This is a great video. I have an AL960B. The manual is bordering on useless when it comes to figuring this stuff out.
People I have met over the years who have bought the 960, have been very happy with them, they are a good unit. No, I do not bother warming it up in the machines here. They are gear boxes really, and do not have the all the little oil passages that engines have. You never get all the oil out any how, so you are always diluting your old oil with new oil. So, for me, I wait till the oil drain is down to drop by drop and then put the plug back in and refill. I hope that helps, thanks for watching the video.
Thanks for the video, Bob. Your timing was perfect! I have the same lathe but haven't cut threads before and, of course, the owner's manual tells me nothing useful. I needed to learn how to cut threads but, almost as importantly, I needed to see it done with a lathe as close to mine as possible. And along came you 😁. As an aside, the spacer on the bottom gear that you had to remake.....mine has tons of room so I'm guessing enough people had complained to H&F that they got it sorted. I'll be looking fwd to anymore videos that you do on this lathe.
Btw Bob. Mine has an issue with the direction of feed lever. It's fine when you swing the lever to the right but when you swing it to the left, it overshoots and the gears don't properly engage. When I brought this up with H&F, they said "They're all like that. Nothing we can do. Live with it." Very typical H&F. Does yours do this?
Thankyou for watching the video and happy that it helps. Thread cutting is always fun. That video is just one of the many ways you can do it. I have another, which I have yet to edit, which features cutting a taper thread using a non-traditional approach. Might air in September, all going well.
Thanks for your review Bob. Any further thoughts after owning this unit for a year or so? Are you happy with the adjustments, does the lack of burn back adjustment matter? Basically asking are you sorry not to have purchased a higher end unit? Thanks in advance and for the content you produce. Rowan...
Rowan, more than happy with it, and I have had no issues, it is a great machine. When I did my trade, welders were no where near as sophisticated as they are today. As a consequence, I probably have actions that I do, but I am not aware of, that negates the need on my part for those helpful features like 'burnback adjustment'. This unit does the job I want it to do, which includes sheet metal to truck chassis, and at no time have I thought, I wish it could do something extra. Hope that helps you with your decision. Bob
Thanks for the video, I have the same lathe with the DRO as well (336D), The thing I can't work out is what number to engage the half nut when chasing threads. I've also got an HM51 milling machine too - absolutely awesome milling machine
There should be a plate on the front, with a section labeled indicator table (at the bottom section on mine). This is where you find the chasing dial number to use, depends on the TPI number. Hope that helps. PS: HM51 mill, I am so jealous 😁
Great video. I also have the same lathe that come with tool package < Only had it about 3 months still learning heaps. I check my gearing and nothing like yours i gottah be brave and swap it about. Also soon to have a milling machine the Hafco MH-48B been on order for couple weeks, Cheers
Yes, there should be a bag of gears come with the machine. I chose the AL336 primarily on bed length and swing over axis, especially with the removable bed section. A friend of mine, teased me about not getting a metric one, but I have not regreted getting the one I have. Regarding the bench mill, I have an earlier version of the 48B, a 45, I think. The important feature is the dovetailed vertical axis, which means you can easily return to zero if needed. Mine does not have the DRO, but I will probably retro fit one in time. They are good machines and really complement the lathe.
brilliant video thank you , just wondering if you know the air gap to oil in mm for a 2009 Suzuki hayabusa , most people are saying 110mm and some say 100mm but I'm sure the manual says 95mm , I rang a suspension specialist and he said it is 110mm air gap but I'm trying to get as much info as possible before doing the task , thanks
My reference says 98mm, but the air gap can be varied as part of adjusting the suspension to suit your body size and riding needs. A shorter air gap makes the suspension stiffer and a longer air gap makes it softer. Fork oil weight also affects the ride. Now, stiffer sounds good for performance, but not if the wheels are chattering, that is lifting off the ground over the bumps, softer would be better on rough roads. The suspension specialist recommendation of 110mm, might be better for everyday riding. Also are the fork springs still stock, sometimes aftermarket springs need a different oil volume, because the springs occuppy a different volume. I hope that helps, Bob.
@@whitedoggarage ah thank you great advice , yes all stock internals on forks and I ride two's up with the wife so we weigh about 290 lbs together and stock fork oil for the hayabusa is 5w and I've just bought the maxima 7w fork oil so I might go with 110mm air gap for a plusher ride and then if it's bottoming out with added preload I can always removing cap and add and equal amount to each fork leg to compensate , I guess that would be easier than having to much fork oil and not be able to take oil out as easy , maybe safer bet to go to 110m with a thicker oil ?
The bike owner got them off eBay, and I know nothing about their source I am sorry. I did have a quick look on eBay and I see this set as an example: www.ebay.com.au/itm/190649985905?epid=660481590&itmmeta=01J24Z2NP0B3Y923G1P8FW49Y4&hash=item2c639feb71:g:vdsAAOSwLjRhBbO2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAJZH4EbFxK8DasSkK0UUQe7KUid6%2BisCTHlYuTrVcnmMkQtt0mo3Am%2BsvFKZ5D%2BqrFz0nXK%2BPB3RNXcQdUNJY%2FWRB5tSrzqyRZ2f8Bkl3qn2qF7TA0lc%2B4LhkAIIvstG0%2B4mmb0FboGThA5es2jRagx2387%2BWEUev5cOYnwKaRLJVEbH9yyj5wDaMO9rSmI0dvbtjYCxBEMvd42IQQDp2miDoMFXLwUjm6koEve2SomYaESvQt%2F%2BwI3Ii3GW81Y7BqiLoRCDhkA9aSqKaYolITOwRkdheQwRa%2BM87eD%2BzGDnQDyH70jtBfUGJTob55BPGHj4TbnSbnq6V2vwPLDsFyQ%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5Dbip-RZA Hope that helps, Bob
Sounds like you got a bad one. Mine has been okay, my issues are really about the layout, I mean most centre lathes have the same sort of layout, but it is the little things they could do better. Always good to have another opinion though, so thankyou.
I just picked up an 09 GSXR 1000 and it's thermal switch was bypassed with a toggle switch . I'm afraid I'm going to forget to turn my fan on and cook my motor. This is something I need to fix immediately. Also I noticed when it's nice and cool out my engine temperature drops down into the 150s . I'm not a rocket scientist but I'm guessing the thermostat is either stuck open or missing. So far the hottest I've let it get is 218 before I turn the fan on
Agree, you need to investigate the cooling system. I think you are probably right about the missing or wide open thermostat, assuming of course that the fan is off when you are seeing the 150 degrees F. I would assume that the thermo switch has failed and the previous owner has by passed it with the toggle switch, the cheaper option I guess. You should fix that as well, you want to be watching the traffic and road condition when you ride along, not the temperature gauge.
Good question, it will not be your starter motor as it is just a DC motor powered directly (without a fuse) from the battery. If the fuse is popping in the circuit to the solenoid, then the problem will lie in a short to earth in the wiring system to it. Have a look at the wires between the starter button and the solenoid, is there any obvious breaks or melts in the insulation. There will be two wires to the solenoid, one is the power supply and the other is the earth. If you have a multimeter, set it on resistance, disconnect the two wires from the harness and check resistance from either wire to the negative terminal of the battery. It should be infinite, if it is low then the solenoid has shorted out and should be replaced. Hope that helps.
@@albertlee6423 That makes it hard. Really it becomes an exercise in tracing voltage leakage along the wiring system. However, I would be tempted to open up the starter button handlebar switch and look for a short there possibly to the handlebar.
My friend i do have suzuki katana 2002 i dont know if is the same problem, but when i press the ignition button doesnt make any noise doesnt start the engine, what could be?
Great question, and maybe I should cover more of this solution in another video. For you however, I would look at the following, probably in this order (1) Is your kill switch off? If it is on, Suzuki wiring results in the starter circuit being dead, so no starter noise. (2) Is your battery okay? A near dead battery will usually power the lights, but when the starter button is pushed, the lights go out and no starter noise. (3) Check the fuses, I am not sure what the fuse for the starter circuit is called, maybe labelled ignition or maybe main - perhaps just check them all. One other thing it can be, is the starter solenoid itself. A broken coil or bad conectors can mean the solenoid is not activated when you push the starter button and no starter noise. I would usually look at it using a multimeter measuring resistance accross the coil and whether the coil is getting power, but if you do not have a meter, it is still probably worth tracing the thin wires back from the starter solenoid to their connectors, discconecting them, cleaning the connectors and putting it back together, Connectors can corrode and build up resistance after years of use. I hope this all helps, and thanks again for asking the question, as it may be of help to others.
Is it safe to assume that if the fan does not turn when the connector is bypassed using a copper wire that the fan needs to be replaced? Thanks great video.
Good question, assuming you have electrical power in that wire, if the fan does not run, it needs to be replaced. But be careful to check that the lead into the fan is intact as well.
Good question, I did that one a long time ago, but I think I isolated it to a starter motor problem, and then took it back to the workshop to do a bench job on it. In my experience, it is usually the brushes as it is here, but I decided to make the video and show the whole starter motor checking process. If you want more on diagnosing a starting problem, I have another video you should watch: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hlClh8n1e-4.html , hope that helps.
Brilliant video just doing mine now, but some idiot has replaced teh starter motor cover bolts with Allen screws and there is no way I can get enough purchase on innermost screw which means airbag and carbs out. Why on earth do people do this?
Once you assambly the starter motor, does the pinion have to move free? I see you can turn it by hand. I have taken apart the starter motor from my XJ 750 Yamaha and once I have put all back together, I can not turn the pinion by hand. I checked with a battery before reinstalling like you have done and it turns and moves fine. I don't know if it has to turn or not by hand. I did not check that before taken it apart. Could you tell me if there is sonething wrong and why does it turn conected to a battery but not by hand? Many thanks
Excellent question, the started constains a series of permanent magnets and this can make the armature quite hard to turn. You should be able to turn it by hand, but it should resist your turning. However it should not be impossible to turn. If it turns quite quickly with the battery test, it is probably okay. Hope that helps.
@@whitedoggarage The problem was that I took everything apart and checked piece by piece , after cleaning and checking brushes and the rest of pieces I started to reinstall all the parts again following the manual step by step and then is when I realised that one washer was missing.... so I decided to to put the missing washer. This washer was the problem, once I took it of the pinion started to turn by hand easily. I guess one of the previus owners took that washer out because of the same problem. Now that I took the washer out the pinion turns fine by hand and turns also fine conected to a battery. Thanks for your answer. Greetings from Spain dude!
@@bestione761 The pictures of those washers in the manual catch a lot of people out. They are actually thrust washers and how many go there depends on the armature when it is made. They are there to take up subtle differences in manufacture I think. There can be one or two, whatever number they came from the factory with is the number the starter should have, so you did the right thing with one washer. Good pickup on your part and something for other viewers to note. Greetings from Australia too, Bob.
Oh dear, it sounds like you are getting oil in the coolant. You will need to investigate the cause, the video will help here. Oil in the coolant without bubbles in the system, indicates to me you may have split accross from the oil channel to a water channel in the headgasket, or a gasket failure on the coolant pump. Let me know how you go?
@@whitedoggarage haven’t got the time to start pulling it apart at the moment unfortunately. it’s going into my local garage this week hopefully it’s nothing serious I’ll keep ya posted on it.
