SP Wood Art creates handmade, high quality crafts and tools in wood and other fine media that are one-of-a-kind, unique, and beautiful. Our pieces are made with the finest quality wood from around the globe. Each piece is meticulously designed to look and feel like a piece of art, yet each item is functional. We hope that by sharing our knowledge/passion for woodworking and art, we will teach, entertain, and inspire.
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I am considering trying this with Acetate as it is very inexpensive and perhaps reusable if removed carefully. I am new to this so curious if you've given acetate a try? (question can go out to anyone in comments) I suspect I'll need thicker acetate because resin gives of heat as it cures but don't really know how that stuff reacts to resin heat. Thanks for sharing your experiences :)
The plate was fairly thick and the hard maple wood is great for ink. The fibers on the maple contain the ink well. Some other woods will bleed more than others. I usually use a tight grained wood when using ink for that very reason. Thanks for watching!
i have never found a roughing gouge that will square a 4 corner square without it not bouncing and tearing the wood out of it,,not cutting it reguardless of how much you sharpening it,,,,nornmally i use a bowl gouge and start on the end and come across with it,,,so much easier,,,
Hi, I’ve tried that method as well. It’s great for travel since you only need 1 or 2 tools to bring. You can also rough out a blank with a skew. Always more than one way. I find the. Roughing gouge makes quick work of roughing a spindle round. I have an M42 steel roughing gouge that I use all the time. They have their place. Thanks for watching and commenting. I plan on having a video in this series for each lathe tool.
It helps to keep your mandrel close to the headstock chuck jaws or collet chuck to eliminate run out (wobble), it is much more rigid which helps keep the diamond card flatter against the cutter. The keyless chuck shown is an Albrecht chuck, not a Jacobs, which uses a key to tighten the chuck jaws. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 👍😁🇦🇺🦘
So, I’ve finally got a chuck stuck. Didn’t know it was a thing. But it’s very much a thing. Can’t get it off… and I’m said. It’s halting production. Will try soaking it first. My question is does this damage how the front and back line up? Will they still be on center? Or will I have to figure out how to make the head stock and tail stock align again ? Thanks.
It’s only a matter of time for a Chuck or face plate to get stuck. The lathe should be fine and inline as long as extreme measures were not taken. It also depends on the lathe. Most lathes can be re-aligned. Hope you can get the chuck off. Cheers!
Amazing artistry in making my mallet!! I’ve been using it nearly every day to help me reset my mood & intention-even if I’m not taking time for meditation. Your mallet feels smooth, balanced and has been coaxing my normally reluctant bowl to sing and chime! Thank you so much❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you so much for your kind words! I’m so glad you like the singing bowl mallet and that it actually works as expected. lol I had to try the mallet out numerous times to finally make it sing; learning curve. Thanks again and for watching! Cheers! -Speros
The fine dust from sanding on the lathe has been a big problem. I have tried many different set ups and failed every time. So finally after 6 years of frustration I made one of your set ups. I used electrical conduit and made the adjustable slide from maple. THe monitor attached to the big gulps....welll bye bye dust! I am so pleased. Thanks so much for sharing this with us!
(1) For small bowls, etc., a much smaller jam chuck works well and you can turn it at a higher RPM. (2) You are getting the excessive dust because you are using a carbide scraper to cut the MDF. For the least dust, use traditional cutting tools, turn it at low RPM, and take a heavy cut. (3) Instead of using a faceplate, at least for smaller jam chucks, you can use a tap from Beall Tool Co. to cut a thread in the jam chuck so it threads directly onto the headstock spindle. However, you will need to glue a "hub" onto the center of the disk to provide extra thickness. (4) Jam chucks up to 8 or 10 inches in diameter can be made with a tenon that can be gripped by a scroll chuck. Glue and screw a small disk of hardwood (not MDF or plywood, which may delaminate) onto the larger disk and cut the tenon on that. These suggestions are just to suggest options and are not intended to take away from what you did. Your video is well presented. -Doc Green, author of Fixtures and Chucks for Woodturners
Hello Mr Green, I would first like to thank you for your suggestions and tips. You have some great tips here for me and my subscribers and I have used some of your suggestions before. I do own a ball tool and often make the threaded head attachments for smaller pieces with a little CA to strengthen the threads. I mostly use this large jam chuck for making large 16” clocks. Second, I have owned a copy of your fixtures book for years and love it. If you would ever like me to feature your book, I would be happy too. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend. Cheers!
I have been using closed cell foam instead of paper to apply CA glue to my pens. The glue goes on smoother and you don’t use anywhere as much glue. Even after a couple of uses you can use them many times. Love your techniques.
Hi. I'm struggling with the same stuff as you, of course. The thing is, that it seems that the very tape you use is the key.... not any of the other materials... and I'm not sure I can find that here in Denmark.
@@spwoodart Thanks for your answer mate. I think I may be able to find something similar here in Denmark ;-) It's important to note, that I am primarily focusing on making smaller (and always round) coffee tables.... a bit larger than the mold you've made. I am, of course, watching your video because I too want to make a mold that can be reused. It is _way_ too time consuming to have to make, basically, the same mold over and over again. It's a hassle though... many, many wood working videos, and especially epoxy related videos, rely on specific kinds of tape that likely exist in Denmark but have completely different names.... and are necessary to do the job. I've tried a few different ones that absolutely did _not_ do the job, so I'm kind'a.... arrrgh, LOL ;-) It looks so easy on video but when the whole thing sticks and you have to use chisels to pry the thing off. I've bought me a release agent too, like you use in the video. I'm really hoping to find some kind of e.g. silicone bendable material and make a mold where I can somehow 'release' the sides/edge and then pry it off the bottom afterwards... obviously without destroying the edges of the mold. Thanks again for answering 🙂
@@timholstpetersen79 I know what you mean, I didn’t want to make molds over and over. You can make a mold like the one I have (bigger) and use 100% silicone chalk. You could Smear It all over the edges and bottom. I have not tried it, but it may work. Thanks for watching my videos, I appreciate it. Cheers!
@@spwoodart Hey, of course.... and I'm sorry I forgot to subscribe and like... it's been remedied as I'm writing this ;-) Again; thanks for answering. I will try a similar approach as yours but need to figure out a way to make it easily repeatable. Not in an industrial sense but still something that makes it easy to produce multiple tables of the same dimensions with a single mold. I'm stoked about this, because it would allow me to eliminate _one_ of the constraints of making these tables. The thing is that I actually _love_ making the molds.... it's part of the process... but I have too many ideas on what to put _into_ the molds, and am too impatient to use the time on the molds ;-)
One of the other constraints, of course, is the cost of the epoxy itself... so for starters like me (and you, at some point), it can be an expensive learning. On my last project I used 6 kg of epoxy... and it turned out 'okay' (my wife is happy ;-) ), but I had to ditch the mold and do it all over again. I want to feel free of the mold thing and to experiment with designs. For now, round coffee tables but....
