I'm here to help you with your tiny house and motorhome journey. Whether you are simply curious or unsure of how to get started down the path to a simpler lifestyle, I offer content to help answer some of the most common questions. As an author, and tiny house builder I relied heavily on RU-vid when I first started teaching myself the skills required to build small houses on wheels. Now it's my turn to give back and post some videos of my own. I welcome you to subscribe, share, like, and comment (constructive ones) and please don't hesitate to reach out if I can help you in some way to achieve what you are looking to do.
Cost of Electric toilet vs. water toilet on a monthly basis, Electric bill vs. Water bill. I am interested to know the difference between traditional vs. electric. Is there any cost savings either way?
From other videos I've seen where they take such turbines apart they have had both rectifiers and voltage regulation in them. All the turbines connected to the water in series might do the trick to provide enough current for the battery to accept it. Assuming the flow and pressure is enough for the turbines to reach the required voltage. I don't think the pressure is reduced much by each turbine, the pressure required is probably mostly because that is what required to get the velocity of the water. I still wouldn't expect a lot of power though, it's unlikely to be enough to cover a DC to AC converter on standby with that trickle, so using it to recharge a power station probably requires a power station where that converter can be shut off, which I hope is the how they are designed. Electrically they should remain in parallell, if they're regulated to 12 V, and the power station accepts 12 V, the main issue should be to achieve the required current. LED lights can be very deceiving, they tend to become more efficient the less power they get, so they can make very little power seem like a disproportionately big part of their rated power. So, they're good for confirming/showing that there is power, at all, like you did, but not for assessing the amount of power generated just by looking at the intensity of light they put out, which one might assume.
I prefer the dark burn with linseed. I bet that with wear and weather, the patina will be awesome perhaps revealing more and more of the grain. I'd try that.
Cool video and considering trying it myself! One question though, you've got the connectors you used linked, but I'm not seeing what you used for the white pieces between the splitter and the black double-female couplings. What are those?
@@TinyIndustrial Fantastic! Thanks, and looking forward to trying out your build and seeing what it can do with some modifications! Cool idea, great video, and thank you!
They probably only make 1.5 v a piece which in parallel is only 1.5v, and the min voltage to charge those are probably 10-12v, so all in series it might be enough to start charging. Looks like you might have a flow problem too, you may make only 2 runs 3 in series to minimize flow, but you may need more pressure
exactly you need more voltage, I would sugest 3series 2 paralel configuration for the water to extract more power from each "string" by having higher flow and bigger resistance so more voltage
If you put all the generators in series you will get more power. Each time you open the hose conection you are lowering the volume of water flow. Also the output of the generators are in alternating curent so you need to put a bridge rectifier on it to get dc voltage.
Appreciate the comment. Clearly I'm not a real expert on this stuff. I love making videos though and this seemed like a fun project to try out. Already pondering a part 2... Thanks for checking it out.
Nah it's more likely this is a permanent magnet brushed motor with commutation to make DC. Probably 50-70% efficient. Don't need any rectification, the commutation is already doing it.
nevermind, I watched an electronicsNmore video " How A Mini Hydroelectric Generator Works" and it actually has a 3-phase bridge in it. So not a brushed motor, but the circuit board seemed to be limited to 100mA, meaning the circuit board limits power to 1.2W.... If the regulator is bypassed so it just gets rectified with the 3-phase bridge, maybe it will produce more power.
tsbrownie "Mini Hydro-Generator, 12vDC (4K)" has potentially the same model generator. Better power but 4.5% efficiency after a flow and power test. Considering it converts very little pressure drop into electrical power, multiple turbine stages in series seems like the way to go.
That cable for the current generator is for AC (120V-230V alternating current), what you get out of those micro turbines is direct current, normally it will not work. you need an inverter dc-ac. To measure their voltage, you need a multimeter, a tool that costs $10
Oh, you mean on the battery? No, the port I'm going into on the battery is the Solar charge port. It's expecting 12V off of a panel. There is an AC charge port on the battery as well, but that's not the port I was using. Thanks for the comment and for checking out the video.
Interesting. I didn’t consider doing that. You are right though. Time to get the multimeter out and run some more tests. Either way, charging that big battery will be a challenge going this route… thanks for the comment.
@@TinyIndustrial I agree but there will be a combination of series parallel that will give you the best result. I would start at putting each of the pairs of pumps in series, and parallel the 3 sets. If you're not sure what I mean ask, I am happy to help. A multimeter would be a help. And test it under load.
Well, tiny houses only very rarely have a 'normal' toilet. Most tiny house scenarios don't have the luxury of having limitless water and a pipe that all that waste can flow down. That's precisely the reason people have to get a bit more creative with their toilet options.
Maybe...but probably not. I would more likely seal in a countertop for a bathroom for some kind of acrylic or epoxy. The reason for that is that you might wind up with some not so nice stains on a surface that is only treated with the oil. It would also likely be a bit hard to keep clean. Wiping toothpaste or similar would be kind of pain I would imagine. Once you seal the burn under some form of smoother and more robust coating, that would likely make is easier and better to enjoy the beauty of the burnt wood.
I just picked up some 4x4 doug fir lumber. Very nice and recently milled. I assume it's pretty green, but haven't checked with meter. I'm curious about doing a partially outdoor pergola project with them now, and wondering if Shou Sugi Ban would be fine to do now while green, or should wait until more dry? Any thoughts appreciated!
Hi there. That's a good question. I would imagine that if the wood is drier, that it would be advantageous. That said, I don't really know. Maybe I would split the difference and let it dry out a bit more, but not so long that you never wind up doing the pergola. Are you going to document the burn and build? Would love to see what the end result looks like.
Just two questions: 1. You burn the toilet paper with the humanure as well? 2. Can you use a squeeze bottle bidet with the system, or is there another recepticle for that? Thanks in advance for your reply.
1. Yes...it all burns (or evaporates) including urine. 2. Squeeze bottle bidet may add too much moisture to the system (w/urine). I would be a bit nervous about doing that. Will impact the overall efficiency of the system. I'm not sure how much moisture you would be introducing via the bottle.
Thanks for the video, and yes, I purchased your book as well. I liked the gypsy wagons and vardos before they were the "in thing." Just refinished my jayco, and maybe it's time for this project! You did fine on the video, and it's hard to do while you're actually doing the work and shooting footage simultaneously. Thanks again and blessings.
Thanks so much for your comment. I appreciate the kind words. Yes, sometimes when you are doing stuff, you don't really want to be filming and explaining stuff at the same time. You are very right about that.
This method is an alternative to pressure treated wood. It may not last as long as pressure treated but 1) it looks better 2) it's better for the environment. Really comes down to implementation, where you are and what the exposure is to the elements.
For a composting toilet? There are people who do it both ways. Some just clean the bucket and some use a liner (bag) and then discard of the bag at a later point.
First time I saw anything about the incineration option was when I saw a video about a couple living in a converted box truck. So this is actually my second video about that.
@@TinyIndustrial It worked great. I save a lot of videos like this, so I would have to see if I can find it. As that was my first video on that I was so surprised. I think it used propane. AND they had some sort of micro mini washing machine for clothes. I never saw anything like it. It was wall mounted I believe.
Yes, that's a popular one for sure. Definitely the winner in the 'ease of use' category. Lots of people complain about the cost of the cartridges though.
Doesn't really give off any heat. You would never really know it's an incinerating toilet unless someone told you. You would simply think that it's a different kind of toilet if you were seeing one for the first time.
Separating urine from the poops is very bad because only carbon matter avoid urine to transform in ammoniac or nitrite or nitrate which are bad for the environment. So buy only toilets that compost both at the same time. When urine is not immediately mix with carbon matter then nitrogen, contained in the urine, will bond with the hydrogen of water to form ammoniac or will bond with the oxygen to form nitrates, two toxic components. When you mix the urine with high carbon matter the bacteria and fungi in the mixture use the nitrogen in urine to synthesize the proteins and amino acids they need to grow. These organic nitrogen compounds are formed when nitrogen (in the form of ammonium or urea) reacts with the carbon compounds in the sawdust. Ex: amino acids (such as glycine, alanine, etc.) and proteins.
About the composting toilet. The secret to get no bad odors is the type and quantity of matter you use to absorb and cover your urine and poops. The matter must be high in carbon and highly absorbant. So the best matter is saw dust. Start by putting a think layer at the bottom of the contain and do not afraid to cover your excrement with a think layer of saw dust. You can also slightly turn the contain once a while to not pee always at the same place.
@@TinyIndustrial i whas brainstorming about the possibilities of a tinyhouse. If i am ever gonnna get one i dont see myself going off grid. I like the cozy size of a tiny house but want the comfort of a normal appartement. So running water, flush toilet and connected to the grid.
I understand everything perfectly except for one part. at 1:46:40, why do you run that 2x3 to attach the wall framing? wouldn't it be more structurally sound to mount the wall framing directly to the big 2x12 below? Thanks so much! I'm going to build my own trailer and then build one of these houses on top at my new home here in Guatemala!
That's a great question. I'm not entirely sure why I did it that way. You can certainly do it the way you propose and have it be find. I think that the main purpose is that with the 2x3 at the bottom of the wall, you have 1) a wider area to attach the exterior/outer wall to. and 2) perhaps more importantly, when you go to attach the interior wall, you have a better contiguous span to attach the bottom of the interior wall to as well. Without it you would just be bridging the empty space between the upright 2x3's. Make sense? Really good question though...but those are the main reasons for it. You can see what I'm talking about at 03:22:20. Imaging if that 2x3 wasn't at the bottom of that interior wall...much harder to attach interior wall material that way if it wasn't there.
Hi, thanks for the video. I want to build a very similar system, but I'm concerned about draining the system into the vent pipe. How is the tank getting air when water is flowing out through the same pipe? Thanks
Not sure I follow your question. The vent pipe is there to let air in and out of the tank when either filling or draining the tank. It's so that the tank can breathe. Without that vent there would be a vacuum in the tank and it would contract or expand. The concept is similar in a car fuel tank. As you fill your cars gas tank the air that gets displaced needs to exit the tank. If there were no vent on your fuel tank, you wouldn't be able to fill it up either. Make sense?
@@TinyIndustrial Thanks, but I understand what the vent tube is; you didn't get the question. However, I already have a solution. At 23:00, you mentioned connecting the drainage tube to the vent tube. So, I asked how the air will get in while water is flowing out through the same tube. But now I see that you can open the valve on the inlet tube, which will allow it to function as a vent tube. However, I think a better solution would be to connect the drain tube to the inlet tube. I will place a valve outside of the inlet tube as well. When I open it, I will have access to water from the tank, not just for drainage, but for everyday use-only in summer, of course.
No, I would not. When you burn after assembly, you are not going to be able to burn the parts of the wood where the pieces of the chair connect to one another. That will become the weakest link and where the wood starts to deteriorate first. I would alway recommend doing the burning before assembly so that you can make sure that ALL surfaces are treated/burned. Makes sense?
No! Definitely not. Pressure treated has a ton of chemicals in it and does not work with this preservation process. Think of pressure treated as the 'non-organic' way of preserving wood. Hope that clears it up for you.
