I picked up one of these last year, and I'm glad I did because they're all sold out except for sites trying to sell them for $400 USD lol. I do carry the regular S30V version (and the Spy27 blue FRN version while running), so the sprint run model is purely for collection as I believe that the Native Chief is one of their best models. It reminds me strongly of a better built, more readily available Benchmade AFCK.
This video is a few years old and I am new to Chris Reeve knives having just ordered but not taken delivery of a Sebenza 31. I'm really looking forward to that. Naturally, I am drawn to these videos and curious as a future owner. I am in the lubrication business and I really think it strange about the approach to lubrication. Knives are pretty much an industrial type tool in that they are fairly precision and subject to metal on metal (we call that boundary) lubrication. Whenever you have boundary lubrication, it is necessary to have a way of replacing the lubricant on a regular basis because the lubricant functions to reduce the coefficient of friction but also to draw away the wear metals that naturally occur from metal to metal contact. What I found strange is that I was watching an old video of the factory tour of CRK and Chris was talking about using WD-40--which, in my world, is akin to using snake oil on something. WD40 is a cheap light oil and basically kerosene. It is not considered a lubricant and the only use I have ever found for it is that it is terrific for removing sap and resin build up on saw blades--and it is marvelous at that. I think Chris just liked it and that is that, plus its cheap. I would put Chris in the category of many amazing machinists I have met in my 40 years in the machine world where I say, "you know a good machinist because you ask him a question and you get a lecture". The best machinists are very passionate about their work and will drive you crazy in a good way. I have nothing but respect for CRK's devotion to precision and that is why I want one of their knives to treasure. The fluorinated grease that CRK offers is a "poor man's" Krytox. Krytox is a very expensive fully fluorinated synthetic compound used in delicate operations subject to high temps and corrosion. In these compounds, hydrogen molecules are replaced by fluorine molecules to create a more inert compound less subject to chemical attack. CRK's grease is probably a synthetic compound base oil with PTFE (Teflon) as a filler or solid lubricant--I am guessing here because I don't know for sure, but that is my guess. The PTFE fills the asperities in the metal and reduces or prevents metal to metal contact once the oil is lost--which it inevitably is. CRK could have used tungsten disulfide or molybdenum disulfide as a filler, as well, but PTFE is cleaner and does not stain. I would consider PTFE to be excellent here as a solid lubricant in this service as long as it is ground very finely. Using oil is a different matter. Depending on the viscosity, a light oil is excellent, especially on polished parts that have few asperities, but it does need to be replenished on a regular basis. I am also curious on why CRK uses phosphor bronze instead of bearing bronze as the washers. Industry tends to stick with SAE 93200 leaded tin bronze because it is a lubricating bronze and works well in metal to metal applications. Phosphor bronze is used more in large castings like pump impellers. I would think that initially, it would be helpful to simply run the knife as dry as possible or with the lightest oil possible, running as many cycles as possible, frequently cleaning out the darkened oil (the darkness is caused by the wear metals produced by the friction) and replacing until the action smoothes out. The asperities will gradually be worn away to produce a smooth action. Then it would be wise to lubricate the cleaned knife with the PTFE grease provided by CRK. Just my 2 cents--I hope I haven't bored you. I really liked this video because he took a seemingly complicated issue and solved it with common sense. So thank you for making it.
Para 3 is far better and made in America. Not even close. the Chinese sage 5 lw is a 100 dollar knife AT BEST and it’s being sold for 160 lol it’s a joke
$425 to have CRK on it, or $55 for a Land 812 that is very similar. For $55 the 812 is very well made and leaves $370 to buy some Single Malt Scotch with.
Be aware that with Spyderco, if you need a 50 cent bushing for your knife pivot, you will have to send your knife back (paying shipping both ways) and pay to have it replaced. They will not simply ship you the part you need. I have a Domino with the paper thin cheap bushing that fails and it will cost me $35 to fix a $1 worth in parts. Their customer service is crap!
I have 4 LUDTs including one from 1/2012 in S35-VN, 10/2015 in Elmax, 6/2017 in M390, and a Gen3 4/2024 in M390MK. I carried the 2012 extensively and I carried the 2015 quite a bit. I never had issues with the spring and the knives always locked up perfectly. They snap open with quite a bit of force and feel great in the hand. Microtech seems to offer a better steel for the price. I don’t like that Protech has been slow to offer blades in the newer super steels, and then they do, they charge a lot more than comparable Microtechs.
Bro, check out the Petrified Fish Victor. I have one and I think it's horrible. I like the blade shape and the handle design, but the liner lock and the drop shut action just makes it dangerous and un-trustworthy to use. The lock didn't fail yet, but it's very un-trustworthy and does not feel safe at all. I even cut the hem of my pocket and flayed a small strip off of my knuckle on accident, while one trying to pull it out of the pocket, and while two, i was reaching in my pocket but the blade had opened. I think that's just bad craftsmanship. The liner lock also just barely engages the tang of the blade when opened, maybe only half of the very thin liner locks up with the tang of the very thick blade. Still a bit angry nobody told me about it's garbage action, but the blade looks cool. PS: I don't even trust them that the blade is actually K110 steel, I expect it to be a Chinese knock off, plagiarism copy.
Spyderco has partially serrated blades as well, so you can get a "two in one" knife. I just ordered the black Tenacious partially serrated one, as my first Spyderco. I paid like 65€ so it's not that bad.
It's waaay easier just to apply a tiny drop to the witness mark made by the ball bearing on the locking surface of the blade when the knife's closed. A few opens and closes and it distributes it all along the detent track.
I absolutely love my 0562. The M390 is hard to sharpen without stones, but Ive used it HARD and its toit like when it was new. It cuts and it takes a beating. I do agree about the painted clips though- Id prefer an unfinished clip that doesnt get chips in the coating.
@@asdmegX szuper nagyon korrektek érdemes szétszedni műszer olaj alátéteket ippen egy pici meg loctite 248 a két állítò csavarnak és tökéletes..:) clip-et alin kapsz én is ott rendeltem
PM2 is my preferred EDC along with Native and Dragonfly 2. I have a huge collection from all kinds of brands, but prefer the Spydies for EDC. Can't say I agree with all your assessments, but each to their own! 🤣
FYI I have a para 3 lw and a regular and the regular is much less comfortable. The wire clip is superior for comfort as are the rounded edges of the scales. After being used to the lw the regular was a bit of a let down as far as comfort. Suggest getting one in hand before purchasing.
i know this was 3 years ago but i just got an ummnumzan that has been used and has no black mark but does have even wear aka smooth spots through the coating on both sides of the scale from the thumstuds/ stop pins. no rock or blade play still feels new
I see so many people obsessing over deep carry pocket clips. I have knives that came with them, and knives that didn’t. Of all the Spydercos I own, I have not felt compelled to purchase a new clip. I just don’t get it. 🤷♂️ If you’re really concerned with someone seeing that you have a knife in your pocket, just ditch the clip altogether. I mean, no matter how deep your knife carries, the pocket clip is still a dead giveaway that you have a knife in your pocket. And for me, with the standard pocket clip, when I draw my knife it’s where I need it to open it. A deep carry clip changes that in a negative way. I think “deep carry” is one of those parroting things that newbies see/read, and then believe it’s necessary for years to come. 🙄
I been sharpening knives off and on for almost 35 years. I'm not a pro by any means. I can hand/stone convex. I jave the same knife and can't get it hair popping sharp with a convex edge. Other s30v, no prob. Other spiderco, no problem. This knife in particular gives me a problem
Hi there , i do enjoy your utube videos they are very helpfull informative and educational. Do you still like using the worsharp guided sharpener WS/GS , also which spyderco ceramic stone or stones did you use to finish up on medium, fine, or ultra fine after using the WS/GS. Kind regards Dave
I bought one 12 years ago and it’s one of the best knives I’ve ever bought. I just ordered the one with S30V steel and green micarta replacement scales and a titanium clip it’s going to be BA
They are similar in handle & blade size. Both have fingers choils & both are similar in thickness behind the edge. Personally, I prefer the back lock between these two knives. Although I’d take the frame lock of the discontinued Sage 2 over both of these locks.
Very good and interesting review sir! I recently acquired the Mini-Griptilian, and so far haven’t experienced any issues. Just wondering what your thoughts are on the “mini” version. Thanks!
Spring assisted is the only way I can deploy these flipper knives. Don't forget, some of us have finger issues like arthritis or hand issues (pinched nerves) .
