The CA glue worked really well for me when I applied multiple (3-4) thin coats. It turned out really ugly when I tried to flood the edge. A "skin" formed as the thick coat of CA dried, resulting in a very wrinkly layer of squishy dried glue that peeled off in chunks upon sanding.
I do alot of cabinet work here in NYC and I've always used watered down wood glue, leaning a bit watery, to soak into the edge. Works on rounded edges or any exposed mdf. After that, my filler primer covers up any mistakes or bumps. It's not a scientific method either, but I was curious to see these other tests. Also helps to do alot of sanding before using any edge sealer to get the mdf nice first
Acrylic primer-undercoat by leyland has always been my go too for mdf, works the best in my opinion for machined edges, needs 2 coats the first coat i see as a sacrifical coat and gets knocked back with 600 grit then i repeat but i go a little lighter with the sanding and i get very smooth edges, it acts just like a primer-filler, can be brushed on or sprayed on, i dont know anyone that uses any other method. I use thin ca glue on corners that are prone to getting knocked and damaged before priming and it works very well at hardening the mdf.
I've used the Leyland acrylic primer undercoat (for both face undercoat and edge as well) and despite knocking back with 400 / 600 / whatever grit - still can't get it looking fabulous. I mean - it looks ok. Maybe just my crap technique?
@@MatSmithLondon is it the edges that's not as good as you want? When I give my pieces their first coat I start with all the edges then hit the faces then hit all edges again so essentially giving them two coats in one, that way I find it gives a good amount of build up to knock down without removing all colour, I also prep with 220 then 320 before I prime.
i just tried this but with dense pine with some dense grains. the problem was that there is not even grain. small knots which makes weak points so if anyone wants to use pine, just think first. i a 1/4 of its thickness on the face and flipped over and did the same. the thing snapped easily. it was 0 degrees too in the garage lol.
Hmm not the ideal situation if you ask me… I hope my English is good enough for this one: The thing is; you need warmth or heat to soften the lignin and cellulose in the wood. The colder the stiffer… Hence why they steam wood 😉 But also knots and such don’t really add ‘ flexibility’ I do hope you make it work though. If you have any questions feel free to ask 😉
I’ve just subbed after watching your thin rip jig video….will you be doing a video on how to make your wonderful rainbow wood blocks? If you already have, please ignore me, lol! 😁👍🏻💕
Thanks! 😊 I made one… but it’s one of the very first I ever did. I’d have to make it again one day cause my audio back then was not good at all. But since you subbed you’ll be the first to know when it goes live 😁🫶
@@AtelierQube Cheers…I’ve watched some of your other videos and realised you’re laminating coloured veneer…I wasn’t sure if you dyed the wood yourself or not. I’ve since been drooling over coloured veneers on Google and now I know what to look for, which is sadly beyond my budget at the moment…but I can dream, lol! Your designs and tutorials are great by the way. 😁👍🏻💕
@@trappedinroom1014 oh that’s really nice! And especially nice to hear! I hope we can create a positive mentality around Rainbowwood and be a counter for all the negative going around on YT and social media in general 🤞 We’re you from? Maybe I can help you to get started. Feel free to send me an email.
You can cut up an old saw plate and make card scrapers out of it. Usually old saws are pretty cheap. Japanese saws are generally not sharpenable. So those old blades are basically garbage. If you feel bad about sacrificing an old hand saw.
This is the video's we need! I would give you a hundred thumbs up if I could...... was my initial reaction, but I think it's a shame you did all the effort to test them when you don't show all the results.... I was really curious about the results of the one you did with wood glue...
Hehe no worries! I had lost the footage from that one. That’s why it’s not in there. I was hoping the wood glue would have gone deeper into the fibres. But it didn’t perform as I hoped/thought. It sanded right back of to be honest. So I wouldn’t bet on that route. Thanks for watching and leaving a meaningful comment. If you have any questions feel free to contact me! Happy building!
Hello, thanks for your response 👍! May I ask which ratio water/woodglue you would have used? I found on the internet a ratio of 10/1, so very deluted. On the forum mentioning this ratio, there where pretty positive results. I'm really fond of these kind of videos where people compare different methods. In most cases there are a lot of different videos on each of the different methods, and the creator of the video always finds his method the best one 😁. Rarely a video which makes the comparison and choosing the right/best method more difficult. Unfortunattly the system still doesn't alow more than one thumbs up🙂. I read my initial reaction again, I hope I didn't came off a little strong 😬. Grtz you find
@@dieterpareyn1803 no worries! I don’t mind remarks if they’re supported by some explanation 😉 To be honest I didn’t measure it. I followed my guts on that one. I wanted to make sure it still had some glue to it, but still watery enough to penetrate as good as possible. Without real succes on my end. Feel free to let us know if it works for you. I feel RU-vid is a place where we all can learn 😉
Thanks again! 😊 I’m starting to wish I had more videos 😉 But no worries I’ve got some coming up. After some personal issues I’m getting back on the wagon as we speak 😁🎉
Thank you for taking the time to leave a positive comment. 😉 You’re welcome! I love doing deepdives likes this. It’s one of the best ways to learn new things.
So, in reality, you could almost hide your bent kerf by using the same plywood goto the splines and make sure the core layers match the direction of the kerf bent piece. Thank you for the walkthrough and instructions!
Really useful. With the price of plywood being what it is now I was wondering if MDF could be used for French cleats with one of these edge hardening techniques. What do you think?
I’m pretty sure that would work. Although it’s messy to work with, it’s pretty strong and stable. Especially if you think about the things you’d normally hang on French cleats. I think it’s plenty strong 😊 Let us know if you try it! 😉 I’ll keep it in mind for a future video as well 🙃
Very cool jig. This type of jig apparently would work better for the DeWalt table saws. The commercial versions from what I have seen are too short to work in the runner slots. Cheaper too! Thanks for your excellent explanation.
Great tests thank you..... I've just made under stairs rolling cabinets but I want a sort of rounded edge instead of sharp if you understand what I'm getting at.... Do you have any ideas to achieve this properly? Thank you.
Excellent video! I'm using MDF for my new bench top and I was thinking about how I wanted to take care of the edges so this saved me a lot of messing around. Thanks!
Hi. Very interesting video and nice result. I´ve seen a lot of kerf bending videos and tutorials and no work looked so original and nice. Now a question/suggestion. Wouldn´t it be easier and faster if you cut a long stripe of colored plywood, along the longer side, and then divide it into smaller pieces, instead of cutting small pieces one by one, in the short side of the board? Also you could give this long stripe the angled shape at once, instead of doing it so many times as you do with each small piece. Thanks!
Hi Dario, thanks for the nice feedback! Oh, totally! Especially if you work with more accessible wood species. You could also combine the Rainbowwood for the ends (for the visible parts) and fill in the middle part with glue or a cheaper kind of wood. Feel free to let me know if you give it a go. Happy building!
They all look kinda different from the smooth surface of the mdf. Each method you showed is either an edge/fiber sealing process or an uneven surface filling process, but none of them excel at both. Could you try doing the sealing coats (wood glue, ca glue, shellac, primer) then after that’s dry and sanded, apply the filler coats (putty, wood putty, brush on putty)?
se llama Rainbowwood. es una madera contrachapada que hago yo mismo. algunas personas también usan patinetas recicladas. Usé el traductor de Google para esto, espero que tenga sentido 😅 it's called Rainbowwood. it's a plywood i make myself. some people also use recycled skateboards. i used google translate for this, i hope it makes sense 😅
absolutely stunning. when you think about it and break it down into little steps like that, it dosnt seem to be too complicated, but the effect is just WOW
this is such a cool look, and what a great idea to use wedges in the spaces that would otherwise be empty/filled with glue and turn them into a feature rather than a flaw to be covered up! i am definitely going to try this. and i love that you explained it in so much detail and gave variations on how to get it done with different tools and techniques!
The masking tape blew my mind as well to be honest :) Woodglue and water wasn't a great succes. Not worth the hassle ;) The result was still very rough and sanding took most of it right back of...
I make a jig for ripping thin strips that doesn’t require that you move your fence between cuts, so if you still have the “Easiest Thin Rip Jig” belt, I’ll be taking it, thank you very much. ;-) Thanks for sharing, Scott
Sorry 😅 it is a thing a beauty, isn’t it? Have you seen the pictures on IG with finish on it? It’s hard to capture it, but it’s really stunning. I’m gonna be sad to see it go to be honest 😅
Ooh thanks 😊 we all have to somewhere right? But to be honest I’m not really looking at the numbers. I just love what I do and I’m happy to share what I know 😁
