Instead of building a new base for a table or clamping a new table to the old. I've noticed that all that is needed is a short section of pipe or round stock to drop into the mount. Pull one table off, put the new one on. Also, the age old problem of the crank handle, extend it to the right till it clears.
Both the original table and the new one don't have a "mount" to drop a pipe into, they bolt onto the collet around the main shaft of the drill press. Also, I didn't want to extend the handle to the right due to a number of reasons. But, thanks for watching!
I had the same idea about custom lenghts for each drawer - but i was thinking of using a wooden dowel . Do you think that would work as well ? And if not - where can i buy the aluminium rods ?
Wooden dowel might work, but the dividers might be hard to adjust on wood. The aluminum rods can be bought at Lowes or home depot, at least where I live they can be
I found that those bags don't inflate thick enough to put enough pressure on the dent. Maybe if it was between two pieces of heavy rubber... I never got that far to find out.
Adding the 2x3 piece of wood helped, but I think using a bag with just a bulb-type of pump doesn't put enough pressure. Connecting one to a compressor and slamming 120psi of air might help...for a second until the bag explodes
I cracked the digitizer. Went thru the rest of the process anyways. It works as far as holding the settings but the touch controls don't work. Is that due to the cracked digitizer? I'm assuming that's the case. Goo-b Gone worked better than the alcohol.
My door panels warped a few years ago but chrysler covered them. Part of the dash had started to curl, and I just noticed part of the center console is warping..
I need to do a follow up video on this dash cam. It worked really well for the year or so that I had it, but it eventually....melted. The plastic couldn't handle being in the sun all the time. It may have lasted longer if we parked in the garage, or if my wife had used a sun shade, but that wasn't the case. It literally just died a few days ago
@@MoonBuiltGaragei live here in arizona where temps get really high too.. ill just start putting some money away for a future replacement. Mine just seems to be really warm during record time
they're called wedges because they're supposed to be used as wedges to open up space to get the real tools down on the dents, you slide them down into spaces like between the door window glass and the door skin so you can pump them up to WEDGE the space open so you can slide your rods down and work the back side of the dent, you don't use bags to actually remove dents ....that's too funny...
I've really got to thank you for making this video. I have to make some stop sign shaped signs for someone. 18 of them in fact. I have a CNC router that I make signs with and I have never ever had any luck at all with any type of painting on MDF. I was happy to see the results of your remake on the Killz primer being rolled on. That really looks nice. So now I know what to use on my project, and believe me I wan't looking forward to the painting part as I have, like I said, never had any luck at all paining MDF. Thanks again buddy, I really appreciate this video. Jim
When I was a kid, we had Liquid Wrench and it worked much better than today's wrench. Smelled different then today's as well. But still my go to penetrant.
I have never put a tap in a drill, i hate tapping threads, when the tap gets stuck i keep thinking it's going to break, makes me shiver just thinking about it.
That last sheet metal bit you showed, I use it to cut the lids off the 200 oil drums. Works really good and cuts it off the flange so its nice and flush, without any sharp edges. I use those drums for scrap metal. The other thing I found out, is that you can use round shank bits on a hex shank air hammer. And I didnt know that there is a frame that you can mount your airhammer, to use it like that. It seems like a good idea. Thanks mate!
Possibly, but the resistance measurement will be different....you'll have to measure the resistance at different lengths to get a similar value as what the safety wire gives you, and if it's too long for the same resistance you might not have enough room to make all the wraps without the wire touching
hello buddy~ 2017 dodge hellcat here. Your how-to-video really helped me to solve this problem. Thanks so much~ I actually did the repairing one year ago.(Very difficult procedure it was) One small issue I found out is that when the screen gets heats up ...say after driving an hour or more depending on the temperature outside .. the touch screen does not seem to recognize the touch. (no ghost touching like before though). When the car (the screen) gets cooled (like next day), it works perfectly back to normal. Do you have any idea why is that or any suggestion you can give? Thanks in advance.
I could be the gap between the screen and the digitizer...maybe...is your digitizer bant or warped in some way? Maybe the tape you used isn't thick anough and the heat from the screen is interfering with the digitizer and once it cools it works again...just spit-balling here
@@MoonBuiltGarage hell buddy. Thank you again for the kind reply. Mine is not bent or warped. I used the same Gorilla tape you used. YOu maybe be right about the heat built up between the screen and digitizer causing my issue here. I noticed this time that when the car gets really heat up (I meant the screen gets quite hot), the screen acts again the ghost touching and was unable to recognize the my finger touch. When the car gets cooled, it works again prefectly. I am thinking about re-doing the Gorilla taping procedure. By taking your advice, here are my new trouble shooting ideas. 1. use same Gorilla tape you used...but this time making two layers to double the space between the screen and the digitizer. 2.54mm x2 = 5mm that is. (making two layers of Gorilla tapes on top of the first layer) --> this will minimize the heat builtup I hope. 2. stick the strips of Gorilla tapes on edges with the space intervals, allowing hot air built-up between the screen and digitizer to be let out. Previously all 4 edges were pretty much tightly sealed without the space intervals. what do you think? Kind regard.
I installed the linkage. I can’t find the screen where you are supposed the enable the prgessive linkage and change the percentage. Do I need a software update?
What a cool deal. My favorite part is that you remember to do cool little ornate touches. Like bead rolling the sheer wall and if you're going to install fenders, why not make them in the low rider style for which was the cart's inspiration. I always forget to have fun in the interest of completion.
The fender detail was a bit of afterthought, and to get the job done I went with a quick and easy detail. I wanted to add a few other details, but the project ran longer than I had hoped, so in the interest of getting it done I gave some of them up
