Celebrating 12 years on the road in their vintage, solar powered, travel trailer named Hamlet, two 50-somethings with a travel addiction have discovered how to live with less, work from the road, and spend as much time playing outside as possible. On any given day, you'll find them kayaking, hiking, boondocking, or cycling through some of our continents most beautiful deserts, mountains, rivers, and coastlines. Together, they offer blogs, seminars, photography, videos, product reviews, and education to those seeking a to live a healthy, active, and mobile lifestyle. Subscribe to this channel to come along for the ride! More info and inspiration @ freedominacan.com
You're so welcome! Thanks for the note! We'll be doing an updated online presentation, with a whole lot more, this weekend at the Vintage Camper Boot Camp Summit (Friday, August 23rd at 4pm PDT) Check out here. vct-boot-camp.heysummit.com/?sc=cl1dFRro&ac=zIxSdSOs Registration is free to participate, use "CANLIFE" promo code and get 20% off the full access pass.
Thanks for the feedback. It's worked without a problem for over 3 years now. We learned some things through this project and there's some things we would do differently if were to redo it.
Anyone have info on how the automatic on/ off feature works ? As well the description of what the shunt leds mean? Bluetooth no problem Renogy can’t explain what the flash power light means ? Red to yellow
I'll see what we can find out about the LED light, it's not very intuitive for sure. I'm not sure what you mean re automatic on / off feature? Can you clarify?
@@FreedomInACan thanks for the reply. See, my boss bought the whole package last year. Two 400Ah 12V LifePo4 rego batteries, 110V inverter, combiner, solar charger etc. I installed everything on January and ran al the possible tests. 6 months later [last week] boss comes to use the RV and one of the batteries ain't working. It's got a red light blinking on the status área. And I really dunno what the cause may be or how to fix. Any idea what may be going on? Also do these batteries can hold an AC unit or Microwave? Cause its blowing all the protection fuses I put in
@@nanref0392 For Battery red light, it's telling you what's wrong, see the HUGE manual - store-fhnch.mybigcommerce.com/content/RBT12400LFPL-SHBT/User%20Manual_REGO%2012V%20400Ah%20Lithium%20Iron%20Phosphate%20Battery.pdf Page 43 is trouble shooting.
These batteries should be powerful enough to run the AC for a while, and definitely Microwave. Is it blowing your circuits in the AC breaker box? That sounds like you've just got too much load in one circuit. Does it blow when plugged into shore power?
@@FreedomInACan im testing the circuit 1 by 1. Everything is off just AC is ON. Is a Coleman 15 110vac 10A. And is blowing 100Amp fuses. NOW... Everything in the RV'd breaker box seems to work fine, overload nor overheat right voltage and amperage. But the cable that connects the combiner and inverter (2awg copper wire 660v) is the one overheating, installed a fuse for safety and goes up to 150Amp blowing the fuses.
I was under the impression that is was bad for the panels to be left disconnected from any load if they can be producing output. Maybe that’s an older methodology, but it has made me pause to rethink some design features of a solar setup. But, if they can be left disconnected (as long as they don’t short) that simplifies some things for me. Can you shed any insight on that?
@@Mr_SynergyPerformance Thanks for the great question. It is my understanding that the risk of leaving panels illuminated, but disconnected, is more about an unplanned shock (wires not plugged into a circuit in the off position) rather than any damage to the panels. But let me ask our engineer friends at Renogy and get back to you with more specifics and reasons. Sound good?
Use CANLIFE promo code at Renogy checkout to save an additional 10% off most products -- even on SALE items! Use this affiliate link: renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY Promo code CANLIFE valid in the United States, Canada, Germany, Australia, and the United Kingdom!
@@kkopetzki The Battery Shunt 300 works with Bluetooth, so it can connect wirelessly to either the DC Home App on your phone or the Renogy One Core monitor. We think that the monitor is a better way to go.
the one your comparing to at 1:27 is 1/3rd of the price and it comes with a shunt and the one sells theat sepratly for another $100. if you dont need the smart features or the leveler then its not worth it.
@@kyfisher3662 what I think is most helpful about the Core, and what makes it worth the extra money is that you can see both the state of charge, (right from the BMS, rather than the shunt which is an estimate) and the solar watts coming into the system, all from the home screen. This has really helped us out in lots of situations. But hey, it's your money and you do you.
Were you paid for this review? Because I'm not seeing anything but negative reviews for this app. And I'm not seeing anything but positive video reviews which makes me suspicious. Many say they can't use it without internet so using it off grid is impossible. Another person says they lost all their history.
@Maxid1 - We are Renogy Ambassadors and reviewing products is one of the things we do for them -- but that doesn't mean it's not a fair assessment. The app has certainly had its challenges, but at this point I wouldn't even mess with this older tech to monitor your off-grid set up. The latest generation of wireless monitors are far superior, in our estimation, and for the past year we've been using the Renogy One Core monitor in our own rig without an issue. Here's an installation video for that one - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZQqhuSNEEDI.htmlsi=AkETRIaNNZKHrnGC We use a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery set up, so they connect through blue tooth. However, if you have AGM, GEL, or Flooded Lead Acid, you can connect using the Battery Shunt 300. And here's a video that we have about that one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NLQ8UAF_hy0.htmlsi=pzqTOvQTSdUA3etz Happy to answer any questions you might have about the installation or options or troubleshooting. Thanks and hope this helps.
Regarding the diagram at 2:31 - wouldn't it be better to place the charger on the trailer side of the connector? The way it is drawn, the solar panels would only work when the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle. Also - does this setup work with Lithium Ion trailer batteries? Thank you.
Yeah, for sure, you can do it that way. An Anderson connector makes a good disconnect for the towing vehicle. Also, it does work with LiFePO4 batteries, just have to select the appropriate mode on the charger. More info and videos: DC to DC chargers can be put in the tow vehicle or the trailer. These devices take the trickle charge from the alternator while you are driving, pump it up, and send it to whatever battery bank you choose. They come in two different styles (standard and dual input) -- and can be incorporated with solar in a variety of ways, making them very versatile, especially when the weather isn't cooperating. This video shows a 20A standard version. He uses it to augment the SOC on his trailer battery bank while driving between campsites, then uses a portable solar suitcase while camping. Alternatively, here's an example of a 30A dual input version with a little hack we added recently. We use ours in a couple of different ways to charge two different battery banks, depending on what needs to be charged at the time. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AMFJmfSLJ0I.htmlsi=fA_vV62hVCyIGV-q And, here's the step-by-step installation of the dual input version from a few years ago: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ur7gKRKp7aY.htmlsi=ByGLxHgIs5HeP2ee Finally, here's an example of a standard 60A REGO DC to DC charger installed in the trailer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dVD1oRIgBQc.htmlsi=6WXt2oAPNVHBb0mk as well as the wiring installation on the truck: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IsRrIKzWpFo.htmlsi=kS0MmNHzXefl6s7e Appropriately sized Anderson connectors between the truck and trailer are your best bet! Hope this helps clear things up! Use our link renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code CANLIFE to save 10% on Renogy products.
Hi ! Thank you for this nice video ! I don’t understand how to plug a load. For exemple my fan, I want to plug to one of the switches. Where do you plug the negative wire from the fan ? And in the book, the diagram shows a « <30v power supply » what is it ? I only have my 12v battery lol. There is something I don’t get… :( Thank you :)
Hey there, thanks for the questions. I believe that only the positive wire goes through the switch, so that you can turn on or off. Also, the manual is showing that it can handle less than (<) 30V, so 12v or 24v systems will work fine. Hope that helps!
Also having trouble with this. I have followed the installation instructions and I can turn the led lights I have on but the reboot switch does not turn them off. Can you send a picture of videos of how yours has been worked up please 🙏🏾
@@alexmoore4031 Not sure if I totally understand your question. See 6:00 in the vid, where we install the led lights and fan to the switches. If you are still having trouble, send us a photo of what you have to freedominacan1957@gmail.com. Thanks and hope that helps.
The DC to DC charger can't boost both voltage and current at the same time without providing additional power. That's thermodynamically impossible. However, upsizing the wires like you did would definitely improve power transmission.
Excellent video! I've been searching YT for guidance on creating a small system for my back yard lighting. What I couldn't find anywhere else is description on how to size the system (volts, amps, watts). For that, big thanks! I have some concerns about heat - I'm in the southwest and would like to know if I can keep all components (especially battery) boxed outside. Hope you cover that sometime.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. So many people try to guess and either undersize or oversize their system, hence the video and all the seminars we offer. Regarding batteries and components overheating, always check the specs of your components before you buy them. They do have min/max temps for safe operation. You'll want to keep some air flowing in the summer in the southwest. Some folks use small cooling fans connected to a thermostat so they automatically come on when too warm. Just build the fans into your average daily watt hours and they can run on solar too. For freezing temps, some LiFePO4 batteries come with a self-heating function. We have Renogy's LFP PRO batteries right now and they've been rock stars. Check out this review video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-opRodMYk5io.htmlsi=tHIqwyv8bKxiVhTv
I'm missing something. I would think most people would have Solar on their Trailer not on their vehicle. So how would this work to charge from Solar and the vehicle while driving?
DC to DC chargers can be put in the tow vehicle or the trailer. These devices take the trickle charge from the alternator while you are driving, pump it up, and send it to whatever battery bank you choose. They come in two different styles (standard and dual input) -- and can be incorporated with solar in a variety of ways, making them very versatile, especially when the weather isn't cooperating. This video shows a 20A standard version. He uses it to augment the SOC on his trailer battery bank while driving between campsites, then uses a portable solar suitcase while camping. Alternatively, here's an example of a 30A dual input version with a little hack we added recently. We use ours in a couple of different ways to charge two different battery banks, depending on what needs to be charged at the time. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AMFJmfSLJ0I.htmlsi=fA_vV62hVCyIGV-q And, here's the step-by-step installation of the dual input version from a few years ago: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ur7gKRKp7aY.htmlsi=ByGLxHgIs5HeP2ee Finally, here's an example of a standard 60A REGO DC to DC charger installed in the trailer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dVD1oRIgBQc.htmlsi=6WXt2oAPNVHBb0mk as well as the wiring installation on the truck: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IsRrIKzWpFo.htmlsi=kS0MmNHzXefl6s7e Appropriately sized Anderson connectors between the truck and trailer are your best bet! Hope this helps clear things up! Use our link renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code CANLIFE to save 10% on Renogy products.
I have a starcraft comet that say it needs zamp solar panels as mine is solar ready can I change it like you did and do you have a better video showing how u cut it and re attached it thanks
Actually, lots has changed since this video was made. You can just get the reverse polarity adaptor and SAE connector, too, if you need it. All links and info about this are in the comments and the video description. Hope this helps!
Update: We have recently learned that the Battery Shunt 300 will NOT be compatible with the Renogy ONE M1 as originally expected. So, if you want to use this shunt, then you'll need to purchase this updated version of the Renogy ONE instead: renogy.sjv.io/jrkQDM
For this older unit, yes, it is only designed for use with Renogy LFP batteries. BUT, the updated Renogy ONE Core monitor can be used if you purchase their Battery Shunt 300 to wirelessly communicate with any non-LFP batteries and/or any other manufacturer's batteries. Here are a few links to learn more: *Renogy ONE Core: renogy.sjv.io/jrkQDM Installation & Review: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZQqhuSNEEDI.htmlsi=BfRR3xh2B94KNl8Q *Having used this device for over a year now, we can honestly say we truly love it! **Battery Shunt 300: renogy.sjv.io/1rLo3D Info/Update/Review: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NLQ8UAF_hy0.htmlsi=4G6CgyqZPRpAkz01 **This product is crazy popular! As soon as they get them in, they are sold out again. Stay on the lookout for them. Let us know if you have further questions.
@@eddanca Got an answer from the Renogy's engineering team in CA. Here's what they said... "The team tells me it is for a future development and is not a useful function at this time. It is potentially being prepared for some shortcut operations, such as matched scenes, and may subsequently add some energy device operations, such as the inverter switch, the controller load switch. I cannot say whether it will be a retroactive function or moreso supporting new items like a distribution box system that we are currently developing." Hope this helps!
seeing this 4 years post production and all that work snipping and crimping and all you had to do was take off the wire nuts and swap the red and black wires then put the wire nuts back on. Work SMARTER, not harder!
The wire nuts were actually crimped on, so no simple unscrew. The irony here is that within a year of this video they started making very cheap reverse polarity adapters, which are even simpler. We noted this change, even linked, in both the pinned comment and video description, that few people actually read. Thanks for the feedback!
Y'all are the best! I got this years ago & have been using it a lot recently. Had to double check which spot to use as the charger, and you had every answer quick & easy.
Thank you for all these videos!! I've spent most of my day watching them as I try to figure out solar, as I am going to be dry camping in a week and a half for a week. My biggest concern is powering my fridge. What are you all able to power with this 400w package? And did you need one 100AH battery? Or a 200AH battery?
Hey, thanks for the nice comment. We're able to run a lot with this 400W panel - when we put it out we're able to top up our battery bank even while we're working. Here's a link to everything on our system, freedominacan.com/solar-powered-by-renogy keep scrolling down to the bottom. One thing to keep in mind is that this particular panel (400) doesn't come with an included Charge Controller, so you'll need one if you don't have it already. Good luck and Let us know if you have any other questions. And use CANLIFE promo code at Renogy to save an additional 10%! renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY
Oh my goodness this video/worksheet is absolutely amazing, you really break everything down. Not only did you explain the calculations you explained the actual item purposes too (perfect for the hard headed ones like myself). I’ve been skeptical about purchasing solar just because I was scared to calculate wattage before hand, you made this process easy, breezy, beautiful. Renogy really needs to add this to their website! Amazing job guys <3
Thanks! This comment made our day. We hope you figured it all out, but let us know if you have any questions. Also, if you choose to go with Renogy, be sure to use our promo code "CANLIFE" for an additional 10% off. Plus they've got a wicked sale going on right now, from June 12th - July 3rd! Good luck with the project!
Thanks for the comment. We never tested with BT-1 module. When we were testing the Battery Shunt 300 , (see video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NLQ8UAF_hy0.html) we had our 2 x 100Ah LFP w/ Self heating function LFP Batts connected to the Core monitor via BT-2 and the shunt at the same time. We found that the shunt was slightly less accurate than what the BMS was communicating through the BT-2. I don't know if that claim was about SLA batteries, or not, perhaps it is more accurate with those? FYI, we now have 2 x 100 LFP PRO batts installed, with built-in Bluetooth. These are awesome batteries, give them a look - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-opRodMYk5io.html Let us know if you have any further questions, happy to help.
@@FreedomInACan I'm running 2 of the renogy 200ah with built-in blue tooth currently. They have been great. I have the shunt but not the bt1 was just curious
Fake camper? Haha, you clearly haven't watched our channel. How does 12 years on the road in our Vintage rig sound, plus a lifetime of backcountry? Check out our website freedominacan.com. We work with several brands, but only one Solar company. Keep on rolling!
Registration is FREE to participate, but if you want to be able to download the material for later viewing, take advantage of the early bird pricing for the first 100 participants at this link: vct-boot-camp.heysummit.com/?sc=cl1dFRro&ac=zIxSdSOs
Do you have another video that explains about the efficiency of the 2 different solar arrays and why you’d need to swap? We have 400 W on the roof and want to get a 200 to 400 W suitcase. If they were both at 400 W it wouldn’t be an issue to go through the same 50 amp charge controller? We have an external input that goes through the same controller. Thanks!
Hey there, thanks for the question. While we don't have another video, we just wrote a blog concerning this issue -- freedominacan1957.blogspot.com/2024/05/summertime-strategies-for-staying-cool.html#:~:text=System%20Integration%20Options,a%20few%20ways%3A Concerning your issue. How many panels do you have on the roof? I'm guessing 2 x 200W. So when connecting all of your panels together, roof and portable, they will need to be similar wattages. If you want to simply go through the same controller, use a 200W portable. Or you could have a separate controller for the 400W portable, (see our review of the Renogy 400W Lightweight ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dDgs9RaqUkA.htmlsi=mQX0D4-50Sc0dKwI), or lastly do the hack we showed in this video to isolate your panel arrays so that you won't loose the efficiency of the 400W. And if you want to go with Renogy, be sure to use our affiliate link: renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code "CANLIFE" for 10% off. All the best, and let us know if you have any further questions.
BIG NEWS!!! Use CANLIFE promo code at Renogy checkout to save an additional 10% off most products -- even on SALE items! Use this affiliate link: renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY Promo code CANLIFE valid in the United States, Canada, Germany, Australia, and the United Kingdom!
For anyone watching this video at this point, please note his comments about buying a "reverse polarity" adapter to avoid having to swap wires etc. So much easier and they're cheap. Good vid and nice to help your parents
I bought one about a month ago. I bought mine on eBay at the Renogy Store. It came and I immediately took it to the backyard and pointed it at the sun. I plugged it into my Bluetti AC180 and was pulling in 390 watts on the kickstand, not lowered for the season Azmith. It's a little awkward for this 74-year-old man, but it's doable. I built my own extension cable too. Looks like a winner for me.
I think that it only communicates directly with Renogy batteries. However there is a work around. The Renogy Battery Shunt 300 will connect to any battery and provide the communication to the Renogy ONE Core. The shunt does not work with the Renogy ONE M1.
Here's the link for the Battery Shunt 300, renogy.sjv.io/1rLo3D use promo code CANLIFE for 10% off. Let us know if you have any further questions and good luck.
Bifacial panel co.panies claim to get power from the reflection of light. So why did you not face the power side of the panel to the sun and measure your power output and then cover the power side of the panel to see how much actual power that panel still receive without moving the panel. You did not even use the same kind of panel, your foldable panel will have less output since it got got more intetnal connections, so itbis not a compareable test.
Thanks for the feedback. This was hardly a laboratory test, and we never intended it to be. We were merely trying to compare the percentage of the "real world" conditions vs. the rated watts of the two types of panels, 100W portable and 220W bi-facial. We're not comparing the two panels, rather under what conditions did one panel perform better with regards to the observed percentage of its rated wattage. And in terms of covering the front of the bi-facial, much of the power from the back comes from light passing through the panel itself -- it is clear glass, so we did not think that doing a test like you suggested would show much. Again, thanks for your insight.
We have a 2015 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 with 4.2 engine. I believe we have what is considered a "Smart Alternator" but we only installed the ignition signal wire for this unit, and it seems to be working great. It's been awesome for 3 years of full-time living.
i want to create a solar dump to my water heater via a plug or relay. is that possible? i have renogy core, smart shunt and 12V/24V IP67 50A DC-DC Battery Charger with MPPT. Will one of these accessories, trigger a plug or relay, when my battery is full
interesting, so you want to be able to set up a relay to come on, which would turn on the water heater, when the battery is at 100%? Lemme ask the Rengineers about this one and see what we can mess with?
@@FreedomInACan thats exactly it. i currently dont have any smart accessories, so i cant test. also, do you have to pay for subscription to use their smart accessories? plugs/relays...etc?
Got it. And no, you don't have to purchase a subscription plan to use these accessories, online or offline. The plan is only necessary if you want to track specific parameters, like solar planning, historical data, and if you want to control several different Core monitors from the same place.
Yes, but you have to have it connected through a charge controller. These inexpensive devices are the real brains of the system. It will make sure that the battery doesn't get overcharged or overheated. Best of luck!
