I've got a problem with these impellers splitting at the hub part. Put a new one on about 15 hours ago. No pee yesterday. New one split. Either a batch of crap impellers - both were bought at the same time as a pair of kits - or maybe the replacement Woodruff key-type thing is the wrong size. Looks too small to me. And the old one went to the tip in a big bag of crap two weeks ago. Thought about this just after getting the email saying they'd shipped the new impeller. I'm guessing you can't just buy a new key on its own. Bollocks. BTW, just wait until you need to change the cam belt. Easy-ish once you've found the proper tool to pull off the flywheel. (which you'll never use again). And one more BTW. A free pdf of the workshop manual for these motors is easy to find online. Looking at the comments below, some might find this useful.
I replaced my window a few months ago everything was fine until I hit the tracks to hard. I figured it couldn’t be the windshield because it was 4:59 on the same driver side I got some Marine Loctite, no more leak
Can somebody help me please? I tried to remove the lower unit, it worked but it only comes down about 4 inches and that it, sound like the shaft requires something to be removed, not sure what to do, help please :)
You're missing the two nuts that releases the shift rod. Make sure you're in reverse and then they are both exposed. They are facing the back of your boat, middle of the shaft
Three years later, and a completely different brand of dehumidifier but I just found your video. I've only replaced relay's when they've blown up and are easy to spot but that's not always how the fail and your diagnosis completely makes sense. Glad I don't have to try to find a new main control board (discontinued), try to diagnose/replace the brains of it (my initial thought, and should probably involve an oscilloscope that I don't own), or spend $300 for a new dehumidifier! Thank you! Relays are cheap and easy to solder, just be sure to use flux!
Edit! So a year later and I'm on the water and motor is barely peeing. I beach the boat and take off lower end (make sure to keep tools on your boat!) and inspect impeller - it was fine but TWO old impeller blades were stuck in water channel (under metal gasket) restricting water flow...make sure to take the screen intake off and find old broken impeller blades unlike I did!!
For anyone with this style Frigidaire dehumidifier that is having the compressor won't turn off while powered off issue and are sick of trying to hit the relay each time. The style compressor relay these use is SFK-112DM. Four solder points on the bottom of the board.
I have one with a dial that runs even when I turn the dial to off. Maybe bc my room is very humid? I just started using it, bought used and owner said works fine but it could be stuck on continuous mode somehow.
Thanks for this episode. I dropped the lower unit on my Honda 20hp, informed by your tutorial. It was easy, and when I found the impeller intact, I used my compressor to blow out the intake tube. All reassembled, and water circulating like it should. Problem solved!
@@towerh6680 Definitely! But the main benefit for me of viewing video tutorials like yours is that it demystifies the mechanical processes involved, and gives me the confidence to just dive in and do it. I recently installed a n OEM starter motor and related parts on an 8HP Yamaha outboard, and again, it was thanks to online content that I was able to tackle this much more complicated job. Cheers!
@davidcooper2516 Right! I enjoy that as well. I also make the videos so when I forget how to do it I just watch it again lol. I keep a spare impeller and the few tools needed on my boat at all times now so I can fix on the water if needed.
@@towerh6680 Great idea. I'll be doing that too, though this job would be much more challenging while afloat. But the consequences of running the engine without a functioning impeller are clearly disastrous. I always have a backup to get to port in the form of an electric trolling motor. Slow, but reliable.
The numbers tell if the TCU was manufactured in Japan or the USA. ALWAYS try to get the TCU manufactured in Japan. Those manufactured in the USA are JUNK. I have replaced these a number of times in Honda Accords for people and most times I simply go for 90, 91, 92 models as they are interchangable. I look for Japanese rather than worrying about the specifics of the car.
Saved me from having to buy a new one, thanks so much for posting this, I thought our machine was possessed when it ran even when switched off. I followed your advice, sorted👍
Worked like a charm thank you! Did not even have to replace humidity sensor or relais(yet)..was somewhat surprised how well the unit was built..def worth repairing
The glass body component should be a diode, might just be a common 1N4148 type but hard to say. These are common for protection or other low voltage circuit tricks. Not sure what it would be doing on a humidity sensor board. It looks like the leads corroded away which is strange, but maybe it's constantly exposed to condensation. The leads on components like that are usually a type of iron alloy which explains the red rust residue. I have a similar humidifier that I found with the compressor stuck on and it's likely the stuck relay as well. Thanks for the video showing what to expect and giving me hope that it's actually serviceable. A lot of things are built so proprietary and completely unserviceable now. The contacts are worn in the relay and starting to weld themselves together. Maybe you can get lucky and it works for a while, but it's likely to happen again. It's PCB mounted for the coil connections to trigger it, but that might be 2-4 leads and you just have to heat up those connections and gradually pull it out without damaging the PCB.
Welcome! I've revisited my videos because I forget too lol. It wasn't peeing great yesterday when I was crabbing so looked at the video to see how it should...blew air in the line and it cleared it.
Haha me too. That's why I make these videos. Wasn't peeing good yesterday so I watched the ending of the video to see lol. Blew compressed air in the line and it cleared it.
Excellent and informative video. As someone else mentioned, there is no need to remove the three plug-ins on the left side that connects to the ECU, just the two plug-ins to the TCU, then remove the main mounting securing nuts and carefully withdraw the entire unit far enough to rotate it which provides access to the three mounting screws for the TCU. Once that is in hand you can easily repair or replace.
Thanks for the video. I have a the same dehumidifier lasted about 5 years. It's not working properly so I check the capacity and it's OK but didn't know about the relay or the sensor.
My LG is doing the same thing - compressor runs until you unplug it, regardless of power panel display or humidity level. Relays don't fare well in wet conditions. They also are mechanical devices and the contacts tend to burn or corrode either making continuous contact or none at all. Thanks for sharing!
