Welcome to my channel! Here I´m sharing my passion for model scenery creation. My goal with every video is to push the limits for increased realism and still keeping the methods and materials simple and low cost. Most of the materials, software, tools and machines has been provided by different manufacturers over the 12 years I´ve been an active RU-vidr. Every new video therefore needs to be tagged with the "This video contains paid product placement". However, in real life the channel is totally dependent on donations and Patrons for it´s continuation.
Great video. You covered a broad range of products. I have found Lighter Fluid to be effective in that it doesn’t leave a residue. It is also useful in removing other solvents and oil.
I always solder the left inductor to the top of the left brushterminal (where the capacitor is connected) and let it point directly to the right (seem from the video's perspective). This way both inductor point to the same direction and not upwards.
Before i retired, to build a model railway, !! I had use of a larger and more powerful laser cutter, cutting a wide range of materials. Some like PVC, Lexan and Styrene either release toxic gases or melt and give a poor cut. Leather can be cut but stinks! Polyester fabric and felt can be cut but the air blast can blow cut pieces into the laser path. Cutting at the lasers maximum thickness of cut is also a hazard as the materials continue to burn or the cut line is blurred and turned to charcoal. I preferred to cut a number of thin sheets in MDF or birch ply around 2mm thick and glue these together for a stronger cleaner result. Ventilation of the fumes and cleaning the resins and dirt from cutting is the messy side of lasers.
Martin, you’re a legend!🎉 you are making peoples lives better, thank you. So much to learn and you have so much experience and knowledge and your willing to share it. Thank you.
Your tutor tutorial on the helix radius mathematics I’ve had to watch several times but it’s very educational. Thank you and you prevented future problems for me. Thank you again.❤
Hello, My name is Herman and i live in Holland My intention is to purchase a 3D printer, which one would you recommend? I am a beginner who still has to learn, so it is not to difficult. I hope you can help me. Thank you Herman
Another video using expensive kit that the average modeller cannot justify the outlay. I used to enjoy your practical videos using basic equipment and materials, now I usually switch them off after a few seconds. Please get back to basics!
Excellent idea. The tools today have come far, however I also hope that they don't compromise the vocational crafted skills. Laser cutting is very precise of course. Cheerio.
We really are moving into a world where we don't need as much manufacturing as we used to, where DIY used to require learned skills and take talent, now you can download a file and load it into a printer or cutter or whatever, and poof everything we need.
I see these laser cutters are coming down in price. There's still a little too expensive for me but that's encouraging because I want to get one but I'm not spending more than $500 for it.
I was there only for a week, so there was no real time for actual build. He just wanted some advise on planning and also to talk about and ride trains together. However, it’s possible I re-visit in a years time to follow up on the progress, but it’s not in plan as per current.
Thanks Martin, when using acrylics If you pre wet the surface with wet water prior to applying the acrylic paint mixture it will wick into the crevices similar to the oil based mixture. By varying the amount of water for prewetting you can also create realistic flooded weathered water effects. Plus acrylics are non toxic and dry extremely fast. In my opinion acrylics provide the most versatile, safe, non toxic, time saving and easy cleanup results for painting anything that requires painting on a model railroad layout. Because of their natural blending nature and the fact they can easily be thinned with water to make stains and using different ratios of paint and water or alcohol, I find it isn't necessary to use anything else to create any painted effects. Although I bought weathering pastel chalks when I started to build my layout I have never used them because the same effects can be achieved with acrylics permanently, without the mess. One thing to keep in mind when painting new unpainted plastic surfaces is that a FLAT primer coat of any FLAT primer made for plastics should be applied to give some tooth for the acrylic craft paints to stick to. Any rattle can FLAT primer for plastics will work but I have had good results with most matte Krylon Fusions or Camouflage spray paints. Rustoleums FLAT Red primer for plastic is excellent for priming brick. It provides excellent tooth and dries in less than a minute and can be painted over almost immediately. A single light coat is all that needs to be applied. When it comes to the primer coat, the lighter the better. It's important not to over apply the primer coat. It's better to be somewhat streaky rather than a solid uniform coat. The idea is to apply a FLAT base coat for the acrylic paints to adhere to. The thicker the final paint coat, the less detail will be noticeable. Flat or matte finishes are the key to creating realistic looking finishes on natural looking wood, brick, masonry, earth, and turf surfaces as found in the natural world. I'm not familiar with the rest of the world but I know there are no shinny looking plastic buildings, shingles, fences or trees in my neighborhood. I even disassemble, mask, prime, repaint, and weather some of Woodland Scenics and all of my Menards buildings with flat acrylic craft paints to create a level of cohesion with all other structures. The flat acrylic craft paints also do an exceptional job of hiding the unnatural imperfections and shiny plastic dimpleing that sometimes occur in the molding process.
