Just a few videos showing some techniques etc for woodworkers. As I make custom pieces for people which are genuine one offs I don't show these on my channel to ensure that my customers truly have a one of a kind. but I am more than happy to put up pieces I use myself or are copies of mainstream pieces.
Very inspiring. Kudos to you. I had a Monks Bench, made from English Oak. It was a bench that converted into a table and the bench was hinged for a otterman storage. It was a beautiful piece of furniture. 💛💜💛
We get ripped off in NZ. Even allowing for exchange rates, AU and USA prices are can be 2 times or more dearer. So making your own velcro sanding sheets is a great idea. Thank mate.
Hilarious!!!! Came to see some of your work because I am building an island and having a hard time trying to hide the casters. I ended up not understanding the mechanism for the casters on the jointer but sure I am relating to the video of the cat. I love that guys can be cat people too. Adorable animal and woodworker as well!!
I use thumb tacks to hold down sandpaper and other abrasives when applying adhesive. A quick drying adhesive is spray headliner adhesive (any auto store) which incidentally makes good paper gasket adhesive as it's the same stuff as Gasgacinch.
A quick search yielded the following prices. Thanks again for pointing us in the right dirtection Felt $3-$4 a yard Veltex Fabric $13.40 a yard doll velour $8-$10 a yard
I bet in the states you could find something similar at a store called Michael's ( www.michaels.com ) or Jo Ann Fabrics ( www.joann.com ) I'm in MN but believe they are national chain stores. Michaels is an arts and crafts store. Thanks for taking the time to share your idea with us. Greatly appreciated.
Great job! Beautiful work! I've seen these and have been fascinated by their versatility but could never see myself paying hundreds of over a thousand for this piece. I hope to build one myself one day
Ever since I saw the first one, variations on this design have proliferated all over YT. There may even be more of these retractable caster videos than on finding Hitler's Mercedes. I've watched a lot of these videos, and I've tried three - there's one for the tablesaw and I've built two for my workbenches. And I'm here to tell you, this is how it's done, right here. This is the Right Way to do it. Thanks, Tayler. Ramblin' on: even Carl may not be the first guy to demonstrate the basic concept, which is to mount the casters on a hinged length of wood and use your foot to raise it. That's oversimplifying but fundamentally that's it. Some of the videos make it more complex than a 747. I really love those videos, those Rube Goldberg contraptions, as long as somebody else is doing all that unnecessary work. At least one has computer controlled stepper motors. Some of the videos show how to screw it up, which is mind-boggling, like screwing up an anvil with a rubber mallet. Hint: stay away from anything showing more than one spring. Another hint: if the guy pulls out a welder, click out. The same, if the guy uses a 100 ton punch. Most of the videos just show how to do it the same but different. But this video here is the grail. Build 'em this way, you'll be fine.
There is very little info out there on this procedure. It appears you have a hybrid style table saw in that the trunnion is mounted directly beneath the table. If I understand you correctly, you are recommending loosening the trunnion cap mounting bolts a tad to make the blade alignment, this sounds & looks plausible. I do believe cabinet mounted cast iron saw trunnions are also adj. in this manner. There are RU-vid videos out there showing a different method on this procedure with the hybrid style table saws & I'm not so sure I like what I am seeing. What they are doing is reaching way up inside & loosening (2) hex screws on the motors vertical shaft & turning the entire motor assy on this shaft until an aligned blade is achieved & retightening those hex screws. I'm inclined to think, over time, the motor will shift back on itself, back to its factory setting. About a week back now, I purchased the Delta 36-725 10" contractor table saw & I am gradually going through the calibration procedures on it. What I have found thus far using squares, combination squares & a dial indicator is that the blade has .004 runout @ 180°. Not bad for an initial factory set-up. I would like to get it to +- .001. The fence locks down parallel to the miter slot & is perpendicular to the table top & the left to right fence swing is set correctly from the factory, amazingly & is easily adj. with the Biesemeyer type of fence on this unit. Back to the blade again, rotating the blade 360° with the dial indicator set just below the kerf also verifies the .004 wobble in the blade as well as a feeler gauge set between the combination squares ruler & blade off the miter slot. What I haven't done yet is the procedure you are demonstrating here for blade straightness to the miter slot. This is probably the single most important thing that absolutely needs to be correct & is the " Achilles Heel " that most people are facing, myself incl. with very little information out there on this procedure. I hope to be pleasantly surprised to see your procedure in the Owner's Manual, however, I'm not holding my breath! Thank you for putting this out there, I'm now at least moving in the right direction I believe on the procedure... :-)
Great video, very informative without all the unnecessary parts - sanding - milling - etc. I like the way you added the extra shadow line on the panels with the cut on the front to keep thickness to 6 mil. I'm going to copy that on my next project with panels. I'm in agreement with your tip on making components to match the required dimensions in prior made parts, like you said - making all parts per preset dimensions is a sure way to achieve misfitting assemblies. Also like the honesty in showing your mistakes, good learning point for others, and you fix was smart.
I've used double-sided tape to stick new abrasive paper directly to the worn out piece, without removing it from the sander. It works ok and is quick. I'm also going to try glueing new paper onto the worn out pieces and leaving them to dry. Hopefully it'll work just as well, although it will require an overnight wait before the sheet can be used.
