@matthoward923 it turned out good. I got busy with things and kinda forgot about trying to make videos. I'm working on putting up a house now, hopefully when that's done I will make some more. Thanks for asking!
Ran one of those with a spreader box for puttoing down stone on a road job. STRONG machine! Piushed a trailer dump uphill in 3rd gear. Faked me out. Good old tractor. Keep after it.
I have no idea how you got that last rear-most bolt off. I have an 08 F-250. I could not under any circumstance even get a wrench or a socket on that last bolt. the valve cover is still on and will never come off. I am glad you were able to get yours
for me what I did is I got a little thin ole 1/4 drive rachet and short 12 and it was a tight fit but I cracked it loose n got it the rest of the way with my fingers
Is that a 14A? Dad sat on one of those for 18 years. Nothing sounds like a standard shift Cat. I grew up around the thing. It had twin stacks and I can still hear it pushing dirt!
For anyone else doing this you might want to check the harness itself for wear, that can cause the same symptoms. Thank you very much for the help brother!
The old pop or pup engine works great here. Most problems with the statrting engines stem from poor or no maintenence. Its nice to see a tilt dozer on the Old Girl. The amount of work the old Cats could do was impressive in the right hands. There is very little wassted motion here. my Caat hat is off to the operator. I grew up with a D69U, a D7 17A, two D84As, even an ancient D8 2U to pull the sheepsfoot. The last being my least favorite machine., being so slow with heavy controls and a dry clutch that might catch on fire. This old cat had a five gallon pails, (imperial gallons ) pails of water, gear oil and motor oil on board the operaters platform and needed them all.
Thank you so much for showing the ( Drott) working. At end when he pulled in with dipper and bucket. Very smoth operator doing the foot controls. Very nice running old excavator.
Ran one these for years! Hard to adjust without it running! Usally adjust cable control clutch just tight enough to watch drum for slight slack pickup! Adjust brake depending on operator, I liked it to release with slightest movement to lower blade! My brother was greatest at getting them adjusted perfectly! Usally in morning loosen clutch just a touch, then when warms up tighten back just a touch! They are very touchy on Clutch control! If brake or clutch to tight, they will heat up! If you tighten clutch and no slack pickup movement brake to tight! If you bump clutch to tight you can hear bands grinding trying to pickup blade against brake!
Better to have 2 people lol to set that lol I've set and built many a power unit on the old 619 scrapers because the guys the man I worked for only operated hyd controls and the tried to drag that level and you either bump it up and stop or down and stop and for God sake don't 2 block that tractor lol
I just replaced mine 6 months ago and I believe it’s gone bad again…. Noticed when I removed the sensor orifice had in oil it. Is that bad? Is that what could be making mine fail?
@@jds3545 my guess is it’s just working it’s way up the threads on the sensor and then into the orifice. Doesn’t appear to be a o ring on sensor or where it screws in.
I see you're pretty new at youtubing. And young with lots of energy. I hope your concrete pour went okay, I am a retired GC and have been in that situation many times, on much bigger projects.
Is that a Detroit or a Case engine in that? I think the majority of 40's had Case Diesels and a majority of 50'sHad Detroit's in them. The two 50's I ran had 6V53's in them . The newer 50, an 81 D model, had pilot controls and a turbo. Great machine.
When you weld on the Idler next time you should put your welder ground right on the Idler. You got lucky this time! You can easily ark burn a bearing this way!
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately my ground clamp wouldn't fit anywhere on the idler so I put it on the chain right next to it hoping it would ground through the chain and not the bearings.
I bet Squatch253 would love being there to watch that old beast working hard after so many decades since it's steel was first poured. He's the top dog reparing and restoring old Cat dozers and tractors. I'd like to know the year this one was made.
@@jds3545. And it's still going strong on the job. Most built today have almost no chance of lasting that long. The tilt blade definitely makes a difference.
Pacific Hillbilly is piece by piece sindlehandedly restoring a D4.. Very interesting series. His next endevor is an excavator he picked up. Both to rebuild and add to his duck / fishing pond I've no doubt his little ones will be swimming in.
my father had D6 8u cable machines and with his dozer that had a bull blade he mounted scarifier tynes facing backwards onto the back of the blade, they were pined at the top and folded up by themselves as you pushed forward , you could still back blade dirt just by moving forward just a little bit so they folded up. but if you wanted to loosen up ground in the cut you could back blade with the tynes and brake up about 8" of ground that you just ran over in the previous push on the return to the start of the cut. he had 6 tynes hanging down behind the blade. it didn't give any trouble or damage anything for the 45 years they were on their. it made a big difference just having that little bit of ground breakage for the way and the amount of dirt it could push with out having to get something else to rip or back when he first started driving dozer's having to connect a trailering cable ripper to drawbar and run and attached the cable from the second drum out of the winch. he said that it was a 30min job just to do that. he never did it again after fitting the scarifier tynes onto that machine.
I love hearing about the things people did back then. Thanks for sharing! I have thought about making something like that for mine but the little bit I use it doesn't justify the effort in my mind.
