Cliff brand jacks are one, and there are other versions as well. There are also plastic insulators that you can buy to use on metal jacks. I get my jacks from Antique Electronics Supply. Tube Depot has them as well.

I did not make that schematic, and it is incorrect in that orientation, so good catch. This is why I warn several times in my videos to NOT just grab any schematic on the web. If you do get one from the web, be sure to do some proofing, and checking of other schematics to ensure things are good.

I run it underneath. I find things look cleaner that way.

I am not a fan of it. I never quite understood the reasoning for it other than it would be easier to solder to than the steel chassis.

The Dale Vishay resistors can be found at Digikey, or at Tube Depot. I get them from Tube Depot. They are rated for 1 watt below a certain temperature, and are advertised as 1/2 watt though. 1/2 watt is more than enough for 90% of the amp though. The only reason to go up in wattage for most parts of the amp is to lower the noise floor. In the case of metal film, the noise floor is considerably lower than carbon film, and extremely low compared to carbon composition.

I am not a fan of CC resistors and therfore do not use them. As I mention in a few video's, there are those that swear on their grandmother's grave that they are god's gift to tone. I have no argument to that belief, and encourage builders to just use what they want to use. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

This particular amp is cathode biased, so the grid leak is not exactly part of the bias circuit per-se, such as a fixed bias amp would be. The grid leak is a required part of any tube circuit regardless of function. It serves as the reference for the grid to ground, and acts more or less as a volume control and as a load to the preceeding stage. A voltage is formed around this resistor, and one could call it bias, as it does serve this function to a degree. In the case of a fixed bias stage, the grid leak really only provides a reference point, controls current flow and keeps the bias under control. It cannot be too large, or the bias will " run away " within the tube, and it cannot be too small, or the tube will shut off and no longer conduct. In a cathode biased stage, the difference between ground for the cathode and the grid is what creates the bias. This is in relation to the plate voltage of course. Change the plate voltage, and the bias will shift along with the operating point of the tube. It si all about creating a " window ". There is an area, where this window works best, given the plate voltage you are working with.

Keep in mind the reasoning. It is a hard sell to place a radial, where an axial works best, and to a buyer that wants contemporary parts in their boutique build. I leave you with the knowing that there is a better option, not that you MUST use F&T. I'm not selling anything, so you can use what you please. You take the keys and do as you will.

Thank you!! Far from the best data source here, but it gets your feet wet enough to feel like you can do this. Getting in there and doing it is the important part. The math and other technical stuff comes later, when you are literally trying to split a hair.

There are a LOT of weird rules in the code books. I am not sure the application of that particular code would apply to guitar amps however. It is conceivable, based on what you say, that every Fender, Hiwatt, VOX, and Marshall ( among MANY other brands ) from the beginning of time, to even recently, are illegal to operate and resale. Most all used sub 20awg wire for many parts of the amp. Just based on the context of that last sentance, wire smaller than 20awg could not be sold. Practical application of a code is one thing, but applying it to the letter is another. Thank you for providing a commentary though. I would like to see the references to this code you speak of. Perhaps I am misunderstanding what you meant? I'm open to discussion about it. I just don't see how anything could adhere to this code however. It is easy to imagine an electrical device that has minimal current demand of a wire that is 22awg or smaller, has more than 6" of wire length, and the wire is routed in the chassis in such a way it may as well be part of it.

There's a pdf that outlines how to build a trainwreck express. On amp garage. It has some very good grounding recommendations. Worth while reading for sure

The bean counters are always a factor when it comes to corporate amp companies. This is why I don’t consider Morgan, Two-Rock Etc. to be boutique. The plastic “ Cliff “ and similar styles are not exactly cheap, and neither are Neutrik and Switchcraft. When it comes to grounding, many builders simply just don’t apply best practices, or schemes. I am no exception, however where I feel I differ is that I use a scheme that is practical, and does not hinder performance, cost is not my concern though. $1 more for a part is meaningless for me. I’m not building a thousand amps though, so I don’t have to worry about the overhead. The big guys do have to consider what that extra cost will be though. In an amp with 100+ parts every penny counts. If I say my amp is $3k, it is because it costs $3k after parts and my time. When Two-Rock sells a $4k amp, they built it for 1/3rd that cost. The rest is markup and operating costs to keep Two-Rock in your minds eye. As an example.

Δεν υπάρχει τίποτα ιδιαίτερο στον ενισχυτή Mullard 5-10 που να χωρίζει από οποιονδήποτε άλλο ενισχυτή. Έτσι, θα μπορούσατε σίγουρα να το χρησιμοποιήσετε με οποιονδήποτε επιθυμητό προενισχυτή. Το τμήμα του ενισχυτή ισχύος χρησιμοποιεί απλά ανεξάρτητα καλύμματα παράκαμψης καθόδου και αντιστάσεις πόλωσης. Θα μπορούσατε να το κάνετε αυτό και με άλλες κατασκευές μεροληψίας καθόδου. Το Mullard 5-10 είναι μια ανερχόμενη τοπολογία ενισχυτή κιθάρας νομίζω. Υπάρχουν πολλά νήματα που μιλούν για αυτό ως σημείο άλματος ενισχυτή κιθάρας. Αυτό μεταφράστηκε με το Google Translate, οπότε ελπίζω να έχει νόημα?

I tried some Vishay's recently, I was not a fan. They are cheaper wich is nice, but I didn't find any reason to switch.

I could I suppose, but I don't mind it the way it is.

It can pop, it can take out the cap, it can take out the Rectifier tube. I woudl hardwaire the standby switch to be on, or stop using it. The standby switch is not needed on amps witha rectifier tube.

Yes, as best as I can tell. The metering on teh back o fteh amp module is not graded though, so I would not rely on it for reference.

Thank you! Will do!

The masturbators have money though... Most builders I believe are genuine, but there are a few that irk me a little. I am not really worried about selling amps, i just want to make great amps at a reasonable price.

I'm sure it could, but I have not seen it as an issue with amps that use copper bus wire.