Subscribe to my RU-vid Channel for upcoming do it yourself auto repairs videos. As our channel grows, so will the excitement!
If there's a car repair video you would like to see, hit me up, and we'll see what we can do about getting it done. Let's engage: like, dislike, share and/or comment on the videos on this channel, let's make this fun for everyone!
The videos posted are meant to help you understand how to complete specific tasks on your vehicle at home, and in your own work space. As we progress, you will learn tips and tricks that I've learned along the way that may help you in your projects.
Until next time, don't be afraid to get your hands dirty!
Mark Earl (TMEx) - Concepts. ˈPolymath - /pälēˌmaTH/, ✌😎 All productions are original content from the creator - Mark Earl - TMEx Labour of love 🎼 🎵 🎶
Record Label: Jackall Records Distribution Company: TuneCore Bare Bones Production
STAY TUNED for Big Ugly, Vader and Hot Mess! Check Instagram for photo updates!
Does the ground strap have to be bolted to the original spot behind the intake, or can you bolt it to an easier location and have it work correctly? I will never be able to get my hand back there.
@@mitchellmontesano8769 it's always best to bolt it in the same spot, but if you find another spot on the back of the head to bolt the ground, you could try that - but nowhere near the manifold, you might get ground noise. I know it's a tough spot, a helper with smaller hands might be best
I totally agree, mind you I needed two hands and had limited options to place the cellphone. One end bolts to the firewall on the driver's side, the other end attaches to the back of the head near the intake on the driver's side. If I recall, it was a 14mm bolt. I used both a short socket and a ratchet wrench to successfully take it out. To install it, I had to ziptie the wires together to help with bolting it back on. If you have a helper with small hands, that would also help, it's tight back there.
Where does the ground strap go to in the engine bay? I see the wire disappears behind the engine bay but you did not show where. Would love to see a video about this because it seems like a damned mystery. I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe.
The camera didn't fit back there when recording. It bolts to the back of the cylinder head. If the wire is broken, you should feel the nub at the back, if it's not, follow the wire. It's a darn tough spot to get your hands into, and it will take a lot of patience to successfully complete the job.
I have a 2001 gmc Sonoma and if your standing in front of the engine it’s located on the back left side by firewall , where does this ground strap connect to ?? The engine or what ??
It should be bolted to the back of the cylinder head. Could use a mirror to see if you can locate where the strap is bolted to on the Sonoma if you can't see it.
Do you know the part number for the latch closest to the back of the car. I don't need the front latch, but I do need to replace the rear latch, and I am struggling to find the correct part. I need the drivers side sliding door rear latch. Thank you for any help.
This links to the Mazda parts system for the sliding door parts list. Hope that helps. www.realmazdaparts.com/v-2014-mazda-5--sport--2-5l-l4-gas/body--door-hardware
The issue we had is opposite, in that it wouldn’t close. If your door is jammed shut, or won’t unlock, you might find a way to take the panel off from inside and get to the mechanism, or use a flathead in the door jam from inside to try and pry it to open while someone pulls on the handle from the outside. Also, you might try and lubricate the crap out of the door jam from inside, if it’s the door jam then it should open from there. Either way, it could be a two man job, one pulling the handle on the outside, while the other is working the door jam inside. Good luck
I have a ground strap going to the hood on my 2006 Sierra. The nut apparently fell off and the strap is just dangling. Any idea what size nut that would be?
I usually take a trip to the wreckers with a list of odds and ends and pull them nuts and bolts from similar vehicles. I find it easier than trying to match it up at the hardware store.
Some of those lifters get stuck (suction) - grabbing them was a little difficult because of oil. A rag on the lifter to grab them helped - some needed a little twist and lift as well. Hopefully the rest goes well for you.
Splines on the bearing hubs are different from the G5 to the Cobalt SS w/Brembos. Even if it's the G5 GT w/FE3 suspension, there may be some interchangeable parts, however you'd still have an issue with the tranny having different axles - Cobalt SS Turbo has the F35 trans. That said, it all depends how much you're willing to throw at it - i'm reading up to $4k on a swap? Bearing hubs Axles Spindles Struts possibly I would definitely do more research before buying parts. Good luck!
What is that silver tube with the green rubber sleeve on it around 3:00 minutes in? Mine is leaking some sort of liquid that burns your skin and I can't find anything about it online
That's the tube for the passenger side e-brake cable. I know salt builds up and hardens in that area. If there liquid around there, it's either your moonroof is leaking (if you have one), or water's coming in from somewhere and mixing with it. If it's leaking down from the moonroof, it's time to unclog the drain tubes, which the drain flaps are under the front fender wells and can be accessed just by turning the wheels outward for each side.
This video definitely helps but also this spot is so tight. I haven't been successful in reaching and changing it. any tips/tricks would be nice, I know he mention having that 15mm deep socket and a long shaft wrench combo. maybe not having that is hindering me.
That’s the only thing that I could figure out to get the bolt back on - I also had to tie the ground to the bolt as it kept slipping off - it’s definitely a difficult spot.
My brake lines on the Avalanche were rotted at the abs control module, I had to replace them - I don’t know of any ground issues causing brake failure, however, if anyone does, they are free to chime in.
@@TMEx_GearstoGrind and what issues does the other ground strap causes? because my cluster lights would dim sometimes at night and my truck dies if i dont drive it for a while
@madwestboy have you checked your battery, possibly a loose cable or it could be weak? A vehicle sitting too long without starting it once and awhile could kill it. Charging the battery could help if it isn’t too old. I normally start a sitting vehicle once a week, and take it around the block. Another thing is that if you know you wont use the vehicle for awhile, pull the battery out and store it indoors if possible.
@@TMEx_GearstoGrind my battery is brand new and my mechanic thinks something is drawing power from the battery while the truck is off. This is in my 05 Denali, I have an 07 Denali but don't drive it because of a bad head gasket. Even tho I haven't driven the 07 in months it cranks up with no problem
@@madwestboy With a multimeter, you can check for parasitic battery drain. In my Iroc, it was the power antenna. I found this video helpful ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zdIKNnwEjIs.html to test parasitic battery drain. You could also check the ground straps connected to the frame under the driver’s side behind the front tire by the door - mine were rusted on the Avalanche, so I did some preventative maintenance and cleaned them up. There’s also a ground strap behind the driver’s side cylinder head, which connects to the firewall, that’s the fat one that located near the hood ground strap.
I recorded it with my cell phone. It’s a tight spot to get into behind the engine. I used the ratchet with a short socket to crack the bolt at the back, then used a ratchet wrench to take it out. To put it back it in I placed the wires on the bolt and carefully treaded the bolt back in place, then used the wrench to tighten the bolt - once the bolt was on, I used the ratchet with the short socket to lock it into place. Good luck!
I have a 03 yukon and I recently changed the intake manifolds and seemed to pulled a ground the one I pulled was the one you have connected to your hood and my speedometer doesn’t work it lights up but doesn’t move wondering if all I need is a new cable and just ground to hood to fix it?
Based on my research, I’ll be replacing the stepper motor located in the speedometer cluster, as my speedometer is currently not working. I replaced both of grounds that you mentioned - the one behind the intake is the engine ground strap, and the one that connects to the hood is for radio ground signal. The first thing I did was replace the speedometer sensor, but that did not get the speedometer to work. The speed sensor is easier and cheaper to replace, but these vehicles are notorious for electronic issues, including the speedometer, and the usual fix is the stepper motor. I’ll post a video on that once I can get to it. I found this video on replacing the stepper motor - good luck, keep me posted - cheers! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mFApzUn5UZA.html
I just bought a nice '04 Z71 Suburban which the speedometer didn't work. Just needed dash cluster rebuilt same as my Impala years ago when gas gage went erractic. Nothing unusual. Now I'm cleaning all the grounds. After learning about the small, black/white stripe ground wire attaching to back of pass. head I felt for it back there. Seemed ok but next time I went to start dash gages were goofy and it wouldn't crank over. Headlights were bright. Didn't touch anything and next day it started fine. I probably disrupted a bad connection but will extend it to firewall ground bolt next to the hood ground strap that is broke off. All grounds must be grounded as shown in this great video.
I broke 2 bolts off on my 1998 318ti m44 @ the 7.5lbs ft tq setting. 24+ year old bolts so be careful. Had to buy an extractor set at harbor freight($9-10) and was able to get them out (the left handed bits were able to get it done and I didn't need to use the other specialized bits). The bolts are small and it's a nightmare trying to not hit the threads. One also didn't break off in a clean horizontal pattern (it was around a 20deg cut). Bolts were not sold locally @ BMW and are around $12 a piece online. $100+ for a set. I broke one in the middle and one right where the coil pack sits (very hard to fit a drill there to get that one out).
It bolts to the back of the engine block - there are other ground wires bolted there. So when you find the bolt with ground wires bolted in, which is near the center of the block by the firewall, closer to the driver’s side, that’s where it bolts in. It’s a 15-16mm bolt. Based on what I went through, the best way you get at it is with a ratchet wrench - it’ll be very tight to get a socket back there.
The car was an ‘06, and I believe the sensor is in the seat. The battery was disconnected when I unplugged everything. If the sensor light is on, you can either get an air bag scanner and reset the air bag sensors, or have the dealer recalibrate them afterward.
It was windy out that day, and my cell phone was on the fritz. I might revised the audio once I get a new video studio program. My hands are tied at the moment.
When I turn my key my Silverado won't crank. The headlights, radio and headlights work fine nothing dims I need help. The only ground I found loose was the one connected to the rack and pinion
You might have access by removing the cowl panel. I found a video that could help you remove it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s0b6oqTkFNY.html
I replaced them before selling it- they were a little rough and the pins were seized. I just picked up a “new” one. Blown motor, more Cobalt SS Turbo vids to come, stay tuned!
Whatever works, do that. I used a combination of a 15mm deep socket and a long shaft wrench. It’s a tough spot to get in to, unless you can get small hands back there.
Agreed, and I do appreciate the feedback. Replaced the iPhone since, which should improve in upcoming videos. The wind was also working against it, but regardless, I felt the video might help. Cheers!
I don’t understand why they did this. With my 01 eclipse it was 3 bolts and the headlight housing was out it was so easy. But now I got a 4g and I have to do this to change the bulbs to leds what the fuck.
