Thank you for the video. I cannot figure out how to connect 1 1/2-inch conduit to 1 inch conduit body using a reducer or a reducer busing. I am wondering if you have an example that you can share.
Usually don’t comment on here, even less often on these types of videos, BUT! With this tip, I have to drop in and say thanks for the video and the tip!
Really good video, simple, well presented. I might add that with all the homeruns for circuits say in the kitchen and surrounds, viewers might consider a subpanel to facilitate the latter. Plus, you have circuits for washer/dryer, furnace (even if gas), etc., to think about in a general plan. Wired a home I built 20 years ago with a guy mentoring me. Getting into a new project, but a remodel of an entire home, not new construction. This video is a good refresher.
I'm DYI hack and i had to replace a GFCI outlet in my kitchen. The wire in the outlet box is stranded and i struggled to form it around the terminal screws without breaking the strands. I have two other GFCI outlets to replace and will use your suggestion next time. I was going buy some fork terminals, but this sounds like a better and cheaper method. Thanks for the tip. 😊
All i needed to see.... Damn old house has 2 hot wires and ground no neutral... So it's up to code as long as you use a 3 prong cord... But you have to use a 3 prong outlet... They wired it to a 4 prong outlet, I just wanted to double check before i replaced it with the same one you have... Thanks for the video...
I've noticed some of the comments confusing neutral and ground, here's some interesting facts. A dryer is a 120/240 V appliance, the heating element runs off 240v, the timer, motor, electronic controls on many of the newest dryers, and the drum light (if equipped) run off 120V. Therefore the "ground" in that 10/2 NM is acting as a neutral. On the back of the dryer where the cord connects, there is a strap or jumper wire that connects the chassis to neutral, as sort of a "legal bootleg ground" In the old days, before the 1996 NEC, the standard for dryers was a NEMA 10-30 receptacle, 120/240V nongrounding, 30A.(hot - hot - neutral) The neutral was also used to ground the chassis. The codes of the day required the neutral to be insulated, or may be bare if part of a SE cable assembly, and shall be minimum 10 awg, and the circuit shall originate from service equipment, meaning the main panel, it was not allowed to be fed from a subpanel. 10/2 NM using the ground as a bare neutral was never allowed per the NEC, however I've seen it a handful of times doing renovations in homes built in the 70s and 80s, and older electricians who were in the trade when 3 wire dryer and ranges were acceptable, who I've talked to, say they've worked in jurisdictions where the inspector aka Authority Having Jurisdiction, allowed for the used of 10/2 and 8/2 or 6/2 with the ground serving as neutral, for dryers and 40 or 50 amp ranges respectively, likely on the theory the neutral in SEU cable is bare, so the ground in 2 wire NM cable is no different. Existing installations are permitted to remain in service, but if you modify the circuit in any way, such as relocating the receptacle on the opposite wall during a renovation, the circuit is now considered a new installation, and therefore must be brought up to current codes, so a 3 wire plus ground cable must be ran, with a 4 prong outlet, and the strap or jumper wire connecting the chassis to neutral on the dryer or range must be removed 2 wire plus ground cable is allowed for appliances that require 240 volts only, such as a water heater, baseboard heater, or central air conditioner/heat pump. In this situation the white wire must be re-coded as a hot, with a piece of black or red tape at the receptacle/appliance and breaker panel, as well as the junction box if the cable was spliced along the way. Hope this was helpful and clears any confusion.
I would’ve left the wire jacket on the end a bit longer, like 1” and then taped that to the wire to prevent it from slipping off. Same length on the copper, but longer jacket sleeve. Hell just solder the tips of the wire😂
This may sound ridiculous, but…. The best way to loosen a new pair of kleins (aka lineman’s, Nines, Side cutters, hammer) that I have found is to sprinkle a little bit of clean white play sand into the backside of the head where the handles meet the head of the pliers, and then just pull them open and force them closed, repeat this until they’re loose. You’ll know they’re loose enough to not inflict carpal tunnel when you can toss them in the air in a flipping/spinning motion and they’ll clap open and closed repeatedly as they rotate. When they’re loose enough use a can of compressed air or an air compressor to shoot any sand out of the hinge that hasn’t already made its way out. You can finish them off with a bit of silicone spray lube or just a couple drops of motor oil. DONT USE WD-40, I repeat, DONT NOT USE WD-40 on your kleins. WD-40 stands for water displacement number 40 (the 40th formula that the Iver Norman Lawson tried), basically WD-40 is flat out NOT a lubricant, it was designed to repel water and as a penetrating formula for stuck bolts. In my experience it actually ends up promoting rust and attracting dirt on my hand tools. All that said, I prefer to work smart not hard so I just started buying Knipex lineman’s which come already loose from the factory. Check out Knipex 09 12 240 9-1/2 in. Ultra-High Leverage Lineman's Pliers with Fish Tape Puller, Crimper and Tether Attachment. Best $50 you’ll ever spend, I promise!
They didn’t exist when this video was made, but Leviton makes outlets with a lever connection similar to Wago connectors which handle stranded wire just fine.
My GE remote fan lasted 4 years before the remote receiver went out. Ill never buy a remote fan again. LEDs are shitty light and also the reliability of the remote control kinda sucked. Id rather do a Wifi Wall Switch on a regular fan.
Can you please show how to connect conduit adapter on the box? Why don’t we make hole in the box and directly attach the pvc conduit. What’s the problem? Thanks
Please,please use a hooked trimming knife, Stanley 0-11-983. Anchor the cable so you can pull the knife toward you. Pick a spot to dig in right next to a wire. Once you dig in, pull in deep. The blade will slide along the wire without nicking it. Use same technique to strip out all the wires. So easy and safe.
The silver compression connector wasn’t rain tight. That was just a normal compression connector there was no rubber gasket. And rain tights are either blue or black
What is the best conduit for 3 independent circuits in the same conduit ? Indoor, I will need a jonction box to output one of the 3 circuits. The two others go in the same direction. One will be an indoor outlet the other one will be an outdoor outlet. 2 x 15 amps + 1 x 20 amps or 1 x 15 amps + 2 x 20 amps
