Recessed leds these days are probably about a half an amp. Cover multiple rooms with 15 amp light circuites and 20 for recepticals. Even if you did have all 15 amp circuites. Its best to seperate light and plug circuites incase either one ever goes out you still have one live Circuit in the room. So you still have either lights or recepticals likely to have a lamp pluged in.
Thank you so much for all this information. This is the first video I came across that explained so much for me as I am trying to draw out my own plans on my own and am scouring the internet for direction.
Awesome explanation of feeds and circuits. You made it easy to understand and kept the drawings simple yet realistic for residential wiring. Thank you.
Really good video, simple, well presented. I might add that with all the homeruns for circuits say in the kitchen and surrounds, viewers might consider a subpanel to facilitate the latter. Plus, you have circuits for washer/dryer, furnace (even if gas), etc., to think about in a general plan. Wired a home I built 20 years ago with a guy mentoring me. Getting into a new project, but a remodel of an entire home, not new construction. This video is a good refresher.
Excellent video. Way better than these other videos with the fancy. Introduction and professionalism-ish looking type of acting. This is a no bullshit, linear delivered information. This video was 100% made by a man who knows what he’s doing. I’m not trying to brag on you. It’s just I get so frustrated with having to listen to people talk about their goal. Crap before you can actually get what you need to know“problem with the transmission is there’s this button and before I get to the button I’m gonna tell you about how we got the car how long we’ve had the car when cI get painted again when my sister borrowed that one time… “Yeah yeah yeah fine
NEC requirements for general lighting and receptacle load is 3 va a sq. ft. 2000 sq. ft. house x 3 VA= 6000 VA /120 Volts =50 Amps/ 20 amp cir= 2.5. all general use lighting and receptacles can be ran off of 3 20 amp circuits.
Kool man, i started as a helper electrician (comercial) in Ag/2017 and i were a month in residential line, and i liked it both, i am still learning, and i liked ur video, Thank u so much for sharing ur skills
Nice video. Thanks. I always run separate lighting and electrical circuits, and I use 14-2 wire. 12-2 wire runs costs too high when you're wiring several thousand square feet. I also use 14-3 to make my home run for the dishwasher and the disposal. I'm a new subscriber to your channel.
Why 1473 for dw and disposal? Also, what country are you in? Here we aren't able to use 14 only, because select circuits are required to be 20 amp ( US)
@@joncrosby8988 hi John. Sorry I'm only just realizing that you asked this question. So I live in North Carolina and all receptacles in kitchens must be on at least 2 seperate 20 amp GFCI protected circuits, EXCEPT, the dishwasher and the disposal which may be on 15 amp circuits. So I pull one cable of 14/3 wire from the panel. I install a 15 amp breaker on the black and the same on the red wire. Then in the kitchen I seperate the two hot wires and put them on switches, one switch for the disposal and one for the dishwasher.
Gotcha. I never considered a switch on dw but that's what allows for the single cable. I guess proximity to box , access and other factors determine if that's more practical...I'm nit an electrician but I guess you usually have 3wire left over from 3ways.
@@keatonbyron3328 I misunderstood ; I read your comment to mean you don't use 12/2 at all, but obv you meant that you only use it on the 20s, and use 14ga on lighting and other 15 amp curcuuts
@@keatonbyron3328 I am not an electrician, I don’t understand how those two circuits can use a common neutral. What allows you to use 14/3 in that case? If you can use 14/3 in that case, why couldn’t you use 14/3 for other general purpose outlets.
Nicely done. I like to use 12 ga for everything you mentioned except 14 ga for switch loops. Also like to separate outlets from lights...thinking that if a receptacle trips the breaker, you don't have to fumble in the dark because the lights were on the same breaker. One 3-wire cable to fan/light and then I use a double switch on the wall.
Seems the 80% rule is out on the bedroom example.... on a 20a breaker the continuous load shouldn't be more than 16a..... which at 1.5a per device would be 11..... I also do not mix lighting and receptacles for the same reason.... I do know that at one time the likelyhood of all devices being used is low, but the calculations should be to cover that
Are you saying to have homerun wire to switch them seperat homerun wire for outlets? I ask because I'm about to start running wire to a bedroom and I'm not an election
14 ga for switch loops? That means your whole circuit is rated for 15 amps. Therefore, using 12 ga for the rest is a waist of money. Also, you can only use a 15 amp breaker.
HOLY MOTHER OF BABY JESUS! Was that so hard? Was it? THANK YOU SIR. . . I'VE BEEN trying to find this exact video for weeks. You sir desires a steak dinner some time off for hunting or what ever you do, I'm a disabled VET that has half a shell of a house from what i can tell (sub-termites) so in process of fixing this. I found everything was wrong. Fyi Knob and tube wiring
Also cast iron going into ground, leveling house, redid water lines, every floor in house has to get done 7 rooms tiny hallway that's 7 counting every room kitch, bath, bed etc. . . An if you know anything about VA THEY DON'T PAY US enough. 😥😾😢😂 One day at a time and one construction DUMPSTER dive 4 free materials at a time.
Great video in explaining the rules as the apply to dedicated lines. Does a tankless water heater require a dedicated line? Are these codes applicable to the state of California?
hello, i worked in remodeling construction years ago, and now i'm looking to brush up on things so i can rewire my new house (it's actually quite old)...
Hi! In EU we have to multiply a constant 0,7 or 0,5 if the Mcb total up to 5 if more we just multiple by 0,7 to make sure that it's impossible to plug all sockets in simultaneously, which is preventing you for overloading and heating of cables
Thank you for doing the video! Easy to understand. I'm a newbie, but wouldn't 2 loads in the ceiling fan (light and motor) put you over your 20 amp limit? Thanks again.
If the breaker trips you have a bigger problem than the lights going out. When you do separate them you're more likely overload an outlet circuit, and your panel schedules are trash. I've wired over 300 custom homes, and I've never had a customer complaint or failed an inspection due to the outlets and lighting sharing a circuit.
@@S33Electrical why are you more likely to overload an outlet circuit? Is the assumption that the outlet circuit would be shared between rooms? And similar with the lighting circuit?
@@VeloSol The lighting circuit is a stable load, meaning unless you change the wattage of your bulbs it will always draw the same amount of current. The outlets on the other hand the current draw changes depending on what you have plugged in the outlet, portable heater, vacuum cleaner ect...
@@AmericanOne9621 makes sense but I read what S33 Electrical had said as: separating outlet/receptacle and lighting circuits to separate breakers makes it more likely that you'll blow the outlet breaker. That's what wasn't adding up to me, a stable lighting load on a breaker should basically never trip unless you drastically change luminaire wattage. If you have other outlets (receptacles) on the circuit with the lighting load then there is less current available for the receptacles because of the base lighting load so why not split the receptacles off to their own breaker? In other words I don't see how separating lighting to one breaker and receptacles to another makes it more likely for the outlet breaker to trip than if the same space shared lighting and receptacles on a single breaker. That's how I understood the original reply and I figure I must be missing something.
Great video, presentation and content. When speaking of requirements like "outlet must be within 6' of the door", would you share the overall governing source containing the requirements e.g. International Building Code or National Electrical Code in your references. Thank you for a great video. Regards.
Code differs place to place. Check your city/state’s website to find electrical code. Also, GFI or GFCI Outlets would be ideal for wet locations like bathrooms and laundry rooms. Again check your city and state code before proceeding.
you have to stay in the safe zone of your ampacity no? which is ~75-80% of your total amps depends who you ask. 18 amps is 90% of 20 so would you have to split the circuit into 2 circuits?
What happens at the first receptacle and the run for the recessed lights? Is that a junction box or are you running off the first receptacle from the home run? Thanks!
Hello my name is Jim, your diagram is very helpful to me. My home is severely damaged by wind. I lost the roof and after that the house was flooded with the rain. Right now the house is gutted and I’m ready to start the rebuild process. I had all my plumbing redone and brought up to code. Now I’m ready to start the Ruffin electrical work. I’m having a very difficult time finding Electrician. So I’m gonna try to do it myself. I’m aware of the 612 rule. I’m gonna try to draw the diagrams for the bedroom. And the kitchen. What kind of wire do I need for the outlets. And the lights.
Let me see if I have this correct, in the first room example: At A1, the home run will have: 4 Line pigtails (3 to each switch and 1 to outlet), 1 Neutral pigtail (to outlet) and 3 load pigtails (2 lights and 1 fan) and all grounds tied together?
Yea pretty much...cutting in this switch I’d go grounds 1st ( need 3) neu. 2nd ( all whites.) 3rd make my power leads with all my power in/outs (black wires) 4th , Before I began ..I took all my legs and put a little loop at the end to identify them later).
Thanks for the video, it was a really neat way of showing information. I do have a question, a single 20 amp circuit specifically and only for a garbage disposal seems like massive overkill to me, could you explain why I am mistaken?
it's a big-ass electric motor that pulls even more juice when you pour solids down into it and it has to work harder. you also wouldn't want that competing with a fridge when the compressor kicks on.
@@WESTCOAST805SPARKYI don’t believe that’s a code violation. The receptacle is just rated for higher amps. The 15 amp breaker protects the conductors from damage.
technically you can't run all those on a 20 amp breaker considering that you need a .80 percent deduction for safety measures which would bring it down to 16 amps.
I have a room that has 1 switch. This switch controls one outlet (for lamps) on the wall. Could you diagram this? Im trying to change to 2 switches (1 ceiling fan light + 1 ceiling fan motor), and detach wall outlet from switch. Understanding current diagram would help me.
These R inside the circles are the ceiling lights control by just a single switch? :/ I am Civil Engineer but now learning electrical designing. It is very interesting to watch..!!
Hey man I’ve been following your channel for awhile and I’ve decided that I want to become an electrician. Can you do a video with tips or what I should do to have the best chance for a apprentice or helper job, since I have no electrical experience. I do have 4 years construction experience
I’m new to electricity and still learning, but wouldn’t wiring the outlets and lights in series divide the voltage throughout? Why is this not a problem?
No issue. Connecting in series would allow for the same current to flow through all receptacles, etc...you will get a small voltage drop across each of the resistances
I have an older house built in 60's. I have 3 20amp circuits and 2 240amp circuits. I don't have space on the panel to run additional circuits. Is there a method to combine appliances on fewer circuits?
In Parker, Texas, building code specifies compliance with NEC 1999 and in our home built in 2012, every one of our bedrooms are on 20amp circuits and include all outlets and the lights. Same for game room, office, dining room. Your municipality might be different.
Lee Campbell I don’t disagree, but I’m on my third house in TX and they are all wired the same, as were both of my brother-in-law’s. I’m sure they do it this way simply because it’s cheaper.
@@tporter23 SAD , too bad they didn't consider this option B 4 wiring Bathroom . I'm poor myself , but you won't see me do that . I'll turn down the work first .
@@leecampbell5232 Actually now that I think about it: the main line from the breaker first comes into each bedroom at the lightswitch box. So the lights are always on even if we trip a GFCI in a bathroom. But in our other bedrooms, yes, if the circuit breaker for the room's circuit pops, yes, you're in the dark. Not so in the kitchen where it is code to have lights on a separate circuit from the outlets.
Plug Spacing = Distance between receptacles Outlet = Receptacle There is no measure of amps per device in residential dwellings in the NEC. That's just how I do it.
S33 Electrical Just want you to be very careful with terms. Especially since you call yourself S33 Electrical. It is receptacle spacing. Receptacles are part of a receptacle outlet but, not part of a light outlet. Correct on amps per receptacle. Commercial not dwelling. Dwelling is minimum circuits required according to square footage. I would never do minimum. If you ever need something explained or NEC explained, I would help you. Respectfully, Kevin. PS, feel free to delete my comments if you so desire.
you"ve put 12 devices on one 20 amp breaker with #12 wire. you cant do that. the 1.5 amps per is correct. it comes up to 18. you have to keep it within 80% due to code. which is 10 devices per 20 amp breaker. figure your devices at no more than 10 per 20 amp breaker to stay within code. cant go past 16 amps on a 20 amp breaker with branch circuitry.
This is totally false. The national electric code does not dictate how many receptacles are on a single circuit and the only place it talks about 80% is when it comes to continuous loads
80 % applies IF you are derating conductors . That is only necessary if you are operating a circuit continually for 3 hours or longer , or you are dealing with a circuit feeding a motor load that is cycled more than five times per hour . Heating circuits should be calculated for derating as needed .
greg berban The 80% you are talking about is the breaker raising for continuous loads. Check your NEC. There is a section that tells you exactly how many receptacles can be installed on different branch circuits. The 1.5 amperes is considered non-continuous, and can be connected up to the 15 or 20 ampere ratings. I'm not saying you should, just that you can.
