That's meee man that was a killer demo bro you can tell you have put in a lot of work I recommend getting a demo from you to everyone I have been talking about it all weekend bro it was a blast
Slamming demo yesterday bro I had a great time at my first show you were my first demo of a big system in my life that setup is a monster FRFR had a great time bro
@@SlamryCamry19 I appreciate it bro. I just clicked on your name to put a face with it. You should have mentioned your name. You’ve commented enough for me to remember it haha
@@808patanderson I would have but it was my first show and I didn't want to be the bothersome new guy I had a million questions for you experienced guys but I am definitely going to be hitting the shows as much as possible trying to learn how to build a 6th order in my car and kinda need help with it so I am going to try to join a team and learn from the others how to do everything I had a great time though you were my first EVER big demo I hope I'm as loud as you one day
I just finished making that same bank. It is reading 15.39 volts. Would I be ok to hook it up as is without charging? My alternator is set at 15.5 volts
@@guwop3310 the “correct” thing to do is slow charge it to match your cars voltage but being that close id just put it in. But still if you built one of these batteries then you NEED a charger like this period. It’s good to slow charge them up from time to time or if you left something on and drained it down then it needs to be slow charged back up. Quick charging with an alternator will damage the cells over time. My buddy just left his truck on and it dropped to 4.6 volts so I charged it back up with this at charger at 5 amps and it’s doing just fine.
For interrior i like to use duplicolor rattle can. It has a smoth texture that matches the oem texture pretty well. (not chunky) Hav you tried to turn the sub backwards facing the wall?
since you have so much money in this system please do yourself a huuge favor and get rid of the priv dsp and switch it out for a helix dsp the difference will be miles!!
Этим динамикам можно ввалить мощности раза в 4 больше. Усилитель который вы используете микросхемный то есть на одном кристале и подводимая мощность врядли превышает 80 ватт. А саб ваш легко справиться с 500 ваттами, для этого нужен усилитель 1500 ватт. А для верхних динамиков нужно полосу порезать процессором от 100 герц и запитать их от усилителя 400 ватт типа icepower125х2 включенным в мост. Будет звучать так что даже страшно станет.
Yeah the Sylvester series can get really loud. Just 3 pairs in my 2 door car is plenty, maybe even too much at times because the actual midrange can be heard blocks away. Im just working on adding tweeters back in, but Deaf Bonce is out of stock of the smaller sized super tweeters that I need.
@@808patanderson they sure are. I have one pair hooked up, and I do like them. Hopefully they can restock them, I wanted another 3-4 pairs for both cars.
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I listen with a Bluetooth speaker for RU-vid. Sounds great. Besides the wood work. What did you use as a amp, crossovers, power supply? I'm building my third job site motivational tool. The most important thing on the job site is tunes. This new build: two 5" SB Acoustics and a 10" Kicker with two 10" earthquake passive radiators. Using a small bookshelf amp and a small sub amp with DSP. Both are 12-18v input. A four slot DeWalt 20v charging station, spliced to feed the amps. Either through the AC charger or a battery. Last build was more similar to yours. I think. Though mine was a battery hog. A 6amp/h battery would last three hours at mid volume. Gotta love being a Electrician. Crazy AF boi
This was my first build of this nature. I was unsure of how the ported sub box would perform outdoor and in large areas so I’ll admit I just kinda slammed the box together lol I have 2 more builds I’m currently ordering parts for cuz people were amazed at how loud it was. I showed the amp at the 5 minute mark. Everything is ran off that board. I’m working on a 36v Milwaukee battery powered box that I’ll do videos for as well. This was just the prototype 🤙🏽 links in the description
Is it ok to make a bank even if some of the cells read a little differently on my cells some read 2.52v 2.53v 2.55v 2.56v 2.58v all cells read around that range will it be ok to hook them up as is?
@@keefsosa4992 anywhere in that 2.5 range as long as they are close. If they were like 2.53 2.54 2.55 I’d just hook it up then charge bank once fully assembled with a balancer. Subscribe to the channel 🙏
I seen your charging video on this lithium battery. How exactly do i charge each individual cell? Up to how many volts should i charge it too and also how many amps do i set it too since its a small cell?
That’d take forever lol If cells are close together in voltage they should be fine to assemble. 2.54 2.55 2.56 just example. Then charge bank. If cells are not that close then top balance them. Subscribe to the channel and feel free to ask any questions
@808patanderson ok so to top balance them wouldn't that require running wire in parallel all positive and all negative to each cell which is 60 total cells that would also take a long time doing . U think I'll be ok as long as all are at 2.5 volts even if they read 2.52 2.54 2.56 2.58v all are at 2.5v nothing lower
@@gainz6226 they’d probably be okay. Could always just top balance the lowest and highest to meet in the middle. I spend a lot of time and money on this so I try not to cut too many corners
Ok bro now I have an amp problem lol in a good way and a bad way as I have told you before I am still learning as I go one step at a time well I am to the installation part with the amps i made a temporary amp rack attached to my back seats with rivets and I have the AAK 6k strapped down and wired up anyway the good part of my amp problem is I just ordered a brand new Deafbonce AAK 180.4 for my mids and highs took me forever to find that amp but I wanted it for the Korean quality and so the amps would match ANYWAY now for the ACTUAL PROBLEM so I don't know how to tune an amp never even attempted it until yesterday and it didn't go well I bought a DD-1 and CC-1 combo package to tune with and i am seeing NO Distortion whatsoever on the head unit but at the amp i am seeing distortion before I touch the gain so I tried different volume levels and the best I could get was volume 35 with the gain about a quarter of the way but when I went to play music my subs were almost inaudible so I started researching and apparently the DD-1 is junk yes it will tell you if you have a clean signal with everything flat but as soon as you adjust LP,HP, subsonic or anything else it throws the distortion light immediately really wish I would have known that before hand but here we are im wondering if you can tell me how to do this and not mess anything up can I use the clip light on the amp for the gain please excuse my ignorance bro I just don't know how to go about doing this
@@808patanderson hey bro I got a problem and I was listening to the music the gang knob is only turn halfway up and then all the sudden I heard a pop and the amp went into protect with a red light I immediately pulled over turn the car off wait a minute turned it back on when it came back on it was still in protect but with a blue light what does this mean and how do I fix it I'm pretty sure it blew the f****** speaker though
@@SlamryCamry19 well the gain isn’t the volume so half way doesn’t mean much. I personally wouldn’t have been playing it without having it properly tuned and set up but it could have been a number of things. I’d just contact whoever you bought it from. And I’d unhook it from the car asap
@@808patanderson ok so this happened on the way to work today and as of right now I have everything properly tuned except for the gain and it is set really low until a better head unit gets here with a DSP etc Anyway I unhooked everything as soon as I pulled into work just to give Everything a chance to sit and completely cool off and have no electricity running through it because honestly it was really quiet compared to my normal listening volume and the temperature read out was 98 degrees Fahrenheit and unfortunately for the time being I do not have fans I'm waiting on three from down 4 sound and a sparked innovations 4 channel relay, switches etc but when I got home BEFORE reading this I immediately as soon as I pulled in the driveway started checking everything out checked the subs , smelled them everything seems fine I haven't hooked them up yet going to put the kicker amp on them tomorrow and see what they do But I did plug the power and ground back in with the remote turn on because I wanted to check once more before calling showtime electronics and when I turned on the car everything started up normally no protection light red/Blue just the green power big sigh of relief anyway I unhooked it again until I can figure everything out but I was researching it different ways about the blue protection light and didn't find anything on any deafbonce blue protection light but on NUMEROUS other amp models it stands for a thermal protection and means the amp has reached it's thermal limit that was the first thing i did when I pulled over was felt everywhere in the amplifier and it was NOT hot it was warm but Definitely not hot and nowhere near even 120 do you think it could have been hotter than the bass knob was showing or something the bass knob is showing I'm charging at 16.1-16.2 and everything else in my car and every multi meter I have says 15.7-15.8 so it's already half messed up I'm definitely not going to touch it until I have fans on it and everything is tuned with the new head unit and DSP and SMD tools I can't get the SMD to even register distribution anywhere and won't pick up a 40 Hz signal until almost everything is maxed out I'm being told my stock head unit and LOC aren't sending a strong enough signal to the amp reason for the other equipment I plan on running a standalone setup and leaving the head unit alone since the AC , cruise control and everything is tied into it do you think it is safe to wait for the fans and other stuff and redo everything properly and keep pushing or do you think there's a problem with the amp and the amp has rubber grommets in between it and the board for breathing room it's not flat on anything just in case you are wondering
bro thank you. im new at diy batteries i ordered straight from the source got 30 2.9 ah LTO cells basically same you have but half the amount. since there are 6 wires on that bms what would you do if you have half the cells?
Should these cells read at 2.4 - 2.5 volts each is that considered good? Is a reading of 0.41 volts a bad cell becuase i recived mine and one cell reads that
You could try to slow charge it individually and see if it holds but I’d say it’s a bad cell. Easier to get a new one to replace it now than when it’s installed.
@@808patanderson nice I just pulled the trigger on a single 15" incriminator audio tyrant 5k RMS I started thinking about what you said it would be really tight in the trunk for two 15's so I'm going to run a single 15 for now meet some people hit shows learn some things and next year upgrade to a dual 15 6th order in the back seat area
I got these cells from sriko. Got the diy kit comes with everything. Just wanted to know if spacers a really needed becuase sriko does not include spacers with this kit
@@Evo-ed7hw 15.5 is fine. Unsure on that charger. I made a video on charging these. You can watch it and get the same thing. Link should be In the description. It’s only about 30 bucks
Is there a processor that buffers the audio like 5 seconds early so that it has time to make corrections so that it’ll make the sub hit every single note, as in there would be an active crossover that adjusts to the best frequency possible for every note in advance so that the crossover or processor is always 5 seconds ahead of the next note? Does this exist or did I just invent something and accidentally share it publicly lol???
