Just to point out to novices, Apistogramma cacatuoides, A. agassizii, A. macmasteri, etc, are species NOT types. Aquarium strains of wild species, such as the A. cacatuoides (double red, I think) that is shown here are varieties or variants. There are a number of colour varieties, morphs or variants of A. agassizii in the hobby. A second tip I would give to novices is to use large tanks: the Apistogramma Study Group and the British Cichlid Association found many years ago that male Apistogramma hold large territories in the wild, and keeping them in small tanks led to increased levels of aggression towards tank mates and conspecifics. There is some variation between species, but bigger tanks with lots of hiding places for the females work better than small tanks. Keeping them in pairs is often a mistake; most apistos are polygynous, so it is better to keep them in trios, or, even better, as one male with three females. That way, the male will not focus his attention on just one female. Keeping other small, mid-water swimming fishes (dithers) with them has been shown to distract the male's aggression from the females; the male will endeavour to keep them away from his territory, giving the females some respite from his attentions. A key aspect of breeding apistos is conditioning the females. If the females are not in breeding condition and do not respond appropriately to the courtship of the male, then they will be attacked and, in confined quarters, most likely killed. The male's intent is to oust her from his territory in the hope that he can attract a ripe female who will reciprocate his courtship. This important factor is omitted from the video. Feeding live foods brings the females into condition quicker than feeding dry foods. Another key aspect not covered is the provision of the appropriate water parameters for the different species of Apistogrammas. Tap water was mentioned, but this is of little use in the US and Europe where there can be great disparity in water quality between different utilities and providers. Many households still use well water. The majority of Apistogramma species occur in soft, acidic waters. Some prefer blackwaters that are tea coloured. A lot of the tank bred varieties included in this presentation (such as A. cacatuoides) are not fussy as to water quality, nitrogenous excluded. Lowering the pH often leads to breeding success. Regarding aggression in Apistogramma agassizii, there is another variable to be considered here. This species has a very wide distribution in the wild and is found in many river basins and small streams. These populations are recognised by differences in colour patterns of the males. It is now thought that almost certainly, these geographical populations are incipient species. They have been isolated for so long that they no longer recognise other populations as being the same species behaviourally, ie they look very similar but they 'speak a different dialect'. The wider the separation, the greater the divergence. Aquarium strains have been derived from different geographical populations, and different batches are often mixed in dealers' tanks. Therefore, obtaining a compatible pair can often be a matter of good luck. Purchasing wild caught fish that have been collected from one area is recommended, rather than trying to match up fishes from different suppliers whose stock might have been derived from unrelated geographical ancestors. A common mistake made by newcomers to keeping dwarf cichlids is to keep them in dwarf tanks. This doesn't always work out for the best. However, I should mention that there are species of Apistogramma that can be kept in smallish tanks (75 x 30cm), eg, A. regani, where the males are quite small, but this species is not common due to its rather dull colouration. Apistogramma borellii can be kept in pairs but in a large tank with dither fish. They prefer cooler temperatures and tolerate some hardness in their water. Apistogramma species are often nervous and shy in aquaria and can take a long time to accept their new surroundings before settling in. Providing them with the right conditions is paramount to breeding success. Paedophagy, or fry eating, is not just restricted to dwarf cichlids but occurs in many other species of cichlids such as angelfish. This is often a sign that something is not going right for them and the parents (often the females) give up. Naivety in young females plays a part in this, as does the disturbance around the tank, and here the advice is to persevere, keep the partners well fed and try again.
This is great information, I have 4 Apisto Borelii's in my 29g tank they are on their own they are about 4 months old I have provided leaf litter bog live plants and coconut shells . Their temperature is at 24 and I'm concerned is that too low the water is really cold. The tank is not in a busy room. But I only see them at feeding time is that normal ? My water is soft oh is 4 my ph is 7.4 so I have to lower that yes? I love these fish and I want them to do well have you any advice you could offer please I just don't feel in my gut that they are happy when they dint know I'm watching they still don't come out from the plants and swim around 🤔 I'd really appreciate any advice . Tia.
@tinadoyle3803 Hi Tina, there is not anything that I can point to and say that it is wrong. Your pH is slightly higher than what is recommended, but ime this species is tolerant of a wide range of values. 24°C is not low for this species, in Argentina, they have been collected in alkaline water at 18°C during the southern hemisphere winter, so nothing wrong there. If they are not coming out, there must be something else that is not to their liking. Nitrate and nitrite are definitely two stressors they cannot tolerate. They appreciate weekly water changes, around 25%. At 24°C, there is a wide choice of small tetras and barbs that can be kept as dither fish. The smaller species of corydoras are ideal, being non aggressive, hardy and always busy doing their own thing. I am currently breeding 3 species of corydoras at 24°C. I hope these extra bits of advice help.
I have a phew pairs of different Apistos.this type are fantastic together as a pair know aggressive behaviour whats so ever 🤷🤷100% friendly to eachother 👌🏻
Hi Guys, I want keep Apisto for 1st time. And I am getting Apistogramma Agassizii. Is it ok !! Is Agassizii is tough to keep !! How many Male & Female I can keep only Apisto tank !! It's a 11 US gallon or 40 Ltr. tank.
Hey Adam, you've got a great breeding setup. I was wondering if you are ever going to breed any hongsloi and if you do, would you post them out around the UK? Cheers
hi iam getting a pair of apistogramma macmasteri but it was just labled macmasteri it has two red stripes on the top on bottom of the tail fin do you know what colour morph it is?
This is a very comprehensive review of the apistogrammas. Have you had any experience with the Hongsloi and the Borelli? It would be great to hear your thoughts. Thanks
I like to keep Apistogramma and I like to keep 1 and a Blue Ram together in a 10g tank with rock and live plants can this be done i done have in thing in the tank can you help me with this
What is the PH Do you keep Apistogramma at and what is the Temperature Do you keep them at and can you keep them with Blue Ram can you help me with this
I don't know where you are but I don't find that to be true. I ordered my first ever apisto pair from a shop. It did take 3 months though. I love my opals. Great fish, hardy and beautiful.
I love Apistos! You have very cool selection! I have only Hongsloi for now, but planning to get more once I move to new apartment next month. Anyways cool stuff, just subbed!
I am still working on getting my panduros to breed. The first day or two when I had all 4 someone scattered a bunch of eggs on some wood. They are still there. I ended up splitting the 4some into two pairs. Do you think I should put both females in with the dominant male or just keep patience with the two pair set up. I have had them about a month now.
