I love this film. Have some in my Tc-1 right now that expired in 2022 (Venus 800). Shooting it at 500, cause it gets muddy at 800. It has a muted natural color look. Super punchy reds. Beautiful greens. Super wide latitude. Almost no grain for a 800 speed film. I don't dare scan this film myself though. It just looks yucky with NLP conversions. I get it scanned with a Frontier 5000 and colors are beautiful.
Gold Ultramax 400 is a bit different, definitely an updated formula compared to the original Gold 400 that was available back in the day. They even made Gold 800, but I think the new receipt is what they use in the Kodak disposable cameras.
Back in the day I'd push 400 to 1600 when shooting at night. You did good considering what you were attempting to do. While the highs were blown out, that's something that's easy to fix in post, especially with the digital tools we have now.
Dang 1600! That’s impressive. Also I think if I shot for the mid tones and not the shadows I could have retained more of those highlights. I’ll definitely be playing with this a bit more in the future. I don’t know if I’m brave enough to go 1600 though
I used a handheld sekonic meter for each shot. The meter in the camera uses a mercury battery and I have not bothered to try and find a replacement that would work. As well you can always use the Sunny16 rule with this camera. If you are unsure of an exposure, it's a half frame so bracketing your shots is not a problem.
@@northwestdepressed I'm new to film so I guess the ISO 400 limit only applies if you're using the built-in meter? If using other films you can compensate the light by adjusting the aperture and shutter speed?
Okay yes, I'll try to explain this as best as I can. There's something called the exposure triangle and that's based off of ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture. These three things can all be adjusted to make an accurate exposure according to the light that is present. With Film, the ISO consistent per roll. So a 400 iso roll will always be 400. This rule gets broken later on with pushing/pulling, don't worry too much about that now. ISO is designated to each film. If your camera doesn't have an DX code reader, you have to set your iso manually yourself, whether it is on the camera, a hand held meter or your phone. Some older cameras have limited sensitivity in their meters, hence why they only go to a certain point. As long as the camera has manual controls though, you can shoot any film though. If it's a point and shoot you might be out of luck, but a bit of research on each model can tell you what will work with it. A easy way to start to figuring out how to work with a manual camera is go out during the day, get a 200 iso film, set your shutter speed to 1/125th, and then just play with your aperture for each scene. Feel free to ask more questions, I'll help you if I can!
Yeah they seem to blow out pretty fast. I wonder if pushing it to 400 iso, and shooting it at 500 iso would be a solid remedy for that? Might give the shadows a nice punch
Envious, it’s a fantastic film stock! This one roll I shot at iso 500, developed normally. If you have that many I’d say sacrifice one roll and do some exposure tests. Develop it at box iso and then do several photographs and meter one at box speed, one at one stop below, and then another at two stops below. After developing you can see which exposure looks best, whether it’s box speed, one stop, or two. Hopefully that makes sense!
@@northwestdepressed are you interested in more? Honestly the night time shots you got are absolutely insane. I would be down to send a few rolls and help a channel out!
@@raulcstetson That be super kind of you! Is your handle the same on instagram? I can message you there about more details and maybe paying you for them and shipping?
Great shots dude! Love how the colors came out. I shot my first roll of Kodak Gold 400 on 110 this summer and was impressed with how well it held up for its age. Gold is king.
Stellar video man, those 2 shots at lunch are really nice 🤙lots of warmth. I've pushed gold to 400 once and the results were pretty rad. Some of the colors got further from realistic than usually but I'd definitely do it again.
most fuji stocks need to come back, they had so many unique ones. jason used industrial 100 in a vid once and i havent gotten over the colors ever since... i wish superia xtra 400 came back though. a big case of not knowing what we got till its gone
I have good news for you, you can buy Fuji Industrial 100 still! After reaching out to several other photographers, and a little bit of research, I found out the FujiColor 100, the Japanese stuff, is Fuji Industrial, just packaged different. FujiColor 100 and 400 are both being made still, but sold only in Japan at the moment, but sometimes a few come State side!
Killer work on this one. I especially love the shot at the Veteran's Memorial. Those pinks hit the spot. Keep it up!! Edit: also those night shots at the burger joint are bangers
Nice shots, film held up great. Curious if you thought to use that FLD filter with it? Also...Note to self, don't go out after dark in Bremmerton, less the fire or thing that screams gets ya! #fujifilmliveson 🎉 Cheers!
I did think of using the FLD filter and that’s how I stumbled upon the miracle which was Fuji’s 4th layer emulation and what it actually did. Pretty incredible to be honest. Also Bremerton definitely isn’t for the faint of heart! Hahahaha
@@northwestdepressed Thank you! I meant to use the phrase “all glitch” as a portmanteau for “all sick” i.e. it’s good! Well done! FYI, I was factory trained on Sony Hi8 handicaps in the 1980s,
Hooray, another trip! Cool speed graphic man! Every vid of yours inspires me to go out and shoot, like how cameras should too, which why I like having a variety of formats and types, anyways well done 🎉
I definitely went full force on this trip, which I'm glad I did because on a following trip, that will hopefully be up sooner or later, I was able to reduce gear and just shoot the essentials
That’s good for a first 4x5! Lots of great stuff here. I especially liked the double exposure. Good soundtrack too (bonus points for the neon sign blinking on the downbeat 😅)
I’m not sure where you’re getting those development times from. Rolliei specifically states on their data sheet that for every stop pushed it’s 1.33 times the base development time. So 15 x 1.33 = 19.95. Multiply by 1.33 again and you get 26.5 minutes. The only way you’d develop this long is if you were doing stand development in Rodinal instead of agitation or rotary development. Also when you push using Rodinal it’s usually a good idea to increase the dilution by 1.5ml per stop per roll in the tank. The margin for error on this film is really low at box speed. Your metering mistakes are really amplified and you absolutely should meter for the shadows. Under development probably wasn’t really an issue. I’d say the primary issue was metering in several frames since you definitely had some looking good. Some of them looked 2 stops underexposed and others a single stop.
That vertical shot came out so well. Definitely one of my all time favorites. Also interesting, I love sharing all the examples and see which ones people prefer!
I love experimenting and honestly I've loved the these results more than anything else I've made in the past. I've used these filters over several times this summer so watch out for some future videos because they'll have some more infrared trichromes!
