I bought a axe head at a thrift antique store for $5. It looks exactly like the axe in this video but...... there are no markings on it. My plan is to restore it and replace the handle...
hello. Dustin. Can you share where you purchased the Hammer Head shown in Shorts? I'm looking for a nice Hammer Head, but I'm having a hard time... I am writing from Korea.
Hi! I'm writing from Italy. It has been a long time..! But I hope you'll read it. Your work is very cool: in your clip I found a lot of very useful tips about knives processing! I was searching for knives and other things about it, but I'm especially interested in bone processing: the one you used here, it was fresh from the butcher or dried? Do you know something else for this kind of bone work? Ty very much: your work is great! 🙏
I wish I could post photos in the comments. I've made medieval swords daggars and axes out of pine for the last few years, my latest was the Deathdealer axe from the artwork of Frank Frazetta. Good stuff!
What kind of knife is that? It has a weirdly wide blade. I see it all the time in american sheath making videos, but I don't think I've ever even seen them in my country. Tool knives here are usually just the cheap mora knives. Man, the blades in those are downright magical for how cheap they are..
yes! what i wanted to see today. I've made a couple of wooden swords my self, But seeing how you approached the topic with a blacksmithing perspective made me very inspired.
You and Paul Sellers have shown me that these tools need to be used! We don't have to restore them to showroom condition. But to a functional tool to be enjoyed, not set on a shelf. Ty
As I yell at the screen hold both threads back until you have a couple of stitches in. Then see what you have. That machine is a beast how heavy of leather will it sew, my Class 26 will sew 5/8 inch or so but also sew thin leathers.
Dustin hello I can give you 2 combinations put your spool of thread outside so that it gets moisture and the other solution pass your thread from the top between two felt pens soaked in light oil or best of all silicone.... ...on occasion tell me not to use too much to avoid staining the leather. Bernard of Paris
looks like a great machine and runs smooth and quiet. I love finding old tools and machines and figuring out how to get them to work for me, but I couldn't do it on camera for sure! Well done.
Very good, Dustin! You are still the workshop teacher. Although I don't see you as a tailor hahaha. It is not easy to see the system and maintenance of the sewing machines, although it is simple to understand how it works. But once again, you have achieved it. Congratulations
Brother I’m new to your channel, I must say!! The good lord has given you a great gift!! I’m really enjoying your channel and content!! Nicely done!!!👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Lovely work and very clear and informative presentation. Am working on my first knife and have been looking for inspiration for the sheath. Should be finished befor Xmas 🤞🏻
My Dad did leather work when I was a kid and I have developed a hankering to get into it. I have acquired some tooling and supplies from Marketplace that should get me going. I am a green amateur in leather working. It looks like you are discovering items with the new machine that piques your interest. I am doing the same with my new hand tools. Best of luck.
Also, to get a backstitch, the only thing you have to do is do like three stitches forward pick up your walking foot, pull the leather back towards you and start the needle in the first hole, where the threads already are, and then start stitching again. That basically makes your lockstitch.
Ok, I like that and will definitely do it for hidden stitches, but for leather showing the stitches I don’t think that would look great. Thanks again for the help.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship I have been doing Leather work as a hobby for 12 years at least and since 2017 I’ve been doing it full-time and especially on a knife sheath or ax sheath you definitely need that double stitch at the beginning and end of every beginning and end. I do that with every sheath I make and not a single person has said anything and I know I’ve done hundreds. Only way, not putting a stitch to put a rivet the beginning and end. Nobody’s going to have a custom sheet made for a $10 Walmart knife so you’re dealing with peoples expensive knives and you don’t the stitches come undone, and potentially lose a very expensive knife
You have to hold onto the top thread and bottom thread, and hold tension on them when you start sewing. if it looks like your thread from the bobbin is coming up from the top, loosen the tension a little bit for the top thread. Do you want that stitch to be in the middle of the leather not up top
Get rid of the clutch motor (loud and heavy). Put a servo motor on it. It'll be 80% -90% quieter. You can also have the needle stop up or down. Also can set top speed/rpm. Have done this on my wife's commercial straight stitch and her commercial serger. She absolutely loves them.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship The DC Servo Motors are built differently and do have as much, if not more power than the older clutch motors. It is hands-down the best upgrade you can do, in my opinion. The needle positioner is a great addition. The needle can be set to always stay down, and you back-peddle once to lift it. They are also programmable for top-end speed, so you can really slow them down. I have two machines with @ReliableCorporation SewQuiet motors and would recommend them.
Sewing machines are very intimidating for me. I make knife sheaths and shoes from oak tanned leather. So, I decided on a simple brogue design for my shoes from the 19th century. Because it's a simple design with very little sewing needed. I can hand sew with heavy thread in a quick time.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship I have owned a Tippman Boss for several yrs. and love it. But I generally do not work with heavier leathers. 4-5 oz is what I use for shoes, so hand sewing is a breeze.
after I became disabled after active duty I got into hobbies to fill my day and the one I started recently is leatherworking and I definitely need a a sewing machine and this one is pretty nice I was thinking about getting one of those $100 Amazon Cobbler ones, so thanks for posting this one
Ive been a bladesmith for well over 35 years. You should never cold hammer on a blade. It can cause stress fractures you can't see. You need fancy stuff to build a coal/charcoal forge. A hairdryer will make a perfectly fine blower. Old brake drum makes a perfectly fine pot. While cinder blocks and some old black pipe will make a perfectly good stand and air channel. You already have the difficult part in your anvil. Hammering to shape makes a better blade than grinding also. If you would like to learn to do it the correct way i am happy to teach you. Can all be done through video calls or trading videos on here. I do intend to start making videos to show people the old ways my grandfather taught me, as in no power tools using files and stones to polish. Of course talking videos that will be hours long so i can show the whole process of forging to 90+% finished then hand polishing would be a seperate video. Im not knocking anyone, just want to share with people who show interest in the true art of smithing.