@@cavo1977 LOL - I haven't realized that the label says "Max. Charging Voltage" - I even talk about the nominal voltage... I must have overseen this, and expected it to be the nominal voltage, as you would normally write onto the label. Anyway, thanks for pointing that out. Have you been able to revive yours? I'd think disconnecting the pos. or neg. terminal would suffice to reset it. I don't have a car for it, and I can't sell it, so I wasn't too motivated on reviving it. I will find a usecase for the cells though.
I didn't get my hands on it yet but many times these are not serviceable as the board stays in error state for liability reasons. Not very sustainable I know.
Update: I tried to get a partial refund through Paypal, without sending the unit back. This was a huge mistake, as joying didn't accept this, and there is no way to enforce a partial refund through paypal, even if the product is not as described. Changing the case to full refund with return of the unit is not foreseen, and was only possible with a call to Paypal. But from then, the process on the Paypal side did not run as it should. I have spent a lot of time on the phone with Paypal, because the parcel was stuck in customs (I declared it correctly, and not with 40USD as requested by joying). Since I declared it correctly, Joying had to pay import taxes, which they did not want to pay. Also Paypal never informed Joying, about the shipping number, even if I called multiple times to check with Paypal if everything is alright. I then had some email back and forth with Joying, and they eventually payed the customs fees, and the unit was delivered. They then asked me to cancel the dispute, so they could refund me. I did not do this, but instead had to wait another 10 days, until finally, Paypal decided to refund my money. All in all I've lost a lot of time with the unit, with paypal, and about 120USD in customs + return shipping. Very frustrating, and I highly recommend not buying a Joying unit, and not counting on Paypal's buyer protection.
Dude... My BBS02 is brand new. I finished my build 2 days ago. Drove it twice. I had to meddle with the shifter cable during the build, because the plastic thingy was too tall, I shaved it down, shifter cable tension changed. So, had to adjust the rear deleriour. First drive was A ok. Second one, today, was also without any issues. I carried the bike upstairs to my apartment, and turned it upside down to do some final adjustments to the deleriour. It ran pretty sweet. While the bike was upside down, I ziptied the front light cable to the bundle of cables that comes right out of the motor. Not very tight, just to keep them together. While I was adjusting the delariour, I noticed that a small pebble fell from somewhere in the front gear area when I moved the pedals, apparently it got stuck there somewhere. Dunno if that's important. Anyways. I finished, turned it back on it's wheels. I wanted to test how the gears change. Turned on the screen, set PAS lvl to 1, lifted the rear wheel off the ground, and pushed throttle gently, it throttled a little. Once I cranked it up a little bit more, it just kept throttling untill I set PAS lvl to 0, or push brakes. Same thing happened when I pushed on the pedals with my foot. Whereas with the throttle, the pedals didn't move ( obviously ) previously, now they just rotate with the throttle. You apparently have more experiance with that engine. What do you suggest? I really doubt the screws got loose after putting the bike upside down... Goddamnit...
Sorry to hear about the problems with such a new unit. Unfortunately, I don't habe any advice on how to fix this, but disassembly of the "external" parts is quite easy, so I would disassemble and check if anything is loose (don't remove the axle, but the right crankarm and gear cover)
@@niokolabs did that. Controler cables dont look loose. Gears are not loose at all. Nothing chipped, pristine. Something had to happen to the PAS magnet when i was turning the bike over, and it was briefly on its side. My bbs02 appears to be the newest version. Axle is secured with a rubber seal thats pressed in hard. Probably would have to destroy it to get it out. From the look of it, the new PAS magnet design, looks to not be fixed in with screws anymore. Not sure.
I pulled the entire Shaft out of the pump with a wheel puller. Swore a lot and set it down . Doh! There are a bunch of old gaskets that get really crappy.
Funny enough, I didn't investigate further until yesterday. I was able to get it stable with adjusting the Gain. But only outside of the hull. If I use it in hull, it currently does not provide any usable readings. I've had a ~30 Years old Seafarrer unit, which uses the same transducer type, and same install location. It always worked without any issues. Do you have the same unit? Similar issues?
There was a second one, with the same visual defects. I suspect that these have internally failed, and the OEM asked the shop to destroy them instead of sending them back for warranty.
the enclosure that holds the enviolo also holds the spokes. And is very brittle, spokes break out of it, ruining the whole thing. You showed it, I experienced the same
Interesting, I found two of these hubs, and I was under the impression, that the flanges were broken on purpose (eg. warranty claim without returning).
I'm trying to make a geared unicycle from one of these, and am interested to see the planet carrier is fixed to the shaft. Not a problem in a regular bike for a unicycle the shaft needs to transmit torque between the pedals, and if the transmission input is coupled to the shaft then there is no relative motion between the planets and the input ring, which is a big problem. I could hold the input ring fixed against the frame, but then the wheel will turn the wrong way and the input ring will disengage, not transmitting torque. Also, suboptimal to be unable to ride in reverse. A good puzzle!
Very interresting. I have been riding a 380 for 3500 km now and it works very well. But one thing I still do not understand: how are the planets tilted and held in the desired angle? It is not explained og visualized in any picture or video I have seen yet. Yes, the old ones had a kind of fork around the planets, moved by the center roller but it seems they use another principle now?
Hmm, good question, I think it's what starts here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5kV7NTgO4s0.html on that strange spider, there is a gear on the opposite site of the freewheel. This seems to engage with the planets. But how the Spider is held in place, I don't know.
Damn that looks complex 😊 There's got to be a simpler way. I think the future is in better chain+cog alloys and surface treatments. They should be able to boost lifetimes of standard chain-Derailleur setups by 10x.
mein Lotus-Grill G340 funktioniert nicht mehr. Es fing letztes Jahr an: Der Ventilator schien neue Batterien zu brauchen, also wechselten wir sehr oft... Dieses Jahr funktionierte er einmal, dann ging nichts mehr. Ich denke, das Problem liegt am Motor des Ventilators (Probleme mit den Kabeln?), und wir sollten ihn austauschen, aber wie sollen wir das machen und wäre es nicht besser, einen effizienteren Motor zu nehmen? Wo kann ich was kaufen und wie kann ich den Motor austauschen? Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe.
Verstehe ich das richtig: um den Lüfter zu pimpen hast du einerseits die default 5V auf 12V hoch. Das alleine wäre ja schon gut. Um dabei die niedrigen Drehzahlen korrekt anzusteuern möchtest du von RPM auf PWM Lüfter. Dazu braucht man dann einen ersatzcontroller? oder wird der ergänzt in der schaltung?
Original ist einfach ein 5v Lüfter mit Poti (Poti verbrennt bei Teillast Strom). Bei mir ist ein (massiv leistungsfähigerer) 12V Lüfter, der ein PWM Signal-Eingang hat, mit dem dann die Drehzahl geregelt werden kann, siehe Beschreibung.
@@thomasesser6508 Durch den stärkeren Lüfter, die Spannung ist grundsätzlich egal, muss aber natürlich zum Lüfter passen. Den stärkeren Lüfter kann man aber ggf. nicht ohne weiteres direkt mit einem Poti regeln, da dieses nicht für die geforderten Ströme ausgelegt sind. Hinzu kommt, dass der Stärkere Lüfter, sofern man denn ein Poti hat, welches den Strom verträgt ggf. nicht zuverlässig in tiefen Drehzahlen läuft, da die Spannung dann zu tief sein könnte. Die tiefen Drehzahlen braucht man aber, da man ja nicht immer voll reinblasen will.
OOh I get it now! They are using the torque from the pedals to create the clamping force for the "ball transmission". Thats the point of those ramp-things at 2:26. I was wondering how they are creating the clamping force without a big spring
Thanks so much for this. I wanted to explore inverting this hub so that the right drive side is on the left side. This would be for single speed motorized bikes with left side chain drive. This video explains why it would/wouldn't work. I see now that the input and output drive rings are two halves with one way cam teeth and a bearing ring that sits in the middle for the cams to ride on. I see mechanically why they did this now. It's to expand the rings halves to apply more contact force and basically squeeze the CVT spheres when drive torque is applied in the appropriate direction. This additional pressure combined with the fluid, is what makes these virtually slip proof. For my concept to work, the cam teeth on the rings would have to be inverted to the opposite cam direction for that ring expansion "squeeze" to be applied when torqued in the opposite or left side direction. That means making new rings or modifying existing ones. Due diligence served, but thats where I am stopping with this endeavor.
También estoy en esta misma búsqueda , en mi caso para una honda 50 k1 , intenté traducir lo que dijo y parece que no es posible ? No alcanza con eliminar el sistema y dejarlo fijo? Espero que puedan traducirlo gracias
Amazing engineering to get all those balls and races into that little housing. Like all CVT's the actual ball to race contact is infinitly small and can slip under hi loads. The special black liquid in the hub is designed to "stack" up around the contact spots increasing friction between the hardened steel surfaces. Not as efficient as a chain with discrete sprockets, but smooth and quiet and stepless instead. Perfect for the leisure and rental market. Would I tour across Mongolia with it..Nope.
Interesting video but very annoying camera movement. Also it's frustrating to see the videographer fumbling with one hand. A bit more professionalism would have made this video more tolerable.
No one has made you watch it, but you yourself. So, do us a favour, will ya? Quit the nagging and the complaining. I for one applaud the vid creator for his tenacity in the given Situation.
Bei einem Hochleistungsscheinwerfer wie dem Supernova M99 schwankt der Innendruck durch Temperaturunterschiede. Um dies auszugleichen und dennoch Schmutz und Wasser von den optischen Bauteilen fern zu halten, sind alle Supernova M99-Scheinwerfer mit einer atmungsaktiven Membran ausgestattet, wie sie auch in modernen Autoscheinwerfern zu finden ist. Diese Membran sorgt selbstregulierend für einen Druck- und Feuchtigkeitsausgleich, ohne Salz, Rußpartikel oder Wasser hindurch zu lassen. Dennoch können bei hoher Luftfeuchtigkeit geringe Mengen an Wasserdampf ins Gehäuse gelangen. Diese schlagen sich dann bei kühlem Fahrtwind an der kältesten Stelle der Frontscheibe nieder. Das ist vergleichbar mit einem leicht angehauchten Spiegel. Dies ist von außen gut zu erkennen, hat aber bis zu einer Tropfengröße von 0,5 mm Durchmesser keinen wahrnehmbaren Einfluss auf das Lichtbild oder auf die Lebensdauer der Elektronik.Die Scheinwerfer werden bei der Fertigung in Gundelfingen für den Transport versiegelt. Sollte sich bei Ihnen eine größere Menge Feuchtigkeit auf der Innenseite der Scheibe niederschlagen, können Sie den Siegelaufkleber entfernen und dadurch den Feuchtigkeitsausgleich ermöglichen, was je nach Umgebung einige Tage dauern kann.
I'd say missing QC / production issues. After I replaced it, it held strong. Also the BBS Series was relatively new, so I expect that such problems will not be an issue anymore. All in all the BBS02 is very well engineered. It has some compromises in it, which are by design. Especially the "Bottom Bracket" is on the weak side, and I personally would not trust it off road.
How can they manufacture and sell that hub retail for around 120USD? There are so many machined parts inside and the assembly complexity is incredible.
Actually never gave this a thought, but it's more like 300USD, isn't it? At least in Europe it is.. But even at 300USD it seems rather cheap for how it's made.
It indeed is - I don't have any personal experience with geared hubs, so I cannot really help you there. What I can say, is that I personally like lightweight wheels, and putting a geared hub, or a hub motor into a wheel will end up in a heavy wheel - so I would not buy any IGH. I would consider it on an electric assist cargo bike though.
I bought a new NuVinci N171 unit from Calfee Design and it leaked during shipping. When I emailed them for some help they could neither supply any pf the oil nor could they point me in a direction to buy some. Sadly their after sales service on this item is 0. No internal spares. Little if any external spares. Although their replies are always courteous they offer NO after sales service. Finally, I wish I could find some of the correct oil to refill my new but empty, and therefore useless, NuVinci N171 rear hub
@@monter75 No I don't. None of the companies that should be able to help in supplying it, i.e. Enviolo, Calfee or the other resellers, simply don't acknowledge a request regarding any sale of he oil. This may be because they require any servicing, which requires topping up the oil, on the units to be done by them at their premises. It's been overwhelming disappointing dealing with any after-sales support on any of the Enviolo/NuVinci products. Re: the oil, I will probably retrieve a few millilitres get a local oil lab to check it out and give me a recommendation. It surely can't be that different to something else that's readily available.
I did in the past, but the current was getting a lot higher, while not having much more speed - it was just too much load for the Propeller I guess. But I will come with an update sometime, I have some plans for more speed.
Vor allem die besten Werkstattkollegen die es gibt! Sie läuft.. aber, was im Video nicht vorkommt.... auf der Rückseite hat es zwei Kunstoffpropfen, die sind der Lichteinlass für den Tageslichtsensor / Photodiode.... ja ich hab die ausgebohrt, weil ich Schrauben darunter erhofft hatte... weiss nicht ob das TFL, resp. die Umschaltung noch funktioniert.
Very interesting thank you for filming this. I have disassembled many of these hubs over the past decade but never a newer model Cargo hub which this one is. Wasn't easy to see but one of the modifications which I was promised would make the hub better appears to be plastic end caps on the planet axles. Very unimpressed but got 2 on test at the moment so will see how they do. Maybe there is more to it so should reserve my judgement until after more testing. I experimented with bronze bushings as end caps and they would wear out quite quickly but did save the stator. These things still don't appear to be built to last which is a great shame because I love them.
Update, my CA hub has failed today and I suspect its these plastic end caps. First time in a decade of riding with these hubs that one has actually failed on a ride. It is still just about usable if you can get up to speed past underdrive. Very high drag in underdrive and at one piont it even slipped. Not that pleased with enviolo at the moment. Have spent the past 5 years developing automatic shifting and their hubs are turning out to be the only part that letting it down.
@@Ed.R Hello Ed, first of, thanks for your comments, always like to have some feed back, so I know that I'm not filming stuff like this just for myself. Sad to hear about the failed hub. I hope that you can find a solution to improve durability.
@@niokolabs I was going to say you should have kept the oil and sold it. The stuff is impossible to get hold of and I'd definitely like some spare. They are sending a replacement hub for me to test.
The cordless drill that I used actually has a motor break. Not really controllable, but when lifting the foot of the throttle, the wheel instantly locks. Of course this is not a real break, especially not suitable for downhill runs, but this go kart is only used in the neighborhood, so no issue there.
Klarer Bedienungsfehler. Kann dir bei jedem Gartenschlauch auch passieren wenn man ihn falsch aufrollt und nichts anderes ist es bei dir!! Wenn dann brauchst du einen der den Schlauch mit einer Führung auf die Rolle gibt. Man bekommst halt das wofür man bezahlt und hinterher ist alles scheiße und jeder beschwert sich im Internet!!
Lol, Karl Ich hoffe das ist nicht dein Ernst.. So billig war das Teil nicht, es hatte 50€ gekostet. Das AS Schwabe Teil, welches ich danach gekauft hatte zwar mit 67€ etwas teurer (jedoch 10M Schlauch, beim Güde sind es 8M), spielt aber in einer komplett anderen Liga. Eine Automatik Schlauchtrommel muss in der Lage sein, den Schlauch automatisch aufzurollen (ohne dass ich daneben stehe und manuell führe).
Wenn man einen Gartenschlauch falsch aufrollt passiert das gleiche, egal ob es ihn automatisch einzieht oder du selber kurbelst. Deshalb Bedienungsfehler! Oder sind alle Schlauchtrommeln „unbrauchbar“?
@@benediktkarl5367 Keine Ahnung, meine Erfahrung begrenzt sich auf insgesamt 4 verschiedene Automatik Schlauchrolller (3x Druckluft, 1x Wasser). Nur einer hat nicht funktioniert. Ich bleibe dabei, wenn Automatik draufsteht, dann kann es nicht sein, dass man babysitten muss. Dass sie sich mal gegen ende ein bisschen Verklemmt kommt auch bei der AS Schwabe vor.. einen Meter rausziehen und gut ist. Das Andere Fabrikat weiss ich nicht mehr wie es heisst. Rollt immer auf, ohne Hilfe (und ohne Führung).
Aber wenn keine Vorrichtung auf dem Aufroller ist kann es nicht funktionieren und das sehe ich beim Kauf! Die Schlauchtrommel hat eine automatische Einzugvorrichtung aber wo es den Schlauch hin zieht musst du bei dem Model selber vorgeben. Wie gesagt das sieht man beim Kauf ob der das hat oder nicht. Ich kann doch z.B. auch kein Auto mit nur drei Reifen kaufen und mich dann im Internet beschweren dass der Wagen schief steht und nicht gerade aus fährt! Das Produkt kann nichts dafür!!!
Absolutely - I have replaced the Excursion with an Intex Mariner, runs very well. Will need to make a video at some point.. The Mariner is a bit heavy though..
Stefan O. Hallo Nico, möchte gerne meinen Lotus xl mit einer stärkeren Lüftung ausstatten wie Du es beschreibst. Kannst Du konkrete Bauteil-Specs nennen, zm diese bestellen zu können. Danke!
