For this engine, remove primary casing, will need a new gasket, then clutch basket, and primary chain, then sealing plate that sits behind the clutch and then the sprocket is in front of you, rear wheel drive chain loosen/ remove, and then refit, would need two new gaskets and one new locking tab for clutch basket, it can be done all going well in an hour or two,
This is the info from my workshop manual, i couln't find out how to send the image to you so i hope this helps 1. Lubrication The oil level is determined by a small screw at the back of each sliding fork leg. First place the machine on the centre stand, thus allowing the forks to extend. To fill each fork leg to the correct level remove the plug screws from the fork bead and the oil level screws at the back of the sliding fork leg. Pour oil in at the top until it runs out at the level boles. Wait until oil has stopped running and replace level plugs and plug screws. Recommended grades of oil• are Castrolite, Mobiloil Arctic, Esso Extra 20W/30, D.P. Energol S.A.E. 20W, Shell X-100 20/20W or Havoline 20/20W. 8. "250 Trials (Fig. 5) A ·'Casquette" is not employed on this model but the fork head houses the speedometer. The main fork tubes screw into the steering bead and are secured to the fork crown by two clamp bolts. Fitted over the lower end of the main tube is the bottom tube made of high strength aluminium alloy with an integral lug which carries the wheel spindle. At the lower end of the main tube is a steel bush which is a close fit in the bore of the bottom tube. The upper end of the bottom tube carries a bronze bush which is a close fit over the outside diameter of the main tube. The bush is secured to the bottom tube by means of a threaded housing which contains an oil seal. A stud known as the .. spring stud" is fitted in the lower end of the bottom tube and a valve port is secured to the lower end of the main tube. As the fork operates oil is forced between the spring stud and the bore of the valve port forming a hydraulic damping system. A compression spring 21 in. long is fitted inside the main tube between the upper end of the spring stud and the upper end of the main tube. The lower end of the main tube and upper end of the bottom tube are protected by a cover secured to the fork crown. • If temperature is above 90"F (32"C) use one of the followina :-Castro! XL; Energol S.A.E. 30; Mobiloil A; Esso Extra 20W/30; Shell X-100 30; Havoline 30. SECTION OF FORK LEG .. 250 TRIAlS •• Flg.5 The fork is filled with a light oil (S.A.E. 20) to a point above the lower end of the spring so that the damper chamber .. B.. is always kept full of oil. Upward movement of the wheel spindle forces oil from the lower chamber .. A .. through the annular space between the spring stud and the bore of the main tube valve port into the damper chamber .. B." During thU stroke the pressure on the underside of the valve plate causes this to lift so that oil can also pass from .. A .. to .. B .. through the eight
Thanks for this, I do have some manuals but I can’t find any that suggest oils, so this could be a big help, if possible could you email it to. thedestinationrenovation@gmail.com
If you google "royal enfield crusader manual pdf", the first result is a free pdf from Hitchcocks. Details of front forks and oil are on page 63 onwards.
Cheers mate , I’ve ordered another DMF as I pintured the back of the DMF bearing probably by not not having the gearbox completely in the clutch before bolting it in as was heavy as fook and 36 degrees in Spain lol. Weird thing was after fitting , the clutch pedal was down to the floor. Also you have a very good point about being in gear as I might have knocked it into gear underneath trying to get gear selector end rods off. And a local mechanic said I needed a special DMF fitting tool which looking back on your video you used lol so lots of school boy errors on my part lol. Thanks again for your help 👌👍👍
Glass fibre takk is fine if it has an epoxy coating inside to stop the ethanol in modern fuels, rotting the glass fibre. You also need to check the valve seats. I bet they are for leaded fuel. Love to see it and hear it when finished. I suspect you live near Donnington race track? Kot too far from my place in Stafford. I have 4x RGV250's to rebuild and a 1954 Ambassador suprieme 225cc Villiers Mk1H engine.
Hi, thanks for this, I’m now on with the tank so will look into sealing it, for the valve seats it is still, leaded fuel only, so at the moment I will use additive, but I do have a spare head, that I may get the valve seats replaced in. I’m just a little more north than Donnington, I’m in Doncaster.
Hi this is currently not my job, it’s always been something I do, buy restore and then use, I’m hoping to build this into something to help people out, my idea is I provide labour and the person picks up the parts bill, which helps me produce more content and keeps classics on the road so hopefully everyone wins. My email is thedestinationrenovation@gmail.com Thanks Richard
Just in the process of getting my GT250 running and sorted.. Did you get the tyres from Hitchcocks Looking forward to the wiring vid as thats the part im on with now
Really enjoyed this first episode, However would you please turn down the music while you are speaking it drowns out your voice for us with less than perfect hearing, ie Old Codgers!! Thanks
Hi I’m glad you enjoyed the video, I will of course turn it down, I’m very keen to take any help and advice in regards to the videos, myself and of course the Bike
Ive never actually heard one of these running in the flesh so I will be looking forward to that, as for the gearbox I’ve been told the 5 speeds are notoriously tricky, so will be interesting to see how the gearbox is when I get on to stripping the engine and box down,
I had a 250 Continental GT and a 250 Crusader Sports back in the mid 70's, the 5 speed box in the GT was a bit of a nightmare but the Sports 4 speed box was fine once you got used to it, I always liked the deep exhaust note of the Royal Enfield singles and moved on to a 350 Bullet then a 500 bullet, all were great bikes in my view and as the saying goes I wish I still had them..
Thanks a lot for this video. One of the best on RU-vid for this particular van. Did the job last Friday, this helped a lot during preparation. When torquing the bolts of the flywheel a block of wood between the teeth of the flywheel and the subframe worked very well to prevent it from rotating. For people who don’t own a pressure bleeder like me: bleeding can be done very fast by pumping the fluid directly into the slave cylinder using a simple oil can and a piece of 6 mm hose.
Great achievement. Mate is doing mine and I'm helping him on his 4 poster ramps. Would like to do it myself till I picked up the Flywheel from the merchants, thought it was nailed to the desk. 👍👍
