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any fool can do it this way my board is mounted in the camera dashboard camera and the USB connector fell off what I'd like to do is just lay it back where it goes put the iron on it let it get hot consider it on that way but I don't have anybody showing me this
If the pins are poking out the side of the connector and accessible to a soldering iron tip, you too can be a fool and solder it this way. 😉 If the pins are underneath, you may need to look for hot air or hot plate soldering videos...
What I'm trying to do is replace a missing female port on a Bluetooth speaker, it would be the only way to get the speaker charged and working again. The original missing port was a micro USB if that makes any difference. I'm replacing it with a USB c. On the speaker, there are two wires going from the battery to a tiny plug that is plugged into a circuit board. The old USB port is completely missing, the external opening for it is just above the circuit board. The replacement that I want to solder, has three wires extending from it's own tiny circuit board: red, blue, and black. I'm assuming red is hot, blue is neutral, and black is ground? And that's it. I can't really tell where the original port was soldered. I don't see any evidence of melting or scorching on the speakers circuit board. I'm certain that the wires from the port do not go directly to the battery, but to the circuit board. I just need to figure out where to solder the wires to the circuit board. Easy-peasy! Lol *_Edit --- I finally figured out that I need to remove the circuit board and wires from the used port I'm installing. So no wires at all, it solders on to the circuit board just like in this video._
That's interesting, I haven't come across any USB ports already mounted on pcbs with wires attached. But, it seems like you have been able to remove the wires and solder the USB connector onto the board!
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Huk3nkdiigg.htmlsi=IjyyT-Ov3Y_UjT0i This is the next step, that much closer to a real robot like people typically think of
Do i have to clean off the flux after this, and my USB c got ripped off accidently when I am removing my cable and there are some remaining pieces in the mounting holes, how can I remove these?
I would recommend that you always clean away the excess flux unless you are using solder containing a no-clean flux. Check the solder manufacturer's recommendations for the best flux remover to use. I used solder containing a water-soluble flux, and a flux pen containing water-soluble flux to ensure they were compatible and to make flux removal and clean-up easy. To remove pieces of component leads from their mounting holes without a good desoldering tool I usually heat the component pad, add some fresh solder, and then quickly whack the circuit board against the edge of my solder mat - I refer to this as slamming. This usually ejects the solder, including the component lead, right out of the solder pad and onto the solder mat. Just be careful about the direction the hot solder flies in!
Right!?! Maybe it's just easier for their pick and place machines to stick with all surface mount parts. Hopefully, more laptop manufacturers will make sure that their port connectors are at least mounted on easily replaceable mini circuit boards to make repairs easier.
It's important to use the same type of flux as is in your solder. I used the MG Chemicals water soluble flux pen for the video: mgchemicals.com/category/soldering-supplies/flux-pens/ Since Amazon differs by country, you're better to get one from your local electronics supplier. Here's a link to the Digi-Key (USA) site: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/flux-flux-remover/266?s=N4IgTCBcDaIM4HsA2ATApgJwAQDMkFcAPEAXQF8g
If theres one thing ive learned over the years soldering is that the difference between a novice and a skilled soldering job is using more flux, when in doubt while getting shorts just slap more onto it. Also tip for the people just getting into this, the reason solder fumes so much is the flux core of the solder burning way, you can let this happen with drag soldering but do try to minimize the time you spend just letting it burn off, thats flux that you paid for! Also mirobo thanks for the short and sweet video, would have loved something this concise as a beginner.
Thanks! Great advice. You're right - if there's a short between some of the connector pins after soldering, adding more flux and heating it again usually takes care of the problem.
Yes, the newest design of this board (UBMP4.3) has two 5.1k resistors connected between the USB-C CC1 and CC2 lines and ground to obtain 5V through a USB-C to USB-C cable. The board used in the video needs to be connected through a USB-A to USB-C cable to obtain 5V. An inexpensive alternative to get 5V from USB-C is this USB-C breakout board from Sparkfun: www.sparkfun.com/products/15100
That's a good question, and I haven't found an answer on the manufacturer's website: gct.co/connector/usb4085 . They may be designed that way to be more compatible with .8mm thick pcb substrates, or just for the lowest profile in a typical 1.6mm thick pcb. If anyone knows, I'd love to hear the explanation. :)
Could be for EMI reasons. USB-C can carry up to 40Gbit/s of digital data (so with a lot of high frequency harmonics). A few mm of extra length can already mess up the signal and cause excessive reflection and other issues. PS: I think there are other types of USB-C connectors that already contain the cross connection for the 2 sides of power and data pins and only expose the power, USB-2 and control data lines. The other pins are only really required for USB 3.2 Gen 1 & 2 and separate pins for both sides is only required for Gen 2x2 and USB 4 & Thunderbolt.
@@Ether_Void Good point! High frequencies and stub connections aren't a a great mix. Yes, I've seen some of those connectors, but this one was readily available, cheap, and stocked in large quantities at Digi-Key.
