this is a great video and will help me out for my installs for sure as i am going to use the same setup. thank you!… for the clutch handle, how much clearance is there? would a 1/2” spacer instead work or is 3/4” just perfect? Just wondering because I’m just going to fab up my own spacer when I get to install everything.
I just looked and there's less than 1/4" space between the lever and the bumper when you turn to freespool so I'd definitely go with the 3/4". If you went with the 1/2" I'm pretty sure you'd have to cut/grind the lever a little to clear the bumper.
You're supposed to flush it, which is why the 3 way valve is at the bottom of incoming and outgoing, but I haven't done it. The flush is with some vinegar mix to clean out any calcification you may have. Similar to the hard rock like stuff on heated humidifiers or perhaps coffee makers. Depending on how hard/soft your water is will determine how often you need to clean it. Manufacturer says once a year.
Haven't checked recently, but it was ~62-64F. I can get two showers going at once, one tub, or a shower and dish/clothes washer. Each of those add up to close to max of 3.5GPM at my 130F setting. I tried changing it lower and I can get up to 4GPM, but then I get complaints of it not being hot enough - I don't tell anyone and I get questions - "what happen to the hot water?" so people notice. I could go with it at a lower temp, just depends what people in the house want. Generally we all use the water at night and go to bed at different times so it hasn't been an issue.
The clamping pieces that mount to the body are easy if you use a 1/4 drive ratchet, 1/4 drive socket, and a T30 torx. Takes just a couple min to install that way.
If the screen is not staying on, in my experience, you are not getting power on all thres 50 amp circuits. If you have a smaller unit, you are not getting enough power on each individual feed line.
I haven't had to pull it back out, so i've left it as is. Now that I've done it, I know its a hassle, but easier to take than the cost of a new/aftermarket one. I say this as I don't have to mess with it right now...
Thank you! I have a 2015 R1 and it has the same type of tensioner. I was nervous about taking it apart but your video let me understand the mechanics and operation. Once I understood it, really not so difficult to reset these. I found a carpenters bar clamp worked perfect to add just the right squeeze and control. I put a ratchet socket on the body end so I could spin it and the rubber of the bar clamp held the piston end enough to keep it from spinning with the body. The trick is getting the squeeze pressure just right. It's not a lot.
Thanks. It took me a bit to figure out and was certainly frustrated (It can't be that complicated!!). Pressure is the key. Too little or too much and it won't go in. The tricky part is the very end when you need to get the ring set to hold it. Not much room to twist and get the ring clip set. Glad it helped.
Issue with multiple is the amp draw and other appliances. On a 200 amp panel, this is pulling max 150 on each phase (200 amp panel should have 200amps on 2 phases). So you are left with very little amps running on one panel. I have two 200amp panels. I had to move the other higher draw appliances (HVAC heat pump heat coils, oven, clothes dryer, etc) to the opposite panel so I didn't trigger the main 200 amp breaker. Its been running without issues, but if you need a larger GPM, you need gas, not electric.
I picked this guy up at an insurance auction for totaled SxS. Previous owner appeared to enter in a mud puddle/pond/lake that was much deeper than they thought. Water had gone over the dash, or at least splashed that far as mud had got behind steering column and behind dash (presented itself as dried mud water in an enclosed area). Sucked water into the intake, which on the Rmax is under the hood. When I bought it, it ran, but it had a very loud knock. After taking it apart it had spun bearings and tons of metal shavings all over and in the oil screen intake. Rest of the unit is great. 2023 and only had 350 miles. Unfortunately the Adventure Pro ($1000) and the rear seats are missing ($1000). I probably wont replace either.
Looks pretty. Hope you don't ever need it. If you look in the owner's manual, in the section about duty cycle it states that it is 5% out of 15 minutes. It says that you can use it for 45 seconds out of 15 minutes and then it has to sit unused for 14 minutes and 15 seconds. Warn and Smittybilt cost more but can be used almost continuously. Looks pretty though.
Thanks for the update on duty cycle. I've seen it but someone else may miss it. I've used it for much longer durations and never had an issue. Understood that there is a duty cycle, things get hot and you don't want to burn anything up, but its just a manufacturer's guidance. Similar to why we need 100 page instructions with 75 being warnings of some sort or other. Many people do not critically think about what they are doing. I do appreciate you bringing it up, something to consider when purchasing.
@@forayfog2276 Most winches will never be used. I go offroading a lot, and have only used my Warn winches a handful of times in the last twenty years. I avoid deep mud and a strap can manage most flat pulls to unstuck. They are most useful on uphill rock climbs and not a whole lot of those in the Midwest. A couple of the recovery channels on RU-vid use Badlands winches but they never mention how often they have problems and replace them.
The performance deviation you're seeing between the listed GPM (7) and your GPM (3) is downright mind-boggling! Are your water pipes insulated wherever they are coming into the property, and am I understanding correctly that even when you set it at 120ºF there was no discernible difference in throughflow? It strikes me that that's not performing correctly then. This unit is supposed to be able to produce hot water for the entire household and the chart shows two showers and a sink at water temp of 42ºF input still would produce 3.9 GPM! So either your water is much colder, or something may be clogging up the works, because you should in the worst scenario be getting more than only 3 GPM. In your comment below you indicated your water is coming in at ~63ºF, which means you should be getting 5.7 GPM when using 3 showers and two sinks, so even if we account for the higher temperature, derating by almost 50% is barely acceptable.
If you look at Stiebel's sheet for temp settings, the one you quote as 5.7gpm, it also shows the water temp set at 105F. I did set mine a little lower from 120F, 115F I believe, and did not see any discernable difference in GPM. Maybe if I set to 105 I'd have better GPM rates, but that wouldn't work for my family.
I was actually just looking at I had it set to 130F. It was limiting at 3.5gpm. I changed it down to 115F and it got to 4.5gpm before limiting. Any further down and it stopped limiting output. So I'd suspect that if you went down to 105F you probably could get the 5.7gpm in fine print. Marketing.. got to love it.
I'd like to offer a better way of doing the wiring for this unit. While it is true that the ground only has space for one connector, that doesn't mean that all three aren't supposed to be connected. Connecting them inside the unit is impractical and somewhat unsafe, but connecting them on a bus bar inside a box before it is fed into the unit, and using a heavy lug for a 4 AWG large ground wire inside the unit is the better way to go. That way you've got rock solid ground connections from the unit to the panel.
I'm kind of surprised at the monthly cost for this unit. I am planning on building a larger house with five bathrooms that I was planning on installing like four of these units throughout the house. But it seems like the electricity cost would be a lot. I'm also curious if installing more than one of these units would help with some of the issues you talked about in terms of gallons per minute when multiple people are using hot water..
If you can, go with natural gas, they have a much higher BTU so you can yield higher gpm. Then you can put one in the attic for bathrooms and one in the basement for main floor/basement. If you can't go with gas, you'll need to do some hybrid heat pump/electric for best cost. Your power feed into the house would need to be significant to use multiple. I've thought about doing that as well, but let's say you have 3 units each pulling 150amp (300 total, 150 from each phase), you're already exceeding most residential panels (200amp, 400amp total - each phase). Can you do it, yes. Is it that much better.. debatable. Less energy use, if a unit fails you still have someplace to go for a hot shower while it gets fixed, more units = more likely one will have an issue, more complex water feed setup, perhaps manifold setup.
@@forayfog2276 this is all good advice, thank you! I’m going with heat pump electric after much debate. Seems to be the best choice. On demand is great with gas but not electric
Similar concept to what I'm talking about above. The only thing is you want to have the ground wire that is mounted inside to be a heavy gauge (the hole easily accommodates 4 AWG), and trying to tie those all together inside the enclosure is far too cramped. It's much easier outside the enclosure in a separate box, using a heavy lug on a small bus bar for the 4 AWG ground wire and mounting the other three wires onto the bus bar, which gives you rock solid ground in both directions.
Pending what you mean with flat tow harness.. I use the RV3 supplemental brake system and all the pieces; 1) RVI brake 3 2) wireless breakaway 3) battery charger 4) Tire Patrol (TPMS) The Roadmaster Nighthawk tow bar comes with the female plug for the Jeep and matching male on the tow bar side. I wired the positive to the RVI battery charger and then to the battery. Wireless break away goes to battery. Both have inline fuses I remove when not camping so there's no power draw. They should go in sleep mode, but I just pull the fuses to not worry about it. I went with RVI to have all these pieces together and have it visible on a tablet while driving. Pretty happy with it minus two things: 1) RVI all works together via wifi 2.4GHz channel 1. My dash radio/nav is a tablet that sticks to the dash via magnet/hub. They talk wifi 2.4 as well. I just changed the channel on it to 9 to see if it helps as I would loose TPMS signals from time to time. 2) I wish it would brake a little more. It mostly comes on during medium to hard braking. I never see it during light braking unlike my trailer brakes. For the lights, I had wireless brake lights that have magnets from previous towing and I just use them instead of messing with Jeep lights. On the RV side the 7pin is used for charging Jeep and the 4 pin is used simultaneously to run the wireless brake/signal lights. Just seems much easier than messing with more wiring or running additional wires to rear lights AND I can always move it to the next vehicle.
That was helpful! I needed to do the same thing. But i thought the clear data was going to clear everything at once. I’m glad to see it doesn’t. Thanks
Yo agradeceria mucho si muestran como se instala un calentador de esa misma marca pero no tan grande, el que tengo comprado es el Stiebel electron Tempra 24 plus Por favor me pueden dar esa asesoria y que materiales se necesitan aparte de los asesorios que trae el paquete de este modelo o tipo ? si requiere otros alambres electricos mas gruesos o mejor dicho de mayor calibre y cuantos pies aproximadamente se necesitan estando el tablero de Brecks de amperaje muy cerca asi como lo muestra este video🎉
The longer the distance from the panel to the heater, the larger wire you will need. There are websites like this that have tables to show you: learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/wire-thickness There were a number of items needed 1) Three dual pull 50 amp breakers: www.amazon.com/Q250-50-Amp-Double-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00002N7KX 2) Wire/cable 3) Conduit for cable and plugs to secure conduit to Tempra 4) On/off valves with flush connectors: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085Q8DL8B 5) 2' flexible hoses with proper connectors to fit Tempra and PVC (sharkbite in my case, or make extensions with PVC and glue to threaded end. One I used was this but make sure ends fit your design: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FFMYP33/
Installed a few days ago. Easy install. Glad I picked this one over others. It will probably be "up" at all times. However nice to have the option to fold it down in just a couple seconds if I ever want to carry more, bigger, longer stuff and won't need to remove it. Just fyi. I have a 2 door soft top, back seats removed, and full cargo mat that goes to the back of the front seats. I drive in "stage coach" 95% of the time
Where did you get the cable in the fuse box for the constant power to the dash? I’m also setting up my 392 for flat towing. 👍🏽 Oh never mind I just realized you flash the web site on screen…..I missed it the 1st time. 🤣
Yep. Here's a quick link: www.cooltechllc.com/2018-jeep-wrangler-jl/111-jl-powerport-kit.html Note it doesn't come with a fuse, so remember to put the fuse in the new cable when you take it out. First time I did it, I thought I was doing something wrong as it had no power; was missing the fuse.
Comment please on any possible benefit to running 2 units, both 24 or 29 or 1- 24 and 1- 29 in series. I have a large house in northern Idaho, inlet water 45 degrees from a well, lots of power (I think) and breaker panels are literally mounted above the 2 existing 50 gallon tank heaters that I wish to get rid of for space reasons, that are currently ran in series, one does 45 to 80??? feeding the other that does 80??? to 125 0r whatever. If you don't set the set temp to 140, are you pulling 50A x 3? Anyone see a huge fireball in northern Idaho next month, perhaps my idea didn't work.
That's a tough one.. My thoughts: 1) If you do buy a unit, go without the 'plus'. The non-plus version does not limit outgoing flow based on temp. Let it heat up as much as it can and move on to the second one in series to try and heat up more. Coming from 45F is going to be hard, but series may actually work. The non-plus versions are usually used for floor heating (circulating hot water in tubes under tile and so forth) 2) Two units is going to be a LARGE amount of power. These are dual breakers, so when it says 3x50amps, its actually 50amps on both phases or up to 300amps (50*3 -> 150amps * 2 (dual breakers) = 300amps for a single unit max. When I'm running max flow, ~ 3gpm, I see ~45amps on each breaker, 45*3->135amps, *2 for dual breaker or 270amps total. If you were running two units, you would need to have at least two separate circuit breaker panels (normally each one is rated 150-200amps per phase on each panel) and you would be using the majority of power on each panel leaving very little for other high draw items like an oven, hvac, etc. I won't say it won't work, but seems unlikely. 3) The two tanks in series you have now (like I had previously) are usually put in place for larger homes with high hot water volume use. There are separate thermostats for each one, but the temp set is normally the same for both. Generally hot water comes from 2nd tank to the house and while hot water is emptying from the tank, the 1st tank feeds hot water in the 2nd so you have hot water filling the 2nd. As the 1st tank fills from the well, the temp drops dramatically (45F entering) but the 2nd tank still has hot water feeding the house. It would be similar to an 80g tank have 4 elements rather than two 40g with 2 elements. Its just a little more efficient and fault tolerant to have two tanks. 4) It would take some work and you may not want to do it, but you could look at solar water heater feeding one of these tankless to bring the water temp up and not require 2 tankless units.
Sorry, I just post to help others so I don't check too often. I didn't check before I added the winch or tow loops, but after there was only about 1-1.5" of travel between shock and bump stop which is not much. Ride was fine, but when you looked at it from the side you could see it sloping to the front. After the spacer I have 2.5-3" of travel to the bump stop, which should really help out on the trails. If I didn't add a winch, I wouldn't do it. If you add the weight in the front (total with the tow loops, winch, winch plate was about 140lbs) I would just to get that extra travel, which is nice if you are doing trails which is why you added the winch. I don't have any regrets installing it. My biggest issue is finding time to hit the trails... :(
I've never had it trip the breakers and the highest pull I've seen is ~ 47amps across all 3 breakers which are dual, so 47x6, 282amps. If you have a 200amp breaker panel, you actually have 400 amps, phase 1 being 200 and phase 2 being 200. Generally you double panel amperage, but learn or hire someone if this is not clear. In my case, which incoming cold water at ~62F and the outflow set at 130F, I get 3gpm. If someone runs a tub full hot and someone runs a shower full hot, the unit regulates the outflow to ensure the set temp is reached on the outflow. The unit throttles the outgoing gpm to make it reach that temp (if it didn't throttle outgoing water, the output would be below the set temp which it can't reach based on incoming water temp and gpm). When it does throttle, you'll see less pressure from the faucet/shower head. It will still be the right temp, but how fast it comes out is effected. My family can generally keep track of who is doing what so its not an issue, but sometimes dishwasher kicks off or washing machine and it will change the temp of the outgoing water until you adjust the handles in a shower/faucet. I'm still happy with it. Nothing is perfect. I would install again for me, but I wouldnt buy a house with electric tankless, it would have to be gas tankless.
Ok. Thank you for the info. I appreciate it. It sounds like I’ll just stick to a tank as I’m all electric at my house. Yeah, I noticed gas ones can handle more.
Ok. Thank you for the info. I appreciate it. It sounds like I’ll just stick to a tank as I’m all electric at my house. Yeah, I noticed gas ones can handle more.
Ok. Thank you for the info. I appreciate it. It sounds like I’ll just stick to a tank as I’m all electric at my house. Yeah, I noticed gas ones can handle more.
@@forayfog2276 Ok. Thank you for the info. I appreciate it. It sounds like I’ll just stick to a tank as I’m all electric at my house. Yeah, I noticed gas ones can handle more.
My last JKS had a Blue Ox hitch on it. Just got a JLU Rubicon, and looking at which hitch to install - Blue Ox or Roadmaster. Was interested in this setup, but seeing what it is, how it is and lack of instructions - think I'll pass on the Maxximus. Thx for showing the install.
The install for a Blue Ox base plate or Maximus 3 Tow Loop is pretty much the same. But with the Maximus 3 Loops there isn't much exposed when you are not towing. I damage my Blue Ox base plate since it's so low and exposed when not towing. On my JL I'm going with the Maximus 3 Loops. If you aren't mechanically inclined, both would cause an issue on install but so far it's been pretty easy for the Maximus 3.
The fairlead protects the line going into the drum and the line is spooling under the drum. Visually its spooling ~3/4"-1" under the fairlead (fairlead higher than spool) when the line is fully retracted. Without testing, I'd guess (and makes sense) that after you bring the line out a ways it should be going straight in, meaning on level ground the fairlead and the line is spooling directly onto the drum if you had 1/2 the drum or more unspooled so it actually fits better with the spacer.
I believe there's a graph on the side of the box that shows incoming water temp = GPM. The colder the incoming water, the slower the GPM (also related to temp you have it set at). I have it set at 130F, that's were the better half wants it. At that temp and incoming at ~63F it starts throttling the water flow at 3 GPM to make it 130F output. I tried setting it lower, 120F, but I didn't see much difference in GPM to warrant changing it lower. If you are in FL and incoming water temp is 70F or higher it might make 7GPM, but I think that would have to be perfect conditions (higher incoming temp and lower set/output temp)
The trick to drilling the skid plate cut outs with a hole saw is to drill them from the back side. I hit mine with a small pilot hole and then just go slow. I used a standard 1.5" wood whole saw that was new before starting.
Seems you have a full house and still like the way it works. Great. My tankless is less than 7 ft from two bathrooms. It’s also 6 ft away from the power panel. We were able to plan it all out before we built the house. Thx for the vid and explanation.
I do like it and part of that is because I could install it all myself. If I was going to pay someone to do it, I'd go with gas. Just remember that if you have any other high amp draws to put them on a different panel or if you plan to have an electric car get a new panel to support it. Hot water with the 36+ works great with 2 faucets/showers pulling water. A bathtub uses all 3gpm so you can't use anything else. As long as you are paying attention to hot water simultaneous use, it can work for any size household. If I was building a house, I'd probably go with smaller electric units in several places (bedrooms, washing machine, kitchen) or a gas per floor. Its also nice to have redundancy (more than one) in case an issue comes up you still have hot water somewhere till you get it fixed.
@@forayfog2276 What state are you in? We’re in Florida where ground water is very warm and we only have a 27 k unit. It’s just me and my wife so it’s easy to stagger use if we need. I wouldn’t recommend any tankless if ground water is in the 50s or lower. Thanks for your honest and informative video.
A tip from a Licensed Electrician.... ALWAYS wire the devices FIRST... then land the wires on the breakers. Safety First is always the smart way to go.
What if I have 3 phase/3live wire main circuit breaker and supplying to 3 sets of 3 phase/ 3live wire sub circuit breaker. How the CT sensor should be clip?
Was your problem of combining the balance evwr solved? I bought one to try and so far like it even though its been off on the mains by alot. I plan to buy two and work with chat over the accuracy. Can the data from two be combined now?
As far as I know you can nest the Vues' (one under another as in a sub panel), but you can still not have them side by side, IE two Vues in a single panel to monitor all breakers in a panel.
It would be very very usefull, to know if somebody measured the actuall lowest power in Kw, that this heater can work, even with the lowest available gpm.
Just curious, how would that be helpful? Why not buy a unit rated for the power that can be supplied (or a much smaller unit) versus one requiring power much higher than can be supplied? The lowest I've seen this unit pull is 90amp on a single phase and its dual, so 180amps.
If I understand the last minute of your video the canister 2 actually was connected to a faulty breaker? Who would have guessed. Your power monitor really came in handy! Can you confirm that reading of low current on #2 was due to breaker or is that part of the normal operation of the Tempra to adjust power?? I know that is how they work to maintain temp on my NON plus models, but the question is would the power reduction be fairly even across the canisters? Thanks for the helpful video.
