I’ve a 2015 G650GS and the rear swing arm bolt, connects to frame and motor mount is hell to get out. Yours just slipped right out. Have you heard of that? I measured the room temp bolt diameter at 17mm and the room temp bushing at 13mm.
Sorry but I am not impressed at all with this guys methods. I did watch the video and certainly learned some things on what NOT to do. No wonder he lost camchain timing! I did my valve adjustment for the first time and it was easier than what this guy made it seem, a bit complicated but if you are careful and patient it is doable. Now why the factory made it such a PITA to start with, I have no idea. I think it was to discourage owners from working on their own bike and to just take it to the dealer and pay a fortune. Thankfully these bikes hold their valve dimensions a long time.
Hello, thank you for your video. I myself am a big fan of the BMW F650. If you want, you can have a look at my modified motorcycle here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RPlZiyW9xbg.html Greetings from Germany. Frank
when and if you have been a mecanic a long time, you develop a feel for torque, and in most cases torque values are based on fastener size ( and if not, you have been a mechanic a long time..and so you read manuals and note the exceptions ( like those pesky one use head bolts in VW diesels)... So if you ask said mechanic to torque something to 14 or 30 or 90 ft pounds.. by feel..and then check him with your torque wrench. chances are damn good he has done it with-in the acceptable variation. Extending this to hitting the torque values using an L shaped allen wrench.. well lets hope it really isnt critical.
Friend Good day. I have a BMW F650 Funduro. And it's about it to heating. The fan works Bin. But it does not know that it could cause the Reecentation. If you can help me. thanks
hello good video I have a f650gs and one month ago I went out of motion from there and could not start it turn on and off and I changed the gasoline pump the cv filter gasoline clean the injector I changed the filter
THANKS FLASH YOU ARE A GOOD MECHANIC, I HAVE READ A LOT FROM THE SITE F650.COM AND I HAVE WATCHED ALL OF YOUR VIDEOS. I CANT GET A SOCKET INTO MY SWINGARM PIVOT BOLT AKA THE FRAME BOLT. YOU SAY ITS 22MM AND I CANT GET THE SOCKET TO FIT IN THAT HOLE WHERE THE BOLT IS. THE BMW PARTS WEBSITE SAYS 22MM TOO.
Glad i watched this as the bolt is missing on the rocker cover on a dead 650, had it running its like a chimney on the bolt hole ,any advice apart from the obvious pressurising from the cylinder .
I tried to do the same, but with new pads the disc won't fit in between. The pistons don't seem to want to move back any more (sticking out of caliper by ~4mm). Both pads and disc are from Brembo, so not noname. Could it be that they are made too thick?? I tried bleeding brakes a bit, but this doesn't seem to change anything. Any hints?
Awesome video, but the pads can be changed without taking the wheel off. If you look at the Haynes Manual for the F650 it shows how to do this step by step. I just did it and it took like 5minutes, I'll take a video next time I change them. The trick is putting the inner pad in first, securing it with the pin and then putting the outer pad in. Putting pin and circlip back. I love the F650, it's really awesome to work on.
You are a life saver, my good sir 👍 t Just bought a bmw 650 for my wife and needed to change brake pads. Front was no issue but thought i had to take off the axle on the back. But read your comment and tried it and no issue at all. Just had a cylinder push back-device (for cars originally) which fitted somewhat and slid the new pads right in.
Remove old chain, clean the underside of the chain guard, drive area of engine and both sprockets and tensioners thoroughly. Clean hands to avoid cross contaminating the old grease and grit into the new chain. Shorten new chain. Oil or grease the sprockets and tensioners. Forget the silicone on the split link. What good is that going to do, other than ensure it rusts quicker than the rest without grease or oil on metal? And they're not collars on the split link, they're annular grooves that the spring clip locates into. It's bad practice to use hard faced clamping forces on a chain to fit it. Use a brass or copper (from 22mm copper tube) slip on face grip. Also, locking nuts on the axle adjusters are a good idea. Finally, if you're not certain of the accuracy of the adjustment numbers in the windows, use two straight edges clamped (not too firmly to avoid distortion) to the back wheel and line them up with the front wheel to verify back wheel alignment.
thank you for the video, excellent to practice especially with the tubes as if you get stranded on tour, (Puncture) tyre irons and spare tube in top box and way you go ;-)))
