Thanks a lot for the input :)

Thanks. It is still up for consideration. But it will be a slide in and out solution, so that the battery can also be used to power other things than the ATV. I’m thinking that just a couple of bolts will clamp the battery box to the frame and the sliding rails 😊

Yes, I can’t wait for that myself. I’m travelling to Norway 🇳🇴 for 13 months this summer, so the plan is that the ATV needs to be running by end August so I can bring it to some real mountains and not just the flat fields of Denmark. I’m currently finishing my master thesis, so this is why things are not progressing so quickly at the moment, however I plan to accelerate more through the process. 😊

Thank a lot 😀

Hi James, Note taken. Thanks for the advice.

Good question. -I have calculated with a consumption of 0.15 kWh/km, which was determined by converting actual gas power 4x4 ATV consumption measurements to energy consumption in joules and then to kWh. With my 9 kWh battery pack I will be able to go (9 [kWh]/0.15 [kWh/km]) = 60 [km] in unfavorable conditions and rough terrain (cold and muddy). Leisurely driving would probably give me around 100 km range :)

@@gorm1106 man that is sweet! I’ll have to try something like this myself

ITSMART Yes, U definately should. It’s a fun and educating/interesting process. The only thing that surprised me bit with such an electric vehicle conversion is the cost of components, where motor, batteries and controller are the most expensive. - But Luckily there are some cheaper components out there if one is not into a to expensive project. Check out Goldenmotors webpage, they make nice products also at a fair price. Also if one can live with lesser range and more frequent charging, this is also a good alternative, to reduce excessive costs.

Thanks a lot 😊

Yeah, I'm not that found of angle grinders. They are angry machines if one is not careful with them. 😅

Hi Tyler, Yes er did. However er didn’t leave room for the BMS to sit inside the battery box, so that will have to go outside.

have you decided which brand of bms to use? I drove daly bms on miss 20s but the balancing is a joke on them and it is only passive balancing

@@goelectric8269 Yes I have heard that it is difficult to find sufficiently effective BMSs. I have been looking at this: www.aliexpress.com/item/32826469363.html?srcSns=sns_Copy&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=20274371692&aff_fcid=d1c59efa0a99486a9fbcc1e5a8522909-1645287920955-05724-_mKDkDoF&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_mKDkDoF&aff_platform=default&sk=_mKDkDoF&aff_trace_key=d1c59efa0a99486a9fbcc1e5a8522909-1645287920955-05724-_mKDkDoF&shareId=20274371692&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=e3c54fc5c42b46ab859aa58a39056a78&afSmartRedirect=y Or alternatively: www.aliexpress.com/item/32959837122.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.8.638c15dc0WQSyA&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.266918.0&scm_id=1007.40050.266918.0&scm-url=1007.40050.266918.0&pvid=d21f23e0-e05a-4045-915d-fec462011d1c&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.266918.0,pvid:d21f23e0-e05a-4045-915d-fec462011d1c,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238108%231977&pdp_ext_f=%257B%2522sku_id%2522%253A%252266551856122%2522%252C%2522sceneId%2522%253A%252230050%2522%257D&pdp_pi=-1%253B720.83%253B-1%253B-1%2540salePrice%253BDKK%253Brecommend-recommend I have tried contacting the sellers to hear if they think their systems are sufficient enough to handle the system that i have. :)

Yep, I agree. The only slight thing there is with these LiFePO4 batteries, is that they have a longer lifetime if they are under compression in the battery pack. As they are charged and discharged they grow and shrink slightly, causing the electrodes and electrolyte to get disordered. Therefore in my case there will not be an air gap between them, but maybe I’ll make a cooling grill in the top of the battery box, if it becomes an issue. I plan to have a temperature gauge with the BMS, so I can monitor them 😊 However the avg. temperature in DK is around 8-9 deg C, so I plenty cold outside as well.

Yeah, me too. The plan is to have the whole project finished, with a running ATV, by the end of July. I’m at the final year of my master studies. Hopefully there will be enough hours to to in the project 😊

Hi Benedykt, Thanks, i'm actually in the process of editing the third episode right now. Yes, i defiantly think that 2x20 kW motors would plenty enough power in a 4x4 quad. If you know Review Machines Worldwide channel, they show a 4x4 CF-moto X8 with 2x22 kW motors, and they seam very strong. Link here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lWPJmyOQYqI.html&ab_channel=ReviewMachinesWorldwide However the Motenergy ME1507 would also be powerfull enough for a 4x4 quad. It delivers 44 kW = 70 HP peak power in bursts of 10 seconds, which should bring you well up to speed. To do this you would need a 100V battery pack capable of delivering a current of up to 700A. I would go with just one motor. It is cheaper and then you dont need an extra or dual controller either. Motors and controllers are the most expensive in an electric build. -And also the batteries of course. BR. GOL

@@gorm1106 sorry to be a stickler but 44kw is equivalent to 59hp. Idk why you stated that a 100v battery at 700a would be necessary to achieve this 44kw as 100V x 700a = 70kw???

Hi @@vincentpernicano3277, sorry for a late answer. Yeah you are right about the 44kW being equivalent to 59 hp and not 70 hp, thanks for the correction there. Concerning the kW however there is a difference in directly relating pure electrical power to "mechanical" power (power from a rotating object e.g. electrical motor core and shaft) . We calculate electrical power from P = U x I as you write. However motor shaft output power is calculated from the relation P = T x RPM, where T is the torque delivered from the motor output shaft and RPM is the angular velocity in revolutions per minute. If we had a motor with an efficiency of 100% we could use the relation for electrical power to describe the power output from the motor shaft. In reality though the efficiency of electric motors lie somewhere between 80 and 90% and therefore the motor will draw a larger current when delivering e.g. 44kW than what the for electrical power formula suggests. For reference see the me1507 motor test results done by evea-kartmasters.fr: file:///C:/Users/Gorm-/Downloads/ME1507%20&%20BLE4%2096V%20700A.pdf BR. Gorm

@@gorm1106 no worries! Absolutely right about the efficiency loss there, not to mention losses from the chain and sprockets, plus losses dependent on terrain. Gets outside the scope of a youtube build series conversation pretty quickly lol

Sorry for late answer, but here you go anyway: I would recommend Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries (LiFePO4). I have bought mine from AliExpress. Link: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000419616241.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.18354c4d4ExZ0E These are 3.2V 90Ah batteries from a brand called VariCore and are also used by others who have made electric conversions (The Inja: ru-vid.com). I would recommend going with a 36V battery pack consisting of 12 of these batteries in series, giving you a total of 3kWh capacity. This should be plenty enough power for your snow blower. A 24V setup with 8 batteries in series would also be enough for most snow-blower applications with 2.2 kWh of capacity. For reference this electric snow blower: egopowerplus.com/two-stage-snow-blower-snt2400/, - has 0.840 kWh of capacity. Hope this is helpfull. BR. GOL

- For my ATV conversion i'm using 32 LiFEPO4 batteries in series. This gives me a 100V, 9ah battery pack, which equates to 9kW of nominal power and a peak power of approximately 30kW, since the batteries can discharge with up to 3-4 times their nominal capacity in Amps. Another great thing about the Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries it their long life, with around 3500-4000 cycles (charge and discharge) with almost 100% capacity still remaining. BR. GOL

@@gorm1106 I'm thinking about converting an ATV to elelctric, to be my workhorse. What do you estimate you have spend on the batteries? I've looked up the batteries you mentioned, and they are around €65 ex shipping a piece, in that case i guess you have spend around €1k on batteries😱

@@pinocolada4254 Hi, that sound like a cool project. Yes the batteries are expensive. This was my exact cost for 32 cells including shipping and taxes: US $ 1,544.37 I haven't been able to find any that was cheaper and still trustworthy dealers.

@@gorm1106 that's quite some money. I saw what you payed for the motor as well, you'r down some change. I migth have to think about my project for a while. Maybe i'll start from scratch and make the frame and suspension myself as well, with more dedication i won't chicken out on the high er costs😇

Hi Martin, -The quad cost me: 500 USD. -The motor cost me: 1500 USD. - The Arctic Cat rear axel cost: 450 USD. BR. GOL

Hi Lopanj, Sorry for late answer, i have been way to bussy with exams the past two months... -The motor is designed in USA by a company called Motenergy located near Milwaukee - Wisconsin. However the motor is build in China. The build quality is perfect. BR. GOL

tnx bro.

I have just finished a conventering of my bashan 200cc with qs 138v3 engine that power is enough for me but should be fun and see the effect on this engine

Hi Tim, Sorry for such a late answer! It is probably way to late and not so much worth now, but here you go anyway: There is mainly two ways for deciding the motor size. 1st is to look at the HP of you vehicle and convert this to kW. If i'm not completely mistaken your quad has around 14.5 HP which equates to 10.8 kW. From this power you could try and find electric motors with equivalent power-ratings. One thing to keep in mind however is that the typical electric motor as more torque than its equivalent internal combustion engine in terms of the power. The 2nd way to determine the "size" of the electric motor is by considering the torque needed. This is expressed in the acceleration or pulling power that you will achieve, and is determined by Newton's 2nd law: F=m*a. (Here F is the force between wheel and ground and can be related to the torque following the relation F=T/r, where T is the torque at the wheel axel and r is the radius of the tyre). Here is a nice link with explanation for doing the torque calculation: electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/how-to-calculate-maximum-initial-acceleration-of-the-motorcycle.11547/ Another easier way is to have a look at Miromax webpage. Here they relate the kW of the electric motors that they sell, to ccm^2 of quad/motorbike engines. Have a look: www.miromax.lt/en/m-6/c-39/c-45-brushless_bldc_motor_with_permanent_magnet#to_products For your application this MeMax-1719 motor would probably be suitable: www.miromax.lt/en/m-6/c-39/c-45-brushless_bldc_motor_with_permanent_magnet/product-720-bldc__pmsm_brushless_motor_memax-1719_-_nominali_power_48kw72kw____64ag97ag___240cm3360cm3#to_products The controller that i'll be using is a Kelly KLS-8080I/IPS controller capable of handling 700A from battery to motor, which is just what i need for my application. Link here: kellycontroller.com/shop/kls-8080i-ips/ -Hope this helps a bit, even though you may have found something out by now. BR. GOL

@@gorm1106 how much power are you going to take out of the engine? you write that the controller can give 700 amp I take 200amp out of min. that it gives a good push because torque is so high the best thing with an electric motor is that the power comes immediately 😁

@@goelectric8269 I’m aiming for around 30kW at peak power. The batteries that I am putting in are LIFePO4 with 3.2V and 90ah per cell. They can peak discharge with around 3-4 times their nominal amperage for approximately 10 sec., which means~300A. I’m going for 32 cells in series which gives me 100V, so the power I’m going to have safely available from the battery pack is 30kW. -However the motor is able to go as high as 44kW and a bit above 😊

@@gorm1106 do you have or should you buy cells? are you shopping from China? Do you have a salesperson you can recommend?