Building miniature Internal combustion & Steam and Model Engines and casting foundry projects. Also Whirligigs, whirligig propellers and wings Leave a comment if you need more information on a video. Send a video or picture of your project ! *After the revolution George Washington brought "whirlygigs" home to the children at Mount Vernon" Be sure to take a look at the Community page and check out behind the scenes pictures from the videos as well as up-coming topics. Leave a Comment to let me know what you like. There are more Pictures and Information on my new Website - gwheyduke.com/
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Please can you help a useless female 😂... Is this possible to do using say a mitre blick and hand saw... I am desperate to make a small scale whirligig but do not own any power tools, apart from basic hand drill etc thank you... Super info vids
I'm still trying to hone in on my settings. I obviously wasn't center as mine looked like the one you showed that didn't have a through cut on the rear. Another issue I'm having is, I'm using 1/8 for my whirlygig blades. With one saw blade the slot it too small with 2 the slot is too big. How are you getting such a good fit? Thanks in advance. Love your video
The jig appears to make two different angles, at the first station , and thenecr to last station, counting from the operator's position. Is that correct?
Yes, that correct. With 6 cutting stations, the result is 3 hubs for each opposite spinning direction. The angled cross boards are simply supports for the hub blanks. You could install more with a longer sled. With a little modification this method would also work for round hubs.
What size hubs do you need, and how many? I have a just a few left. You would need to make your own blades; the slots are approximately 3/16-inch width.
Yes, I have made a few in the past. It would depend on the type and size of the propeller you need. Usually around $25 USD for a typical wooden propeller.
The cutting jig for the wing hubs is simply a small table saw sled (16" long by 13" wide) made of 1/2" plywood. The 5 miter gage boards in the inside are 3/4" by 2 1/2 " set at 35 Degree angle to the center line (where the blade comes up in the middle). 7/8" hub blanks are clamped vertically to the 6 stations directly over the blade. It helps to glue a vertical support to hold the blanks (90 degrees) up right. You have to make two passes with each set of hubs. ( One one on each end of the blanks and of course you must flip them over after the first cut while being careful to keep them oriented the same way as the first cut. ( don't accidently flip them around or you will have the slots in the same direction.) Here's the video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FLTYotEvtOY.html
wow this is so great, I watched first full version, came back to double check, found No Frills version. Thanks again. made my first hub ever and then some ! its a nice change to use my table saw for fun instead of work
Great question! I use a benchtop drill press to make sure the hole is 90 degrees to the center line of the whirligig body or base. It's best to drill it before painting, that way you can draw a centerline through the main part of the body, then I clamp the body to a machinist's 90-degree angle plate, you could use a carpenter square and a block of wood to hold it straight while you drill the pivot hole bearing hole.
Hook up the 2000 volt neon sign transform to catch your evil twin whirlygig napper. Its funny how a little bit of flat wing can create so much lift in a breeze. Those collars and brackets are a good idea.
You could form the strip in a wider piece of metal, and drill the holes first, before forming, then cut the formed material into slices with a cutoff wheel, making a few at once
Ithink laminating the prop would be easier, less stock removal. If you could use a circular saw to cut the slots , it should follow the line more precisely, again resulting in less sanding.
Thanks for causing me to think how I can take your very good idea and make it a little more user friendly. Like your videos very much. Keep them coming.
@@richardmccann4815 Well I'm still "thinking of hoe to make it a little more user friendly". Once I figure it out, I might Share, might not as well since it might be a "bother"!
Very nice George! I enjoyed it! I hope to have my Canada Goose mounted this spring/summer. I'll try and send you a video when it is up and the wind is blowing. I have to make a two piece pole for it that is 12 foot high. The goose has a 54 inch wingspan so I need it up high. The first section of the pole will be 4 feet with an eight foot section on top. Angle brackets will couple the two pieces together. That way I can take it down if need be. Enjoyed, take care!
Diode laser cutters are cheap now. I can cut a hub with variable pitch blades in a few minutes... without buying expensive tools and risking serious injuries fiddling around. I'm an old school modeler and I know the ropes; It has been a game changer for me- and tons of how-to's and resources on RU-vid make it simple to learn. Overall these machines are "oh, so useful" for all of these builds and more. I still incorporate standard basic tool-ware, but lasers are the future if you want repeatable production. They're also useful for quick prototypes for testing, design and development of ideas. I love using- mine and the price is unbeatable for what you get.
