Thanks for the video. I've been wanting one of these tents for years now. Right now, Cabela's has the 4 person for $100 off. I remember you used to have the option of getting the aluminum poles or fiberglass. They no longer offer the metal poles. I don't understand why? Now I'm worried and unsure if I want this now. My other 4-season tents have aluminum or steel poles. Don't know how fiberglass would hold up to winter conditions. Wondering what you think about that, and if it's still worth the investment?
Glade you got it.But I would set myself on fire before but another hdpi I went threw three rebuild in a year.went merc zero issues.And much easier to do maintenance
I hear you. I was worried that this one might not last even after I fixed it but two seasons it has been running amazing. No issues whatsoever and have a few trips at lake of the Ozarks running long distances. Plugs burn a nice light tan color and it’s just been a fantastic motor. I am very particular about warming it up before going to full power and also I never go from wide open to shutoff either. Also I don’t run any ethanol fuel.
Had a 05 act up this weekend. Plugs a day old , running it in a tourn about 55 mph when i felt what I can only describe as a slip then a loss of power. Now idles a lil rough and won’t get on plane. What should I check in what order to diagnose? Any help is appreciated
It sounds like it could possibly be the neutral switch that makes the engine only fire on 4 cylinders when in neutral at idle. I would probably start by connecting a water source and run it while monitoring for a change in engine sound between neutral and in gear. Mine idles rougher when in neutral for sure. Also, I would pull the plugs back out and see how they are burning and run a compression check at the same time. Go back to basics, do I have compression, fuel and spark everywhere first.
i would've almost instantly thought of twisted sleeves or an intake blockage. if its getting plenty of fuel no use going further there. same with spark. thats crazy those morons where so sloppy. every rebuild i do i mark each piston with a red sharpie and an arrow as the markings on the pistons are hard to see. glad you got it sorted what a pain!
Many thanks for sharing this unbelievable story. I am impressed by how you went through everything step by step to finally arrive at the craziness of installing the wrong piston - jeez who would think of that!!!. I have made a couple of rebuilds of Optimax and I love it. I am not trained but I guess pretty mechanically inclined. Your story tells me to take nothing for granted on older motors. Many thanks
Wow, what a story! I own an ‘05 HPDI 250 which I purchased with a bad piston. Rebuilt with pistons supplied by Hydro-Tec. I am also an A&P mechanic so I maintain meticulously. I could feel your frustration before you found the piston issue. “Good find” as we say in aviation maintenance!
Thanks for sharing and taking time to find the one problem. Mystery engines can be challenging. Just when an experienced marine tech thinks they have seen everything the next lesson is on the way. I call these bush engines... Bottom line is when an engine wont perform correctly it's generally one simple malfunctioning item complicated by a plethora of misdiagnosed remedies performed by novices who attempted to cross over to perform marine service specialist operations. Generally speaking these guys are under the influence of some form of self medication in light of they are wanting to relax by spending time on water. They generally create many more malfunctions to where the boat is parked in the bushes because of wrong or incorrectly installed parts.
I have the same motor except its a 300. Fresh rebuild last year, destroyed a stanless prop last weekend at 5700rpm and got a wicked vibration and slight knock that comes in at 3k and stops at 3300. Still runs top notch but not sure if it's a piston or lower unit issue. Dropping off at HydroTech tomorrow. Lake of the Ozarks boat.
My m&p 2.0 compact is my second favorite grip. The first is honestly my tx22 you wouldn't think it but it fits like a glove haven't felt a grip I like better yet. That said I'd take my m&property over my tx22 any day but wish taurus would make a tx 9mm same everything besides caliber and what has to be change for the extra power
I have the Smith&Wesson M&P9 2.0 full size with 4.25 barrel and 17 round flush magazines. Very comfortable,durable and reliable gun. Zero malfunctions when I took it to the range.
Drop both the Glock n the M&P 2.0 in the mud n let sit for 24 hours! Glock will work n the M&P 2.0 mite or mite not work!! Glock perfection is a game changer!!!!
Couldn't agree more, hit the nail on the head. I would add that Glock is way over priced at this point. Considering that a new Glock costs around $550 then like you said you have to replace the sights additional $100 replace the plastic guide rod with steel additional $40. And I know people who replace the trigger as well, but thats not really a must so I won't count that. But still just with those 2 replacements now the cost jumps up to almost $700. So now at $700 you still have a gun thats blocky with a grip handle made for not sure for whom, but definetly not for human hands. Vs M&P at $560 basically almost perfect out of the box and far more comfortable. Its a no Brainer. But ill still run into fanatic Glock fan boys who will defend Glock with every last fiber of their being. The fear of not belonging to the best exclusive Glock cult scares them so much that one no longer requires logic, common sence, deductive reasoning, when you have blissful ignorance.
Couldn't agree more about Glock fanboys...some of the comments I've seen from them on the internet....sheesh! I used to carry and even compete with Glocks until I realized that I shoot the HK VP9 much faster and more accurate because of its ergonomics that fit my hand better and allows it to point much more naturally for me. The response from Glock fanatics is usually the same: "Submerge both pistols in mud and lets see which one comes out on top!" As if self-defense shootings normally happen only after rolling around in a mud pit first.
Thanks for your insight. I was on the fence on getting either the Glock or the m&p but I'm glad I got the m&p9 2.0. You made very compelling points that were important for me. I appreciate your input.
@@emoutdoors5661 Great, is kind within my budget, but not a lot of information about it. Good to.know that you like it. Is yours the Sporting model, or the regular one? How's the recoil?
@@adv_jaco7883 Mine is the standard model not the sporting version. I felt that it balanced better and suited me all around since I didn’t need to adjust the stock for me. I am not really recoil sensitive but I don’t think it’s an issue at all shooting normal target loads. I shoot 100 rounds and am ready to go another round no issues. I also like the fact that it doesn’t require inertia to reset trigger.
@@emoutdoors5661 Great! The Orion is my favorite of the more budget friendly shotguns. If I get one, I'll let you know for sure! Thanks for your responses.
I originally bought my Smith & Wesson M&P M2.0 for about $425 but the price of it went up over time to where it's currently around the $700 mark. Mind you that's for the long slide 5 inch barrel version like mine in FDE paint. I think if you can find one for less than 500 you should snatch it up immediately even if it's only the compact.
My #1 would've been the Price. It's funny, you never really hear anyone bragging on their stock straight out of the box Glock. It's only the Gucci Glock owners that wanna tell you all about their fresh night sites, or RMR, and their sweet stippled grip, with that real nice Apex trigger and that swell flared mag well. It's fun to out shoot those guys in training classes with my stock M&P and then tell em what it cost. The trick is to spend more on training and range time than the gun.
