I wonder if next time you’re doing a floor like this, you could take a couple of flat boards up there and use them to move around on top when laying the insulating tape? If this is possible then it might save a bit of time moving the ladder each time. Just a thought tho might not be practical. Well done huge effort.
I would really recommend watching some gate City foundation drainage channel videos. Those guys are pros at fixing water issues. They've got some French drain videos, and lots of general drainage videos. Their most important advice is using thick pvc, getting proper grading, keeping water away from the foundation, good clay soil for water protection, and never using corrugated pipe.
Your rock solid floor will be more likely created by a good quality 19 mm to 25 mm plywood, , glued and screwed on 400mm or better centers. The adhesive layed down on all joist tops before the subfloor will make that floor sufficiently rigid. Also, tongue and groove flooring is standard in Canada to lock all edges and prevent panel edge from showing through to the finished floor surface. Good luck and keep it up!
Corrugated pipe... Ouch. It might be cheap and lightweight, but it becomes brittle and cracks in a short time, the inner surface will encourage a lot of water to sit instead of flowing and dirt will collect in the ridges. Also tends to collapse easily.
In the Netherlands it became normal since there was so much stolen in supermarkets to control the customers bags. It's not written on your forehead wheather you are a thief or not... 😂
I don't see why the acoustic tape is better than gluing the subfloor to the joints for a very solid floor system with no squeaks. You can then add sound deadening acoustic material under the subfloor.
...when you buy an impact drill and receive a trat from the neighbours at the same time, is that a coincidence? ....or was the neighbour just buying some quality-time without noises from the impact drill (was it a big tart?)
This is all a bit OTT. The noggins for the floor decking are only required to support the edges of the boarding and at 1200mm intermediate spacing for a very sound job. Those noggins could legitimately be 50x50 sw, which would be simpler to install. The same would be required for the ceiling, To cope with the winding of the joists the easiest thing would be to install herringbone strutting down the middle of the floor, these can be the 50x50sw timber or using proprietary galv steel struts. The acoustic foam tape is not really required as the acoustic performance is best handled by separating the ceiling on a hanging grid and if required, using some mineral wool between the joists. The acoustic tape is only really required on say concrete floors and where the upper floor is finished with plain edged boarding. Screwing normal floor decking hard down on to the joists does have the benefit of increasing the load carrying capability of the floor structure,
The laser shouldn't damage your camera! People weld with their cameras rolling all the time and there is a lot more energy in that light. At worst, I think you'll get clipped colours. Really enjoying this series, keep up the good work.
It is very lovely 🙌 Strength with flex. Love the effect of that black tape. I'd be sitting in a comfortable armchair, below, admiring it. Would it lend itself to some monochrome photography 🤔 You're not going to spoil it by covering it with a floor are you ? 😉
Typically you would install "noggins" (blocking in the US) at intervals on the joists and no farther apart than about 3 meters or midspan on joists less than 4 meters long. This is for structural reason of limiting deflection to less than 1/360 of span and to spread loads on adjacent joists. I do realize you are using your noggins to help bridge your subfloor decking and that the extra additional bridging you install will more than meet that structural standard. The acoustic isolation tape seems like a brilliant idea. US builders typically use subfloor adhesives of varying types to prevent squeeks. You would find clamps to be a most useful tool when lining up the top of joists and noggins.
love your work! you should watch "Les Jeromes" the have recently done a new floor similar to yours, with similar methods, I think you'd find inspiration there.
Noggins in UK construction are called blocking here. I originally assumed that you were talking about heads which are called noggins in our slang. I had a bit of a chuckle over that one.
Use a couple of strong parallel clamps as well when fastening in the bridging. It will permit you to match the top flush. Ideally template your individual bridging (noggins) pieces. Use a template made from a short floor ( slightly undersized in length) joist piece and have a slotted sliding piece to match the distance exactly. Two bolts with wing nuts to lock in the sliding piece to length exactly. One person on the ground cutting one up top templating and fastening in. The clamps to hold in place .
Er.... this sounds way OTT nerdfest to my laid back way of thinking.......!! .....houses are just not that perfect...are they! The screws will pull everything together.... AND everything is really well fixed to everything else by the decking..... AND there are way more noggins than necessary, in any case.....!!! It's belt and braces....and another belt....and MORE braces........!!
