yes, that is correct.. you can see this at 9:35 in the video. It is displaying 13.2v which pretty much means full. around 11.5v or so it is basically dead
Thanks for sharing, I’m waiting for parts to arrive & this will be my first build. - Graffiti Bumpboxx ultra + Enclosure - Wondom jab4 4Channel Amp - Dual Dayton ND 140s - Dual AMT ribbon tweeters. - Factory LEDs - Factory Batteries (TBD)
hey thanks man. this is a 5.25" kicker speaker, which is listed at 200 watts, the amp is listed at 100 watts per channel, and the speaker is wired into both channels.. not sure how many watts it is actually getting, maybe 70?
@@caseymoto You're welcome. I plan on using four of these mini-kegs with some Polk Audio 5.25 woofers to provide a lot of good mid-bass using a couple of old Alpine 70w x 2 amps to push them. Nice to know that it's in the same general power range as yours. It gives me some decent idea of what to expect! Have you ever attempted a 6.5"?
@@brianwesley28 that sounds like a cool project.. I have done 6.5" a few times, not in the mini keg but 40mm ammo can & jerry can - here is a video of those: ru-vid.com343ZknA4gx4
Here are the main components: Mini-Keg: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064OGVOK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 5.25” Kicker: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BO6ZU9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Amp: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R3Y5WXH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Battery, two options I have used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B78HTRDL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Switch: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089CR9GSD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 USB Outlet: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09236JCK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey what’s up man - it’s going pretty good! I just uploaded one now just for you, I have a haro sloride but it’s having some mechanical issues, pedals aren’t threading into cranks right
I do wrap the battery, but not completely. The bottom and back are touching walls so are not necessary.. I have never had a problem with heat, but I also don't think you will notice a difference in sound quality with or without wrapping battery.. I have seen the mat used in minimal coverage on some applications and still works, and I am more concerned with covering the metal on the box
Do you have a video of installing the amp with the control knobs sticking out between the speakers. Also do you use screws with nuts to hold the speakers and controls the the can?
For the amp mount: drill 3 holes, take careful measurements to get the locations right. use cardboard to make a template if you have to. The amp comes with three nuts threaded down on the three knobs, remove the nuts, stick knobs thru holes, then twist down nuts, it will be secure...yes I use 6-32 1" machine screws with nuts for holding everything to can
I’m planning on using a pelican case soon, they appear to be perfectly sized for something like this.. the speakers shown in the video (4”) should fit , and I will look to go even larger with a slightly larger pelican-like case I have
You can wire one tweeter to the left channel, and another to the right channel of the amp.. even though the other speakers are already occupying these left and right channels, tweeters can be shared on the same postive and negative wires.. when I did this I included 33 ohm resistors on the positive wire to the tweeters, as I read these tone down the tweeters so they don't get too loud, here is the link to that, it worked well for me : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B7MRL5S5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Your video is great and easy to follow. I plan on building one soon with 2 5.25's and an 8" Skar sub. I was thinking about using the TDA7498E amp. Do you think amp will be good enough for build? And also do you think k I will need a voltage booster? And how is it wired in.
That sounds really cool.. it looks like that amp should work.. I would use a voltage booster, here’s the link to what I use when I’m doing bigger speakers like that: a.co/d/hiO1yp2 It has red and black input wires which attach to the 12v battery and red and black output wires which attach to your amp, I do like 21v.. you can set it to what voltage you want to output
I don’t have a solid number because it depends on volume level, but it’s a 10 amp hour battery and it lasts a really long time for me, so I might say 10 hours rough estimate
I just built one with a 4" driver and passive radiator directly from scratch uploaded it to my channel, Turned out pretty well. It's interesting to see other people's go at it as seems popular to build Bluetooth speakers out of ammo cans lol.
Love the explanation and the build concept bro, couple of question so real quick. Can you still have it on while charging with no problems? And do you need a step down for the usb charger
Thanks man.. yes, you can have it on while charging with no problems, you can use any of the components while plugged into the wall.. you don’t need a step down, the usb charger and other components work off 12v, just like the amp
Do you know how how could hook up plye 4ch hydra bluetooth amp, APIELE 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye Ring Light LED Waterproof Stainless Steel Round Metal Self-Locking 7/8'' 1NO 1NC 1 Pack (Blue) 12v Talentcell 6000mah rechargeable battery ,charged port using these 10pcs Conductor Compact Connectors Lever Wire Nut Electrical Connectors with Fixed Base for 3 Circuit Inline Splices 28-12 AWG
Similar to the general plan outlined in this video.. the talentcell battery should be hooked up to positive and negative electrical connectors so you can hook up other things to battery.. from those connectors you hook up push button switch and charge port, as these two components attach to battery. the push button switch would also be connected to the plye 4ch amp because the switch can control when the amp turns on and off.. then the speakers attach to amp
On the switch button I have the red wire connected to one blue wire where should the other blue wire go I took out the yellow wires on this switch APIELE 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye Ring Light LED Waterproof Stainless Steel Round Metal Self-Locking 7/8'' 1NO 1NC 1 Pack (Blue)? I was woundering if you could draw me a diagram on how to hook up the plye amp 4ch hydra amp, toogle switch I listed , Tegg 5pcs DC-099A DC Female Panel Mount Charging Wire Threaded Socket Jact Connector with Dustproof Plug IP67 68 Water-Proof Large Current Power Adapter 5.5x2.1mm .12v Talentcell 6000mAh rechargeable battery using this 10pcs Conductor Compact Connectors Lever Wire Nut Electrical Connectors with Fixed Base for 3 Circuit Inline Splices 28-12 AWG thanks
@@caseymotocan you draw me a dishes on how to hook up plye 4ch hydra amp, APIELE 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye Ring Light LED Waterproof Stainless Steel Round Metal Self-Locking 7/8'' 1NO 1NC 1 Pack (Blue) I took out the yellow wires in the switc and twisted one red wire and one blue wire together I wanted to know know where the red blue wire that I connected together and the black and the blue wire go, female male pigtale for camera , 12v Talentcell 6000mAh recharageable battery , Tegg 5pcs DC-099A DC Female Panel Mount Charging Wire Threaded Socket Jact Connector with Dustproof Plug IP67 68 Water-Proof Large Current Power Adapter 5.5x2.1mm, using theses 10pcs Conductor Compact Connectors Lever Wire Nut Electrical Connectors with Fixed Base for 3 Circuit Inline Splices 28-12 AWG thanks
@@kylewilliams3306 the Apiele latching switch can be confusing to wire, because there are multiple ways to wire it which do different things with the LED light .. I like the option where the LED light is only on when the switch is on.. they use different color wires so it’s tough to answer that.. I would recommend studying the diagram that comes with the switch - and testing it on a simple setup using only the battery and a small light or something.. then once you get it working properly you can wire in the other stuff.. I believe for that option there are two wires connected to each other going to the positive side of the device getting switched on, one wire is unused, one wire goes to positive of battery and one wire goes to negative of battery.. if you can’t get it, you can buy a more simple switch with only three wires without all the options with LED on the switch
@@caseymoto I do not know if you have seen this video m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7kjoWeC5Ba8.html&pp=ygUgQmx1ZXRvb3RoIGljZSBjaGVzdCBjb29sZXIgYnVpbGQ%3D I was the way the guy did the wire ring of the switch with blue and wire and yellow is what I did but I am not doing a cooler build ?
Two questions i just ordered everything but wanna know if I can fit two 6” speakers in one of these and another question how long does it normally stay charged for while using
This 50 cal ammo can is fitting 4” speakers.. 6” speakers would be too big. I like to use 6” speakers on this other 20L gas can, it sounds really good: ru-vid.comTWIAvQD87t0?si=u11Ds_iCpp7HAXvj It depends what volume you play for how long it stays charged, but it lasts a really long time.. I’d say like 8 hours
@@TheOGNuke1 no problem, good luck .. you can also use a 40mm ammo can for the bigger speakers.. here’s another video which shows both of those options: ru-vid.com343ZknA4gx4?si=BcupXg5fBANbco-S
@@caseymoto built one with the 6.5” speakers I have from the utility ammo can from harbor freight they fit kinda perfectly but i have two more questions if you don’t mind what did you use to install the 12v plug effectively I used a drill bit then kinda ran it in a circle till it cut out the hole big enough then slid all 4 of the into it to get them to fit there’s gotta be a better way do u use like a 1” hole saw or something and also what was the way u got the amp to fit securely bc I made it fit kinda like u did by drilling 3 holes then pushing the amp through and sliding the caps on but it doesn’t seem that secure on there
@@TheOGNuke1 I only use hole saw for speaker holes , all the other small components I use “stepper bit” because it has several hole sizes which get progressively larger, so you stop and check as the hole gets slightly larger until the component fits perfectly… for the amp mounting , there are three small nuts tightened all the way down on those three knobs, you wanna remove those nuts and thread them back onto the knobs after you stick them thru the three holes, it will tighten up nice and secure , then stick the plastic knobs on
Oh yea way louder and better sound quality, plus the battery is a lot larger. I really like the three knobs on the amplifier allowing you to fine tune bass, treble, and volume.. it sounds so good in person
I've been on amazon trying to find the hardware put I don't know the correct names of any of it. What are the multi connectors that's hook to the battery? Charger port? Everything used to chage the battery, how can I find that? Only thing I've found is the amp, battery and the on andoff switch. Please help me with the rest.
Some of the links comes up as "sorry, page not available". But really the only thing I'm having trouble finding are the positive and negative words you have hooked to the battery that allows you to connect multi things click on them and it might do the same to you. And I wanna build a box that holds 4-6x9s. Will that amp be enough or should I get the 200 watt?
@@TheRoddrickblow yea I see that, ok the part you are describing is called “lever wire connectors nuts kit”, try this link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SFCCPZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have used this amp with two 6x9s and it worked well, four 6x9s might be pushing it, but I know of a similar cheap amp with a little more power which I sometimes use for big speakers, I’ve also used a voltage booster to increase the power going to it - let me know if you want links to those two parts
All parts from Amazon, here are the links: BATTERY: www.amazon.com/dp/B097BRKCQP?... SPEAKERS: www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVF3GW?... AMP: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08... if the Amp doesn't come with a power cord, here is the standard type that works with it: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... SWITCH PANEL www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9HC65T?... SIDEWALL PORT: www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6NJ37P?... CONNECTOR BOXES: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SFCCPZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 CONNECTORS THAT CRIMP ON WIRES: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01... WIRE (YOU MIGHT NOT NEED THIS LARGE OF A ROLL): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... WALL CHARGER: Mroinge MBC022, 12V 2A Lead Acid & Lithium(LiFePO4) Automatic Trickle Battery Charger Smart Battery Maintainer for Car Motorcycle Lawn Mower Boat ATV SLA AGM Gel Lithium(LiFePO4) and More Batteries a.co/d/1JPAmOR FUSE if you want to add it: www.amazon.com/dp/B081DHT8Y7?... Non-Electronic Parts: 50-CAL AMMO CAN: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01... SOUND DEADENING MATERIAL: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08... HOLE SAW to cut the speaker holes in Ammo Can: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
I followed all of your video. Thank you by the way it works!!! But I noticed the voltmeter stays on even after turning off the switch. Do I have something backwards?😊
The voltmeter should not stay on when turning off the switch. It should be connected to the same power line as the USB charger, 12v socket, and amplifier - which all go off with the switch.. maybe you have it connected directly to the battery, which is on the same line as the charger and having constant power.. let me know if I can help