I know. I put it together with what I had on hand at the time, I've meant to go back and replace the mud ring, but its one of those things that I just never remember to go back to it except when I'm busy with something else.
If you look up the process of levigating, its pretty simple to remove the clay from the soil, then you can use the clay for this project and put the rest of the soil back in the garden!
Depends what you mean by "explode". In normal English concrete won't explode, but will crack and eventually lose integrity. In social media speak, I guess "explode" is OK bc nobody with common sense takes it literally.
Concrete can and will literally explode if put under high heat due to the water in the concrete creating steam pressure. These explosions are typically small and isolated to the surface, and we refer to it as spalling.
I know you're proud of what you built but you did all talking through the whole Process but what you're getting do is show it functioning come on man you do more talking than you do actual functioning people want to see something work when you make a A video show it working don't just talk us to death
Thats a great idea! Unfortunately I live way inland (like 300 miles) so drift wood is not something I have much access too, but I have run a solid fuel forge on rabbit poop before.
I use the power hammer in nearly all of my other videos, but here is a link anyway that will take you to a video where I use the power hammer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p2NnUwfufD8.html
Thats a pretty sweet build dude I think its one of a kind and quite creative how you used a bicycle wheel and stuff awesome job man made me wanna build one
Thanks! I spent a lot of time trying to find something that would work for a 20+ inch pully, and I was really excited when I thought of using the bike wheel.
I eyeballed it. The reducer was 2 inches on the large end so it would fit over the smallest sprocket and that helped line everything up. The smaller end is either 3/4 or 1 (I don't remember exactly) since it was the smallest they had with 2 inch on the other side.
building a hammer is a great way to go if you have the tools and materials to do it. It will also give you a great appreciation for figuring out how the hammer works.
How dare you not give us a dimo That Sucks!!! I couldn't wait to see the dam thing run!! It looks like shit but I was gong to give it the benefit of the doubt!! WTF
it does work. I didn't run it in this particular video because this was done last winter and it was too cold that day to run the forge (tank freeze-up). You can see the hammer running in many of my other videos.
Those are 4 hole flange bearings not pillow block bearings partner. Taking nothing and making something, cool. They say, it's not what you have, it's what you do with it.
Thanks, I didn't realize there was a different name for the bearings when they are mounted this way. I just thought they were a different shape of pillow block.
overall went quite well, more of a square drift by the finish than a punch but still a very servicable tool For a punch I would make it a little longer profile and as you said an angular face so it cuts into the work piece. The deformation at the eye is probably due to it not being hardened and tempered back, the steel will still be in an amorphous state and open to moving around quite a lot before work hardening. so quenching will crystallize the steel then tempering back to the browns and purples keeps that structure but softens the metal enough that it won't move as easily and is still unlikely to chip. the reason a hammer eye is lozenge shaped is because it makes deformation less likely (also to stop the head spinning but that is actually a side effect)
Cool idea and looks good, I am not into charring handles personally I like to just treat them several times with raw linseed oil, it has a much nicer hand feel to me and helps make the handle more springy, Ive had handles last twenty years treated like that. (don't forget to take the varnish off any hammer handle) Thanks for sharing
Brilliant, that's my sort of build. Love the motor drive/disengagement, I did similar years ago. If you made your anvil adjustable in height but still keeping it robust, that would overcome your problem when working on thicker material. You could build up a selection of various height anvils just to slip into place when needed. Love the finish, as is.........Tony
Thanks for the tag. Nice work! When you had a quenched blade before the 3 hour mark, I started sweating. Haha. My video will be out in the next couple of weeks, but I'm moving at the moment and couldn't get it edited in time before the move.
"Doesn't work"! If you are going to criticize you should only do it if you can come across as someone who doesn't live in an old shack way back up in the hills of Dumbshitistan. English is something with which you might want to get acquainted.
