My V70r is the same way. The rear is kind of crusty but the front is perfect. I am swapping the whole rear subframe out of my s60r parts car. Also did this solve the issue?
All you have is the assembly unbolt loose for install evaparator core back together. Your video isn’t show us to install back together. I had to pull dash alittle for evaporator cover to access.
great help thanks! Mine didn't change the steering as much as I would have hoped because rag joint had already be changed by some moran. I call the guy a moran because it was probably me! Either I did it myself or didn't remember paying to have it done! So if any on else is planning to do this pull that lower cover off and check first. Biggest feel change for mine was probably the difference between a u-joint and a slightly old/worn rag joint. One thing that did look off to me when I was making sure the tires were pointing straight with the steering wheel was that my tires seemed to have toe out. So I think I need to hand check that then go to a good alignment shop. Thanks again!
Thanks a lot for sharing the troubleshooting video. It’s the same issue happened with my backup camera as well. The trunk spring snapped the camera harness. I fixed it and working fine
Bro, your doppleganger also has a youtube channel. Hes The Civil Rights Lawyer. Awesome channel. You guys could be brothers. You should hit him up and prank him somehow..ha! Anyway, thanks for the fix. Imma go leck trick cute myself... Hold my beer!
This video is gold brother!! Spent about 45 minutes fighting that lower evap coil line and gave up. I started searching and found your video 15 minutes later the evaporator coil pulled. Thank you!!
I did this yesterday and was thrilled it worked. If these batteries suddenly fail and can't be recharged, it's probably by design. This should be looked into. Thanks for the video. I made my jumper from a small piece of lamp cord that I saved because I might need it one day. T15 security Torx
My 8ah mower battery ran fine as usual and lasted long enough to get done. It was at one led which is normal, and I put it on the charger. Hours later I returned and the charger was doing the green/red flash. I did the reset on mine, which has the circuit in a different location, but it didn't work. It's amazing how complex the charging circuit on the board is.
My 40 volt (5 Ah) battery was fully charged. Put it in my lawn mower and after 15 minutes it stopped! I checked the state of charge and all green lights flashed in unison. Put it in charger and red and green light flashed. I figured I was in the market for a new battery. Stumbled on this video (fast forward to 4:20) and I reset the battery and now it's charging! After it's done I'll see if it works and post back here. Thanks for posting this video!
Update: The battery will reset and fully charge however after a 20-30 minutes of use the mower stops operating when it should run for another 20-30 minutes. When this happens the battery will not charge until I reset it...I figure I'll be buying a new battery soon.
I did it an easy way I cut the front of box as they show in later years on my 99 Tahoe the only extra thing you need to cut is the knee pipe behind glove box then once it was done I used 2 pipe connectors and put my the knee pipe back together whole removal and install took just over an hour plus I sealed the plastic cover I cut out with flex seal tape and spray then covered with black gorilla tape looks and works great I wish RU-vid would let me add pictures to the comments
Now vibrations or above 90km and even more zoeming sound and vibration in seet above 100km a hour? I have the JXB Audi Q5 2.0T and above 90 vibrations and higer even more. A have contact with jay and looking waht whe can do. Buth what is your experiences?
There is an easier way. But it's not for those who have mint cherry trucks. Since mine is just an old beater it didn't bother me. Take it out through the engine compartment. I found a video showing where to cut the firewall to remove it. When you're done you make a cover plate for the hole. I cut a patch panel from the side of an old washing machine. Any piece of metal would work. Spray painted it with duplicolor matching paint, ran a bead of silicone and used self tapping screws to hold it in place. Once everything is in place you can't even tell. The video I watched did fail to mention one screw inside the evaporator case that prevented it from sliding out easily. I cut it off with a sawsall. If I ever have to replace the evaporator again I just have to remove the panel I made. The factory should have made access from the engine compartment. Another super fun project is replacing the blend door actuator. It also has a screw from hades. I got it out but it's impossible to replace. I put the easy screw in and jammed a rubber ball in the gap to hold it in place. Later on I found a tool called a Tite Reach that would make the job easy.
Did you have any trouble with placing the rubber mounts on the BC springs? Not sure the exact term but the rubber piece that sits between the shock mount and the spring.
Good job. I cut a bit too much off the dryer nut on the upper hose to the evap and nicked the o-ring sealing surface, so out goes the heatercore and evap and the client gets all new on me. Great video.
Dude, good video but could have been great. We don't care about your T shirt, neighbor's muffler, prior owner's cell phone, or pile of screws. Stay on topic; edit out the ADHD distractions. And for crying out loud stop with the frantic camera movement and explaining things that are not in frame.
