Thanks for the quick reply. That's great as I've got a job tomorrow on a si but has the old style motor and I only have the new style stocked up but was not sure if it had to be the same type. You saved me stressing out. Thanks a lot 🙏
I usually take the high limit stat off, then the 2 earth connectors off, from the top of the main hx. Then use a Long Flat blade Screwdriver, to push the electrode's Brass cable connectors upwards, sitting under the rubber grommets. But these are always a pain to remove 🤦🏽
Hi. One thing you can try. Fully close or tighten, the square shaped screw on the filling link and then Remove the key from the link, by pulling downwards. Leave it for a few hours. Then check, if there are any drops of water, from. Where you removed the white key earlier. This may indicate if your filling link is letting by water. May be constantly filling the heating system.
If you can't bring CO², to the Manufacturer's recommended limit. Before declaring the Gas Valve faulty, check the negative fan pressure/ fan pull as well as the inlet working Gas pressure at Max Chimney Sweep Mode. If these are as recommended. But still, the CO² readings are not correctly adjustable, than the Gas valve may very well be faulty.
Hi. Step 1. Make sure, that there is decent flow of water flowing through the hot water taps and you're able to isolate it as well, by turning off, the cold water inlet valve to the boiler. . Then, on newer boilers, a "Tap" symbol appears, when a hot water tap is on. If this is not appearing. Means that the boiler hasn't recognised a demand from the running tap. 99% of the times, this is the flow turbine/ flow /Hall effect sensor gone faulty or blocked. Also check, if these is a little mesh filter, on the cold water inlet connection to the boiler. If you have a spare, new or confirmed operational, Turbine/ Flow sensor, only connect the boiler's flow sensor cable to the new one, which is Not yet fitted to the boiler and blow through the inlet side of this. This makes the Turbine spin, creates the voltage, send back to Pcb and tells the boiler to start for hot water. Hope this helps👍
A-MA-ZING absolutely perfect just what i needed. Just need to watch your other vid on multi-meters, but i have one question, which way round does the transformer go? as i 'feel' it can go back on (new one I've ordered) in 2 different ways it will slot in place!! a plumber told me it will only go back one way but i think i could re-fit it 2 ways so might cause more damage. alas when i removed it i had a problem (wont tell you what that was!) so i was distracted so didnt notice its orientation
Hi. Thanks for your messages. This video is only a guide on how to replace the main hx on a compact. Not to do with fault Finding process. Appreciate your kind messages 👍
I bet it was a flat expansion vessel you could have tested this buy charging the boiler to 1 bar turning the heating on and seeing if the gauge shot up I find it hard to believe a Worcester of this age needed a new heat exchanger
You can remove the flow restrictor on a 42 cdi and get a much better flow rate and its not dangerous as some people think The only issue is you will get a slightly lower temperature rise as the waters passing through the plate faster which you may notice in the middle of winter when the incoming mains temperature is lower
Nice video and very informative! Two questions: 1- Is it worth replacing the main heat exchanger or installing new boiler? 2- How do you price the job! Hourly or per job? Someone with years of experience would do it quicker and probably cheaper if quoted on hourly rate! Thanks
As a private heating engineer, it is very expensive. But still a lot cheaper than a new boiler installation. Rough example, new (decent) boiler with installation is around £2500? But main hx replacement is under £1000. On the job pricing. I usually try and think of a decent day's earning. As this job takes about 2 to 3 hours. Divide it by the day's money. For example. Without being too greedy, I would imagine £400 as a Good earning for a day. And as the main hx takes less than half a day, £200 is a decent amount and still not too expensive for the Customer. Hope this answers your questions 🤔
Great video. I do have a question. We recently had a service on our 14 year old Greenstar 24Ri heat-only boiler and the engineer changed the red gasket seal and the electrodes. Soon after doing this, we noticed a drip drip leak under the boiler. When he came to have a look, the leak had stopped and he could not detect where it came from. The next morning, before the boiler started for HW, I noticed the leak again. I took off the cover to see where the leak was and it was coming from the top of the heat exchanger at the point where the red seal was put in. I took a video and showed the engineer who now insists that the heat exchanger has failed and I should change the boiler. Is it possible that the seal has not been seated correctly and that is why I have a leak? He says no because if it had not been fitted correctly it would only leak when the boiler is switched on. Any advice? I've gone from a service to perhaps needing a brand new boiler and before the service I did not have any type of leak.
This is the best video I have ever seen better than a trainer. Very well explained step by step backed up by evidence and pictures. Sound quality is excellent You are a Legend ❤❤❤❤
