I have another suggestion: Compare this test to another test with a 200 and a 400 watt solar panel--and see how much longer it runs with the battery being connected to solar panels and the battery
Bought an AC200L in late Dec23 and appeared great until we had a multiday power outage. Could not use solar due to rain and storms. Used 100% powered unit to keep our refrigerator and freezer running for about 7-8 hours. Went to recharge the power station with our gas generator on outdoor porch. The AC200L would not take a charge from a Honda EU2000i inverter sine wave generator. I have been working with customer service in China and they have messed around with the firmware for several weeks and nothing works. They do not seem to understand why and the Bluetti website no longer has anything about any of their power stations being able to take a AC charge from a pure sine wave gas generator! They had some that had older firmware that worked as advertised but apparently they have removed that function! This makes the unit worthless as we found in our first storm. If one can’t charge from the power grid, can’t charge from a sine wave gas generator, can’t charge from non-waterproof solar panels in a rain storm, so only way left is a vehicle power plug, cigarette lighter that takes 10-20 hours! That is unacceptable and in reality is false advertising. I read one review of Bluetti by another RU-vid reviewer and he raved about the customer support. He is off in left field and they only respond to email. Tried calling several times and no one would answer. When I bought my unit, you could talk to sales but not now! What is going on with this company? Seems to me the FCC and other alphabet organizations need to get involved and investigate this company that seems to put out another model every time they turn around! Stay away from Bluetti!
Thanks for sharing this experience, that is something I need to put on my test list. All power stations should charge from pure sine wave generator. I would try adjusting the charge rate from your phone app and see if that works.
Correct, it is currently not on the list. This is how I got my communication working though. Around Minute 9:20 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H38UZV3gx4Q.htmlsi=dALiyViinT-27QhD
Do you think if I have a gas stove, gas dryer, gas heat and the rest of is electric on a 2000 ft home and doubled everything you have. Could I make it off grid?
Any fridge when starting up pulls 8 or 9 times the load. If it's a 500w fridge it can pull almost 4500w. How is it possible for a 400w inverter to handle this?
Your neighbor is getting absolutely scammed, they need to find a better solar company, unless they're getting stupid amounts of battery storage, 100K is way way overpriced
There is a DC breaker for the battery cables. So just make sure you select battery cables according to that DC breaker if you want to use the protection from the DC breaker
Interesting that Ecoflow added more battery capacity but still left the input (solar) to 150V like the Delta Pro. not sure why they would do that -- especially if you have extra batteries connected and such. Weird.
They are losing sales and money on their over priced equipment. I like their products don't get me wrong. I just can't see these mass adopted for the price. Best way to get into these are open box and refurbished. Then you see true prices thanks Ray
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay ebay has a bunch of them and now that they have the oh so powerful delta 3, I'm sure you'll see the prices going down significantly
Send that thing over to me to test out after you get done evaluating it😝 It seems to me though that by including 2 different charge controllers in the unit that it will end up with some users getting the 2 different ports confused and plugging solar power into the wrong one and damaging the unit.. I think of it like military hardware.. you have to make it grunt proof.. or maybe wife proof.. either way, I'm pretty sure that there will be some units being damaged because of this. It's just easier when both charge controllers are identical so that you can't confuse them in my opinion.
They need to design these things to be used with standard, cheaper LiFeP04 batteries instead of the ridiculous, expensive add-on batteries these companies push. They also design many of the lower priced high output units to be used with their own very very overpriced folding solar panels when they should be able to use waterproof, 25 year glass panels when used for your home and still get the full solar input. This is UNFORGIVABLE. I love my power stations but all of them advertised a higher capacity than they actually provide. If a company claims 700wh or 1200wh the device should actually be capable of producing that and they should be repairable if a board, inverter or charge controller quits working. When I first tested my fully charged Bluetti EB70 with 716wh on my freezer the watt meter revealed it only provided 540wh in one test, 520 in another, etc. Luckily I was able to at least get a 2nd free one from them. And oddly enough, the AC inverter is so inefficient that my 500wh power stations can run my dorm fridge up to 8 hours longer than the EB70. This is why I started buying parts over time to build my own system with a 300ah LiFeP04. It has taken me three years to do this on my fixed income (and a LOT of studying) but I can FINALLY power my window air conditioner. And if a part fails I can replace and repair it.
Thank you for putting this video out for us. I just have a question about the pinout for your communication cable. I have 2 Growatt SPF3000LT LVM-V48P and I cannot get them to communicate Setting Option 05 to L!I and Option 36 to L52. I just get Error 04 and error 20 no communication. From what I read in the RUIXU manual CAN is just Pin 4 & 5 on battery side to pin 4&5 on inverter side. Growatt support says that the communication protocols are the same on SPF3000-ES as the SPF3000LT LVM48-P but no matter what I try I cannot get it to communicate with the Battery BMS.
For the ruixu batteries? Min 9:20 in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H38UZV3gx4Q.htmlsi=dALiyViinT-27QhD This worked best for me. I'm open to suggestions though.
Should probably also keep in mind that refrigerators usually have terrible power factors, and so you're going to get even more of a loss with the inverter.
The battery will last ten minutes? :)> Never run AC inverter on DC batteries! an inverter from a dc generator does work, but why???!!! ... use a propane fridg on RVs. Use a PC tablet with a keyboard on your RV
In most cases of you have had a gas furnace you will have heat from your solar BUT NOT AC, you need another switch to hook up your Ac to have AC. While your in the summer months, all this will do is make the fan run, but the AC such as what 99 percent have in a separate panel outside the house. But it would work with heat, if you have a gas unit. It wouldn't run your AC unit and cool your house though. It would if you ran a separate switch to the AC unit from outside so you could run that off your solar a well. Then you will have both heat and cooling if you lose power.
I haven't done so but I imagine it would be fine....HOWEVER, if you have a lot of other loads running at the same time it probably will not and you would have to buy another unit. 2 units can be a little noisy so you would need to make sure you have a space where that wouldn't bother you. You could use a meter on your home and see how much power you are using on each leg when the air conditioner is running. If a single leg is over 3,000 Watts the unit will switch to bypass mode and run everything off of grid. During this time all solar goes into charging the battery. If your battery is topped off your solar will be just wasted in this scenario.
I have three server rack batteries for my system and if I run the air conditioner after the sun goes down my battery is will be dead in just a few hours. They will last through the night if I turn the air conditioner off after the sun goes down.
Thanks for video, very informative! What do you think of Current Connected vs Signature Solar re: customer service & support from equipment purchase to post-purchase technical support? Thanks.
I think you'll be fine with either one. I wouldn't have any concerns buying from either one of them. For tough questions, They will ask their work colleagues until they can find the answer for you. I have had more experience with signature solar but current connected seems like they have a very good support team also... they claim to have a smaller more well-trained team but I have only called them a few times.
I have just started my 48 volt system. I ran a 24 volt for a year and ran the Fridge and dishwasher. I have to wait until the distribution block come in to wire up the (2) 24volt 300 AM batteries to be 48 volt and I have 3 sets of them so it will be interesting to see how it fairs with the fridge and freezer and the dishwasher.
Mine failed to connect but the app would automatically log me in so I couldn't reconfigure the dongle. I had to open network settings on my phone and connect to the dongle. Then the app gave me the log in screen with the connect dongle option. Some how that didn't work so I tried connecting with Bluetooth. I then entered my wifi SSID and password. Success! I had also split my router 2.4 and 5 G signal and connect to the 2.4 network. Also if you enter you password incorrectly it will still try to connect with no error message.
I ran my 24 cu. ft. fridge, two fans, a table lamp, and my internet on a Champion 3400 generator for 27 hours on one 20 pound lp fuel tank with fuel left over. My generator is a dual fuel set up but I have never ran gasoline in it because of the possibility of carburetor clogging. For emergencies I keep 3 20 lb. lp tanks and one five gallon gas can in the shed. I also generally have 40-60 lbs. of charcoal for the bbq and a good supply of cut wood. Now, with that said, I am not a hick in the woods. I live in a normal suburban neighborhood but I am prepared for at least 90 days of chaos.
Good video for DIY project, I am not an electrician so I have a question about the Polaris connectors. Lets say your panel is 100 amps and you connect the Polaris connector so you can then connect to the inverter. Would this send 100 amp to the inverter? (Grid breaker on the inverter) I thought this inverter max ac input was 50 amps.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay nice! so are you permitting this? I permitted mine, it was kind of a pain. I've got 2 6500ex w/the 6 eg4 server rack batteries & 40 used kyocera 265w solar panels from San Tan
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay the biggest thing was the inspectors had never seen one that was owner installed, especially with batteries. Biggest thing was to have all the applicable sections of the code/s printed out for them to reference. also the UL certs on everything handy. the building department in my area made me get my plans PE stamped, I had a friend of a friend so that didn't cost anything.
From what I’ve learned in assessing used panels, it makes sense to buy 200% of your needs. Say you need 1kW you buy 2kW, put 500W in storage as spares. Set up your 1.5kW worth of panels and your charge controller will perform well on far from ideal days because of the larger redundant array. You couldn’t do that at new prices. Of course you need to observe open circuit voltages, de rate for your winter temps and make sure that doesn’t exceed your charge controller’s voltage limit.
