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A very good explanation of the problem. The very first time you come across this issue, it will take a minute to understand what you are seeing. Happens often after a storm.
Yes, the current on the neutral is the difference between the currents on the two legs. My intention was not to teach all that, but to show what happens with a lost neutral.
I’ve seen multiple testers that sometimes give a dim light. I have always ignored that because when I get that light and I’ve tested the outlet with another tester, the new tester tells me that that dim light should not have lit. It’s somehow caused by some stray voltage.
@@morganinspectionservices3840 Thank you, as it turned out I wiggled a wire and the dim one stopped. This left it as an open neutral which is exactly what it would have been had I ignored the dim light just like you said. :)
This is very helpful when you are dealing with a single leg of power. So 1 120v circuit breaker. If you have a shared neutral, which means it it a single neutral wire for 2 different 120v circuits that are out of phase, then when you plug in that drill and there is a lightbulb on the other leg the drill receives 240v and blows up. This is why a shared neutral is not used by many electricians. Even though that is actually how your house is connected to the street transformer.
I had a shared neutral on 6 plugs in my garage. A wire nut failed and I had a lost neutral in my house but just on 4 plugs. It destroyed a charger before I noticed the problem.
If a neutral becomes disconnected inside the home, then that’s actually a different situation than what this “lost neutral“ video discusses. We typically call your situation an open or disconnected neutral. I have a separate video on that. Sounds like you were already able to solve the problem. However, if you need it, here is a link. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BVcNnBKfC8Q.htmlsi=7Gb7tGew_n87GCKy Temperature
@morganinspectionservices3840 That video did a good job describing a lost neural on a 120v circuit. I’m referring to a shared neural. Which acts more like this video. So imagine this. You install a 240v circuit breaker. Then you take a 14-3 from the circuit breaker box to an electrical box with 2 receptacles in it. So going into that box you have red, leg1; black, leg2; white, which is a neutral shared between the black and red; then green, your ground. Red goes to a 120v plug on the right. Black goes to 120v plug on the left. Both plugs have a pigtail going to the single shared white wire. Now disconnect that white wire inside the electrical panel. Plug a lightbulb into both 120v sockets. The energy follows this path. Black wire Light bulb White pig tail Second white pigtail going to the other plug Second lightbulb Red wire So you have 240v going through 2 120v lightbulbs. Being protected by a single 240v breaker. Now you have your demonstration but inside a house. Fun fun watching things smoke. 😁
My valve was not stopping water flow. I removed top assembly and saw small piece of sand on rubber gasket which cause the gasket not to seat and seal properly, I removed sand bit and it stops now. Thank you for this video as I was about to replace entire fill valve. I would have never figured out how to access gasket without this video. Thank you so much!
We had an open ground and to fix it the electrician spliced ground and neutral in a junction box. Now all of the outlets in series read correct on plug tester.... Is this OK? If not why?
An electrician spliced the ground and the neutral together? That is definitely NOT OK. Any electrician should know better than that. That is creating a “bootleg ground”. That ground wire will now be carrying current as well as creating other potential hazards. Not good! You should watch my video on bootleg grounds. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7Or7a59hy3w.htmlsi=hTx041vP-dARrbok
Really great advice. I had a difficult time with a mysterious lost neutral. Symptoms were weird, like everything is "hot" per non-contact probe in the switch boxes. Thought I'd share. I had a light and a ceiling fan which had lost neutral connection (lost someplace...not in the switch boxes). I located he appropriate breaker...which was labeled "lighting". Turns out that the home was wired creatively, and the breaker was labeled inaccurately. I could not determine where the neutral in the switch box was coming from, but found the neutral connection in service box to be tight. I eventually turned the breaker off and determined that there were a number of outlets in 2 bedrooms also powered by the breaker. I pulled every outlet powered by the circuit (as well as switch boxes for affected lights and ceiling fan). A couple outlets were the "end of the run" with only "power in" wires. A few were "daisy chained" feeding outlets down the line. There were 3 outlets which had 3 sets of wires ("Power-In", Daisy Chain feeding outlets down the line". I pulled outlets one by one and eventually found one with the 3 sets of wires...with a neutral stab-in which had fallen out and was loose in the box. I struggled finding the problem initially because I limited my search to the switch boxes powered by the circuit. I was incredibly happy to find the easy-fix problem (I had visions of a broken wire (screw or nail penetration...and ripping off drywall)). In hind sight the problem was simple...I just didn't start off correctly...by identifying all things powered by the circuit. Bonus...I now own a wire tracer (Klein Pro-Tracer)...which didn't help that much (except that it verified that neutral in the outlet box fed the switch neutral)...but will help me in the future with other projects where I have unknown broken wires...both AC and DC. Sorry for rambling...I just hope someone will find it helpful.
Ok. Question for you: oven wasn't getting to temperature, but was still getting hot. Replaced the heating element and the new element wouldn't even get hot. Took it back out, and put the old one back in, and it would get warm. Ordered a 3rd element, replaced it and it wouldn't get warm. Very very small chance of ordering 2 BAD elements. What the heck is going on?
In my experience experience, if a heating helmet goes bad, it will not get hot at all. In your case, I wouldn’t think that the heating element was the problem. Did your original heating element get bright red? Did you by chance check the resistance across the element? How hot did your oven get with your original heating element? You are right that it would be very odd to receive two bad heating elements.
Thank you for explaining this. This was my exact problem, and I i was able to fix it.( i couldn't understand why my diagnostic tool was giving that reading. Your explanation helped me u to understand)
I actually never heard of that trick. Where I work we usually use Eaton BR style panels and breakers. For those that aren't familiar with this particular panel, the AFCI, Dual function and also GFCI, if I'm not mistaken, breakers have a small red LED in the test button that blinks a specific number of times after you reset it following a trip. The number of blinks corresponds to the type of fault that caused it to trip. What I've experienced, not so much now, but about 8 to 10 years ago when I was first getting into the trade as an electrician, motors, vacuum cleaners being the largest culprit, caused most nuisance trips with AFCIs in the days before the technology matured enough to tell the difference between normal arcing and dangerous arcing conditions. Another thing I've heard but never experienced myself, in the early days of AFCI, were dimmer switches. Because a dimmer switch works by chopping off part of the AC sine wave thereby varying the RMS voltage supplied to the luminaire, supposedly this didn't work as well with some brands of AFCIs when dimmed to a certain level, with some brands of dimmers having more trouble than others.
@@morganinspectionservices3840, I was able to find the open neutral wire, after inspecting 5 receptacles (I wasn’t sure which one was closer to the breaker box). But took the opportunity to replace all the receptacles with new ones. Thanks again!
There are also two alternative 3 way switch configurations sometimes found in very homes, usually with knob and tube wiring or really old raceway aka conduit systems. 1) California method. a) The incoming hot connects to a traveler screw on the first switch, then is jumped from that same terminal to the same traveler of the second switch. b) A switched hot connects to the other traveler of the first switch to the same traveler of the second switch, then off that same terminal to the light fixture. c) the common terminal on each switch is connected together. I have never personally ran across this one, but from my understanding and research, the California method because of a local code in California, or at least some counties in California, that stated more than 3 wires are not permitted inside of a conduit, unless one of them is a switch leg. The advantages were that switched and unswitched power were available on both ends of a three way setup, this saved wire and conduit in certain situations such as a long hallway. The disadvantages are that it can confuse even some master electricians, and it typically does not leave an available neutral in the switch boxes to facilitate future installation of electronic switching devices. For this reason, the California method is no longer code compliant as of 2011. 2) Carter method, also known by several nicknames such as Chicago, farmers, barnyard, hot shot, reverse, or power beyond, lazy susan, or lazy neutral 3 way, among others. a) the hot and neutral from the source connect to the travellers of the first switch, then jump off to the travellers of the second switch where they can power other loads downstream. b) one of the wires from the light fixture connects to the common on the first switch. c) the other wire from the light fixture connects to the common on the second switch. How this works is the light can have 4 possible states depending on the position of the two switches which may or may not be on the same circuit: Neutral-neutral = light OFF Hot-neutral = light ON, with correct polarity Hot-Hot = light OFF, and socket remains live at both terminals relative to ground (if on different circuits, must be same phase or lamp will get 240V) Neutral-hot = light ON, with reverse polarity. The carter method was officially banned by the NEC in 1923 because of the obvious dangers of having a fixture appear dead when in fact both terminals are live, but continued decades later, at least into the 1950s and possibly later. I personally ran across a carter 3 way once, for switching a yardlight from the house and barn on a farm in Sanilac County michigan. Fed from different panels, a single wire resembling THHN ran from the house to the light, and from the barn to the light, installed sometime in the early 1950s after the farm got electricity in 1951, house was built in 1906. Sometimes the yardlight got extremely bright for a few seconds before burning out, problem began after the farmer, whom my dad has known for many years, moved some breakers around in the barn panel to make room for a 2 pole 20 for a large air compressor he just brought. This was back in 2015 as I was 25 and still had 7 months before I finished my apprenticeship and took/passed the Journeyman test. I scratched my head for what seemed like eternity before accidentally discovering 120V between the travellers on both switches with my wiggy meter, then it all suddenly made sense. To fix the problem I simply found the breaker in the barn powering the yardlight and moved it one slot over. The farmer was left speechless when I clearly explained to him what was happening after he rearranged the breakers and what I did to fix it, but he wasn't 100% convinced yet, so I went back up the extension ladder and changed the burned out bulb using the last one he had, a 300 watt incandescent if I remember correctly and to his surprise, it worked as it should on all the possible switch positions. So he took me out to a very fancy and expensive Italian restaurant afterwards and paid me $100 in cash. 😊 The advantage of the carter method was it controlled a light while keeping unswitched power on both ends of the switches using 3 wires instead of 4 (not counting a ground) that a modern traveler system would require. So you basically save one wire, so this method was often employed by old timers who lived during the tough economic times of the 1930s, where frugality and self sufficiency became a necessity.
This was the only video I found that helped solve my issue. The tank would fill but then would start making a hammering sound and would not shut off. I had to shut off the water supply. All of the other videos suggested replacement of the entire assembly. Replacing the seal fixed it. Thank you !
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. I have already planned to do one comparing the ideal Suretest and 3-light testers. I will look into including the RT250.
I made the new video yesterday where I test multiple testers, including the RT 250. Thanks for your suggestion. It will be published within the next week or so.
Under normal conditions, water will never flow through the relief valve. Sometimes they will leak and some water will flow through them, but it shouldn’t ever go through the relief valve.
Thanks. I accidentally leaned on mine today and cracked the cpvc pipe. I reattached it with gorilla glue until I can research what it is and how urgent to repair it.
I installed GFCI outlets in my new house, and my no contact tester was beeping in the downstream plug at all the terminals and in the plug itself. When I plugged in my tester the main light came on and the next yellow light was not as bright and was flickering, and the red light was flickering faintly as well. Is it a loose neutral wire somewwhere in the circuit. The GFCI will still trip when I push the button on the tester, so will it still be ok ?
If the GFCI-test button on your tester trips the GFCI outlet, then that outlet will provide the proper protection. If you can plug things into those outlets and they work, then the problem is not a disconnected or loose neutral. There have been a few instances where I have tested outlets with my tester and multiple lights come on, but some of them very dimly. I have not discovered exactly what causes this, but I think it is because there is some low-voltage on the neutral for some reason.
You betcha! I asked chatGPT how to do it and it said there was no built-in Windows method to do it however you could add some sort of third-party application, so I wasn't going to do that. Your method probably saved me 1 - 2 hours of time and frustration. So thanks for all of us for your tip!
I just changed the valve seal, and it still leaks. Any other suggestions? In fact, when I saw it wasn't working, I took the cap off again, and noticed the seal was no longer seated. After several tries to get it right, it still leaks. The new seal looks exactly like the old one, yet it won't seat properly.
As long as you put the seal in correctly, and it is still leaking then there is a problem not related to the seal. It’s probably time to change out the entire valve. This is not too complicated. Unfortunately, it is not nearly as easy as replacing the seal that you already did. Here’s a video to help you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9VWuetHrTJY.htmlsi=XwgatyDyxTvmwIjK
Because of these limitations, a slang term for the 3 light testers I along with my fellow electricians use, are the 3 eyed liar, 3 light dummy tester, or dummy traffic light tester. Speaking of which, I've actually encountered a 120V receptacle wired with 240v once. In my first apartment in Pontiac Michigan, after finishing a two year trade school and moving out of my parent's house on my own. There was a window air conditioner with the factory plug replaced with a standard 120v 15a plug, never thought anything of it. That location also happened to be the most convenient place to plug in my floor lamp with a CFL bulb. As nighttime approached, as soon as I turn the switch, i got loud popping and bright flashes, the bulb caught fire and in a full blown panic, smashed the lamp through the window out the second floor with the bulb and plastic shade on fire. After a couple shots of whiskey to calm my nerves down and think clearly, plugged in my 3 light dummy. All 3 light lit up with the middle light brighter, I didn't understand that reading, so I grabbed my wiggy meter and sure enough, 240V hot to neutral, 120V hot to ground and 120V neutral to ground. I now make it a habit to check out the outlets in any home or apartment I choose to rent especially if I notice something suspicious ex. a large appliance with the factory plug replaced, plugged into a standard 120V outlet. Or if its a really old property and my 3 light dummy says correct wiring, I will pull the coverplate to check for a bootleg ground. Fortunately I haven't found any problems in the properties I've stayed at since. Just something you may want be aware of when moving to a new property, whether you're renting or buying.
Maybe you can help me out. I have a viewer who put a rather lengthy comment on this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BVcNnBKfC8Q.htmlsi=LVYW2KOl0Llksqb8 The comment was written in the last 12 hours or so by “theomengod.” it should be easy to find. I’m having a hard time diagnosing his issue.
I have a pole behind my house with a breaker box and a meter box above it. Two wires run from the pole behind my house out to the main pole on road with the transformer. Am I responsible for everything on the pole behind my house? Thank you!
Typically, the homeowner is responsible for everything after where the wires connect to the weather head just before the electric meter. The electric company is responsible for everything just before the connection at or near your electric meter.
Are there any simple uncomplicated tests that I can do in my house to determine whether I have a lost neutral or not? How do I determine if it's on my end or the power companies end? All the receptacles I've tested so far are reading around 120 (120 in and out) but my refrigerator won't run. I've plugged the refrigerator into different outlets and it's the same. Tried plugging my Skillet into different outlets around the house and it won't work. Thank you!
This is a test that I would do in my house, but I will caution you that you must be very careful. I don’t want anyone getting electrocuted. If it were my house, I would remove the cover from the electric panel and measure the voltages at each main lug. Test between one lug and the neutral, and between the other lug and the neutral. See if you have 120 V on both legs of your electrical system. And make sure you have 240 V between the two lugs. If those tests are good, but you do not have 120 V at the outlets in your house, then I would say the problem is inside your house. If you do not have 120 V when measured as described above, then the problem is likely with the power company.
So I'm getting low voltage throughout my whole house. My refrigerator won't run; lights are working but flicker when I turn fan on. I tested many of the receptacles and breaker boxes with meter and all that seems to be reading fine. Any help would be appreciated. Ty.
To me it sounds like you have a lost neutral rather than an open neutral. A loss neutral is where your neutral becomes disconnected or has a poor connection before your breaker panel. I have a separate video on lost neutrals. I would suggest you check the voltage before and after turning on a fairly heavy load such as a microwave or something like that. This test works best if you turn on a heavy 120-V load, rather than a 240-V load. If you get a voltage change of say 10 to 20 volts, I would definitely say you have a lost neutral. You did say that you have measured low voltages. With a lost neutral you should have some outlets reading high voltage, as well. With this lost neutral, your high and low voltages should add up to somewhere around 240 or 250 V. In other words, if you have low voltage of 90 V, for example, you should have a voltage on the other leg of your electrical service of about 150 V. If you do indeed only have low-voltage everywhere and no high-voltage anywhere, then the problem is not a lost neutral. I would suggest contacting your electric company at that point. I will definitely be interested to hear the final results of what you find. If you want to comment again and give me further details after you do this additional testing, that would be great.
@@morganinspectionservices3840 Thank you for the reply! Let me see if I can explain this a little bit better: Last year I started noticing some fluctuations with my fans; sometimes they would go too slow and sometimes they would go too fast; all my major appliances were working fine at the time. I called the power company and they checked things on their end; they replaced a couple things and also said some mice got into my outside breaker box. After that, my power was working fine for the next 9 months without me doing anything. Last month, I came home from an appointment, I heard my refrigerator kick on, and at the exact same time, a surge protector behind my TV fried/started smoking. I changed surge protectors, it fried the second one. I started having fluctuations with fans again, and when I turned on my skillet, it blew an overhead light bulb. The electrician came over, tested the outside breaker box and the inside breaker box; all readings were correct. I proceeded to show the electrician that I was having fluctuations in power; the electric weed wacker was either not hardly turning or turning way too fast. The outdoor receptacle was getting a high reading, at times. The electrician suggested that I replace the outdoor breaker box and the 100 amp breaker. I said ok, ordered the parts, but the electrician never came back. Without me doing anything, the electricity seemed to be working normal again for almost a month. I hooked up a couple surge protectors to be on the safe side. I'm patiently waiting for the electrician to return... Now to the present, or just a couple days ago, I get woken up by my fan kicking into overdrive. I go out to the kitchen and turn off the refrigerator. I turn on my Skillet and instantly my bedroom surge protector gets fried. The power company comes over, checks behind the outdoor meter, notices some corrosion, but the readings were coming back correct. My friend then took the volt meter, tested my inside breaker box but couldn't find any issues with the readings. All the receptacles are reading around 120, but none of the receptacles will run anything more than a fan or a light. So now, I have no refrigerator or skillet to cook with. My well pump and hot water (heat pump) seem to be working okay, thank goodness. I think that explains it. I'm not very familiar with these types of things, and it feels very foreign to me. I would appreciate more of your advice, if you don't mind. You look and sound very scientific. The experiments look cool, I just can't understand them completely. Thank you sir!
As a sparky and an uncle of two nieces and a nephew I'm a big believer in tamper resistant receptacles even in homes where all the children have grown up and moved out, since it's inevitable that small children will be in the house at some whether it's the nieces/nephews or grandchildren. Superior to the small plastic caps my parents used when I was a small child in the very early 1990s. Problem is at home depot, Lowe's and other hardware stores where I shop, none of them currently carry the tamper resistant version for the 240V 15 or 20A single receptacle like you might have in your living room if you have a larger window air conditioner. However, those same brick and mortar stores have plenty of single 120V 15 / 20A receptacles in tamper resistant version.
@@morganinspectionservices3840 yes, I just read the winner comment. That one really had me stumped. The only way I could see that as possible would be a backstab connection that wasn't good, I've personally ran across a number of burned out receptacles and every single one of them was backstab, the most severe of which happened when the neutral side burned up on a multiwire branch circuit in a living room after a 1500 watt electric fireplace had been running for some time and smoked up a 70 inch smart TV, DVR and stereo system, setting off the smoke detectors. The homeowners said they never seen so much smoke come out of a TV before and out of caution, doused it with two fire extinguishers then flipped the main breaker off. That whole ordeal would have been avoided, had the neutrals been pigtailed as required in article 300.13 (B) of the NEC, which states that in multiwire branch circuits, continuity of a grounded conductor (neutral) shall not depend on device connections such as lampholders, receptacles and so fourth, where the removal of such devices would interrupt the continuity.
