Come take a look over my shoulder while I have some fun in my shop.
It's going to be mostly hobby things I'm messing around with. Could be some electronics project. Maybe an Arduino thing. Occasionally it could even be my model railroad. Or just something else that catches my fancy.
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I have 3 of these things and recently installed new batteries in them. They all lit up and started counting when wiggled. However, one was registering two steps per wiggle. So I thought I'd check here and was surprised to not only find a video but was shocked to find a video of the exact one I'm having a problem with. When I opened mine though I found the wire spring laying loose inside. Not knowing how it was originally assembled led me here. So, after all that and feeling lucky to have found your video I was then disappointed to see that you just tore yours apart and left it like that. It would've impressed me (and been greater help) if you had put it back together and showed it still worked. Anyone can tear just about anything apart.. but what good is that? You were more informative about that crappy looking beer.. and spent just about the same amount of time on it. Long story short.. your video is about as useful as you.. so do us all a favor and don't waste our time making any more.
My go to is the BC-2, though I also use larger and smaller versions of the same shape. ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB10kYmhByWBuNkSmFPq6xguVXa3/5pcs-lot-T12-Soldering-Solder-Iron-Tips-T12-Series-Iron-Tip-For-Hakko-FX-951-STC.jpg
Thanks for the relaxing builds! At around the 20:00 mark, you used your CC/CV power supply and you were also able to monitor current draw. I searched through your videos but I was unable to discover where that came from. Was this a kit or did you get it commercially? You inspired me to buy a set of practice kits so I can practice my SMD soldering skills. I've been soldering point-to-point and thru-hole since the early 1970's. I'm learning new skills! Thanks again!
It's based on a BC3606 module: pileofstuff.ca/r/0o714 I built my own case for it a very long time ago: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-avv7dsoVO9o.html
I once assumed that the flat on LEDs always indicated the cathode, it took me ages once finding out what on earth was going on with a scratch built circuit the LEDs of which were refusing to cooperate, stupidly I tested everything but the LEDs, because why would they not just work? Voltages were all present and correct, and yeah, on closer scrutiny it turned out that on those particular, perfectly normal looking red LEDs, the anvil and such were reversed, and the flat was the anode. It was a proper head scratcher!! I now test every 3mm led I use with a CR2032 cell, I'm not gonna caught out like that again.
I believe I have all the Forrest MIms' books. That is how I started my journey in self-taught electronics. I still refer to those books for circuit ideas. The things we did before the internet !
And there was me feeling smug that I've got the 555 timer and the op-amp Mims' books, a much younger me really should have spent more pocket money on more of them before they became rare.
Agree 100% about soldering tip choice. I've been using the 'wrong kind' (fine point conical) for decades now. Once you're used to the flow timing, and it's not "too slow", then whichever tip you use is the right tip.
True, but remember what this is intended for. It's primarily for learning about circuitry and getting some soldering practice. If it gets deployed as an actual alarm, it'll be on a teenager's bedroom door or something like that. This isn't designed for Fort Knox...
Don't miss our Summer Sale. The Burglar Alarm kit is currently 40% off (C$3.57 instead of C$5.95). Cheapest shipping option (domestic only) is only C$3.55.
@@pileofstuff I knew already from ages ago, but I don't think you have actually, it would certainly explain that mixup. It would probably explain ohmeter testing the resistors too. I can see the colours unless it's the silly new through-hole things, but have never been able to learn them, so it's the multimeter to the rescue every time.
People that say "wrong tip" are not really right. It might be a tip they wouldn't use, but if you can work with it, there is no such thing as a wrong tip. I use to professionally repair satellite modems for IPStar , ThaiComm. The techs that trained me from ThaiComm had the chunkiest soldering iron tips to solder the finest surface mount chips. Thy never bridged one joint. First time every time they got it right when doing field board repairs. Use what you like and what you are comfortable with.
Side thought, how fun would it be to host a drunken PCB build race 😆 whoever can drink a preset a amount and then assemble and test their circuit the fastest wins lol 😆 I'm a bad influence
Hoping your LED Chaser toy is Charlieplex'd as well! 6 gpio pins may let it control 30 LEDs (n^2-n). Some factory fresh, legitimate, SSD/NVMe devices arrive with relocated sectors.
Thanks for the Mailbag ! The SSD is not even cheap.. I can get a name brand (patriot) 128G drive for 14 bucks over here. I have seen those "cheap" SSDs from ali express with just an sd-card in them.. but I think in your case it is a real drive.. a tear down (pop the lid) would be quite interesting though.
As others have said, can we get a look inside the SSD please? Also when testing, try writing more than 128gb, eg 150gb. If it doesn’t fail, it’s lying about its capacity.
I see two teardown candidates. The specs for the mic amp are hilarious but I suspect it has the simplest possible two transistor amplifier that isn’t nearly as efficient as it should be. The SSD likely does have a ssd card in it, but we’ll see.
