Thanks for making this! you helped me finally fix a lens I accidentally broke (2 years ago 💀) by somehow pulling the lenses and its helical gear straight out of the housing.
OMFG, finally a viable solution! Thank you, dear algorythm for suggesting this to me!!! And thank you for coming up with this solution, at least you're the first person I encounter with a dedicated video to this issue. May the FDM be with you.
Note - there absolutely IS a lift point in the front center - it's the same for the convertible also - I've had both and I own a Z4 coupe now. It's under the indentation of the aluminum panel - directly behind that aluminum panel is the steel cross member that supports the front weight - I've used it many times on the coupe thus far to jack it up from the center.
Very helpful video. This skid plate works great on my 2014 Honda CRF250L. Some very large rocks have deflected off this plate with no damage to the plate or bike.
Excellent video with clear instructions. I installed the red Acerbis X-Factor handguards on my 2014 Honda CRF250L and they work great. I smacked some thorny tree branches on my last ride with no injury to my hands.
bought this exact model for my 150cc gy6 and I’ve had no issues. It really isn’t a bad idea if you’re just looking for noise control and flow control. If you want to seriously see performance custom exhausts are the way to go. Pretty good piece though and sounds good too.
First, thanks for very thorough and detailed video - this kind of content is very useful! I found the video while searching if the Reckless (V4.0 nowadays) would fit my NX500, that I am about to pick next week. Seems quite convincing, even though this is earlier version. The only thing is that I haven't ordered the luggage rack for my bike so I'm wondering if the pillion handle bars will provide possibility to strap the system well enough..
I’m not familiar with the NX500 but if it’s similar to the CB, you should be setup well. I later put it on my CRF250L and it has served me well to this day.
NX500 is derived from CB500X with few improvements but much of the geometry (and even frame?) is same, and 500X again shares much things with CB500F, so I guess I would be good. Thanks!
Thank you for posting this video. I found this more helpful than another video with guys wearing official Ohlins shirts because you show the all the steps required in very good detail. Yes, it is a very tight fit to get the reservoir through the frame and drive gear area, but can be done without scratching the nice gold finish. The tape tip on the wrench to hold the top nut for the shock worked well since I did the job by myself. I got such a good deal on my gently used 2014 CRF250L, it was worth the money for me to install the Ohlins rear shock and rebuild the front forks with the Ohlins fork kit. What a transformation! No more pogo sticking and bottoming out and the handling is now awesome. With the Ohlins suspension, I can now safely ride technical trails at a fast and fun pace. With all the mods I have done, all in I have spent less than 50% of the cash it would take to buy a high performance dual sport bike, and I ride the same trails as riders with very expensive bikes. If you are ever in Sedona, AZ, look for me riding Red Dawn.
Thank you! I do my best to show information that can really help. You’re right about the suspension transforming this bike. The stock suspension made it feel like a cheap bike but the good suspension makes it ride like a dream. I’ve got my eye on Arizona so hopefully I get a chance to ride out there some day soon.
Unless you have very very strong hands, the friction cause by the o-ring requires a tool. Some people over tighten the cap and crack the plastic by applying too much torque. You’re effectively correct that the cap should only be “hand tightly” except that a tool is pretty much required.
I always do mine by hand I just put oil on the ring and threads. The plastic one is also better because it wears the threads less when used. To be fair though my n54 is a really clean example
The resistor and cap across the woofer is a Zobel network to compensate for the impedance rise at higher frequencies due to the inductance of the voice coil. That allows the inductor (this would be a 1st order crossover for the woofer) to see a flat impedance across the load at higher frequencies and allow it to work as calculated to block them. Otherwise you get less effectiveness from the inductor as frequency rises and it's counter productive.
This video helped me eliminate the crappy plastic cover, although I ended up not running the ball in the check valve as i could not get it sit properly. Was this a good idea? Great video and excellent documentation 👍
I was never happy with my PCV solution. Sadly, I had to sell the car before I could find something better. I encourage you to continue the development and share what you find.
Hi thank you for your very excellent insight Clearly cheap and small speakers have limitation But as satellites they could work quite fine It is important to cut them below 150Hz more or less and send the remaining range to a proper woofer in a separate box The result can be surprising I did something of the kind in the past with a couple of Mission speakers and i was amazed Finally i ruined the speakers using them full range at too high power They had a small coil ... not for super power But used cut in the lower range they sounded fantastic
Yes, I know. It annoys me too when people think they actually stretch. However, as a common term that general audience understand/expect, stretch gets the message across just fine.
Great video. Thank you for uploading. Any chance that you know what size the screws are for the Klipsch r-52c? I have the one with copper screws around the horn and speakers, but I want to get black ones. Thanks in advance.
It’s worth looking at for sure but it may be a symptom and not the problem. I’ve heard that O2 sensors should be a preventative maintenance item on these engines so that’s also something to consider.
I just called snap on , they sent me the rebuild kit for free. They also gave me an option of just replacing it for free. Next time call the snap on warranty department!!!
GR research is gonna be mad at you for giving up this basic physics away for free. 😅😅😅. Good job man. I wish people can learn the physics behind this. It is gonna blow their mind.
Prefilling is not needed, just oil the seal and screw it on, dump in some 0W-20 and drive it before the blue light goes off. I'll be using a Purolator BOSS filters in one of my changes.
Hey mate, I know it's an old video but I'm grasping at straws here. I've had a pair of R-15PMs for about 5 or so years, went to use them the other morning and they just won't turn on, I've tried different outlets, different cables you name it, nothing. Any ideas what might be wrong? I'd love to keep using them, will probably take them to a local speaker place to get them repaired but wanted to ask if anyone here had any suggestions first.
PM stands for Powered Monitor. If it won’t even power on with a status indicator, then it’s possibly the power switch which is no longer making contact. I’m not sure if the power supply is internal or external. If it’s internal, it could be faulty. Obviously I can do any more than guess from here. Just very the power source is good and the main switch it making good contact.
@@Casey_Schmidt Thank you for the quick reply! It does have an internal power supply, and the power switch has pretty much stayed on, since the speakers will just automatically turn on and off with the optical cable I have them plugged in with. I may open them up to see if I see anything abnormal.
