Question: I've been looking at setting up a battery bank for my Campervan, Why is it everyone says you cant use a 20s JK BMS for 12 or 24v? Why can't I hook up say 16 cells (280ah) in a configuration of series and Parallel to make 12v at 1,120Ah Is it the configuration of series and parallel that the BMS can't read correctly? Would I then have to use 4x BMS's each connected to 4x Cells or is there another way to just use 1 BMS that controls the whole lot? Cheers for the information, love the content!
Thanks for the video. I have a JK BMS as well and use it for a LiFePO4 4S battery. When I compare it to my JBD BMS and leave it idle (only battery and jk bms) for about a month, I notice that I lose a significant amount of AH with the JK BMS, whereas I don't have this issue with the JBD BMS. The consumption of the JK BMS is dramatically high. Is there anything I can do about this? I have used two of them, and both have shown this problem.
Have Gen2 and original router made to 12 volt. Litium battery and solar panels, never had a problem since 12 month It is on my boat and always in flat position.
I bought a 12 12 30 isolated Victron for my Land Rover. However i want to enable the victron to be bipassed when winching so i can get max amps from my two batteries. I used to have a VSR relay wired via a switch to enable this and it also enabled jump starting of the main battery in emergency. Is it possible to have such a set up with the Victron as i do like the fact its topping up my second battery much faster than the VSR did. Thank you
Gen2 dishys take allot of Amps on boot. You might want to experiment with a desktop PSU and set to 13.3V and vary Amp as they seem to need more than 5A to boot and stay on.
That's normal for them to swell they all do it, The electrons move under between the plates making expand then as cell discharges it gets narrow again, nothing can stop that you could squeeze them together but when it charges back up it expands again so why bother squeezing them just made more cell movement.
What if the BMS shows up as an option to pair device, but won't actually connect? It does not show up in the SmartBMS app, either. Full disclosure: I misunderstood what I was looking at for instructions, and connected both big leads from the BMS to the + and - of my battery pack, which would typically be a short circuit, but it did absolutely nothing. Or so it would appear after two weeks of it connected that way. Now, with the big leads going where they should, I'm having trouble connecting the bluetooth module...
before you have to get through all this rambling about nothing....the simple answer is NO you dont need a DC to DC charger. In reality the answer is YES. Your car alernator will not output the 14.2-14.6 volt needed to completely charge your lithium battery. In most cases you can use the 12v source of your trailer plug if you stay under about 20 amp of charging current. If you want to run a 40 amp or higher output for charging you have to make sure that your alternator will support said load. You also have to run cable directly from the alternator if you want to use more than 20 amp. Victron has a 12/12/18 charger that works perfect. Your battery also needs a Shunt. You also should consider that the dc charger will get very hot during operation, even more so the 40 amp units.
Replacing my Renogy 60A one with this Orion XS 50A. I already have 2 AWG wires - can it fit or do I need to hook that wire to a bus bar and then an 4AWG from the bus bar to the charger?
You need to qualify the amp hour calculation for newbies. If you put batteries in series, you don't add the Amp hours you add the Voltage. If you put batteries in parallel you add the amp hours. In the example in the video a 12.8V (4P) system is 1120Ah, a 25.6V system (2S2P) is 560Ah and a 51.2V (4S) system is 280Ah.
3.0v is too low for balance start. That will overwork the balance circuitry and potentially cause a large imbalance or other issues. 3.375v should be the minimum.
in my short Microcamper the 4' run from my starter into the charger will be 4awg copper, but okay to use existing 8awg copper OUT of the charger to the house lithium for a 7' run?
Hello sir.. I am having problem that jk bms going tompshort circuit protection,even there is no problem in load or charge,this inverter is running v good on lead acid battery...but 24v100ah eqquiped with jk bms is creating problem,again &again that short circuit protection....pls advice.what is the sloution
I was thinking about rigging my panels (4x 100w Renogy cheapies that don't like shade) so that I could switch them between series and parallel so as to be able to choose how to best deal with shadows, or cloudy days when the voltage is too low. Do you think this would be worthwhile?
If the panel and cells have integrated bypass diodes, it will not block the whole string. Cheap panels don't have integrated diods and will block the whole string...
I guess most people with a Victron MPPT will not have Victron panels. More useful to most of us would be the same test with non Victron panels. This would also show us why we should get Victron panels in the future. Assuming that they are better etc...
Victron panels may be different but unfortunately most other panels do lose most of their output if put in series and there is some shading on one of them. I have done this testing myself (similar to what you did) and documented it. I think the most valuable thing about your video is that people should test their panels before setting things up so as to guide their set up and what is necessary for optimum efficacy
I have the same issue, if you follow the wires from either rear light cluster you will find junction boxes both sides hooked up and wrapped up along the chassis. Remove the clips by snipping and then unwrap the tape and you can then use a multimeter to test each wire with lights on you can see what is getting power, a few of mine like brake light and fog were getting power up tk the box bt not up to the light so I snipped and by passed the box and now have those lights working. Only problem I have now is the drivers side rear indicator isn't working and the blinker is flashing fast on the dash, front and side indicator working and bulb for the rear is fine too. I have by passed the box as I have power and it still isn't working also have power to the cluster for the indicator as I tested with multimeter (this jumps up and down in volts as the light flashes which matches the volts jumping on the good side passenger indicator works) what could possibly cause this as I have also removed the stalk and cleaned the contacts for all lights and washer wiper side. Ahhhhhhhh any ideas people?,
just some feedback, if you can't talk for more than 10 seconds without catching your breath or having to clear your throat, you should cut the video at the end of each talking point. I couldn't pay attention at all because I was focused on the noise about every 10 seconds. not trying to be rude, just giving some honest feedback so you can potentially keep viewers attention and get more views.
Great video. I've installed a 12-12 15 amp Orion TR in a towable RV for a 100 amp/hr lithium battery. I'm using #6 (somewhat heavy gauge wire) all the way from pickup truck tow vehicle battery to input of DC-DC (probably 30 foot of wire total). One connector is used near the hitch point. The other minor resistance points are the terminal lugs under the truck engine hood and the in-line 30 amp circuit breaker next to truck battery. I'm able to get nearly full tow vehicle voltage to the DC-DC now. The original pickup truck wiring was only #12 wire and I was losing 1.5 volts between truck battery and DC-DC. Question: Where is the link to your document for the Orion? I found the link for the Victron shunt in a previous video. Thanks
The video is really painful. It's really difficult to do worse than that. The Victron shows such a different result from the other two shunts that it makes no sense to make the comparison that the guy had intended. Don't waste other people's time and do something more relevant to your abilities.
V10.50 I like it because a) I have the RC displayed on a spare Win7 laptop with 14" full screen. b) It shows my x5 temp sensors & water level at the bottom. Only thing I had to do was abbreviate the names to 3 characters - Battery became Bat, etc. Super easy to install once you get the SetupHelper file installed all done remotely.
How did you remove the Steering wheel cover ! my wipers won't work so looks like i mat need to change my stalks, can you tell me where you got the replacement
I just bought my first lithium batteries and smart shunt and was struggling to figure out how to set all the settings. This video was exceptional and extremely helpful, I am thrilled that I found your channel and thank you so much for your thorough explanation!
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you for sharing! Is ventilation/cooling a consideration if things get too toasty? 24v heating pads are more common now, and I am considering adding a thin layer of closed-cell insulation to the inner floor and walls. Would you still stick with 3 x 30-watt pads? To the 'never work' comments, we're not trying to roast a chicken, just keep things above freezing.
