Thank you for sharing these very helpful tips. They are so appreciated! I collect vintage and antique metal horse figurines which I usually find on eBay. Unfortunately, they often arrive with broken ears, legs, tails, stirrups, etc. due to insufficient packing, and it is so challenging to try to save them and carefully reattach broken copper, gold, or silver plated pot metal parts securely so the broken parts stay together and the repair is not noticeable or distracting. Unlike porcelain or ceramic, the metal parts rarely fit back together seamlessly after breaking because they often bend or distort a bit before they finally break. It is almost impossible to find a silversmith who can or will take on restoring and replating pot metal figurines, probably due to the inconsistent and unpredictable content of the base metal, not to mention the price (likely justified) for that kind of work. Thinning the milliput a little so it can bridge hairline cracks on some of my repaired horses sounds like it may be just the solution I've been looking for on some pieces. One in particular has a front leg repair that I did years ago (with Devcon 2 Ton epoxy) and I can't wait to try this to fill the crack where the repair still shows so it displays nicely again.
A list of tools and materials used is in the "description" section below the video. If you watch the video again and pay attention this time, the answer to your question is there: Hyxtal is the bonding agent.
Thanks for the in-depth video. Did you use a tile to mix the Milliput on? If so did you paint the tile with something to make sure the Milliput doesn't stick to the surface as much.
Another super repair job. Haven't seen you use that matte restoration glaze before--very informative. Also not familiar with Kaiser porcelain, but this particular piece is lovely.
Because often the paint doesn't adhere well to the ceramic glaze. I give it tow or three coats of cold glaze, then sand it to give the paint something to stick to.
Because often the paint doesn't adhere well to the ceramic glaze, or to glass. I give it two or three coats of cold glaze, then sand it to give the paint something to stick to.
Absolutely painstaking work and the result speaks for itself. You are masterful at restoration. I would have taught the piece was unsalvageable but was proven wrong. Thank You for Sharing.
6 years later and I'm watching this completely enthralled. I once saw Japanese masters restore a piece that no one could tell was broken in the first place. This restoration is the only demonstration that has even come close. I'm truly amazed.
I follow you from the heart of France. In fact, I say that you are the best teacher with extensive experience. Thank you for all the educational videos that you provided for us. You deserve appreciation.🏆🙏
I've been watching a few of his videos, and I've started fixing a few pieces of my own ceramics. I don't have his bonding agent, so I'm just using epoxy from the hardware store. They're not valuable pieces, so I don't mind using cheaper repair materials.
Lovely nice work on the repair. Those pitchers are beautiful, and unusual. How interesting that you repaired one of the same type, previously. I would think the owners would keep these safely displayed in a glass cabinet--they are quite expensive, and likely impossible to replace nowadays.
Great tips for milliput, my first package i definitely touched one then the other and had it cure and ruin part of it. Its an absolutely wonderful product, ive fixed and made so many things with it
Great tutorial. I have been wondering how to dilute milliput. I wasn’t sure if it was water or alcohol that was added. Up to now I have struggled and failed miserably trying to mix it. Your chopping and folding method makes so much sense. I can’t wait to give it a try.
Please may I ask you about painting two different abutting colours. Do you paint both colours before glazing, or do you paint and glaze the first colour before proceeding to the second colour? If you apply brisket directly over an area you have painted but not glazed will the paint come off with the brisket? Will it leave a hard line along the previous edge of the brisket?
usually, I put on a coat of cold glaze before painting the next color, because if I make a mistake it's difficult to wipe off the mistake without taking some of the previous coat of paint with it. (unless the two colors are not near each other). If I'm painting with a latex frisket (mask), I would protect the previous paint coat with cold glaze before applying the frisket. The latex frisket, most of the time, will not pull up the previous coat of paint. But when using an airbrush, the coating can be very thin, especially when fading out to zero, and it's possible you'll rub off some of that paint layer with your fingers. So, it's a good idea to seal each application of a different color with the sealer (cold glaze). Yes, the frisket will leave a hard edge if you paint up to that edge. Be aware that if you use masking tape as your mask, it needs to be "de-tacked" (make it lest sticky by sticking it to your jeans and pulling it off a couple times, using the lint of the fabric to make it lest sticky) before you apply it or you'll pull up the cold glaze and the previous paint layer with it!!
Thank you so very much for this information. This explains so many of the problems I have been having. I’m at the stage of painting the arm and the chest of a Lladro, one white, one grey. I’ve literally been tearing my hair out trying to figure out what was going on. I know you are aware of how difficult it is to mix Lladro greys and whites. Great to see you recently added a tutorial on Milliput. So I’m looking forward to more brilliant tutorials.
I use Golden brand "Porcelain Restoration Glaze (matte)". It's very thick and must be diluted with Golden's airbrush medium in order to spray through an airbrush. Or you could get the (dry powder) matting agent to add to the Sylmasta Cold Glaze Pro ll. Get that from Sylmasta
I love these tutorials. I come back to them time and time again and re-watch them. Each time I do I learn something I managed to miss previous. This time I picked up on your explanation of why you apply and sand multiple coats of glaze before painting I’m trying to use masking for the first time and I’ve had a few problems. I remembered you applied masking during this restoration, so I came back to see how you applied the mask. It was very useful, I even bought a load of plastic bristle brushes. 🙄 In this video you use a very high quality brush to paint the horses bridal, may I ask you what make it is please? Shortly after I retired I took up restoration as a hobby after watching a few of your tutorials. I’m making good progress, and absolutely everything I know I learnt from you. Thank you so very much. I hope you will continue to keep producing these, fantastic tutorials. I look forward to seeing some new releases. Until then I’ll just keep rewatching those I already have.
I'm happy to hear that you found my videos instructive. The brush you are asking about is called a "liner" brush. The brand is not important. As long as you get a pro artist quality brush it will serve you well. The one I'm using in the video is a "Royal" brand liner #0 (model SG585).
What amazing work, especially filling the areas where the broken pieces were missing. The airbrush painting was also remarkable--really incredible results.
Yes, but you need to use the kind that doesn't scratch the glaze. Use "Micro-Mesh" sandpaper. You can look it up on line. You want to get these grits: 1800, 2400, 3200, 4000, 6000.
I wanted to make a suggestion as I have tried all kinds of products to fix various statues and figures. Fiberglass mesh tape that you use on drywall to fix holes works really well. It is really strong once filled. It also has a tacky adhesive in it. I use bondo and the mesh holds the product well. I have also used crumpled aluminum foil to pack big holes. I’ve tried plumbers putty but have found it doesn’t dry well if your weather isn’t dry and 70 are above. So if you try that method and it’s not getting hard you can use a heat gun on a low setting to speed the drying process. I have also tried great stuff foam but if your resin statue has a lot of cracks it can make it worse so the Great Stuff expanding foam for windows expands much slower and works a lot better. Just some other alternatives. I like your tip about the milliputty balls. Made me think about saving excess foam from the Great Stuff product to use as filler. Thank you for sharing.
Honestly as an artist I would never take A B or C!! if you want something repaired just repair as well as you can. Would you want a painting half painted 😮
