Thanks for watching!

Sorry for the late reply. A change key is the same as the working key with a notch cut off the back of the key. So, duplicate the key and using the old change key, duplicate the missing notch from the original change key to one of the new keys.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. Americans are nice fidget toys! LOL Enjoy!

Sorry again for the late reply. My 3D printer is not working at the moment, but I do have one extra tray. My email is in my about section if you still want one. I have a bunch of older “low level” locks if you need some.

@@Freediver_72 I'm interested in all types of locks if you wanna shoot me a price that would be sweet

@cameronrich2536 email me.

Ok just did

Sorry for the late reply. The tensioner is a Sparrows that I bent right at the edge of the knurled section to about 30 degrees.

Thanks! Best of luck on it. I have another video from around the same timeframe that shows my tensioner. For me that was the hardest part, to get the tensioner to cross the gap and tension the back half.

Thanks! Yeah, it can be used as a weapon!

Thanks! I appreciate the compliment. Hope you get a smooth open!

Thanks. When I left Amazon I almost made a channel dedicated to exposing all the tricks that people use and some of the things to look for. But once I was out of there…. It was like being freed from prison, I almost didn’t know how to act.

@@Freediver_72 I'm not envious, I know a lot of people that work in warehouses for them, same deal they do it because they have to not want to.

Thank you. Yeah, the clear one is very unique! I may have to start looking for more colors and some of the other keyways.

Thanks! Hope you weekend was peaceful and your week goes smooth!

Thanks!

Hope it works or you. BBTelPix was able to start getting opens. Once into he false set the spools give a lot of vibration n the pick runs across them. The spring on the actuator of 1100’s and other kills that feedback I think.

Thanks. You can get ‘em! Press slowly in the counter rotation. Just takes a little to learn.

The spring on the actuator of the 1100 kills some feedback. The 410 core in an 1100 body is more difficult than in the plastic body in my opinion. Some 1100s are easier than others. To me the harder ones feel mushy when first starting to pick them, I always start at the back on the 1100 and sometimes have to press on 5 then 4 then back to 5 then 4 again, maybe a few times of that. Once the back 2 pins firm up the rest of the pins start to firm up too. You’ll get em!

@@Freediver_72 I've had some 1100s with the master cores in them but I wound up giving them away before I ever picked one, but I did receive two of my American locks that I keep from Joe Picks that he gave me and also paracentric sent me a couple. All the master locks that I had bought I wound up giving away for really need to pick them but I also have others American locks on my work area and I guess I need to probably just do a video on some of the locks in my lock collection

@@j.gabriel8573 well, if you can pick the 410, I believe in your ability to pick an 1100, just takes practice to learn their feel. They are a fun lock overall. Pin 1 is always a pain in them too! LOL take out some pins, leave like three, with 2 spools and a serrated or standard. Learn how they feel before and after the standard or serrated is set. It won’t replicate the mushy 1100’s, but it gets you most of the way there. I sit with a pile of them in my lap and watch a movie and pick. I don’t care how long it takes me to pick it, I’m not really thinking about it, I’m just feeling the pins and the feedback. Not even focused on the lock. It’s like everything is in my hands, nothing in my brain (of course that is impossible, but you know what I mean…)

@@Freediver_72 That's the game plan, I had thought about progressing pinning those before Fish Picks made his video and learning those through the help of Isaac. It is one item on my to do list eventually

Yeah, I’ve tried to bid on some around $100 but the bid never holds. I think some people that sell have multiple accounts and if they don’t get the price they want they bid it up with a second account. I’ve seen a few of these come back on the market from the same owner after being “sold” but the buyer backed out…then they offer the person that was out bid a second chance offer, so they are driving them up to their max bid then offering it to them at their max bid. Scammers everywhere.

@@Freediver_72 that’s exactly what’s going on freediver! I had this exact conversation. I even turned in this one asshole for bidding me up! I know it was the original owner because of how it was done. He put it out multiple times to be bidded on. Know one ever bud but me finally. Then all of a sudden it’s a bidding war with him…. Yeah they need to clean that shit up. Either ya try and keep it legitimate or people gonna walk🤷🏼. I haven’t bid on another since then. Matter of fact I haven’t seen the asshole that was doing them round American locks from that account anymore. Shit was doing every other day. But couldn’t get one for under a 120$. Funny that. I watched it for a few weeks. Trying off and on. Then when that happens two times I finally realized the gig. Hope they booted his ass and the extra account. I mean ya’d think that ya could catch some of that🤷🏼.

Thanks Chris. What model is the one you have that is two piece?

@@Freediver_72 think I have both models . 🐈🐾🐈‍⬛🐾👍

I have been looking for these on eBay. It looks like some sell relatively cheap from time to time, but every time I bid on them at a starting bid of $120 or so they end up selling for $250

Thanks!

Yeah, with these Masterlock keyways, it’s not uncommon… I got an envelope from you yesterday, I opened it and was like…. Who sent me an empty envelope…. Then I saw the sticker way in the bottom! Hahahaha Thanks for sending one!

@@Freediver_72 😂 I ended up running out of thank you cards so you must have been the one with no card. 🐍

LOL, it took me a bit even after seeing the lock to realize what I had picked.

Thanks Chris!

Thanks! Have you made any challenge locks?

The last two being zero lift was a little deflating, but it’s still a nice lock. Thanks for it!

Thanks Chris. The Burgs are nice…

Thanks for stopping by!

Thanks for the info! Yeah, I have a full size EC75 with tapers and spools… it is a total headache!

@@Freediver_72 I've got the EC 75/60 in my naughty bucket... I can get it to a false set but I've never had an open from it yet.

@@Myloks same

I figured you would like this lil dimple! 😀

Thanks B-Can!

Thanks. Putting the actuator back in is not too difficult. It can be a challenge if there is no grease on the bearings. Basically, you hold the shackle so it’s in almost all the way, aligning the half moons in the shackle to the hole where the bearing sits, so that the bearing can fully retract from where the actuator sits. Then drop the bearings in and with a pick or some other tool, push the bearings into the holes. Grease on the bearings helps in that it lessens the likelihood of the bearings rolling back into where the actuator goes. Then you drop the actuator it, make sure it’s aligned correctly and seat it into the bottom. If it won’t seat, one of the bearings likely rolled out of its hole. The first time or two it might be a little tricky, but it gets easier and most people that struggle don’t have grease in there and it takes quite a balancing act/steady hand sometimes.

@@Freediver_72 Thanx so much. I have not had one fall out YET.

@@ImGumbyDangit it does not happen often, but I have done it. Most take a bit of tapping to get them out, but…. I’d say just try one, it’s not so bad.

Thanks. On another crimped Masterlock core I pried the crimp, then ground/sanded off the lip where they crimp it and then used a C-clip. I’ve talked about rivet removal in the past and I talked about the grinding of the crimped core buried in another video somewhere. Maybe I should have done a complete video on the process on this one… maybe a future project for me as well.

@@Freediver_72 awe that’s a great idea. Im gonna look thru some of ur stuff and find the c-clip idea. I think I remember that. It’s been within the last 2 years because I kinda remember that! Think it was with a loto core ya was doing or key retaining loto core. Something like that… probably mixing two videos together 😝🤷🏼

@@SadisticPicker its probably in my video about Eagle. I think. Because I used the core from my first CL attempt which was from a ML Pro 930xxxxx a bunch of letters I don’t recall, and oddly enough the core was crimped, which was surprising to me. Basically though, there is a lip on the back end that gets crimped in 2 spots. I just Dremeled and filed it down flat until the C-clip would go on. I got a C-clip from Ace Hardware that worked. At the time I did not have much for spare parts.

@@Freediver_72 awesome thanks for that! I will be going to hardware for some c-clips. I have an old old Zues Ikon I want to find a clip for….. 2 birds and one stone’n all that🤷🏼😝

Thanks. One of the Meade Johnson labeled 417’s I opened did have master wafers in it, but they were on short key pins where the top pin went down into the core. It’s the only time I’ve seen that in a LOTO. I’m not saying they could not be mastered, but that seems like it would defeat the LOTO purpose. According to US OSHA standard 1910.147 one of the things that must be demonstrated in an inspection is: “the lockout device is under the exclusive control of the authorized employee performing the servicing or maintenance”.

@@Freediver_72 yes exactly the same here in Australia. However some countries the laws are more laxed so I think that is who Master Lock target with these locks

Thanks man, that was a fun project. I really enjoyed the design process of each part.

Thanks Chris. It is fun to have the reversed keyway in the inventory.

Thanks!

Thanks. I have not seen a 413. Of all the LOTO’s I’ve had that say 410 on the box the key is always stamped 401 and the reverse is stamped 417. I know Masterlock has a 900, 6000 and a 7000 series key, but I believe (my assumption) those are the Pro Series keys and not marked with Do Not Duplicate. I think only the 400’s and the Edge are DND, with the Edge keys registered through Masterlock and only Masterlock can replace the key. I bought an Edge through a locksmith and I had to give them my name address and phone to register the lock, same with brand new R1 and R2 American keys and cylinders I got from Mrlock online. I’m not a Masterlock expert, so what I said is likely not 100% accurate and some things are just my assumptions! I would be interested to see the other 400 series keys in person to compare them. The Masterlock technical service manual only shows the 400 as K400/W400 which has the slight twists in the keyway diagram which my 401’s and 417’s do not have. So I guess I have a little searching to do.

They are fun and nice to have. Not as common to see as the 401 keyway.

Thanks. I am far from a Masterlock expert. I would have to look around to see if there are smaller ones than the 7. I don’t believe they can be much smaller with the rivet positions and also the Bible having to fit within everything.

$7.82 for one at mrlock.com, plush shipping though, so yeah $15 - $17 LOL Thanks 😊

Yeah, asleep at the wheel! Hahahaha

Thanks, a fun group of locks from Manipu Lator

I had not looked for one. Joe Picks says they are like $15 new. Mrlock.com has them for $7.82 but then shipping, about $15, unless you order other stuff. I know there is a Masterlock manual, like the American manual, but not sure if it lists all the styles of the laminated locks. This one has no key and no name band on the bottom, but it you want it…

@@Freediver_72 awesome I’ll look and see if I can get one. Thanks. I’m slowly building up the masterlock numbers. I’ve been locky and found like 5 for super cheap. Ofcource like a dummy I paid way to much for a few because I liked the body. But yeah awesomeness thanks for that!

Thanks. I wish the Eagle had a key. I have a Chinese made Diamond padlock I need find some info on too. No idea how it picks. Looks like it would be a wafer lock, but looking into it, it does not seem to be…

@@Freediver_72 they make different ones. Could be a pin tumbler. 🐈🐾🐈‍⬛🐾

It does not exactly look like a pin tumbler either. I looked briefly at it and my otoscope camera thing died. I will get some pictures and email you. And also I will do some google-fu to see if I can find anything similar.

Thanks. I thought the Eagle was pretty interesting. Just wish it had a met! 😀

Thanks. I was a little unsure about the Eagle at first glance. Then I picked it pretty quick. I wish it had a key, but, it will look nice on the shelf next to the old Yale padlock…

I did a video on the process, then followed up with a cutaway as well. It’s not hard. I have not found a brass shackle yet, so I put a steel one in for now.

@LockedOut [Freediver72] Yes, it looks really easy. Thank you. Good luck finding the brass shackle!

I think I had a little more room, the top pins did not fall in the bottom of the keyway yet. Had the top pins hit the keyway I probably would have gotten flustered and without thinking I would have tipped the lock and dumped the key pins 😀😂😢. So glad I realized it I time, I was talking and not paying attention.

Yeah, I was not really present at that moment. Luckily I woke up in time! LOL Thanks for watching and commenting!

The double looped rope is clever. Inbox outbox.

@@senorsilky Thanks! 😬