This channel is about sharing what I have learned and also showing viewers steps in order to help achieve goals. I go through processes in edited videos that get to the point. I also reveal mistakes along the way that will help others. My focus is not limited to just performance automotive, although that will be my core content. There will be engine, transmission, and car builds documented along the way.
@@kylehalpren6203 lucerne is a different platform. The good news is that the 4t80 was used by gm on that chassis as far as i can tell. It likely wasnt used with the 3.8 though. Youd have to do some research on that end
The shape and position of the air cleaner lid has a lot more effect on the flow through a carb, I did this testing 10+ years ago and found you need a minimum of 3” between the top of the carb and the air cleaner lid, lower than that and you start seeing significant reduction of flow through the carb.
I knew my bellmouth stack would work! 😂 Interesting that the numbers were only affected by a max / minus of 4cfm though 😯 Looks like changes to the entry of a carburetor affect airflow more dramatically the closer to the venturi you get? 🤔 Interesting! 😃
@@newguysgarage6802 on a previous test i added a 1 inch drop base to a holley 950 (5.5" 555cfm) it added 3 cfm compared to no carb inlet. I agree that the window is really tight. Theres some trade offs for funneling the air it seems.
Hey I see you made a 4t80 work on a p04 pcm. I T’d off of pin E and connect that to pin U. Im having trouble getting mine to work properly. I have a 3800 mated to an all stock low mile 1995 4t80. It’s actually in an N body running on 4t45e calibration so the shift logic should be correct. Although i do know how to change it. I changed the iss count to 39 and changed the gear ratios. Not sure if i have the pulse per mile correct thought. Mine is the 3.48 fdr. I have dhp and am fairly proficient with the bin file. The issue im having is that in “D” it will only shift 1-2. In “3” it will shift 1-2-3. In “1” it will actually still shift 1-2. Im also in Wisconsin! An help would be much appreciated. Messaging me on messenger is cool too. Gauge Dochnahl.
@@Gawge1 pulses / mile should be based off tire size. I had to do some reverse math and google searching but i believe the tooth count for the output speed pickup on the diff is 31 teeth. Do you know what you entered for pulses per mile? What is your tire size?
@@josephnowakright now its just on a stock size 205/65R15 just to get it rolling but its going to be a 275/40R17. Eventually that will change again to a 15” slick when i buy some. Still not sure that this is my issue though but worth a shot.
@@Gawge1 il sent you the math in messenger. I suggest dialing in the tire size and go from there. These fwd pcms are finicky. My tuner and I had to do several iterations on hpt to get mine to work. Starting point for the 205 - 24518. Starting point for 275 - 24327.
@@Grunpyoldbastard In a different video i used a reworked 85-0400 (holley square bore milled choke horn) with an air cleaner base to try to figure out if it would help. This was done on the same reworked 950 hp carb. They dont make one for a carb without a choke horn so i contoured the primary side of the stubstack. Without the air cleaner we didnt see a difference. The carburetor might be too good for this testing this type of inlet. Im not sure. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@heathparks-i3d i think i used the output speed sensor out of the 65e only because the one on my 80 was damaged. If i recall both take the same delphi plug and looked similar. Its been 2 or 3 years since i plugged it all in.
@@heathparks-i3d i heard that too. In my other video i believe i show the linkage bracket to the transmission. I overlaid the stock gtp bracket w the cadi bracket on the trans because the shift cable locking tabs are a different size, welded the bracket and painted it. Slotted the holes in the bracket for adjustement. Made sure my starting point was good. Stock gtp shifter
Wow! So over the stock carburetor we are over 100CFM more, double the booster signal, with keeping the stock venturi diameter and butterfly diameter 😮😮😮 That is crazy! 😂 So the booster signal doubled this time compared to last time meaning it should keep up with the additional 100cfm correct? 🤔
Im not sure if it good or too good. I predict itl need smaller jets. Beyond that is some uncharted territory for me on the fuel curve side. Another thing that may screw with how it works is if the fuel will still atomize correctly. The air pressure and flow numbers definitely look good. 100cfm, booster 2x
@@josephnowak I agree it would need smaller jets, with such high booster signal throttle response would be amazing I think! As far as atomization I'm not 100% sure but I would have to think since it is being pulled on that much harder the fuel would be broken into smaller droplets when it hits the airstream 🤔 And if that is the case imagine up scaling that performance with a much larger carburetor, being able to run a big cfm carb for the drag strip yet still having the booster signal to run around on the street.....best of both worlds 😃
Man i did worong for the f16s in the airforce and i know how to build the jets wiring harneses but theparts where standardized and there was a technical manual. Im thinking i could do that part from scratch
I ended up sourcing the connector bodies and terminals and sealed relay from ballenger motorsports and assorted wiring colors from amazon. The other way is just extending what you have and repinning. Depends on how you want to go about it and your budget.
Built is a reletive term for me. I had a 4340 input. 300m output and 7/8 chain. I pulled the trans apart for the final time to do a checkup and the chain was either stretched or worn. I attempted to do a case brace to try to extend the life of the next chain but the mods to the case warped it. Then i turned my attention to 4t80e swap as it seemed like a better route at the time
I called comp cams and told them what i wanted. I wanted something not on a 116 lsa. If you want the same cam here are the specs at .050. 228/235 .386"/.375" int/exh 112 lsa. With 1.6 rocker .617"/.600" lift. I'm using a crow 140 spring. Guides need to be cut
Sounds like a cool project. The only items that needed to be changed for the 4t80e swap into a 1998 3.8sc car were input, output, and sprocket ratio to get mine to work. I also had to make a jumper harness and went w a relay to change the trans solenoid logic. I have no experience putting a 3.8 into a cadi so not sure if there are other details.
@averryGaming my setup is a 3:11 diff. 3 things that had to be changed. Drivesprocket ratio 1:1. Pulses/rev (input) 39. Pulses/mile (output) 23434. This is using the 3.8sc pcm to control the 4t80e.
The external switch i transfered from the original 65e. I ground 2 flats on the 80e shaft and repositioned the switch. Made some small tab brackets to hold the switch in place. Didnt have to extend factory wires.
I ran into this. I was told that to hook up what is available. For a while i drove w the 2005+ switch and through the course of debugging i had pulled the vb off and drilled the remaining holes to adapt the earlier switch. I grabbed a switch plug from a 4l60e and wired it in to where i thought that 3rd wire would go. Long story short a i never changed the input count in my file. Once i changed that everything worked. Although i havent tried it, i believe if my cal was correct from the beginning i would of not had to adapt to the earlier switch.
I have a 1992 Pontiac Bonneville and im tryna build. Engine already rebuild head gasket replaced. Everything. But im just trying get more torque power what do i need to two do?
I am not as familiar with the series 1 3800 which i assume your bonne has. Id look into the supercharged setup that would of came with the bonneville ssei models
I found an error in my trans tune. Correcting input tooth count from 25 to 39 allowed tcc to work with pcm command. It also allowed shift adapts to work curing firm shifts durring normal cruising. One exception is when it pops the rear knock sensor code it will default back to no tcc. Im sure there is a way to fix that i just havent put time into it.
I have a 1999 MXZ with 5000 miles and a 2003 MXZ with 2000 miles. I paid $1000 for the 1999 and spent about $2500 in maintenance and parts for skis, a seat, carb boots, fuel pump and carb rebuilds, Runners, windshield, plugs, brake pads, new shocks all the way around & etc. If it was a wear item it was worn out on the 1999. The 2003 had far fewer needs and was always garaged instead of an outdoor stored sled. The 2003 Was $2000 up front and cost me $1500 in repairs for new intake boots, full maintenance service for the fuel system since it sat a few years, it needed a new bumper and a new kill switch. I find that the 1999 is cheaper to run than the 2003 because repair parts for the 2003 are ridiculously expensive. Despite the 1999 and the 2003 both being 600CC engines, the 1999 is Carburated and the 2003 is Fuel Injected. You would think that would make a 2003 with only 2000 miles on it cheaper as there should be fewer attachments. But the 2003 Intake Boots were $240 each and the 1999 boots were $35 each despite looking very similar. When all was said and done after 5 or so years I have about $3500 in the 1999 and $3500 in the 2003 and both a great little sleds. I am upgrading the 1999 to precision skis to match the 2003's handling and eliminate darting this year, but other than that they ride very similar. I am looking at 2 more ZX chassis sleds. Both are renegade 600s for $500 and $550. Hopefully they don't cost me $2500 each to get them back in tip top shape, but they will need new seats and new bumpers as well as full tune up/trail ready service. If they have the EFI engines I am sure that I am looking at about $800 each just for intake boots, fuel system cleaning and chassis lubrication. When it comes down to it. It seems no matter what I buy, a ZX chassis will cost about $3000 to $4000 to put it on the trail reliably and that is if it doesn't need a rebuild.
Its not that bad when you think about avoiding the cost of something new. The big thing is just trying to get one that doesn't need a rebuilt engine. But even if it does I done the rebuild in the past and it was typically around 1000 (precovid part prices). I enjoy the zx platform and only ride a handful of times a year. To me its worth it and easy to work on.
@@josephnowak Agreed, that is why I buy ZX chassis too. Easy to ride, easy to work on, easy to store. No taking off multiple pannels. You just open the hood and everything is accessible right there. The parts are readily available too if you don't mind Ebay or Facebook Marketplace.
Years ago i used to go to automotion weekend. Theres too much foolery and the town seems to not want the people there so i dont go anymore. Thanks for watching!
I was just having a conversation with a buddy who worked at airaid about a cotton vs paper. I have a KN filter and lid on a 408 sprintcar engine. Filters off perfect tune on the carburetor put the Filter on runs like shit. Great video, my buddy was correct after watching your video
That's a really old sled, it's good that you could do your own work, because labor is really expensive and even more for labor that you can trust. I'll bet it gets up and goes now
Stub stack seem to be a win but they're $75. I had a mr. gasket air filter spacer kit ($15 now) and one of the pieces I used as a stub stack. Just had to sand a little and tape to the base.
Saw these same results on air filter "filter" lids -- They are a performance loss every time The thinking was it causes to much turbulence - I think it was David Vizard that did the test t
That's not all that needs to be done. It needs bigger needle and seats and air bleed change, plus take the screw in jet extensions out and change to the ones from holley that fit over the outside of the jet, the screw in ones have too small a hole and restrict the jet flow for e85.
I should have mentioned the needle change. Its in the quickfuel instructions. I bought stainless needles and put them in the chrome bowls. Chrome bowls arnt necessary but they are more resistant to corrosion. The jet extensions are drilled but maybe the slip fit version would do better? The airbleed setup is really close to what it was. I did play around with it a little because i had airbleeds to try. Thanks for commenting!
Here is a dyno test that had a tapered back plate making less power than a right angle back plate. why? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z2y2-MQrGO8.htmlsi=029nsgVzYt0zsgqI
I dont have a direct answer but mainly thoughts on how much further this shouldbhave gone. This shows how finicky air flow can be but it also leaves dyno related questions unanswered. They had wideband oxygen sensor data - if you look at the setup its there. It would of been nice to see that data or at least touch base on if it was the same or different, if there was one in each bank even better. A test without the element installed would of been nice too - it would eliminate the question about the step in the base. With carbs its not just the air but also the fuel and what the air flow does for pull on the fuel circuit. There is also fuel and air distribution that is a unique ingrediant with a vtwin - one cylinder will pull hard than the other due to the uneven crank angle between firing cycles which makes the jetting a compromise. Overall i enjoyed the video.
That's one high quality engine combo! This is the kind of information I like seeing in these types of videos. Knowing what to look for when buying an assembled engine can pay off.
Thank-you Joseph and New Guy for putting this out there. I will be running this all through my noodle brain. I may have to build a modified version to swap with the one I am running just to see what there is to see. One thing I will say.....Ahem.....with tricks like this, is it wise to run 2 carbs when one flows so much? 😱😱😁😆🤣🤣😛🤪😜
This was only the beginning lol This is step 1 of a multi level modification experiment! And I am shocked this little bit did so much, I am extremely excited to see what the next phase will do! 😃
