For the novice DYI'er (from another novice) installing this as a mobil home shower upgrade, here a couple of things that I ran into that might be helpful: 1. Mobile and maufactured home are not alway level or square. Suggest making sure that the shower pan is level (for proper drainage) and just let the walls fall where they may. 2. Keep a flashlight close when setting the end walls so that you can see the joining tabs and slots. 3. More than likely, your mobile will have internal wall 1x4 studs (instead of 2x4s) and may need need to be doubled. 4. Make sure of what's behind any paneling that you may have to cut away. (I cut into a PolyB water line and couldn't find a proper repair fitting locally - did find and got from an online supplier) 5. If adding safety bars, you may need to add wood spacers between the back side surface of your panels - some walls are flat and don't need spacers - Sterling walls are offset and need them. 6. Finally - Set end panels before applying caulk to the front corners as shown in most (Sterling model) videos - can be messy if you have to remove panels before securing to wall. (Note - they can be swung out enough to apply the caulk after locking the panels in.) Also helps to mask off the area before applying caulk Hope this help anyone undertaking this job for the first time. (s) An Old Rookie p.s. You might want to fill the seams where the wall panels meets with DAP or some such sealer.
ah! this is exactly what i was looking for. i had done the tub already but when i opened the walls i noticed the flange holes weren’t pre-drilled and got scared. 😳 so thanks for the confidence and extra trip to trim up the edges!!!
Thanks for the video. Quick question, the ends of the pvc trap are different. One end has a sharper bend than the other. Which end of the trap do you put the sandpipe? Thanks for your time
THIS HELPED ME SO MUCH - Loved how you took your time, showed all the steps, and went 1 by 1. Thank you for posting this. Id love to see more A to Z videos like this, maybe for installation of faucets etc. i learned alot
Great video! I have a shower very similar to this and I was thinking of sealing all the inner gaps because I feel like some water is getting trapped and fully draining to the bottom of the shower. Would this be a bad idea? 15:24
Can a Sterling shower kit be installed in an alcove where I've already installed green drywall over the studs on the back wall and the side that has no plumbing embedded?
The watco demonstrated here does not give you the option of 1. Using a hair catch cover or 2. Having a male to female threaded overflow drain with gasket and silicone. Seems like two very important things to me that are not available with this tub waste kit.
Great video. I've installed these units and they go in pretty easily. I would just add a word of advice when tightening the lock ring using the flat tool with the screw driver. I usually put a rag in the drain, so I don't accidentally drop that tool or the screw driver in the drain while tightening. I learned this by trial and error many years ago. Still a great video. Thanks for sharing.
I'm installing another Sterling unit. I had a plumber install the pan, but he screwed the pan's flange to the stud and did not use the little clips supplied. Should I remove these, silicon the holes he made in the flange and install the clips? Or does it even matter? Thank you for the video. Perfect description.
Great video! I just bought one of the 60x30 Sterling shower units to replace an old fiberglass tub/shower unit. I'm replacing the combo tub/shower valve with a new Moen valve and moving it higher up. Was trying to view in your video as to whether the front of the brass valve body should be flush with the plastic wall, a little bit protruding thru the wall, or slightly behind the plastic wall?
This was an excellent video for folks who are doing it themselves. I'm retired now but did a whole lot of this work once upon a time. I can't say I'm a fan of silicone, though! I relied on the rubber gaskets and seals. To be fair, many seals are of a lower quality today. I always greased all threaded fittings and bolts/machine screws, so that many years later the next guy could easily disassemble my work. Anyways, excellent how-to vid!
Best tutorial I've seen of a shower insert install - thank you for the excellent shots & attention to detail. Will be going through this at my place in the near future.
To clean up the silicone you can use rubbing alcohol on a lint less cloth for easy clean up. I also run a bead of silicone on the bottom of the drain around the threads to keep the nut from backing off. Good video.
I was chasing a leak because of 2 of those thin, plastic caps... I prefer the regular oatey type, but thought I'd run a quick test with those... They now have rubber caps over them as well.
What if the previous owner forgot to silicone that small spot where you have that 4 inch by 1 inch "L" shape between the pan and bottom of side walls? Is there a way to get silicone in there with the walls already attached?
Now show how to install one by yourself on a tub that's already been in for 20 years and there is a wall there like there would normally be. It's easy to install when there is no wall and you can just reach over the tub and hold everything with one hand and screw in the drain with other hand. No one ever does a video in real life situation as to where the tub has been in the home for 20 or 30 years and they have to replace the entire drain and overflow, trap by themselves.
Well, we do that quite frequently in real life applications but most homeowners don't even know what the waste and overflow looks like behind their tub and in the walls...so that was the purpose of this video to give homeowners a better understanding of how things work.
Dude he literally said it multiple times that hes making it look easy for demonstration purposes. You know how it all works and is needed to replace it so look at your set up and figure out how to do it. Its really not that hard if you can cut a whole behing the wall where the plumbing is.
There is a difference yes, ABS (the black plastic) seems to expand and contract due to temperatures much more than PVC does and it uses a different glue to create the joints.. We aren't very big fans of it. ABS is also typically far more expensive than pvc ever since covid. Here in Omaha you are not allowed to mingle those pipes together for it to be to code. It either has to be all pvc or all ABS with some exceptions. Hope this answered your question!
