I’m hoping your active as I truly need some help My mechanical is only allowing 11 degrees I’ve tried lighter springs and all it did was get my total timing in earlier Is it necessary to grind the center plate or do you think my issue is the slots the bushing go into ? I thought about opening them up with a file but I don’t know if maybe under 3000 rpm if the weight and center plate are at as far as they will go ? I can manually turn the mechanism to full lock and watch it spring back Sorry I’m new to this so just trying to have it all understood before I make a change
Thanks for the info! Ive got a '67 Deville thats been sitting for a bit that I need to diagnose a no-start issue and this'll get me started... pun intended.
Once again another amazing video. We need more like you out there. Very informative and well explained! What brand/model of distributor machine is that??
Thanks for pointing out the differences. It’s true for virtually everything from China. I just ordered an OEM carburetor for my chainsaw because a knockoff just won’t run right.
What distributor does come with a good curve built in? Myself, I've always ran around 22-24 degrees of initial with a total of 34-36 all in around 3k rpm depending on what the engine liked. What do you charge to curve one?
It seems a video might be in order: one that shows how ignition timing is related to the hp and torque curves could demonstrate how critical s Distributor set up is to performance. Understanding if you are setting up for torque or power can guide you in choosing where you have what advance, and how much.
Your numbers at the end of the video are exactly what i'm getting in my chevy. I remove one spring and leave it out, set base to 4btdc and rev it up to 5k and get 32-34btdc. thanks
Hey great video, I’m a newbie trying to learn how things work while fighting a project. I understand how have this done before you try to put your new build one the road is very beneficial. (With the caveat that may be more tuning is needed once on the road) but I appreciate the info and you gained a subscriber. Thank you sir
Thank you for the comment. I didn’t realize it the resolution was low / picture is tiny. I went t back and saw that this has also occurred in some of my other videos. I’ll try to figure out why and fix that in the future.
@@ringgap Oh, look at you with the trash take. My mom is in the ground on top of a mountain in KY. . I've always wanted to meet one of you exceptionally brave cell phone warriors,... Alone... in a dark alley... With no cell reception...
Client Ray here. Awesome video. The bag of tricks is a Mr Gasket re-curve kit I included so you have some parts to work with, was not aware that the distributor rotor slots would not accommodate the bushings. Welding the slots is the only way to limit the range of the curve. thanks for the quick turn around and I'll let you know how everything goes when I get it installed in the new engine.
Watching that distributor spin at 6000 rpms had me anticipating disaster. Have you ever had the counterweights come off the posts while being tested? Just my safety background, I would have made a lexan shield that folds down covering the top of the distributor for my piece of mind.
If you would have started off on an Excel advance curve kit it would have all the bushings in the springs and everything cartoon that HEI distributor perfect.
I'll say that the advance weights available in the aftermarket are poor design, and I'd believe they're designed for the least common denominator not to ping. I'm surprised someone hasn't started repopping these with how available CNC water jetting is.
Great Video, I was wondering at 13:12 of the video you indicated that the advance was 16 degrees at 2800, But when i look at the scale, it looks like 8 degrees. Earlier in the video you said that each big line was 10 degrees, but the scale would indicate 5 degrees. Why is this different. Thank you
Excellent video mate. However, I was hoping you would follow up the video on the effects of quicker advance by replacing the little springs to lighter ones on points distributors.
Nice job. I had my carburetor rebuilt by a pro and he didn’t mess with the choke one bit. I ended up setting it all myself. I enjoyed this, and I’m also enjoying your distributor videos. Thanks!
This is the first time I have actually seen a distributor machine in use, and it shows me I have no idea what my advance curve is for my GM crate basic 350 engine. I thought I had a good understanding of the weights and the FOOTBALL.....wrong again. After all these years, I must enroll on HEI 101 school again. Any suggestions?
Have you locked the distributor and used a programmable MSD box to make a timing curve? You can even connect a map sensor and make it work like a vacuum advance too.
Could your football be on backwards ? According to the MrGasket HEI Advance Curve kit #929 the diagram indicates yours is on backwards for a clockwise rotation distributor. flipping that football changes the geometry greatly and will make weights come in to hug football with any springs chosen and give zero advance at idle. It did for me.
On this video he has the football on backwards , that's why he if forced to modify the profile. It's easy to get in on backwards and develop timing issues.@@Roger-eh7ez
It's been my experience that a lot of the problem lays with the vacuum advance rod hanging up on the base of the distributor housing and causing intermittent drivability problems or a bad diaphragm that won't hold vacuum at all. I also like to use an adjustable vacuum advance and vacuum tester when recurving an HEI distributor. And there are a lot of little plastic bits inside that wear out and excessive pin wear with a performance recurved HEI it wakes up your engine