I learned that recurving the distributor will improve your 1/4 mile time by at least 1 second or more. As slow as that timing was coming in on that GTO he'll improve 1/4 mile time by at least 2 seconds. What you are doing is a lost art. THANK YOU
I’m hoping your active as I truly need some help My mechanical is only allowing 11 degrees I’ve tried lighter springs and all it did was get my total timing in earlier Is it necessary to grind the center plate or do you think my issue is the slots the bushing go into ? I thought about opening them up with a file but I don’t know if maybe under 3000 rpm if the weight and center plate are at as far as they will go ? I can manually turn the mechanism to full lock and watch it spring back Sorry I’m new to this so just trying to have it all understood before I make a change
Have you locked the distributor and used a programmable MSD box to make a timing curve? You can even connect a map sensor and make it work like a vacuum advance too.
Subbed.I just rebuilt our '67 289 Mustang.Still running the single point distributor,it checks out as good.New vacuum can adjusted 3 and a half turns from bottom as per spec.Mild can with a .30 overbore and Edelbrock AVS 650 on a matching dual plane intake out of the box.Tri Y headers that were day 2 mode back in the day.Runs great with 12 degrees advance on the crank and timing set at 10 degrees.Any advice?
Hi Samuel. Im sorry, I don’t understand your question. Are you having any drivability issues? I just want to confirm that we are talking in crank degrees; you have 12 initial. How much mechanical do you have and how much additional is your vacuum can pulling in? Is your vacuum hooked to ported or manifold? How many inches of Mercury are you pulling at idle? What is your idle speed? Thank you
@@gasandspark One thing I should mention is it started life as a 2 barrel.Also I broke it in an a stock heat range plug,NGK brand.Wanted Motorcraft but the local parts store had none in stock.Used a 180 degree thermostat due to it going to Arizona with my little brother for a time.
@@gasandspark Just wanting to keep the point type for spite really.Everybody uses electronics,I know the benefits but it's just a daily driver,love the analog stuff.
@@samuelgoodman2825; If you are happy with the way the car is running, then I think you are good. I don't really have a strong opinion on points vs electronic conversion. I run points in my cars unless I am using the vehicle as a test bed to test something. This is why I have an electronic conversion in my Corvette; it is a test bed. Points are almost fool proof, plus on a Ford they are easy to access and deal with. I have customers who are in their 70's and 80's and don't want to deal with leaning over the fender and dealing with points at the back of a GM engine. I totally get why they want electronic. The key to remember is that the triggering device (electronic or points) have zero impact on curve and curve is where the performance gains are at. I have found that most street-driven cars will tolerate about 16* of initial advance. To accomplish this and not have detonation when under load, the mechanical advance needs to be shortened to about 20*. I then limit the amount of timing that the vacuum can pulls in to 10-12*. ( I am referring to crank degrees for all of these). Running ported of manifold vacuum is dependent on the car. My corvette runs like a scaled cat on manifold vacuum. I just tuned a 82 jeep (258 in line 6) as well as a '66 Ford pickup (352 v-8) and found that they both responded better to ported vacuum.
