Simple cycling related content. Product reviews and opinions mostly. I'll throw in the occasional comparison video for fun. US based racing content, crits, road racing, and gravel racing. Road and gravel cycling videos Some Zwift rides and racing. I'll try to provide links to the products I use and review and will earn a small commission if you choose to purchase. Any purchase helps support the channel.
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When these Tubolito's came on the market a few years ago I bought a pair to ride MTB on the Canary islands and it costed me a small fortune. So on the island I installed the Tubo's (and i know what I'm doing. First ride: gravel, rocks modest climb and decent. WITHIN 20 minutes the back Tubolito gave up. No punctures but just torned. And that for 40 euro's Per Tubo. It was a complete disaster. Even thin ultralight butyl tubes lasted on the same trails for more than two days 'till they completely exploded. Shure I got my money back for the pair after complaining about the lies in the advertisement. (2,5 times stronger than butyl) . Note: At that time Schwalbe had taken their version of these type of tube of the market and for a reason. Pffff this was just a complete disaster. Now after a few years the Chinese versions are cheap and I will try those and see if they will hold but Tubolito's I say it was just a scam at that time. (to early on the market ? )
Thanks for the feedback from your experience. I will say that I still have not had any issues with reliability on my set (which I got a few years ago, as evidenced by the publish date of this video). I haven't purchased any others, outside of a pirelli smartube which I keep for a spare. I've heard good things about the chinese versions, but with running tubeless pretty much exclusively, I don't have a wide range of experience of various brands.
Top up as needed. I’d check it more often than that just to get an idea of how often it’s needed. Climate has a big effect on the longevity of sealant.
Nope. Just add some and go. It doesn’t specify to do this, but I’ve added a tiny bit of water when topping up just to add back the moisture lost over time. It’s water soluble so adding it back in doesn’t hurt anything.
It is actually a huge difference in comfort between each of the pressures. Even though the highest pressure was technically the fastest by my measure, I would never run that high of pressure for anything longer than maybe an hour. It was that bad. Whereas at the lowest pressure it super comfortable. I would just worry about pinch flats or rim strikes at that low of pressure. It’s really a balance everyone has to experiment to find.
I am running tubeless. I know lower is possible, but with the 40mm I’m a little hesitant about striking my nice zipp wheels on a rock. With 45mm+ I’d probably try a little lower
I'm curious if that rival axs will take a 46 or 48t cassette.? . Have you experimented with either of these sizes? I live in Colorado tough climbs to say the least at altitude. ideally, i;d like to set up a sram wireless system with a 40t front and 48t rear . 12 speed Garbaruk cassette.. any suggestions?
I haven’t done any experimenting. I know it’s only “officially” rated for 44T but there was a TON of B-gap adjustment left. I really doubt you’d have any issue with 46T. Maybe 48T, but I’d worry about shift quality at that point.
Ummm, thanks? It seemed to go on pretty easily for me, compared to some more difficult combos. I recently moved these tires to my Zipp 303S wheels and they installed super easy as well.
They both have pros and cons. I like the ride feel of the challenge much better. I think speed is probably a wash between the two although drum tests says the RS is faster. Install on the challenge is a nightmare. And the challenge had much worse durability. The RS held up a lot better. If you watched my unbound 2022 video you can see the slices in my tires which forced me to DNF. Admittedly, they were great until Unbound.
@@JMCyclingVideos thx for reply. According to BRR, puncture score on tread for Getaway is actually higher than RS (52 VS 33), sidewall is about the same. I'm between these two tires and couldn't make final decision. RS is slightly faster (1+ watt saving per tire according to BRR), weight about the same, but Getaway is not easy for installation, I watched some videos how to ,make installation earlier, but honestly "easier way" (with some tricks) still not that easy.
I have a maxed out aero seatpost and I appreciate the measurement of the top of the saddle/rail distance. It is critical for me and biketiresdirect could not give me the measurement nor were they able to measure it. I won't be buying from them. Thank you
Glad it helped you! It’s a small but important measurement, in my opinion. And eye opening to see such a big difference between two versions of the same saddle. That’s definitely enough to throw off seatpost adjustments.
@@JMCyclingVideos I got the same sort of response from Selle Italia as I did from bikesdirect. I am going to try a knockoff now as this really is annoying. Thanks for your comment and keep up the good videos
Great review - Looks great, is it worth using theese tires with tubes. Im a new rider looking for some speed, but aint ready to go full on tubeless yet :D
I think that’s absolutely a good idea. If you run a tube that’s low rolling resistance such as latex or TPU you’re going to be in the same ballpark. Just plan to run slightly higher tire pressures to prevent pinch flats. And if you decide to go tubeless later, you’re ready.
I actually level my even with the front and back. I’ve played around with it a bit and for me, that works best. I’d recommend trying it both ways to see what’s best for you.
Excellent comment and something that is often overlooked. Yes, this saddle is grippy and adjustments require a lift off the saddle. To me, that's a positive because I like to be held in when I'm where I want to be, but to some, it may be uncomfortable.
I own them but I will be less enthusiast: 3 punctures in 1.000kms. And I reinflate them once a week. 3.2 bars for 35c. I don't understand why. Sealant made the job 2 times, but not the 3rd.
Thanks for sharing your experience. It’s always good when others share their experience in the comments. I did, later, have one single puncture in my front tire. But I used a plug and it’s been solid since.
Well, a few months ago, I noticed when I start a ride, I'm in the blue zone and my muscles are not ready. My body temperature is a bit on the cold side. After say 2 kilometers I am ready though. There could also be some dust from the night before or other stuff, which after say 2 or 4 kilometers blows away. The solution for all this stuff is basically say, the first ride is a throw away round and after the last one you should do the first original setup again. Also be sure you are in same condition between each ride. So add say a one minute pause to get it more even. Also by increasing the distance makes the influence of inaccuracies diminishes. Up to 10 kilometers the influence of something weird is less.
Thanks for the input. I definitely have some ideas for changing up the testing protocol, especially for tests like this that are relatively easy to make changes quickly in between tests.
Hi there, I’m just doing the same upgrade because of a constantly slipping saddle clamp , do you need to put carbon paste on the seatpost also where the clamp for the saddle attaches ? I can’t find instructions anywhere 🤷🏼♂️
Still trying to figure out if I should go for 35c or 40c. Reason is prepping for a short distance triathlon and I want more speed, however still want to be flexible afterwards. Usually mostly doing road and light gravel I guess, but wouldn’t want to say no to to some terrains when riding. What would you say? Does that make a big difference in speed or comfort? I’ve already checked the rolling resistance but can’t really get a feel for those numbers.
If you’re going mostly road, definitely 35c. Rolling resistance and aerodynamics will be better. You’ll have to be more cautious off road but 35’s would still tackle all but the chunkiest of gravel. Just my opinion of course.
Some people like to know how difficult they are to install, how much they weigh (compared to manufacturers claims) and how they measure out once installed. For example, buying a 34mm tire hoping it installs out to 34mm but being disappointed that it only sizes up to 32mm, like I demonstrated here.
Ah that makes sense. I haven’t had much of an issue with fogging in any of my sunglasses, these included. I’ve worn them during some warm humid morning rides and no issues 👍.
I had v1 and then v2... there good for a 1 year and then start to fall apart...so far I almost changed all parts on them... but now its just getting too much... I am 90kg+ and around 10k/year so that plays a role a guess.... now they even stop distribution so one cannot find spared.. I learnt the lesson, never again buying no name wheels its not worth the pain and time.
Sorry they didn’t work out well for you. I’m much smaller at around 65-70kg most of the time so I don’t strain my wheels that much. Plus I don’t do a lot of long descents so I don’t put as much break wear on them.
@@JMCyclingVideos yeah, my first pair got deformed the breaking surface, on the second pair the rear hub is somehow destroyed, tried 4 different mechanics (it pulls the chain of freewheeling).. in addition on each of them i changed many small parts, spokes, bearing mutliple times... my experience with bikes and components: if a price is too good to be true it's probably not good ;).
Great to try these tires because it's one of my choices for the future. I'm riding the Corsa Pro 32mm today and I'm very happy with it: it rolls really fast with this exceptional flexibility provided by the cotton carcass. I am interested in your feedback regarding rolling resistance compared to the Corsa Pro. (This is what made me choose the Corsa Pro and not the Controle after noting a significantly higher RR on the Rolling Resistance site even if I keep in mind that this is the result of a test on a roller and that the puncture resistance was not much better) THANKS !
Coming from the Corsa Pro 26’s (see my past videos on those if you haven’t) honestly I can’t feel much difference in speed. Comfort is on another level though. I’ll have an initial review on these soon.
I plan to make a 600 mile bikepacking tour. Would you recommend the RS 40mm tire for that ? At the moment i have the schwalbe g-one Bite 45mm installed on my Canyon Grizl. The bite is perfect on off road but maybe for longer distances the RS would be better
That’s tough to say. I’m not sure what the terrain you’re going to be on looks like. If you’re getting into mud or some really chunky gravel, maybe something with some more tread. If it’s road/light gravel and only a few smaller sections of chunky stuff, then the RS should work fine.
Some people say that. I didn’t experience that though. May be because I didn’t have the ultra thin ones for disc brakes. Maybe that’s different? I can’t say for sure.
@@JMCyclingVideos quality. We always made fun of zipps. Zipp right back to buy better ones we said. It's Chinese carbon fiber and the quality just isn't there. Good starter set. I ride MTB. I've tried enve race face...all of them. I ride wtb rings with hope hubs now.
Jeah well, I also have a Basso Palta. Never again. It is the Palta 2022 with a Sigma stem. Wanted to change the Stem this year. Of corse they changed the Sigma stem design just a littble bit to not fit on an "older" Palta and nowhere is this mentioned. Never will I buy a bike again with this proprietary things.
I understand your frustration. Many bikes these days are going to proprietary parts, like seat posts, stems, and handlebars. Since my fit is dialed in, I’m good, but any adjustments would be difficult and expensive with everything integrated.
Good question! No, these tires are not direction. That's in contrast to the Vittoria Corsa Pro Control tires which will be featured on the channel soon and ARE directional. Subscribe if you haven't already to be notified when that video comes out.
Regarding the bike tool, the larger allen head that seemed ‘unusable’ as it was on same piece as another.. its a kimd of socket that comes off, then you move it to the longer smaller allen driver. Regarding the ‘arrangement’ of items, just unscrew that side and u can organize any way you want.
that's the most road looking gravel bike I've seen. It doesn't look like it could take a 45 tire, it looks fast fast fast. I haven't watched the weight bit yet, but I'm going to guess it comes in at 18ish pounds (8.16kg)...off by a pound
@@JMCyclingVideos what do you consider lightweight? I’m building up a gravel bike right now and would be thrilled if it came in under 20 pounds. I know I could save some serious weight if I wasn’t hell bent on having a dropper post, but the heart wants what the heart wants…
I have some weight weenie tendencies so I’d be thrilled with under 8kg. Unless I got some super light wheels/tires and maybe a lightweight integrated cockpit I don’t think it’s in the cards for this build. But I’m trying to fight the urge because I know it doesn’t make near as much difference as people once thought.
“Weight is just a number in the scale” - that is what the more rational voice in my head keeps telling me 😅 For the records, my Ti road/gravel 2x bike is also 8.5kg with road tires, so maybe you will find a way to get yours sub-8 😊
I recently replaced my Garmin road pedals for the Look KEE Blade ceramic pedals. Both use the same cleat. I’ve had a bear of a time I clipping from the Look pedals and that’s with the medium tension Carbonetti blade! I’ve just installed the lowest tension blade and if I’m still fighting to unclip, these pedals are out of here!
@@JMCyclingVideos certainly Basso has copied the frame characteristics of the big 5 bike companies.. frame looks like a canyon. Credit for keeping production in Italy. Basso has always been quality company…
I’m 100% sure there’s a lot of carry over on frame characteristics from all of the companies. But each have their own unique features (in most cases at least). I just like to be different and we don’t see too many Basso’s around my area.
Glad you’re enjoying yours! Mine has so far been great on fast road rides and gravel rides. I’ll be doing more videos featuring the Palta so subscribe if you haven’t yet!
The head of the zip tie would bother me sticking up like that. I wonder if it would be better to carve a little place in the liner to accomodate the head of the zip tie. Thoughts?
I agree. I have checked in on them since the initial install and the head has recessed a bit into the liner just over time. I think it’s ok to carve a spot through to seat the head of the zip tie. Shouldn’t have any impact on the structure of the foam liner.
Hi! At what pressure did you use your wtb riddlers? I am on the verge of buying new tires, and looks like I'm about to buy these challenge Getaway pro ones. But from what I heard here, they require very low pressure. And when i rode wtb riddlers at 75 psi, the speed was just incredible! So a doubt creeped into my soul. Maybe I should better stick to riddlers. Plus, they are way easier to mount.
My riddlers weren’t tubeless compatible so I ran them at around 55psi with tubes. When I run any gravel tires tubeless, it’s usually in the 30-35psi range. Don’t fear going low on pressure. I did a video recently about tire pressures and there wasn’t a whole lot of difference other than comfort. Check it out if you’re interested.
@@JMCyclingVideos thanks for the reply. I've just watched your video about the experiment with three rides with different pressure values. Quite an interesting video, but the thing is that I run my riddlers at a way higher pressure. I inflate them to 75 psi. And in this case they really make a great difference on asphalt. Also, I found out that the manufacturer declares that their pressure must be 55 psi maximum, but the tire itself has it written on its sidewall: "maximum pressure 75 psi". So, long story short, I feel like the formula in my case could be: tubed wtb riddlers. With high pressure for commuting, and with lower one - when riding off-road. Thus, I gain benefits of easy mounting in case of punctures. And of enormous speed when riding on the road. I just can't believe that there is any tubeless tire that can be as fast as a tubed wtb riddler at 75 psi. If there's anyone who can prove me wrong - please do so.
Whatever works best for you is the what you should do. Higher pressure will for sure be faster on smooth payment. Give the Zipp or Silca tire pressure calculator and see what they recommend then adjust from there.
@@JMCyclingVideos well alrright, that doesn't change the fact that 1000-1500 miles is nothing and shouldn't be called "long term" especially when you run any modern tyre, they should last minimum 2x/3x as much without any worries.
I understand your mindset but there are also a lot of people out there who still run certain wheels and tires for race only. And for those, 1500 miles is more than they’ll see on a set
Different people different need and miles per month 😂 I commute on them someone race on them. 1k my monthly number😂 Thanks for video 👍🏻 very informative
A little more than 50% of retail. I went with 2x because it’s going to be more versatile for road and gravel. I run a 48x35 up front and a 10-33 on road and 10-36 on gravel. If you watch my 2024 3T Exploro bike update, I go more into the details there, which is why I didn’t do a long detailed video this time on the same build with a different frame.
Wow glad you were able to find this color way. I think it’s pretty rare. Rim brake or disc? As for the cages, they’re Blackburn Camber in matte black and orange. I’m honestly not sure where to find them.
@JMCyclingVideos same colour as yours. I'm buying it used for 1 grand, but no wheels and no groupset to save some money, since I already own a dura ace r9000. Do you recommend this frame? Please tell me as much as you can about it
I love my Wilier. I’m not using it currently because I’m using my gravel bike currently for everything, but the Wilier is a rapid race bike. Lightweight for being an aero bike and stiff. I used mine only with electronic shifting though so I can’t comment on cable routing for mechanical shifting.
I would typically run what the Zipp tire pressure calculator said, although sometimes I’d go on the higher side of it due to the expectation that higher pressure were faster. Now I’ll definitely be running on the lower side due to comfort.
Hello ! I am from Argentina ! And I recently bought my first gravel bike, I have a lot of experience racing track bikes, and I wanted to get into this modality. At the moment I love it! And I congratulate you for your video!!! And I thank you for the time and work! My conclusion is that what the page recommends is just the necessary measure to make it comfortable and fast.
Thanks for watching! Videos like this do take a lot of time and work but I enjoy doing it and hope they help others. I think prioritizing comfort is best for longer duration gravel rides and races.
@@JMCyclingVideos sorry. Actually, I crashed my bike. And since long, trying to find the frame for this bike. I actually don’t need a group set or wheels. Just the basic frame. Can we have some arrangement done…
I do appreciate the interest but I’m just not interested in selling this bike. I’ve had too many memories with it and it has some sentimental value to me. I’m sure with a little time and effort you’ll be able to find this frameset for sale somewhere else.
@@JMCyclingVideos God bless you dear. U spoke your heart out. Yup, bikes are like this… thanks for the reply. Stay safe. Happy cranking… Will ask NO more…
I would not use those cheap chromatic glasses for a simple reason. When you use sunglasses your iris will open more to get more light and by doing so, it will let more U.V. rays coming to your retina leading you to lose your eyesight faster than someone using real, tested, guaranteed, safe sunglasses from a well known brand.
Some days ego i have installed Vittoria Rubino Pro iv 700*28, on 18.5mm rims, and tire width was 28,5mm inflat to 6 bar, and after 30km ride the tires width became 29.3mm on 5 bar of pressure. Very nice... But it to big for my bike😢
That is quite a bit larger on only 18.5mm rims. I would've expected those to end up closer to 28mm on that rim width. Sorry that's a bit too big for your bike.
