This channel will follow me (and others I can pull in with me) on some things I really enjoy in life. I love spending most of my time outside any chance I can. I plan on sharing some of my adventures and the preparations for those adventures such as, camping, off roading, road trips, and fabrication to support some of those activities. My current off road vehicle is a 1988 YJ Jeep Wrangler. It has the original 70k mile carbureted 4.2L engine. You’ll follow me through blood, sweat, and tears as keep breaking and fixing it. I’ll be applying many of the same techniques seen on other videos with a little twist with what I have in my arsenal of tools. Hopefully it might inspire others to get out there and enjoy the outdoors with family and friends.
You should absolutely be spraying carb cleaner through all of the passages and jets. None of the stuff you did in this video will fix the issue you described.
The primer was Rustoleum primer from Lowes. The paint was the Rustoleum truck bed liner. It’s really not a typically thought of paint, but a 2 part epoxy paint. It has a bag with two compartments. You press down and burst the separation wall so the two can mix. It has like a 4 hour working time. It has proven to be very durable! Thanks for the question. I hope this helps!
I thought about that and I didn’t want the tires sticking out for trees to catch on. I drag this through pretty thick brush and have racks on all the edges to prevent saplings and trees from catching and pushing off. Good point though!
FIRST rule of welding cast iron (particularly dirty shit like exhaust elements) - NEVER use a hard-stone grinder of any type. It drags carbon out into the weld area. Use a file, die grinder, or a Dremel (for little jobs) with a burr cutter, but never a stone of any kind. You did mention flux core but not the actual type of wire. This type of repair requires a nickel type filler. Your incorrect procedure is the reason why you have porosity or inclusions or whatever went wrong.
Thanks for the comment. Absolutely, the kit came with the smaller tires that can be used. I used wide tires for the trail. The thinner tires would work depending on the application.
Really dont understand why they risk Mag welding cast irons in these situations, far better and safer to flame braze weld or even Mig braze weld the part.
Love the Black wood & the "guards" on each wheel's front & back! From stock though...Holy hell...I understand it's just a few hundred dollar Wang Ching Chong ordeal but those industrious little fellows must've finished this project while all the engineers were out to lunch. Designed off of Photocopies described over the phone. lol
Nice trailer. Do you know how wide it was outside of tire to outside of tire with the factory tires? I am looking for a trailer to pull behind my ATV in and out of the woods to get firewood. All the "ATV" specific trailers like polar brand etc are super expensive. Thought about this one but it may be to wide for alot of my ATV trails.
I just looked back at the base trailer and it stated 52-1/4”. I would guess that is outside fender to outside fender. If you didn’t install the fenders you could shave off another 2-3” to get tire to tire dimensions.
@@outdoortypelifestyle9489 Hey one more question if you don't mind. This trailer, axle and all seem heavier built that most "ATV" specific trailers, do you think it would do ok over bumpy ground in the woods hauling firewood out with an ATV?
@matticus6339 I use mine for that quite often. Since the trailer is rated for like 1,200# the suspension is pretty stiff. I pulled out a leaf in springs since a full load on my trailer is probably only around 250# and I wanted it to absorb some of the bumps not bounce. I have a Kawasaki Teryx that I use to drag it all over the mountain and it does well.
Been watching your videos for a while and i'm in the middle of putting new intake and exhaust gaskets on. Mine also has the "donut" flange style for the pipe connection and I'm having problems sourcing this style gasket. Where did you get yours from?
It should be pretty straightforward to get registered and tagged. When you buy the kit I used as the base of this project, it had a title in the box. I’m only running it on logging trails and back dirt roads, so I don’t have a need to tag it.
Also those ones on the end are supposed to be studs (3/8-16 block side, -24 manifold side) and they use the thick cone washers (discontinued) as you see on the centers. Torque spec is 23 lb. ft. iirc starting center and rotating out.
Fwiw anyone rewatching this, the two discarded gaskets would apply if he changed them out on the heater. With all the expansion and contraction, if you're doing the others, I'd strongly suggest it. You can also use a nylon wheel to clean the surfaces without removing any metal 😊
Really enjoyed the video, have the same Teryx as well. Where does the ground from the buss end up? Seemed to not capture that piece. The hot wire to the buss is secured with the tap, but not sure what I need to do with the ground. Thanks!
I ran a lead over to the closest chassis ground point. You could also run a dedicated ground to the battery, but these are all low current, so chassis is fine.
It's almost impossible to get a new or replacement manifold, so I really need it welded. Your video is valuable to give me some pointers, thank you. There are quite a few slightly different ways people attempt this, so I appreciate you sharing how you did it.
Just a comment on your explanation of left hand and magnet travel direction etc. There is a small brake shoe and a large brake shoe, the large shoe should always be a the rear, as it does all the breaking, your description seemed to be opposite to this standard design feature of all most all drum brake functionality.
That is an interesting point. I matched what I removed, so I might have just propagated an earlier error. It doesn’t break like my camper and that might explain that. Thanks for the post.
Does anyone know if this works with any old flux core? I thought i read that some flux core you can't reweld over, also thought you needed a special kind of rod such as 90% nickel or something for cast iron? Thanks
Nice videos. I'm really enjoy. Question, can you make a video about the extra seat or bench that you installed in the back. I'm planing to buy a Kawasaki teryx. Thank
I’m glad to hear you are enjoying the videos. Yeah, that isn’t a bad idea about the jump seat. It might take me a little bit, but I will probably make a video about that.
The only place would be to fabricate an eye on the bottom mounting point for the brush guard. That goes into the frame. I might do that at some point because it see the same issue.
If your winch were to fail, and you could only be winched out from someone else in the front, what anchor point would you connect the other person's winch hook to? My crappy winch burned out on me on the trail and they had no other option but to use my front, brush guard. It's hallow, so I'm thinking that's not a good long term solution. Thoughts?
Yeah, that brush guard is real thin. I have a tree saver strap that would do a better job to distribute the load. If you did it near the bottom that would help. If it want to ride up you could use the same strap and just choker it off around the base of the brush guard.
The Lincoln electric unit I had didn’t have “real” settings as a higher end model would have. So I don’t have the voltage, current, or feed rate info. The current setting was on the “B”, so lower current on the selector. Also, the feed rate was about 1/4 off full scale on that selector. That I usually adjust in the feedback I’m getting from the puddle and the wand. I hope this might help to some extent.
@@outdoortypelifestyle9489 rofl it actually does haha,belive it or not I know exactly what you are talking about haha,working with old machines isnt always the worst thing,sincerely appreciate the response thanks bro
I don’t remember the feed speed or voltage I was using. I’m in the middle of a move and everything is in storage or I’d go and get the swing of the machine I was using. If it was that small I would drill on the start and end of the crack to try to prevent it from spreading. I’d the grind out about 1/16” into the crack to give the weld something to bite into and do kind of like what you are talking. Small welds and making sure to clean the slag off between. That would be my approach.
That might have been an option but I couldn’t easily find replacement stud long enough for the hub. I was thinking to keep it easy to repair at a northern tool or Lowe’s if/when I break it on the trail. I’ve beat on it pretty good so far.
