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I have an esc that has boost timing control. Is it better to have the timing set on the motor or instead find the sweet point as you have done then wind the timing back say 10 degrees on the motor and then set the 10 degrees back in the boost function in the esc?
You could, but 1 run woundlt be enough to get one broke in , plus you have no data to compare that motor against another to know if the motor is good or not. I know some people that would go threw 10 motors just to fund 1 good race motor.
Busted out my old rc10… has a green machine 3 in it, I know the motor is still good but obviously my old batteries are shot, was wondering what new NiMh batteries you would recommend…not sure to get now and don’t want to burn it out. Thanks
Just buy a new hobbywing esc that runs lipo and a brushed motor like a 1080 I think is the model and be done with it Nimh is way to outdated to even buy. Lipo are cheap and so much better.
just have fun and dont get discouraged. i still run this setup for the most part , but i only run a 2 tracks so your track my differ from me. ive also learned the car likes to be level for ride height or 1 up in the rear. and dont be affraid to stay near kit setup. kit setup works wounders too. just change springs of course. Also i would suggest changing bodies to something with more aero nose heavy , example a shark body or if your on a larger track, a decked body works great for the faster speed allowing more air to hit the rear spoiler... yes it matters...
Would there be a cheat sheet or something for what gears to run on a specific drive line? I have an sc mod and I’m trying to dial it in at my local track.
no there is not , some people are able to figure it out based on driveline footages but the biggest issue is , theres too many variables. air temp, motor timing, esc timing, tread on tires (tires are different sizes) , motor turn. example. i may be running a hobbywing xr10pro with a 10.5 t motor and you could be running the same esc with a 8.5t motor. i would be a tooth or two higher then you because of rpm range. but you could take the same motor and esc and i could add settings like boost , then i could cut that down another tooth. thats why theres no magical number. The best advise i can give you is simply ask some racers in your class what gear there running, and start near that spot. run about 15 laps and check your motor temp, shoot for around 120 degrees. you can adjust gearing, can timing and boost on esc to achieve these parameters. i know this is a lengthy answer , because there is no great answer.
i like this build series, im new to oval but been around 1/10th buggies since before they were around. i have a couple questions? first, why do oval guys think removing the seal on the bearings is a good idea? i see it all over. if that fraction of a second makes a difference to you, wouldn't you just install ceramic bearings? (i heard u mention schelle so i know your not afraid to spend money) 2nd, why do you think no diff fluid is the answer? that's a tuning aid on carpet and high bite. i run up to 200k on some carpet tracks that are more traction than any oval i know of. im in the process of building a 6.3d for a sealed clay low bank short track, either 17.5 or 13.5. the club doesn't have many regulations but i want to conform to common practices. i run mostly 21.5 offroad carpet now. any setup sheets (castor, camber, bump steer, droop and shock limiters) would be appreciated. im also wondering what tires u landed on for asphalt (im one step away with sealed track), my rear motor buggy loves "take off" carped mini pins, but they barley make it through the day (fuzz bites with 4wd fronts, they last on carpet so im running out quick). ive only run a few days, but already getting into the local classes of mudboss and rear motor buggy, but want to build a real car that i can tune and progress with.. thanks in advanced for any replies.
Removing the seals and trimming them down is actually proven to be less resistance then ceramics. The issue is maintance, you gotta keep them clean so there happy. So if you don't want to do that, then don't, but running a spec motor class it will matter. As for tires no, I'd just run slicks in a hard compound , I've been racing rawspeed slicks on super soft compound but im on clay and loose dirt tracks. Best advise is go to your track and talk to people racing and see what they suggest. But rawspeed slicks will do you well once you find the compound that works for your track, track and air temps are a huge variable, so if its warm and super grippy I'd probably start with soft long wears.
@@ChrisPatrickRC is there any place that post setup sheets like off road? ball stud spacing, shock position, oil, ball or gear, axle heights,. the carpet setup sheets from manufactures are details right down to tires, timing and electronics,
@chuckstromain I havnt found one dedicated to oval , but I use the stock b6.x setup sheet offroad uses and just notated the missing details on the paper. I do it all on paper and not digital.
thanks for watching, camber is a very track specific topic which is why i didnt talk about it, but usually -2 LF and + 2 RF and rears are -2 and +3 you can run a bit more if you want to get some tire out of the track to help with grip as well. But again , every track is different so what works for me wont work for a flat track.
I run center c and d block because I use an adjustable arm , so no need to add more toe in when it can be added at the arm. Now you can add anti squat, which would be at the c block. 1 hole down staying in the center. And at the d block you can keep it center all around or up one. All comes down to how much anti squat you want.
Hey Chris, I just watched your video again. And I just noticed that you have the wrong front springs that you cut. The front Springs are progressive Springs. And I think the part numbers is Tra5857 or Tra5859. If they have any color coding on the Spring they're not legal. They are four wheel drive springs.
So I’m looking at doing this for my icharger to give it 24v, but I have 12v stuff I want to to run also. So do I run the 12v stuff of the floated or grounded power supply?
I run a 4010 and a 306 and a x5 all running 1 12v power supply. My original charger which was a hitec 2 channel that needed 24v to get me the amperage over 20amps per channel at a time. Where if it was on a 12v system. Then it would only do 10amps per channel at a time.
But to answer your question. If you hook up your charger that "needs" 24v (which ichargers do not require) you can follow my steps in this video. Then the charger takes your 24v and chargers your lipos off that.
For anyone else doing this with a cheap analyzer, note your battery voltage drop off. You need to keep the battery charged at 8.4 so you have a realistic expectation and get consistent test results. 5.1a at 7.9v will likely be 5.5-6a at 8.4v. These skyRC models also aren't very accurate on timing but it at least gives you a baseline to check amp draw.
Your question is a bit confusing. I eliminate all air inside the shock so the shock is 100% fluid to provide the most consistent action possiable. That is called 0 rebound. You can get creative and run small springs inside your shocks to cause rebound. Or you can add limiters inside or outside to cause other actions like limiting droop. Shock game is a whole different level of tunning and is a subject for a entire video series explaining shocks.
Id just buy a slash , there cheap. But if I had to guess, chassis , shock towers maybe, and probably whole transmission assembly. I think arms and turnbuckle etc are the same though.
If your serious about tuning motors and trying to get repetitive results after cleaning and rebuilding motors , then yes. Or by a motorlyser , but just to see the power of a motor for 2 motors , nope.
@@ChrisPatrickRCI was debating on one because they are 65 rn on AliExpress straight from sky rc. And I run on road summer and off road during winter fall. And just want to make sure I tune my stuff a bit but unsure if it’s really beneficial
@MrNascarfan1 the proper way to tune a motor is check temps on your motor , either add more timing or gearing based on the longest jump or stretch , once you find the magic number, you toss it on the analyzer and test the motor accordingly. So when you tear apart the motor you can rebuild it back to how it was when you tore it apart. Too many people think there's magical numbers of amps , example. A trinity may draw 7 amps, a maclain may dar 6.2 amps. A reedy may draw 5.5 amps. Thats why , when people ask me what should I set it too, I always say there's never a magical number perfect for everything.
I would go more for 6a draw through this method as the ESC would draw a certain current thus adding to the motor draw. So if the motor by itself pulls 5.5a and with the esc draw reads 7.2, safe to say the esc pulls a little less than 2a factoring in the fan attached pulling .27a at the beginning. The flashing LED is negligible as it’s intermittent and only uses barely 3v to light up for that instant. Also, internal resistance of the esc adds to the amps drawn through heat which must be dissipated through the heatsink. All this is energy drawn and lost.
your right, but the point i try to make that most dont seem to understand, there is no "magic" number to set a motor. your suppose to set a motor based on the largest jump on the track your racing, or the largest straight away section. and tune your motor based on that and once you find what the motor likes to keep the temps just low enough to not melt a motor, thats the magic spot.
there is and theres also a reason why you dont see that information online very easy, everyone does it different and shoot for different numbers, so what works for me and my program may differ for you and your program, plus the more you do this, the more your wearing in the motor so your going to wear the motor out faster. its a fine line of balance, and trial and error to find out what works for you. @@user-sp8er7dm4x
To stop water getting into the bushings and help them break in better at the same time find 2 plastic caps that will pop onto the ends of the motor anything that is a tight fit for eg pen lids the caps that come with new car fuel filters are ideal fill the caps around half way with oil having some air trapped in is important next the water needs to be above room temperature the caps will then be slightly pressurised pushing the oil in and keeping the water out
Best way to explain droop. Droop or aka Downstop is the amount of your suspension travel, higher number, more travel. More or less gives different handling characteristics, should also add that changing this will also change toe and camber
All depends on budget or expectations. Flysky gt3c is where I'd start, has a rechargeable battery pack so you won't have to fight with batteries. If you want to save $ go with the flysky gt3b , same radio just operates on aa's instead of a lipo pack. A futaba 3pv is a good option. A sanwa mx-6 another good option. Radiolink rc6gs is suppose to have one of the best range. So again , depends on what your budget is. And what quality your looking for. Thats where I'd suggest you start.
Also , are you near Cincinnati? And if so did you pick it up with a locked up motor? It might be this boat you watched as I sold it to a kid and he blew it up
@@ChrisPatrickRC I’m in AL, and a friends dad has had it for a few years, motor is fine. He just gave it to me and I wanna use it so bad. Also thanks for the fast reply! Very helpful
Thanks for watching and glad I have helped. A few things have changed since this was made but not enough to justify a new series on it as its about 90% the same.
@@ChrisPatrickRC no worries. Just about built. Once my mounting kit comes in will start building the body cause I got a two piece one from mr Kustoms street stock. Can’t wait to race it next week I’m hoping for anyways
@@stevecarey4740 thats the same body i just switched too and seem to love it so far. just take your time fitting the body esp the top part to the main body, its also a thinner body so your going to want to run a foam front bumper to protect it some. but so far ive enjoyed it, i also enjoyed my old shark camaro body that took 2 years of abuse. if your on a smaller track i would recomend the shark , but if your on a larger track your giving up some downforce which is where the mrkustoms body adds. I choose to go with the open window model to give me the added aero downforce and its noticable in my opinion on larger tracks.
@@ChrisPatrickRC hey sir I’m racing tomorrow. What would you recommend for springs to start with. I have the custom works big bore springs, 32.5 weight in the all the shocks and it’s loose dirt track. My tires are old dirt webs. So may struggle at first but think I may have a good starting point. I also have the white/green factory team springs
@@stevecarey4740 your tires are going to kill you. Run the softest set of compounds you can find, if its truly a loose dirt, id run pins before id run dirt webs. As for springs , if your on a street stock buggy, id start with yellows on front and reds on rear, or yellows on left and reds on right. just depends on the track conditions mainly. i RARLY come off this combination for spring setup. shock oils sound good close with 32.5 as well.
After you cleaned, reassembled, and before you installed the carb, I was surprised that you didn't clean off the air cleaner housing and the dirt on top of the starter and surrounding areas.
I have the same question as a few others on this. I have around 1 hour total on my Traxxas 550 motor. Will this still benefit it by doing the break in? I suppose I can look inside to see if the brushes are grooved in to answer it myself, but still asking. Good video by the way.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RH9468L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the smaller bottles and if you want a larger bottle then this link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793YY69D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
can this be done with a slightly used motor or would it be waste of time i was thinkn just for cleaning purpose n lube if nothing else thx love your video on this
