@@balkanboymoto Lakše da odgovorim na našem jeziku vidim da smo susjedi,da ima posla oko njega ali ima i volje gledao sam dugo dok nisam nabavio solidan primjerak iz 1985 godine 😁
What I failed to mention is that I inspected all the fuses, and they seem fine. So, not one of them was broken, but still, they didn't work... I simply change all the fuses
Nice one, sounds 👌. I will probably be referring to your videos soon as I will hopefully be taking ownership of a GT550 in the coming weeks. Cheers for the content.
Probably best to get the real parts for gaskets and O-rings. Especially between the petcock and the tank, and between the fuel level sender unit and the tank - the big gasket. A fuel leak under the parts that mounts on the inderside, will destroy Your paintwork. The two small ones on the tank cap, are black plastic washers on mine - not rubber O-rings..
Sry, I didn't see this comment.... yes, you need to disassemble the fork to do this.... if you have a problem with the oil leak, you can try to remove dirt between fork and seal with peace of plastic ... you have a cheap tool for that.....
Great Review! I have the exact same Helmet, but with double D lock. Pro for me is also the good Quality for the price on this one. Looks and fits great. Got ECE. Cons for me are also some wind noises at higher Speeds. And for my taste it has too much noise reduction on the ears. Many people like this, but I like to hear my engine loud and clear :D
I need to get the tank on, and it is ready for the first test rides... I am sure after that there will be a lot of small adjustments needed but we are getting there....
First of all - I love the sound of it now. I think it's going to be a great bike, as soon as it's running on all four. Let's recap a bit... I remember all Your cylinders had 140 to 145 PSI compression. A little low, but... Three cylinders are running just fine, and one isn't. And - You have a good spark on cylinder one. So - it is either air, or fuel that is the problem. If the vacuum membrane on the top doesn't lift the needle, that cylinder will be starving for fuel. Try a bigger main jet on that cylinder, and see if that fires it.If it does - and it really should because three cylinders are firing, so You know there is fuel getting through the system, but the normal jet can't deliver it because of bad vacuum. That leads me to think You have a vacuum leak somewhere? Or a vacuum tube is connected wrong? What to do? Check for air leaks or vacuum leaks, especially on number one. Also recheck the actual fuel level on all four float bowls. And I mean the fuel level, not the float height. To do that, You need a clear vinyl or plastic tube connected to the bottom of the bowls, and by that see how high the level is. I can't remember seeing that You have done this, so I'm mentioning it now. Maybe I've just forgot seeing it in Your video, so forgive me for being old and senile! 🤒 Also another thing... Many carburetors have their pilot circuits fed by the main jet. The main jet picks up fuel from the bowl, and some of that fuel goes to the side - through a small channel, and into the pilot circuit. If the membrane at the top doesn't lift the needle, the pilot circuit may also be starved for fuel. The MotoResto Florida guy here on RU-vid has some very nice videos on these kinds of carburetors. Check out this one, where he explains very good, how they are built. Search for this title on RU-vid; "Taking a look at the Mikuni BS34's from the XS1100 project." And subscribe to him, and leave him a comment! Great guy, that has thaught me a lot!
First, thank you so much for your comment! All things that you mentioned are valid. The Vacum leak was my thought also, but the test with starting fluid didn't detect anything. After making this video, I stripped down carbs (5th time 😅) and checked membrane on the first one (I put it on bright led light), but I see no pinholes on it. I dipped floats in water to see if they were leaking. It passed the test. Now, I will focus on just the first carb, as I think too that problem is in fuel mixture delivery. To start, I never take off carbs from rails as the screws on it are stuck (maybe someone put lockthight on them) so I can clean everything, including chocke mechanism. We will get to the bottom of it.... I subscribe to the channel that you mentioned, end I will find the video. Thank you so much for all your help!
Yesa little but now I will try some more...i will replace needle from carb one to carb 4 and see will problem move with it... thank you for suggesting....
Compression is good, and You have a spark. So far, so good. It has to be something with that left carburetor. Have You checked for air leaks around that carburetor? Sometimes the air inlets between carburetor and cylinder head can start leaking air in. That reducces the vacuum in the membrane bowl. So the membrane can't lift the needle - resulting in fuel starvation - and a cold exhaust header on that cylinder. That reading on the synchronization tool doesn't know where that number one carburetor is drawing its air from . through the carburetor intake, or through a leak nearby. So check that intake for possible air leaks. I'm sure You know how, but I'll say it again - use some starting gas and spray it around the carburetor while engine is running. I think the engine is running quite nice now. It's just a matter of feeding the cylinder number one enough fuel. Have You tried asking for help at the Facebook group - Kawasaki GT550/750 Owners? There are some people there, that are really experts on these bikes! And a lot better than me, to analyze this problem. I can also direct them over to here if You don't have a Facebook account. Enjoy Your holidays! Hoping to see a video of the first ride soon!😎🐤
Do You have a good compression reading on all four cylinders? I saw in the other video that You have about145 psi, but it should be 169-198 psi. But have You done anything to the valves or pistons after that measuring event? Make sure You open the throttle wide open when cranking the engine to measure the compression - it will go up a bit with wide open throttle. Your 145 psi is a bit low, but they are very even from cylinder to cylinder, so that's a good sign! So I would guess this is because of a small leakdown past the rings, pistons and cylinder walls. Did You take out and clean all the fuel inlet valves in the carbs? Sometimes, they also have a rubber O-ring under the fuel inlet valve seat - between the seat and the carburetor body. But, then they would overflow, so that is maybe not the problem... How is the fuel level in all carbs? I would take off the floats, main jets, fuel inlet valves and seats and the pilot jets. Make sure that the small adjustment tabs on the floats aren't bent too much. If someone has adjusted these tabs too much - or uneven, the inlet needle(s) can get stuck in both closed and wide open position. If You can't check the fuel level with the carbs on the bike, You need to do it on the work bench - with a temporary gas tank connected. A good tip, is to name the model of the bike and what carbs these are - Mikuni or Keihin? I'll be following from day to day from here... Check out MotoRestoFlorida here on RU-vid - he has some very good videos on CV carbs on the Kawasaki fours.
Thank you for your input mate.... I will post a new video soon... compression is 150psi and service limit is from 128 till 169 so not for scrap considering this is 50000 miles bike(80000 km). Need to check carb 1 again....
@@balkanboymoto While You're in there - check that the ventilation for the fuel bowl works OK. Blow some air down the channel in the rear of the float bowl to check if it's open. Are there ventilation tubes on front of the carbs?
Hope such content keeps on coming. I just purchased a used GT550 aswell. If you dont mind could you please post a detailed video on how to service front and rear breaks for newbies like myself which includes detailed breakdown of the entire tear down process
I plan to put in there an air compressor, welding machine, ultrasonic cleaner,.... so I will need to manage space very carefully... Thank you for your feedback....
It can be quite a messy job, but You saved Yourself from the worst of it. BTW; I was wondering how You were going to put pressure into them - until I saw the end. You see, my 750 has the air inlet on the middle of the pipe between the shocks. Oh - in Your case, any oil in the tube will be pushed to the opposite side of where You are pumping in air. I guess it doesn't matter, wth such a small tube? I think I might just measure how many milligrammes 205 millilitres of oil is, and then weigh my completely dry, empty shocks one at the time. And then add the amount of oil I need in either side. I think I've seen at least four different ways to do this job now. Your way, and my way. And then, some people build a stand to push the shock all the way in, connecting a clear hose to an oil bottle and the release the shock, pulling oil into the chamber, until it is full. Clamping the shock together agin will push out the needed quantitty. Last method is unscrewing the fitting, and then emptying the chamber completely. Then connecting a tube and funnel, and then add the correct amount in each shock. I have overhauled my shocks, with new internal parts and new paint. Now, the worst part, is to find someone to make the warning decals for the outside. Thanks for the video and good luck! 😎👍
Great question... as I put the shocks back on I was careful not to bring any oil into the tube... I guess the tube is there for air maybe not for oil.... now when I have an air chamber on top of both shocks I am certain that pushing air in it will not cause oil to go from one chamber to another... I have an air valve on the left shock, not the right one... Now when I think about it that hose may just regulate air between shocks??
@@balkanboymoto HHO protects the engine by lowering the temperature of the combustion. The fuel is burned more cleanly and completely resulting in cleaner engine oil and less carbon build up in the combustion chamber; both contributing to an extended engine life.
@@balkanboymoto hho kits for bikes are easily available. What model do you suggest that where to add the additional Pipe (containing gasses) in air in take
@@balkanboymoto its definitely unique and your own style, that's what riding is about, its a form of self expression and actually its just the fur seat that makes it unrideable for me, i wonder if it's slippery
@@songwriterdc1899 I know that fur is over the top but when I put it on it fit perfectly and no trimming needs to be done so I just go for it. I currently work on Kawasaki GT550 and it will be done without modifications on it.... FZX was Mad Max tribute 😁
