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This tensioner is supposed to hang directly on the wheel axle as well as as on the derailleur hanger. That's why it has two holes. I think you didn't mount it correctly
Watching this video again lol!!! I saw another vid on here where a guy added a bbshd to an existing dual hub bike. Separate throttle, display and battery. Stock my krusader has 36 t chainring and 22t rear cog. Imagine the climbing ability with three motors!!
@@FirstTimersCyclingI found out my krusader has a 22 rear cog and chainring is a 36 narrow wide. For climbing should I keep this setup or install larger rear cog?
@@aeestep77 I think that setup should be fine. That way you don't sacrifice too much on top speed. On my bafang, it had a 46T chainring and the 22 rear and that made it up the hills just fine. Made the motor work a little but it handled it. Plus the 22 rear cog I believe is the biggest you can go without some sort of an adapter to mount front chainrings on the rear like the one I have now from Pinion. I now have a 28T chainring for the rear
@@FirstTimersCycling that’s mainly what I’d use the mid drive for is to get little boost up steep hills. Use the hubs for normal riding. It’s a hunting bike anyway.
Are you referring to the brake cable? @5:28 you can see Alvin showing and explaining how to remove the cable from it's mounting point. If you are referring to the hoods, we just cut them off. Hope that helps!
True. I've since switched to a 34T rear cog and use it primarily for climbs. Really wished that I could change the front cog to a much smaller chainring but due to the chain line and frame, I'm unable to, so changing the rear cog is all I can do. It works for me as I normally don't need too much assist. But I hear you on it not being wise to do, I can agree if the rear cog was anything lower than 34 for hill climbs. I rarely ever need to go to PA3 or higher on any hills with the BBSHD
I’ve looked and found that on my krusader. Couple wires come out the bottom bracket. So I’m wondering if I mount a bbshd if the motor would pinch those wires. If the motor rests against the frame down there
Great video! Over a year old and I just used it to change the brake pads on my electric bike. My neighbor paid $120 to get his brake pads changed at the local bicycle shop. Can you believe that for 10 minutes worth of work? Thanks for the info and the help have a great day.
Thank you for commenting and glad this video helped you save $120! Now you can use that money towards more bike parts! 😂 Just kidding, glad it helped, have a great day as well!
I just saw an ad for this scrolling through Facebook. As a professional mechanic, this gadget seems needlessly complex. I do know there are a few instances where removing a wheel is difficult, but those instances are rare. Me, I don’t even touch the derailleur. I just open the quick release and push the wheel out. It can even be done without the bike in the stand; just open the quick release, hold the bike by the saddle so the rear wheel is off the ground, and push the wheel out. Out of curiosity, do you still use it?
Hello and thanks for commenting! Totally understand your point but do take note that a quick release is a lot easier than a thru axle release. Or at least for me. A QR you can still mount the rim on the bike even if the wheel isn't straight. With the thur-axle there is no such wiggle room so the ChainLift product did help me. I no longer have this bike as I mainly mountain bike on a SS setup right now so to answer your question, I don't use it but do still have it.
I believe I ended up taking 4 links out and yes I used the half link (quick disconnect) Wasn't able to get the tensioner in the up position so it needed enough slack to attach then moved the tensioner in the down position. When you try for yourself, you'll see what I'm talking about. Taking an extra link will make it too hard to connect, adding links back brings too much slack which needs to be addressed with the tensioner.
🤣 I have since learned the proper way to use a chain whip. But hey, this is a channel where we do things for the first time lol but thanks for commenting!
I just had my first ride today with the hd, and the sw102. Still charging battery so I can use the I think its the bbs tool thing with the pc. Haven't got a working otg right now but it's on the list. As far as I can see the eggrider and the cyc, these are just sw102 displays with custom firmware? is that correct? Can you educate me a little on firmware stuff, I haven't got my head around that yet, if the stock is fine, or if theres custom stuff available without spending additional money..
Hi there and thank you for commenting! To our understanding, the firmware is on the HD motor itself, not the controller. The stock is fine for most, including myself, but Alvin wanted to be able to go faster and up the output. I believe if you reach out to Golden Motors, they should be able to help you with firmware that will work for your setup. We are by no means experts on the subject either, so I'd rather not give you misinformation. What we did was at our own risk and on the systems we purchased just for learning as we enjoy tinkering. Not sure how any other controllers would perform with the firmware update.
Dont do what was done here of holding in one piston while pushinf out the other. The pistons are held in purely by tight tollerance mechanical fit alone. You can easily pop one out and loose hydraulic brake pressure.
I partially agree with what you are saying but there are times when you have a stuck piston and you need to hold the one that is moving down to force the fluid to the side that is sticking to free it. Dirt and crud can get caked on the piston, if not cleaned off regularly, it'll seize a piston. And yes, a piston can pop out and you lose hydraulic pressure, but you would have to be pumping it more than a few times to get the piston out far enough.
Tired of dealing with cleaning the cassette in winter so converted my e-ride using a Surley singleator, but with a 14t in the back, it doesn’t run as smooth. I just ordered a DMR hoping I can get more tension from it - we’ll see.
If I'm not mistaken, the Surley is a spring tensioned design. The DMR is a set and lock design. If you have full suspension, the DMR isn't advisable. I like my DMR but I've since moved to a 28T rear cog using an adapter. Unlike you, my derailleur got ripped from the power of the Bafang so that's why I went SS lol.
It seems massively excessive, big and clunky. My rear mech has a simple button that can lock the mech in a forward position, gaining access to both jockey wheels and makes it very simple to remove the rear wheel.
rider weight affects range most likely...how can some 1000w bafang hub drives claim 38+mph on some bike on amazon? is that hype? i thought mid drives were fastest ? 1000w bafang geared hub has 120nm torque and BBSHD has 160nm torque are those realistic? im in the process of deciding which to buy...and was pretty much convinced of mid drives being best...but then you go through broken chains and cassettes plus if your a trip and break a chain well you are now walking the rest of the way...so anyone with info on both would be appreciated to help make the right choice!! thanks!!!
I'm sure rider weight affects range as well. Alvin's 52V 1000W Bafang was able to reach 40+mph on his heaviest gear on flat ground. It can probably go faster if you tune the motor as when he hit that speed it was with stock settings. I believe mid-drive systems are the fastest. I have broken chains, a rear derailleur and that has led me to go SS bafang setup. I have mine geared for climbs as l love the downhill portion of trails. You do miss out on top speed though. Depends on your preference and build but this has worked for me. The Bafang 1000W is a beast.
Nice riding guys. Im trying to work my way up there. Just started riding two months ago, went last weekend to cheseboro, sheep corral area for first time. Some parts were pretty narly but i survived. This area looks a little harder, maybe a couple more months I'll be ready. Good luck guys!!
Hey thanks for commenting. The episode was just to challenge myself in seeing if it was possible. We reference an anime where the main character is riding on this style bike and uses leg strength/power to climb instead of switching gears. Just wanted to see if I could do it is all. :-)
Yes it can be ridden with the motor turned off. You won't feel resistance per say but you do feel the weight of the bike. Raphael, the owner of this ebike likes to ride with the motor off until he needs it for climbing hills.
tks for the video. So now I am wondering if my Shimano hydralic caiiper has a stuck piston. Does it have two that move or one on this model ( you may know). BR-M365. I know on some calipers that one side moves only.
You're welcome! So, to my understanding, both pistons should move freely to close on the brake rotor evenly. If only one moves, you'll notice the rotor bends to one side and that's not good. If you hold in the piston that is freely moving, the fluid should push the stuck piston out. If it doesn't, you may have a seized piston.
Thanks for the update and response. I did remove the caliper and appears to have one seized up (in the caliper). I didnot remove the front caliper to compare pistons but with new brakes installed on the rear - it is still not feeling like it should. I will have to ride the bike and apply the brakes under forces to see if I see the rotor bends. It didnot bend on the stand when I looked at it. Meanwhile its working but not getting that hard lockup braking power (I have a replacement caliper in the mail but wont be here till late next week). I will let you know what I find. I do believe on my other bike with a mechanical caliper it only has one piston that moves and the other side of that caliper appears to be adjustable to move in or out. Gonna have to dig into that project also. Again thanks for the video info. Never tackled a caliper this far but I will take it all apart now when I put the new one in.@@FirstTimersCycling
@@arthurleal2674 If there is no bite in the feel, there might be air in the hydraulic line. It'll feel spongy, like you're pressing on the lever hard but there is no hard stop feel (springy). Good luck with your find and on this project! If you've never bled a brake line before whether it be on a motorcycle or a car, I'd take this task to a local bike shop you trust so you don't end up wasting brake fluid.
I have bled from the caliper (just like you would bleed car brakes) but I think a stuck piston only give me 50% braking power. I will see when I put the new caliper in and so far I have not seen any leaks outside the line. Actually I rode the bike today and forgot to look and check if the rotor would bend on braking. Did a quick 5 miles ride. I will be at it tomorow again. I will keep you posted. (just glad I decided to buy the large sized fluid instead of one little bottle). Maybe that handle/reservior could also be letting air into the system. This bike is like a 2016 model so seals could be wearing out too. @@FirstTimersCycling
@@arthurleal2674Yup, sounds like you are mechanically savvy to get to the bottom of this! You wouldn't have to be riding to see the rotor bending. You can be at a stand still, pull the lever and see if the rotor bends to one side. The symptoms you are describing definitely sounds like air in the system or of a seized piston. You're right, it is a possibility that air might be in the system but like I said before, you should feel sponginess at the lever.
I wouldn't do a single speed personally. Motors like to run fast and don't appreciate being bogged down with high gearing from a standstill. Instead if I was looking for a clean look id go with a 3speed igh and would retain the shift sensor.
I get you. I figured as much just from trying this gear ratio. I've since changed the rear cog to a 28T and it spins a lot faster. Of course a nice 3spd IGH would be awesome.
I get that but it should be fine as long as you are also putting in power yourself. That way it really doesn't get bogged down much at all. If you use it like a scooter yes it would wear it out quick
Lots of available trails here in Topanga State Park but yeah, we were flying lol. Nobody crashed. Santa Clarita has some nice trails as well. Ride safe!
Would be nice to have a kind of police panic button (pressing + or - for a while) allowing to limit the overall speed to 15 mph.. In my country, police stop many e-bikes and put them on a rolling road to check..
Oh wow, it hasn't gotten to that here yet. But in the mountain trails, we do have cops monitoring ebikes as motorized dirt bikes. That we have to watch out for.
Hi, I'm planning on buying this bike, but pls may you tell me if this bike can move without pedalling, and if yes pls could you tell me the max speed it can go without pedal just full electric power?
Hi there, the bike is only pedal assisted and will not roll without pedaling unless you're rolling down a hill. No throttle capabilities for this bike.
I live close by to this park so I’m there regularly but I’ve Never seen that pond before!! There’s a spot near one of the trailheads where you’ll find a patch of watermelons growling
Guys, can you "save as" the SPEEED configuration file? because for me did not work lately and I know it worked before. I tried it on a different phone, also does not work anymore.
Hey, I'll have to ask Alvin to try it as his bike was the one we tuned. I'll get back to you when I hear back. In the meantime, make sure the app is up to date and see the reviews for the app to see if others are experiencing the same thing.
I wouldn't advise it. The battery doesn't last as long unless you are mainly riding on flat ground. Any hills you would ride throughout your routes would kill the battery.
My bike is awesome I bought the Shimano electric bike and the wire at the bottom of the wire got cut too close to the black box and it's the blue wire and now how do I fix that?
If I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like you have a cut in the wire? If so, you'd have to extend it with the same gauge wire. I would use solder to connect the wires instead of crimp ties just so the connection is secure. That or, take the bike to a shop that works on ebikes.
This is the Spider gear adapter I was talking about that I'm using. It allows me to use front chainrings for the rear with BCD of 104. As long as you have a splined rear, this adapter should work.
On my dual hub awd bike I prolly do need a chain tensioner like that. Chain popped off couple times on trail and I got it back on. Whenever I do get my bbshd. I’m only gonna use it for the hills
Thank you for this very informative video. I have a Bafang 250w m400 motor. When I pedal I have a feeling that the engine only helps up to a certain point. Than I have to switch into a higher gear ( cassette gear ) and then it helps again. Do you know if there is a setting where I can prolong this help limit? I don't have a throttle, only pedal assist.
Hello and thank you for your question! What you feel is how we feel with the BBSHD 1000w Bafang setup. From PA1-PA9 after a certain mph/kph pedal assist will stop until you switch to the next gear. What we think is the motor may be load sensing or rpm sensing so it can detect when to shut off assist to conserve power. Unfortunately, I don't think this is a setting we can change. Might have to direct this question to Bafang tuners out there. I only know of one called Golden Motor where we use their Bafang tunes to up the power delivery on the motor. I hope this helps!
@@FirstTimersCycling Thank you for your swift and detailed answer. I really appreciate you help and suggestion. I will have a look if Golden Motor could have an answer.
A 36t front chainring and a 22t rear should suffice. But if you get the spider gear adapter like I have in another video, you can go even higher in the back. 36 front 28 rear should be all that you would need with a Bafang motor. You'll be climbing very easily at PA1 or PA2 assist without overheating the motor. Your speed on flats would take a huge hit but you'll be climbing like a bat out of hell lol
@@FirstTimersCycling that’s what I was needing to know for certain thank you. There’s a popular ebike company that builds single speeds for hunting setups that use exactly what you described in this comment. I could care less for speed. I don’t mind to pedal. But places I go I need a climber.
@@FirstTimersCyclingthe company is called stealth hunting ebikes. They have a RU-vid channel as well. Showing some of the steep climbs their bikes will do without pedaling. One video shows a bike climbing a sky lift hill no pedaling. I think that particular bike is a 7 speed on their website
This is something I’m considering doing for my Rambo krusader since it’s a single speed with 36t chainring. It’s a dual hub and sucks at climbing hills without a fast running go
And some pedals lol. For a very inexpensive ebike with cheap parts, there really isn't that much you would want to throw on it. Better to get a better packaged ebike at that point. But bars and pedals made a difference. To each their own I guess.
I'm no longer set up with the Bafang, but during the time this episode was shot, I was 46t front chainring and 34t rear single speed. To be honest, the Bafang is so powerful that I could have gone with a smaller rear cog to gain a higher top speed. I just stayed with the 34 rear because I wanted better climbing while staying on a lower power assist. In my mind, I felt it would conserve battery life and the health of the motor.
When you spread the pads, do it to the old pads before you remove them. No need to deface your new pads. Go ahead, use a large flat screwdriver, twist and pry, no harm done. Only open them far enough for the new pads to fit over the disc, no need to stress the caliper seals. Same for autos, I been playing this game many years, basics remain the same.
Glad you enjoyed and found it helpful! I'm afraid I would make Chainlift look bad with how much I was struggling lol. Just wanted to show a true first timer video of using the device. Also on their videos, they had clamp brakes instead of disc which makes it 10x easier. Disc brakes which are on most newer road bikes were a little harder to get the wheel on. With more use, you'd get the hang of it though!