Upgrading the Walmart Hyper E-Ride MTB 

Wow Ron! You really are hooking up that Hyper E-Ride MTB! You just upgraded to disc in the front when changing the fork right? I bet changing to a 27.5 makes it easier to find a rim too. Thanks for the info! I'm going to look at the prices for this upgrade and see if Raphael is game. On our last ride, I let him ride my Bafang setup and he's almost sold on it lol. But if the cost to continue upgrading the Hyper is low enough, then that might be a better route. Thanks again for sharing your new setup!

@@FirstTimersCycling I went with aliexpress to buy everything, way cheaper but longer shipping

@@rlake13 Good to know! Was contemplating asking Raphael to see if he was game on doing something like this. This would be very appealing for any budget minded rider to see that it can be done without breaking the bank! 👍👍

Thanks for sharing your experience! Not sure if the bike is throttle capable. I could be wrong. Let us know if you do get one!

Great info thanks for sharing! Gearing selections was a big downside but for regular commuting, this bike is great. Crazy what the price difference is in your area! Wow.

As stock sadly. No. But if you have alittle $ to spend for upgrading it alittle. Yes. For the throttle ability. Stock you cannot sadly. The ESC is built into the frame and has only the required cables for the Motor/Battery leads/little touch board on the handlebars/Brake cutoffs and the PAS sensor. That's it. It's a good tiny ESC hidden away in the frame. If you do get a NEW 250watt 36volt ESC that does have a throttle cable. Sadly you won't be putting it up into the frame as the stock was. Since it'll be much thicker. So you'll likely need to cut the banana leads off the stock battery posts and by some XT60 to solder onto the end tips for likely the new ESC that you'll get. Then you'll need to fish those leads down to the underside of the frame by the cranks and loop them up around your middle frame post up to the seat likely. Then get a small seat bag to put the new ESC inside. You'll also likely need to either by a 9-1 motor extension cable. Or if the stock ESC motor wire unplugs from it and can reach the new ESC to the seatpost ESC bag. Then you'll need to buy a Throttle that has a long enough cable to reach to the bag placement where the NEW ESC is so you can connect it there. Once done with that you'll have throttle power. But you might loose 7miles of runtime due to the new ESC power demand. And Speed might also get slowed down after half charge. I notice mine looses 5mph after half charge. But luckily it runs well till dead. But once you get past Red it'll slowly drop max speed. But this is basically when it's dieing to 0. Then likely shut off. Also i don't think you'll be able to use the stock touch board on the handlebars. I think it's a 5pin version. Most other ones might only use a 3pin version. Though you might be able to find one that might use it. Or the 29er might use a 3pin board plug. I know the 26 used a 5pin connector i think. But the new ESC i have i don't need the board. It turns on once i plug in. As for a second battery. I mean you could buy just a extra battery for 200$ from Hyper. Or buy a offbrand with more mah and get yourself a cargo rack. Then a bike bag and put it into that. Then wire up a Y-connector to the ESC. (I'd use a On-Off switch on both ends of the Y-connector to shut off the batteries from eachother. Just to be safe to not cause backload into the other cell.) I got this rack www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Z8PVNV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Holds up REALLY well. (You could use it as a another seat if you wanted to. Though i wouldn't go fully trusting on that. But it can surely hold over 40pounds. I had a huge 21pound 36volt 30ah cell sitting there with tools and other stuff in my bag. So it surely can hold that hunk of stuff up there.)

The bike is pretty decent for the price. Unfortunately, there are no upgrades to the battery or motor.

Sadly.... Even with a better battery. That's just gonna give you more drive range. If you either use a new replacement to add extra 20miles of range. Or fork for buying a offbrand that's related to 36volts. Nothing will make it go 'Faster' by buying a new battery. You'd have to swipe the Electric speed controller AND wheel motor for something more powerful (say a 350/500/750/1000watt. But if you go beyond 350. You'll likely wanna swipe to a external outside battery for more battery life and runtime since higher wattage you go the less range you'll get from the stock 7.8ah cell built into the bike.) Or if you're tech savy. You could spend a few bucks to buy a bunch of 18650 cells of that 3400/3500mah versions to get 10.4/10.5mah into the internal cell battery by swiping out the old 18650cells for the newer higher mah versions. That'll give you much more runtime/drive range then the cruddy 20miles of range the stock battery runs. For me i might do that in the future. But right now i got a 21pound beast of a 36volt 30ah lifepo4 cell in my trailer my bike hauls with and runs off my front 500watt ebikeing kit system. Get's me around like 80miles of range. The another companies ebike wheel kit upgrade might get slightly better range. The ebikeing upgrade wheel i got has a weird kink to it that uses quite lot of power and doesn't seem to lower it after full speed. So it likes to eat lots of energy. But still 80miles is nice for my insane 21pound 36volt-30ah battery beast. (And that's just the front wheel. My rear with a replacement ESC still gets me 13miles of range on the stock 250watt hub rear wheel.) But no you can't make the stock rear wheel go faster even with a ESC replacement. It's only 250watts of power at 36volts. And the hub has a internal speed limiter built into it. So it won't speed faster then 20mph speed. Unless you're insane and put 48volts of a 350watt ESC on it and over drive. But that will likely destroy the hub and burn it out. (Plus you'd need a new higher voltage battery for that anyways.)

Yes we plan to show LA but haven't got to it yet. To be honest though, I much prefer mtb over road biking. Don't like being near cars. I like trails and being in the wilderness VS worrying about getting hit by distracted drivers. Not hyped about ebikes but hyped for being able to explore more trails by using ebikes.

Thanks for commenting! It's hard to find a break down of specs for the Hyper E-ride mtb but I'll try and find the stem length and angle for you.

No luck in finding the specs. I also saw your comment on the FB Hyper Ebike Owners Group asking the same thing. If I were to take a guess, I would estimate the stem to be 80mm with a 3deg rise.

Thank you@@FirstTimersCycling I found that it is 80mm and 7 degrees. It is the same stem as on one of the Bolten ebikes.

Hello and thank you for commenting! This is a pedal assist bike so if you're not pedaling, there won't be any assist from the motor. It'll still roll freely if you have momentum like any regular bike.

Lol thanks for your support and for commenting! Seriously though, what a difference pedals and handlebars make. The fork really sucks though.

@@FirstTimersCycling Yeah, my bike the forks suck too. I want rock shock, I just have trouble spending as much on a fork as Ii did for the whole ebike kit. Eventually I will though.

@@CoolAirVw I can understand not wanting to spend much on an already budget friendly bike. It really comes down to how you ride though. If you enjoy downhill riding, changing out the fork would make a big difference. RockShox makes one for less than $200. The RockShox 30 Silver TK 26" with 100mm travel. It looks decent and retains the V-brake system or disc if you choose to keep the stock setup or upgrade in the future.

More control over the front end of the bike. More noticeable on downhills.

As FTC mentioned. See if you watch other youtubers doing mountain biking. They normally will have a 0mm stem on their handlebars. This brings the handlebars closer to the user. And in the end this gives faster twitch reaction. But to counter having to much twitch reaction. They make up by giving themselves a much longer/wider handlebars to reduce the twitch reaction. A smaller handlebar gives better twitch reaction, But sometimes TO much can be to insane. So widing the handlebars helps that. Here's a easy way of understanding handling for bicycles. Smaller handlebars: Better sudden change in turning with less effort. Smaller Stem: Better sudden change in turning with less effort. So at lower speeds. A smaller stem and handlebar helps to turn suddenly. But at HIGHER speeds. You want LESS twitch reaction. So to counter this. Having a larger front stem. Say 80mm's ahead. With over 600/620mm or more handlebars. Helps reduce the amount of wobble/twitch scare at higher speeds. Because that sudden twitch turn will do LOTs of turn so suddenly. So mountain bikers use a small stem to get closer to the steering. But then counter that twitch with a larger-wider handlebars to spread out their turn ratio so suddenly. It's why 600mm handlebars were pretty standard back then with atleast some front headroom on the stem. It helped even out good speeds with good reaction time. Now adays people want the stem as close to the steerer. But they don't want that sudden reaction to turning with the smaller closer handlebars. So they make them wider to help have less sudden action in their turn and also help bring their arms out more infront of them rather then just ahead as the smaller handlebars are. I'd say a good mix of length for handlebars is 27.5inches. This would be roughly 720mm's of length from edge to edge. Then go with maybe a 60mm or 40mm stem extension. This can make you feel like you're riding a dirtbike. That'll give you enough wide grip with a good amount of twitch reaction of turning. While also feeling good at higher speeds without it feeling like the handlebars will suddenly turn at every little mm you twist them.

Yup he's still rolling on the original tires. They don't do well on rocky or muddy terrain but roll pretty nice on hard compact dirt, gravel, and fire roads.

Not sure, the rim doesn't seem wide enough to fit that. Maybe a 2.3 or 2.4 but I think that would be pushing it. It might also hit the brake calipers unless you switch to disc brakes

Sorry no. I am the one that has been doing indepth and heavy upgrades. (And still seem to be the only one being the massive insane moron who's putting DUAL motors and batteries, Plus a trailer and cargobags on this Hyper E-ride bike. Still have yet to put my planned Mid-drive kit on it. But can't wait till i do. It'll rip roads really nicely.) And there is 0 way a wheel bigger then a 2.2 (maybe.) will work. The rear frame for the bike is WAY to narrow. 27.5 might also be cutting it fairly tight. So if you did. you might want to stay with the old 1.9 to 2.1 standard size. If you're doing this to the front. Then sure you can if you upgrade your fork to that system. I mean there are even some odd spec bikes with a 29 in front and 27.5 in the rear. sometimes. So whatever you do the front just needs a new fork system. As for the rear. It has a mount for the brake disc system and screws preinstalled inside the motor WITH a spacer (Do keep the spacer as you might need it to space the rotor closer to the frame to let the brake caliper be a lined correctly. But if not you can remove it (keep the spacer for future use though if needed.). Just DO NOT use your new disc rotor brake setup screws. They won't fit. The stocks are ment to be short for a reason. The new ones will be to long and hit inside the motor's hub and cause problems. So use the stock ones if you remove the spacer. If not removing the spacer you probably can get away with using the new screws from your kit since it'll give enough space to screw into the hub, but not to much into it. The front sadly you can't switch to discs unless you swipe the Fork AND wheel to a more modern system. Lucky for my swipe. My setup allows for Both from my Ebikeing kit 500watt wheel and TSL Omega 26in spec shocks. So my setup has V-brakes still with a Disc rotor/brake system used as a kinda back up braking system/parking brake dealo.

@@KillerRaptorr Lol dual motors. You are insane! Not a moron, just insane! You're going to go weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 🤣. Have fun with your build, I'm sure you are and thank you for chiming in with such great info! 👍

@@FirstTimersCycling Hah yeah. Hope it helps you and others.

And some pedals lol. For a very inexpensive ebike with cheap parts, there really isn't that much you would want to throw on it. Better to get a better packaged ebike at that point. But bars and pedals made a difference. To each their own I guess.