I am so grateful for this high quality presentation. Great information and I didn’t miss watching someone drilling a bunch of holes and making a bunch of repeated cuts. Just good advice, carefully prepared and delivered. Great job! If you have more like this, I will have lost another day to RU-vid.
Das hätte ich als Schüler auch gerne gebaut: toll... Und das fehlt bei uns im Garten :-). Englisch vs. Deutsch: mir egal, weil das Englisch eine prima Aussprache hat!
I've had this couple years now it's decent the on off button will snap if you're not careful I had to put some screws through the top to fix and the filter needs to be kept clean or it will stop sucking. I was actually watching this video to see how to wash the filter properly so I don't need to buy another that said this is 1st time filter has give up on me. Good bit of kit careful with the button.
@@holzhandwerk_ak I had some understairs storage drawers fitted and one of them, in particular is very heavy. It is very difficult to pull out and with all the MDF it must be around 30kg in itself. It's just for shoe storage so nothing heavy. It's a kind of triangular shape in the smallest part of the understairs and about 90cm wide. They have put in 2 pairs of runners - all about 35mm in height, and I don't think they are going to last. I have told the installer to go and find more robust runners which I am hoping will make the drawer lighter to pull and get more longevity. Am I right in doing so? What should I insist on?
I found it easier when I made mine to use only the one deep rebate on the saw table, as the other not so deep, on the sliding table, the table needs needs periodic adjustments for the sideways movement. Additionally I got the ‘critical, fence 100 percent with a roofing square. I did a rebate in the sled underneath to hold the runner in place. With a shallower depth to allow it not to plough up sawdust. When I fixed the final critical fence with the roofing square, I used glue to hold the fence in position with my jointing plane on top, keeping the square in place the glue up was all done on the saw table to avoid movement. Overall a good video, especially the block on the back to contain the spinning saw blade.
Goodness, when you said that gluing up was stressful, I thought you were going to have some alcohol, not coffee. 😆 Coffee is the better idea, but it would make me even more anxious. My recent project, a side table with mortise and tenon leg attachment, flustered me at glue-up time. Not so much the assembly and gluing itself. I had dry-fit everything several times. No, it was applying all the clamps once the glue was on. I just hadn't thought it through beforehand. I had the clamps handy but didn't have a plan for how to use them. Had I done some quiet thinking first as you advised, I probably would have dry-fit the table parts and figured out where to apply every clamp. Then it wouldn't have been a panic of picking up clamps, adjusting for where they needed to go, clamping, then unclamping to shift it to the right location, repeat. In the end it all came out OK.
Hey Andreas, great video! I came here from your old bosch table saw review, I want to mention that I think that your audio was better before. Maybe it’s just a perception though, but anyway thanks for sharing your knowledge for all these years 😊
Thanks for your feedback. I listened to the old video - I think the audio was different. Couldn’t say that one was better than the other, in my opinion, though.
Another video, outstanding!! Well done,very easily followed. If you're not a teacher, you should be one. I will try my hand at making a charging station. From a subscriber in the USA, State of Iowa .
If some boards are bowed and some aren't, you likely have a cut issue. Quick tip and why:. dry fitting first is a huge help for cut rated issues. And when I do glue up, when practical, i fit things together and wait about 10 to 15 minutes to tighten clamps, this allows the glue on both pieces to bond and it will form a "skin" so when it is clamped, the squeeze out has some skin on it and is easier to clean off later. I find that I don't clamp down so hard these days. That's because of 3 reasons, the glue is probably stronger than wood, I don't think I should be forcing it out to an extreme, glue squeeze out is minimized and if I have gaps, I have to figure it out sooner rather than later. So, I dry fit every time, as a habit. If I have a gap, i'll see it then and can address why. I make small things and interior glue squeeze out is a huge problem and must be avoided. I use the tape if I can, but if you are batching stuff out multiples of something, you will master the squeeze out at some point in the process.
Thank you Andreas, for making this video. As a beginner, I've experienced the same issues you mentioned, especially the stress of glue-ups. Then I realized that the stress I feel is actually self-inflicted upon myself 😁.
Nice one! Ich habe auch das Problem mit den Bosch Schraubern und die schiefe Lösung gewählt. Zu meiner Verteidigung kann ich aber vorbringen, das der Halter bei mir in meinem werkstattschrank versteckt ist😂 Immer wieder toll mit wie viel Liebe Du die Projekte umsetzt. Ich schraube so ein Projekt normalerweise nur zusammen. Ggf nutze ich Pocket Holes. Das Du die Kanten sogar mit Tape vor Leim schützt. Wow Schönen Sonntag
Over here you can get different qualities. This is called Multiplex with many thin layers. And you can choose the quality level of that, too: number of defects in the top layers.
No. It’s difficult to see the tip of the router bit with this router. So I’d say you should use one that’s built different and that makes it easier to see the spot where it’s cutting.
Just bought a good used basic version of this router (has no accessories). Your video was perfect for me and now I know not to use it in a new router table I'm installing, as first planned and will use a large router I have here. Thanks very much Andreas, much appreciated.
Das ist komplett dicht. Allerdings würde ich eine etwas wetterfestere Platte anstatt OSB nehmen. Meine muss ich demnächst mal tauschen, weil sie langsam verwittert - trotz dicker Farbschicht.
Very Good. I was searching for how "partial" a partial blockout installation of undermount slides could be. As far as the difference between Pro and DIYer slides. I would add the DIYer slides are the same no doubt as you said. However, The pro's don't get screws, brackets, clips or even instructions. They just get the side. Where the DIYer gets sort of a kit.
but if you lift it to the ceiling the pipework isnt a trip hazard... and you are still lifting it from the floor to the machine so its the same either way. also the ceiling is closer to the machine than the floor is so its probably a net negative in your situation. the best solution would be to run the pipes at a 30 degree angle to the nearest wall from the machine or a 45 degree angle to the ceiling then across to the extractor
I've recently experienced the same problem, I ran the complete drawer thru the table saw and took a small slice (width of blade) off the drawer, set blade high enough for drawer side, worked great.
